(Topic ID: 79267)

CFTBL- Fans and members welcome!!!

By vilant

5 years ago

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  • 2,667 posts
  • 327 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by Rdoyle1978
  • Topic is favorited by 173 Pinsiders


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#1 5 years ago

Hi All,
just picked up the second pin in my collection. CFTBL!!! Can't believe there's not a club for the Creech, if there is, can someone show me where it is. Here's some pics of mine. The cabinet overall is in really good shape, has some bad damage in the back where the rear legs are (can't see from the front though). Everything electrically works perfect, DMD, holo, sound, flippers, etc.. The playfield is dirty so I'm going to tear it down, shop it, and give and a thorough cleaning. Show me some pics of your mods and give me some ideas for mine. And ideas and help before I shop it is welcome too. Can't wait to get it up and running. I always loved this pin
CFTBL 001.jpgCFTBL 002.jpgCFTBL 003.jpgCFTBL 006.jpgCFTBL 007.jpgCFTBL 009.jpg

#4 5 years ago

Thanks, fellas. The must have's for the moment on mine are; cabinet leg protectors, new rubber, translite lock, and one piece of plastic is cracked. Shooter rod sounds like a good one, I'll look into that one. Didn't realize the pop-bumpers had no lights, that should make down tear down easier, lol. I'll have to find a pic of the speaker mod panel and see what it looks like. The color dmd and the lcd screen together are probably around $600 (maybe more). They're very cool but I was looking at spending @ $500 total for, bang for your buck mods (led's, toys, etc. and other incidentals I'll need after tear down.). I'm debating about a full led package or just few to make the machine pop. Not sure what kind of toys are out there for the play field. The PO has a pink cadillac in there. May take it out and put something else in (not much of a pink cadillac fan, lol)

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Howdy. Big Creech fan here
Got mine about a year ago and added leds (in ramps too...purple and green), lcd mod, color display, light up car, creature led lit figure from Monster Bash tied to a rollover bulb, replaced all ramps with new and a new center window. Led backboard mod coming soon-just got my deluxe mirrored panel. Love it.

That color dmd looks nice (was wondering how they would look on the game). I just ordered green #86 bulbs for my ramps. Did you have to replace the light strips in the ramps or do the LED's plug into the existing light strip? I couldn't find LED's that were that small. I'm thinking of making my own under cabinet LED lights too.

#13 5 years ago

That is really cool, I would be interested in that if they ever make it.

#14 5 years ago

Not sure if there's something out there, but I would like to find a plastic piece for the top of the sling under the bowl. The steel looks blah, maybe a solid green or blue piece or something with fish maybe?

#18 5 years ago

Whoops my bad, like he said ^, I meant the ball guide not the sling.
I just started ordering the stuff I need (couple new plastic pieces, rubber, cliffy, etc). I'll look into BCS and see what they have.

#52 5 years ago

I'm lovin' these pics you guys are posting, some really great mods.
Creaturemonster, where did you get that mini Creech and mini CFTBL pinball from? I have to have one
I like the shooter mods too, not sure which one I like better though, claw or head?
I'm actually looking at making my own decal for the ball guide under the bowl. Saw a how-to on youtube, just need to figure out what I actually want to be under there. I'm going to look into that sign too, thanks fiberdude120 for heads up on who makes them.

#55 5 years ago

I agree, the PC trim with the green dmd really pops.

#63 5 years ago
Quoted from creaturemonster:

Vilant creech playing CFTBL machine. I bought on ebay. Type in burger king Creature from the Black Lagoon they cost from $8 to $15. Type in 1/12 scale pinball machines there is a guy that makes almost any pinball machine runs about $50 ships from UK.

Thanks Got the mini pinball from Etsy for $40 shipped and the Burger King toy new for $9 shipped. I just bought my machine a week ago. Always loved playing it, and finally had an opportunity to buy one. Just started tearing down the playfield.

#64 5 years ago
Quoted from OlDirty:

Just a few pics of my restored creature. I think it's one of the best looking pinballs. Bought it as my first pinball and still love it. The no-mercy-only-2-balls- multiball can be pretty fustrating, but makes me playing it again and again.
ยป YouTube video

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Sweet machine. What did you use to get the clear plastic lagoon looking so good? The same stuff you used for the swirls on the plastics? Mine is pretty dirty and scuffed, was thinking about buying a new one but whatever you used, yours came out looking new.

