Holomodsp has always been compatible with the Soren Rom Rev5, as well as with the L-4 (and probably even L-3). https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hologram-mod-for-creature-from-pinballsp-is-under-development#post-3602030

Since the first firmware release, the Holomodsp has already been tested with both Roms, and all necessary firmware changes have been made to support the Soren Rom.

If there is a version later than Rev5 I would check it out, but I don't think it will affect the switch matrix or lamp signals. I seem to remember that the differences were in the digital signals of the data bus that deliver information about the status of the lamps, flasher and coils. These differences are present between the older versions of the WPC89 system and the later WPC-S and WPC95, it seems that the newer versions handle the lighting of the lamps more efficiently avoiding the ghost lighting of some lamps.

If you haven't done it yet, I suggest you update the firmware of the green board (Raspberry), because it greatly improves the boot time of the product to about 15 seconds, less than half of the first versions.

https://github.com/pinballsp/Creature-HOLO-ModSP/tree/master/firmware

 
This video of the machine in play with the Holomodsp kit, was made with the Soren Rom Rev5.

 
All Holomodsp kits install a Raspberry (green board).

The only thing that has changed is the size of that board (green), it is now smaller (see image below). But the firmware is the same for both, you can download it from the project's Github and update your kit. In addition to improving the boot time, all the videos were also included, the last two for the base package and the 6 for the extra package.

And if your kit is one of the first, I also recommend that you update the firmware of the blue board (Holomodsp), I made some improvements in the triggering of the FILM videos and the programming to trigger the latest videos of the base package was added.

https://github.com/pinballsp/Creature-HOLO-ModSP/tree/master/firmware
 

Holo_RPY_Versions.jpg

 
Thanks Scott, for the video, and especially for your other two videos that you have uploaded on your Youtube account about HolomodSP.

There is a comment that you make with which I agree 100%: a DMD, even if it is in Color, does not add anything to the game, basically because nobody is looking at the DMD while playing, but Holomodsp is in the field of play, where the user is constantly looking during the game, and being interactive, provides information about the state of the game, not only is it a visually attractive product, it is also a USEFUL product.

I play pinball very little because I don't have free time, but when I turn on the Creature, if I have the Holomodsp screen off, it just gets boring. I have the MiniScreen and another mod for the Creature in development, and the same thing happens to me, when I disconnect them for testing, I miss them, the machine simply becomes something cold, almost lifeless.

 
What is the problem ?

The power supply is connected, with two quick splicers, to the 100v of the power connector of the DMD controller board, so the Holomodsp power is turned on and off at the same time as the machine. This is how everyone who buys the power supply with the kit installs it and they have no problems.

I have it like this also in my pinball and it works perfectly. The photos in the manual are from the installation of my machine.

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Holomodsp es the only interactive high quality product available.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hologram-mod-for-creature-from-pinballsp-is-under-development

 
Contact for orders and inquiries.
Email: [email protected]
Skype: pinballsp
Telegram: pinballsp
Whatsapp: +34693344445

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Holomodsp, interactive system with 30 video animations.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hologram-mod-for-creature-from-pinballsp-is-under-development
 

Contact for orders and inquiries.
Email: [email protected]
Skype: pinballsp
Telegram: pinballsp
Whatsapp: +34693344445

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You will not find any serious additional options. Some put up a methacrylate with a drawing or a doll, I suppose due to lack of budget to install something serious. The only serious product currently available is Holomodsp, up to 30 video animations, one per event, fully interactive.

All of this, as seen in your photo, is incorrectly wired, from both J504 and J505 only one cable should come out of each one with the amplifier's live signal, and the ground is probably taken by the speakers of the mesh that conducts the mass throughout the machine.

Attached is a photo of the correct wiring in J504 and J505. The curious thing is that both the machine manual and the WPC89 schematic are also wrong. Also checked on my Addams Family, which is also WPC89 and has the same cables as in the photo I attached of my Creature.

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What a mess you're making.
The Shadow is a WPC-S and the Creature is a WPC89, the sound cards are different and so is the wiring.
 
The WPC-S have two sound amplifiers (TDA2030), one for the front panel and another for the cabinet speaker, that is why in each connector J1 and J2 there are two wires, each speaker is independent and has its own amplifier and two wires. .
 
