Is one of your wires backwards on your sling shot switches?

I've seen when someone does a PF swap they mix up the switches so if both activate at the same time they slam tilt.

This happens, of course mostly in multiball.

=

Have you gone into switch test mode and made sure that each switch is activating the correct #?

Sometimes a diode cracks and can cause strange combos across the switch matrix.

Take the glass off and try to recreate (after the switch test, of course).

Did you put any mods on it that could be drawing a lot of power when the multi ball mode starts?

Got the same problem
Machine has worked without a problem for years, installed a color DMD, activate multiball and fuse blows (not every time)

Same thing was going on with mine and with all the mods it was overloading the circuit and blowing fuse 116. The slide would start popping away just like yours. What hologram light are you using? I had a halogen bulb witch finally broke the camels back and was over loading the circuit.Also check the hologram motors they draw a lot of power when they are going bad and that could make the circuit overload. You could just unplug the motors and see if that works. I switched to an led bulb and now everything seems to work good now. I have been good for a few months with no problems.

troutfarm...this is only happening when the creature appears? if so, disconnect the holo motor and the Halogen light and see how she does.

yes this:

Sounds like you've got a marginal +12 unregulated section.

Culprits could be multiple.

It could just be more load than the circuit was designed for. If so, you'll have to reduce the load somehow, or tie in another +12 circuit.

I don't know how much the color DMD draws, obviously you want to enjoy that as it's a majorly cool effect, and wasn't inexpensive at all..

If the Rottendog board fixes the problem, perhaps you should send the original out and have the +12 unregulated circuit examined and repaired.

ColorDMD should draw between 0.5-0.6A at MED backlight setting. The current pull is mostly from the LED string that makes up the backlight. You can reduce this by around 0.15A by setting the backlight to LOW.

The LED string mod at the back of the game could be pulling a similar amount of additional current and the combination overloading the fuse when the lamp/motor kick on. Try disconnecting the LED string and see if it resolves the issue. If so, you may need to add an additional 12V supply to support the LED string.

Check TP1 and make sure it's over 13V. Then put the game in test mode, and turn on the motor and lamp. Make sure it stays over 12.5V. If it's lower than that you may have a failing bridge or capacitor on the power driver board.

I went to home depot and they have an led mr16 that fits. It draws 3.3 watts and it is nice and bright. That should cut your draw down a little bit. The one you have in there is at least 20 watts and every bit counts.

I'd say Halogen mod is doing it, had same thing on mine and I have a s***ton of extra stuff besides yours on mine. No problem until adding the halogen, go to an LED as above. Sidenote: installed the TV mod same thing, but now powering the tv standalone and no issues.

Did you ever put your meter in Amp mode and use it in place of the fuse?

I'd be curious about the draw before the Halogen turns on.....

If you decide to sell the halogen, please let me know, I have interest and wouldn't mind saving a few bucks.

You have the 12V unregulated circuit overloaded. It is designed with a 3 amp fuse and shouldn't run more than 80% of that (2.4 amps)

Normally in attract mode this circuit runs at .8 to 1.2 amps.

The following all use the 12V UR Circuit
Ramp lights (32 bulbs with 3/4 on at the same time 1.2 watts per bulb but not sure what the 12V draw is from the Triacs)
Hologram lamp- The original is a 1156 automotive bulb that draws 1.5 to 2.0 amps!!

At a minimum the game is already drawing 2.3 amps on that circuit when in multi-ball mode with the hologram on and the ramp lights on.

So now add the mods
Color DMD another .25 to .5 amps
LED light strip adds another .1 to .25 amps
Change the 25W incandescent hologram lamp to a 20 watt halogen will reduce the current a touch. Make sure it's not hotter than that (like a 50 watt) or change it to an 89 LED bulb and it will greatly decrease the draw.

Creature LCD mod actually decreases current draw as the monitor only uses .25 amps but you eliminate the hologram lamp.

The hologram lamp is the big current eater in this game. Changing this will open up some headroom on that circuit. Otherwise add a separate 12 V power supply and run the mods and the hologram lamp from it.

Note that normally WPC games with motors usually run the motors from the 12V circuit but it appears that the hologram motors are running from 48V AC.

The 12V circuit is easily overloaded on CFTBL, Whodunnit? and STTNG.

When he changes the halogen to an led he will still use the lamp receptical so there won't be any thing to sell.

Sweet! 7 watt (0.6 amps) LED with equivalent light output to the 40 watt halogen (3.3 amps). You'd never be able to put a 40 watt halogen into the creature.

Where did you get that bulb?

Just started experiencing this problem on mine this week, did this solution work long term?

I got one at home depot.

I have this same issue (after I installed my color dmd as well) and will try to find this bulb and see if it solves the issue!

Well I found pretty much the same bulb you had in your pic and went to change it but it is not plug and play. Not sure why I was thinking that it was. Did you install a matching socket or just hard wire the new bulb style? Any tips? Thanks!

IMG_2442 (resized).JPG

To use that bulb you would need the pinbits upgrade kit that changes the socket type.

ahhh ok cool ill look for that thanks

Ok so after buying this $13 bulb that I could not use I just installed a 89 style bayonet based flasher led that I had in stock and it works great!

I had the same problem with f116 blowing during multiball after putting the color dmd in my creech. Many thanks to all the posters on this thread. Replaced the holo lamp bulb with this, https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/1156-led-bulb-w-stock-cover-36-smd-led-tower-ba15s-retrofit-car/1686/ No more blown fuse and the creature holo really pops with the new bulb.

Nice. I still have never had the game reset since the bulb swap