#72 5 years ago

Anyone know a method to clean the hologram? Mine is a little dirty and needs a cleaning. It's still fairly green and I don't want to damage it. Was thinking spot free glass cleaner and a micro fiber cloth. What has everyone used?

#74 5 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I was afraid to try any chemicals. I used a damp clean microfiber cloth very lightly.

Yea so am I. Maybe I'll just go with some distilled water (have some left over from battery refill) and micro fiber.

#75 5 years ago

Have a tip for you all. So I decided to go with LED's on the underside of playfield. Some kits are $200-$300 for full conversion and they're not non-ghosting. If you break down what you need individually it's cheaper. Here's an itemized list of every light on CFTBL. Figure each bulb (depending on what you get) is @ $1 each. There are 188 (adding 3 for jet bumper upgrade). Should put you around $190-$200 for non-ghosting LED full conversion. I spent $80 shipped for 78 LED's from here http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=192&pg=1 for the entire underside. All LED's were the Ablaze ghost busters. Here's the breakdown for the underside:
(11)- #44 w/ flex head (for the angled sockets) ghost buster
1- White
5- blue
2- orange
3- yellow
(28)- #44 standard ghost buster
19- white
3- yellow
3- red
3- orange (for the lane dividers after "PASS")
(12)- #89 flashers
12- white
(28)- #555 standard ghost buster
8- white
1- red
9- yellow
10- orange (I decided to make the "FILM" lights orange, minus 4 from here and add 4 to white if that's what you want)

The above is what I purchased except I added 3- #44 (red) for the jet bumpers (have extra sockets) for $80 shipped (before the correction).
Here's the rest:
3- #44 for the coin door (I have 3 slots, you may have 2).
(10)- #555 for the signs on the playfield- 3- green, 3- white, 3- yellow, and 1-red.
32- #86 for the ramps and bowl of whatever color you like.
41- #555 (white) for the backbox.
25- #906 (white) for the backbox.

Post edited by vilant : number of bulbs correction

#80 5 years ago

No problem. I just installed all the LED's on the underside and I had 1-#555 orange extra and was short 1-#555 red, also was short 2-#44 white. Forgot to check if everything was right when they came in. I'll just assume I was wrong (even though the order they shipped could of been wrong), so I corrected the list. Also I ordered 3- white #44 LED's for the lane dividers right below the "PASS" forgetting the dividers were orange I'll correct this in the list too.

#81 5 years ago

Just double-checked, there is only 1 red #555 under the playfield. So unless they mixed 1 red, in a bag of orange, they forgot my red. Won't know for sure until I get everything back together again to see if there's a red in an orange spot ( I put the extra orange in the red spot). The list is all good now

1 week later
#96 5 years ago

Haven't tried it. I bought a LED accent kit from Lowe's and mounted it underneath myself. Has a bunch of features like, remote control, lots of different colors, dimming, change color mode. Made by Sylvania, cost $40-$50.

#99 5 years ago
Quoted from tmac:

So it doesn't react to gameplay?

That price is half of what the Interactive Lighting Kit is.

No, it is not interactive. You can use it for different types of accent lighting. I've seen cheaper under cabinet kits but I'm sure they're just one color. If you do go with the one from Lowes, make sure you clean first. Its a self adhesive light strip. Won't stick well if it's dirty (although you could strap it up if you needed to).

Rob, good idea with pink in the hearts. I like it. I went with orange in the divide lanes, teal looks cool though.

1 week later
#113 5 years ago

Just finished up getting mine back to 100%. What I did; complete teardown of playfield, cleaned inside and out, removed mylar, scratches and swirls removed, polished and waxed, replaced broken plastics with new and removed swirls from any good existing ones, polished all metal parts, new left ramp (was cracked and broken), flame polished other ramps, new playfield plastic window (old one was beyond repair), LED's on the underside of the playfield, green flipper buttons and flipper bats (with green super bands), touched up the cabinet, LED's in the pop bumpers, new rubber, and had to fix some audio issues. Here's a few pics
complete 001.jpgcomplete 021.jpgcomplete 011.jpgcomplete 015.jpgcomplete 005.jpgcomplete 003.jpg

There's more I want to do, but is on hold for now.

