(Topic ID: 117248)

CFTBL J116 (for ColorDMD)

By Cheese_WizardPQ

9 years ago


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#1 9 years ago

hi!
Just bought a colorDMD for CFTBL.
I plugged it in J116 (as suppose to) and it didn't powered it...
I plugged it in J117..samething...

I plugged it in my White Water and it worked. So the DMD is not the problem...

What are suppose to power J116 / J117 in CFTB (or every WPC)
I'd like to see if they deliver power to what they are suppose to and know if they work.

thanks!

#2 9 years ago

PS: Is 116 and 117 have something to do with the coil that send back the ball right beside the plunger lane?
Since I played in the back glass, this coil never stops trying to eject an imaginary ball..

#3 9 years ago

According to the Creech manual:

J116 is provides +12VDC to the coin door at J2 on the coin door interface board.
J117 is provides +12VDC and +5VDC to the dot matrix controller at J606

It's been over a year since I installed a ColorDMD but you are welcome to check it out here because I opted to not tap into the power driver board on my STTNG.

http://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/sttng-colordmd.800/

#4 9 years ago

Replace F116 at the upper left corner of the power driver board. It's the fuse that powers unregulated 12V which is the same circuit your trough optos are using. With the fuse blown, the trough thinks it's loaded with balls and keeps ejecting them onto the playfield.

#5 9 years ago

Mwong: I read your post and am I wrong if I understand that you tap into J116?

Dmod: Wow. so good to know!! I have the same problem with Junk yard. Is it F116 too?

So by changing F116 in CFTBL the DMD should get some power?

#6 9 years ago

Yes, F116 provides 12V to the ColorDMD as well as the playfield optos.

#7 9 years ago

Dmod thanks again!!

Is there a difference of Fuse names and location between a Williams WPC and a Williams WPC-95?

#8 9 years ago

It's F109 on WPC95 and on the right side of the driver board.

Randy

1 week later
#9 9 years ago

Hey!
I just changed The fuses with No success
I'll still trying to figure out why those coils/switches act like crazies!
Every suggestions is welcome

#10 9 years ago
Quoted from Cheese_WizardPQ:

Hey!
I just changed The fuses with No success
I'll still trying to figure out why those coils/switches act like crazies!
Every suggestions is welcome

Can measure and post the measurements of the 5 volts and both 12 volt test points?

#11 9 years ago

I should be able. Santa gave me a multimeter for. Just Tell me exactly where I take the 5 and 12 volt points. On J116? Some where else on The board?
Thanks!

#12 9 years ago

Use the continuity (resistance) setting on your multimeter and check all the fuses. If you're multimeter has a speaker it should beep when the fuses are good meaning current is flowing. You can't tell if the fuse is blown by looking at them.

#13 9 years ago
Quoted from Cheese_WizardPQ:

I should be able. Santa gave me a multimeter for. Just Tell me exactly where I take the 5 and 12 volt points. On J116? Some where else on The board?
Thanks!

Yes, best to measure at J116 since that is going right to the ColorDMD. Though you should be able to measure it off the connector that was pulled out to add the power adapter in for the display so you don't really have to remove it at J116.

#14 9 years ago

J116, j117, and j118 are all the same. You can use any of those. But it's possible your 12v fuse keeps blowing the second you replace it. So you need to test the fuses with a meter not just say "that didn't work".

#15 9 years ago

Also, as a side note be sure check the manual for the correct fuse size. I have found people will put in larger fuses than recommended for some reason. Maybe that's all they had at the time and forgot about it? Who knows. Never assume the fuse you took out was the right size, especially on older games.

#16 9 years ago

Resistance = a good fuse should give me 0 ohm on the multimeter?

My fuses are The good ones. I bought Marco's fuse kits for every game I have. The last thing I want to deal with when I Play is searching fuses

#17 9 years ago

Don't worry about a super small amount of resistance. You care here only about open and short.

#18 9 years ago

Ok. Even if I changed F116 yesterday, the multimeter was clear; blown fuse. I chsnged it again and now It's working (or It's not blown Yet...) J116 is powering The DMD

But it didnt change my coil problem sending back an imaginary ball non stop. I'll investigate longer tomorrow!
Thanks every body

#19 9 years ago
Quoted from Cheese_WizardPQ:

Ok. Even if I changed F116 yesterday, the multimeter was clear; blown fuse. I chsnged it again and now It's working (or It's not blown Yet...) J116 is powering The DMD
But it didnt change my coil problem sending back an imaginary ball

You mean switch problem, not coil problem.

#20 9 years ago

Yes you're right!

#21 9 years ago

It's likely your playfield is not receiving 12V.

Please make sure that the playfield power connector (the one that normally goes to J116) has been reconnected to the ColorDMD power cable using the supplied male-to-male adapter.

#22 9 years ago

Pretty sure you're right Dmod. I just took another look at J116/J117/J118 and there is 2 wires (black and white..or maybe its grey) that are disconnect from connector. I'm100% positive (by the way they are) that they should be connect to the same connector
Now I just need to figure out on which connector they go.
I'm no electrician so is there a Graphic or a way to see the correct wiring of these 3 connectors?

#23 9 years ago

They only go in one way. You can force them in upside down but the clips on the header fit naturally with the prongs on the plug. It should be very easy to figure out how to put it in correctly especially if you pull j116,117, or 118 and look at those connectors orientation.

#24 9 years ago

there is a misunderstanding here

I'm saying that there is 2 disconnected wires from their connector. I just dont know on which connector to weld them back. Is it on J116 or J117 orJ118? All connectors are in place right now.

sorry if i'm not super clear

I found in the manual some electric graphs and stuff but It would be so much easier to just get a Picture of these 3 connectors to see which color wires are going truth them!

#25 9 years ago

The connectors are all wired in the same order

1 gray (5v)
2 black (ground)
3 gray/yellow (12v)
4 key

The key pin is the one with the peg in the socket. If there are only two wires on one of the connectors, they will be connected in the locations above corresponding to the wire colors.

Make sure you get this right as wiring 5v logic to 12v can severely damage your boards. I would recommend you seek help from someone in your area experienced with pinball repair.

#26 9 years ago

Thanks Dmod!

#27 9 years ago

what's the easiest way to reconnect a wire to those J116-J119' s connectors?
I remove what was left from the broken wire into the connector and I just push back the disconnect wire?
Or do I have to sold the wire directly into the appropriate socket?
thanks again!

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