The Creature is a WPC89, its sound card has only ONE sound amplifier (LM1875) for all the speakers. If J504 and J505 are interchangeable, and in one of the connectors there is one cable on pin2, and in another connector one cable on pin3, and according to the diagrams, pins 1-2 go to the audio signal and 3-4 to ground, that only has one explanation, the speakers are connected in SERIAL. From the connector with pin2 a cable comes out to one of the speakers, let's say it goes to the front panel speakers, from the other pole of that speaker a cable comes out to the cabinet speaker, and from the second pole of this speaker comes the cable that goes to to pin3 of the other connector on the sound card.
 
Connect the cables as in the photo I posted and check that each one goes to a speaker, pin2 to the front panel and pin3 to the cabinet speaker, and that in addition to the other pole of the front speaker there is a cable that connects to the other pole of the speaker of cabinet. If the machine has not been modified incorrectly, everything should be connected like this.

The thing is that if someone modified the speaker wiring, things get complicated, you will have to check where each speaker wire is connected. I have checked the set of photos I took of my machines when I sold the Addams and the Creature, and the speakers are definitely connected in serial as I told you.

There is a single-pin connector that connects from the cabinet speaker to the front panel speakers. You could have that pin disconnected. I marked it in the photos with a yellow circle.

In these photos I have identified the pin 2 cable, which carries the signal from the amplifier, and pin 3, which carries the ground, and the cable that connects both speakers with a 1-pin connector. This is the correct factory wiring, if it has been modified you will have to follow the wires to see where they are connected.

What can be dangerous is if the wiring has been modified to connect the speakers in parallel instead of serial, because the resulting impedance will be half and that could burn out the sound amplifier. If the speakers are 4 ohm with the correct wiring in serial, the total impedance would be 8 ohm, quite normal, but if they are connected in parallel it will be 2 ohm, very low, it can burn out the amplifier.
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Holomodsp, interactive system with 30 video animations.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hologram-mod-for-creature-from-pinballsp-is-under-development
 

Contact for orders and inquiries.
Email: [email protected]
Skype: pinballsp
Telegram: pinballsp
Whatsapp: +34693344445

Pinside_forum_3602030_2415204.jpg

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Enter my product thread, there are people who post about their experience, there are also people who have posted videos on YouTube (search for Holomodsp).

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hologram-mod-for-creature-from-pinballsp-is-under-development
 

You can download the User Manual from the project's github, there you can see how to install it, it is very simple.

https://github.com/pinballsp/Creature-HOLO-ModSP/tree/master/User%20Manual-%20instructions

 
If you have no voltage at J104 1-2, then you have open fuse F112 on the driver board. At J104 1-2 there is 50v AC (maybe more without load), the same voltage that is then rectified and used for all the coils on the board. Surely you have measured wrong.

Apart from that, you most likely have fuse F1 on the motor board open, which is why neither motor is working. There are other possible faults on the motor board, such as the optocoupler or the triac, but if you do not have voltage they surely cannot work.
 

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Hi Roger.

The best thing you can do is contact directly with the customers who have purchased the product who have posted about their experiences, you have them both on YouTube and in the post on this forum about the product. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hologram-mod-for-creature-from-pinballsp-is-under-development/page/62#post-7967136

Keep one thing in mind, although some people think that this forum is the center of the pinball universe, it is not true, there are many fans who are not members of this forum, or they have accounts and do not use them or they have posted occasionally and do years that do not participate.

I have many clients of my DMD, SEGA controller and Holomodsp who are not members of this forum, or they have an account but have never posted. This is more common than many think.

A little over one year ago I myself decided to never post again in this forum about my designs and developments, as it was plagued by trolls, and people who dedicate themselves to insulting, defaming, making destructive criticism without being clients, and inventing and disseminating lies to harm and discredit. A shame, because this place seemed interesting, but it is not at all, now I only post on Facebook and Instagram, I connect here once every 2 or 3 months to check that everything is the same and it is not worth posting again.

One more thing, what you will not find here or in other forums, is anyone complaining about my product, or saying that they paid and received nothing or that the product does not work or that it does not meet what was advertised or that they have not received assistance if they had any problem. That is already a positive point, because when someone feels scammed they immediately go to forums to express their complaints publicly. All my clients are satisfied with the product and with the after-sales service if they have had any problems during the installation (which are almost always solved by cleaning the connectors with isopropyl alcohol, something that is indicated in the user manual that no one reads XD).

Unplug the connectors J133, J134 and J135, and measure continuity with the tester between pins 2 and 5 of female connector J133, if there is continuity then there is a short circuit in the wiring. If connectors J134 and J135 exist, do the same test.

If the above test is negative then replace U16(LM339) of the Power Driver Board, it is damaged.