#117 5 years ago
Quoted from jimmyb:

Where can I get the mini Creature and mini CFTBL pinball machine? So cool!!

The mini creech is a Burger King toy, look on eBay. I found a mini pinball on Etsy, although I'm still waiting for it to arrive (was shipped from U.K. on 2/10).

#118 5 years ago
Quoted from TaTa:

Looks terrific!
Can't wait to play it!

Come on over. Gotta warn ya though, with the fresh wax and super bands it is FAST

#123 5 years ago

Where did most of you get your plastics from? I have a bunch of places in mind but I like your opinion. I have seen the K-I-S-S plastic is bent over the deflector bracket. I saw it on post "Blog" about using a heat gun so that the plastic conforms to the deflector bracket when it is fastened. Same as the snack bar hole. I take it most of you have done this?

I bought 3 new plastic pieces 2 of which were the same. Didn't realize there was a topic on it but knew something had to be done. So I put each piece in place and rested it on top of each deflector. Heated the piece over the deflector slowly with a heat gun and gently pushed it down at the same time until it conformed nicely. In hindsight, I should of just bought a complete set of plastics. I spent @$60 for 3, and a complete set is $100 more, but I spent a lot and was looking to save money. I must admit though, buffing my old pieces with scratch remover made them look like new. It's just were the backing rubbed off underneath by posts that I notice. Most places have similar prices on plastics but I bought from a couple different ones. I would go with a complete set if you can swing it.

2 weeks later
#129 5 years ago
Quoted from tmac:

Helloooooooooooooo.......... Anyone there. Helloooooooooo. This club only meet once a month

I've been busy playing my machine One thing that drives me nuts when I play is, you do all this work to get the multiball and as soon as you get it, it lasts less than 30 seconds, lol. Not always, but like 80% of the time I lose a ball that quickly, then the pressure is on to hit the snack bar while risking a drain SDTM. I would love a 3 ball multiball or a ball save to help save my sanity when in the multiball, lol.

#135 5 years ago
Quoted from tmac:

I think it is one of the most satisfying shots in pinball when you hit the snack bar with time running out on you!

I think the most satisfying shot is hitting the left ramp in multiball. It's just fun watchin' it come around, with the ramp lights and sound effects going, and then spinning around the bowl.
On another note, has anyone ever got the "new car" or "hula hoop" in the snack bar? Is that just a joke? And I still haven't figured out how much you get for a hamburger, pretzel, or popcorn. The graphics are still going on when it spits your ball back out.

#139 5 years ago

Tough call. Can you program the LCD kits? Could you program the screen to be off until certain things happen, like finding the creature or opening the snack bar? That would keep some of the black lagoon. I personally like the holo, but those LCD screens are pretty damn cool too.

#141 5 years ago

Well if you don't mind doing the work, why don't you install the kit and see how you like it. If you don't, you can always put your NOS holo back in. BTW, I don't think the LED bulb will cut down on that much heat under the playfield as the projector bulb really isn't on for that long. The LED does produce far less heat and uses much less power than a standard projector bulb, but I would think most of the heat under the playfield is generated by the transformer, coils and lights.

#147 5 years ago

I have "B", but they've only been in for @ 100 games. Still look new, but I guess only time will tell for how long.

Quoted from tmac:Was playing against my brother today and was waiting my turn and I swear I saw 1 million for popcorn when he got it.
Edit: Yep and 5 million for Hamburger.

Thanks. Was wondering about that. Now to figure what the hula hoop and new car are

3 months later
#222 5 years ago

Impressive....most impressive.
How do you have set yours set up? I have mine set up pretty tough, think my GC is @ 320 mil.
It's a double edged sword, it can be frustrating, but when you get it going, it's more rewarding (I think at least). Was curious as to what other's high scores are. But I would assume, other than well experienced players, the easier it's set up, the higher your score is. Anyone get a billion before? Or does it reset to 0?

4 weeks later
#229 5 years ago
Quoted from OldHarley:

I am shopping out my creature. I am trying to install the outlane posts but I am confused. It appears that I have a 10-32 post but it won't screw in. It seems that in looking at the metal plate that these screw into ( the one that has three options for widening or narrowing the out lane) it appears that it is 8x32. Am i nuts? Wondering if I mixed something up somewhere. I even got out my 10-32 tap but it just doesn't appear to fit. I look on line and only see 10-32 metal posts. Can anyone help me with a part number of what these post are supposed to be.

Just looked, it's a 8/32 @ 2" long. All you need is the screw not the post, unless you swapped posts. The post is just a metal sleeve, screw is separate, with a notch for the rubber. At least that's how mine is.

#231 5 years ago

this is what mine has x2
You can get the 8/32" screws (1-1/2" to 2" should work) and washers (mine has washers under the post) at any hardware store.

4 months later
#327 4 years ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

Does anyone have advice on how to go about replacing or repairing the snack bar target switches? Mine are intermittent and need some work. Part number is A-16206-2 but they are not available anywhere online. I'd like to have some replacement parts on hand before I disasseble anything so if anyone knows of an alternate part number I could modify or cannibalize to make mine work it would be much appreciated.

When I shopped mine, I just cleaned up the contacts with very fine sand paper. Steel wool or emory paper should work too. Just get the soot off and make them shiny again. You might have to give them a little bend too, depending if the contacts are too close or too far apart. Can't remember if they have foam (I know my TAF targets did), but if they do and it needs to be replaced, you can use door and window sealing foam. It's cheap and comes as a roll of 1/2" or 3/4" strip with self adhesive back, works well.

1 week later
#344 4 years ago
Quoted from Arena:

Can anyone help me to identify this part number for the post?
Thought maybe 02-4252-19? Can't find anything similar.

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Don't know the exact part# but Marco calls them hex spacers (they're out of stock for CFTBL specific). I know them as rod couplings or coupling nuts. They should be 8\32" threads inside, but first make sure what size thread it is. Then measure the overall length. Here's some sources
I would call and verify thread size from pinball life. They say 1\4" but I think that's the overall width of the nut, not the thread. Hope that helps.

4 weeks later
#386 4 years ago

You need to be extremely careful flame polishing the lagoon. I did the ramps without incident and the plastic is much thinner. Tried the lagoon and I cooked it. Bit the bullet and bought a new one. I think because its thicker you have to heat it more, but just the slightest bit too much and it gets permanently damaged.

1 month later
#458 4 years ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

I should have clarified, I meant the under the playfield part.

Are you talking about the piece that connects the scoop to the subway underneath? If yours just broke a weld, you could just have it tack welded.

#459 4 years ago

Does anyone have the wiring schematics book for CFTBL? Looking for the resistor values (on HV section below the 3 heat sinked transistors) on the DMD board. Just bought a rebuild kit and the ohms don't match up right between the old and new ones ( could be the old ones are shot, but I want to verify).

#464 4 years ago
Quoted from paulywalnuts23:

Also you can get an digital copy of the manual and other materials here..

Didn't realize they had it there, thanks Pauly.

#466 4 years ago

Yikes. Any way to that crap off and get it welded right? I take it the ball isn't rolling properly into the subway?

4 months later
#511 4 years ago

I love the bobble head Creech

3 months later
#581 3 years ago

Behind the translight. You can light them up individually through the service menu.

2 months later
#709 3 years ago
Quoted from Rustyck:

Looking to the group for some help on where to find a replacement part.
The outlane posts that I have on my Creech are pretty banged up/bent (the adjustable outline posts without the rubber).
I can't seem to find these anywhere or locate a part number - does anybody know where to pick these up, or at least a comparable replacement?

Should be one of these.


3 weeks later
#724 3 years ago
Quoted from Joely-Boy:

Hey guys, I know it's probably a long shot but I'm searching for the metal ball guide that goes up into slide as the one on my current Creech isn't in the best shape. I can't manage to find one anywhere online but if anyone knows where I can find a new or good second hand one I would really appreciate it.
I've attached a pic of the last Creech I built with the ball guide I need, it's the one on the right.
Cheers Joel

I thought you could sand them to bring them back to life. Remember someone here did it. Thought they used an abrasive polish and sanding with fine paper, like 2000-3000.

#728 3 years ago

I agree, take it to a metal shop. They should be able to bend it back and tig weld the post back on. It may not look pretty but it'll work.

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