Excellent job! Also it's very bright and you can see it clearly as most holograms are originally a bit dim.

Okay, only my opinion, but I don't like warm white in the GI's, too old style. Cool white along with color matching in areas looks good (match colors that highlights the plastics that are above them). I agree too much color on only one color is too much, but a good mix I feel makes the machine pop and modernize the machine. That is what I have done with mine.

20190802_155446 (resized).jpg

20190923_135919 (resized).jpg

20190825_130702 (resized).jpg

I too have had added alot of lighting mods to my Bally/Williams 90's machines. After two to three added plugs to J116, J117 and J118 thought like you it was time to remove the additional power to a separate source. My Twilight Zone looked like a mess in and around the area in the head. Did some checking and read of this company Mypinballs Electronics Mod Power Expander Board for WPC and WPC-95 Games https://mypinballs.com/electronics/store.jsp made a board specifically for this. I purchased two of these, one for my Creature and Twilight Zone. I mounted it in the lower left side of the bottom cabinet and added a separate 110V power source from the main power supply (that switches on/off with the cabinet switch). This got the mess out of the head and gave me peace of mind that I am not over loading the power driver board. This board is a bit expensive, but worth it.
Good luck....Mike

Hi gac,
Good questions, here are the answers.
Yes, I did purchase the expander board with the option of 5V and 12V. This way I can choose either one by simply by where the wires are configured on the plug on the mod being plugged in.
There are 8 plug-ins on this board for mods. 8 12V or 8 5V or a combination of both, but 8 total.
Buying this board comes with it's own power supply that plugs into 120V AC. I modified (added to) the out going connection by the transformer the line for the power supply. The cable that comes with the kit has different colors than what we are use to here in the USA. That's because this company that makes this expansion board is out of our country. By some diagnostic work I was able to figure (see picture) that green was ground, blue was white (neutral) and brown was black (hot). In the long run I was just wanting a 120V power source that turns on/off with the cabinet switch.
Also you can see that I mounted this expansion board in the lower left side of the bottom cabinet. I did this mainly to eliminate more wires in the head and that most of the added mods are on the playfield.
I chose this board because it expanded the same style of plugs off the driver board j116, j117 and j118. Also because most of the mods people make plug into these plugs.
Hope this helps, ask me for any more help and I will answer the best I can. Good luck....Mike

20200421_081622 (resized).jpg

20200421_081638 (resized).jpg

20200421_081803 (resized).jpg

20200421_081905 (resized).jpg

You said you "modified" and "...in the long run I was just wanting a 120v power source that turns on/off with the cabinet switch." This is ideal. How is the expander board normally powered on? You said it has its own 120v AC. Does it have its own switch that has to be powered on separately from the game?

Okay let me see if I can clarify this. When you purchase this kit you get the board and a power transformer with a power cord for powering the transformer along with a second cord that runs from the transformer to the board. The power cord is to be connected to a 120V power source of your choice.

I wanted to be able to power this board on/off without having to plug it in every time I wanted to play as the kit doesn't come with an on/off switch. So I like a clean look. Note: There is a power cord/outlet usually by the lower right side of the inside of the cabinet. This power source usually does not turn on/off with the underside cabinet switch and is usually used for a power source for your soldering iron.
So I found where the incoming 120V power source that does turn on/off with the cabinet switch at the plug connection by the transformer. I removed the two pins (one white/neutral and black/hot) and added the power cord connection there along tapping the ground wire on the side of the cabinet.

Once this is installed by turning on the cabinet switch you also turn on the power for the transformer that powers the expansion board.

I know this is not a plug in play and someone could make a connecting plug adapter for this 120V connection for those who would want it. I just did it for my self.

20200421_081803 (resized).jpg

Most customers wouldn't be able to modify the way you did, but a plug 'n' play cable wouldn't be that expensive to provide for WPC(95) users, correct?
When customers are leery about buying mods in fear of putting strain on their power supply, I'd like to be able to provide them with smart options.
If you're willing, I'd like more details on that outgoing connection by the transformer. It's unused, correct?

Yes, an adapter/plug connection at the transformer would not be too hard to make and not very expensive.
The connector where I plugged my power source for the expansion board transformer in is used as this is the connecting spot for power to the main pinball transformer. It was just an easy location to catch 120V that turned on/off with the cabinet switch.

I attached a picture of part of the installation instructions that comes with the expansion board. Yes, like others noted on the 3 prong connector (its 4 prong, but only 3 being used) has both choices for voltage on them. The far left as 5V next plug being GND (ground) and the third one 12V. The four one is not used as it's a pin plug so that you don't plug the connector in backwards. Take a look at the picture lower left. Hope this helps.
20200422_084048 (resized).jpg

Yes, it does come with its own power transformer and cord for power it. I don't remember, but I don't think it came with a 120V USA power cord end plug. I think just loose wires at the end as you will need to add a cord plug because this kit does come from the UK.

Yes, I believe so that would work. The only difference is the one you get with the expansion board has just the wires loose at the plug-in connection for powering plug of your choice.

I would be interested in adding my name to the list.

Great video and enjoy it very much, well done! Welcome to owning a Creature.
Note: on a couple of things. LED lighting, I never buy the kits due to you are limited to what they send you. I always buy many different colors to make my own choice. Frosted LEDs work best in the upper GI playfield lighting due to the glare factor back at you during game play.
Your machine has many more mods than you showed. Would like to hear about the other's installed.
The video showed you putting LED's in the Creature ramp and whirlpool (individual), but are LED strip lighting in the video at the end. What did you do to make the change? How does it work with the control board?
Would recommend removing all parts on the playfield before cleaning that includes the metal lanes, star posts and posts. Clean these all separately and replace star posts as needed. Works better on a complete shop out job.
None of this is meant to be critical, but hopefully helpful.

I agree, I bought the kits in the beginning, but as you found out I too am very picky and want my own choice of LED colors to work with. I have made up my own collection of LED choices when I do a machine. Probably have too much invested do to the many different colors, but I like options!

20201201_182132 (resized).jpg

20201201_182146 (resized).jpg

To me I do use a bit of color in my GI circuits in the above playfield. Usually I use some color along with white so that I don't make rainbow puke usually matching to the playfield plastic that's above the light socket.

When I did a refurbish on this machine I also changed out the red pop bumper caps to blue and lit them as if you look at the playfield art work in that area it is a under water scene. Also the pop bumper area of the machine originally is very dark. I also added about 10+ more GI lighting in that area other than lighting the pop bumpers themselves. Here are a few pictures of my machine.

20190924_131712 (resized).jpg

20191220_174835 (resized).jpg

output-2 (resized).jpg

output-6 (resized).jpg

Sorry, but not the Creature.....I had chrome on my TZ first, but changed the shooter out to black to match the rest. Again I think either way works (looks great) as it's a personal choice.

20201030_162611 (resized).jpg

20210202_174433 (resized).jpg

Yes I have. I had to put a mod expander board on my TZ, TAF and CFTBL due to too many mods. I purchased the Mod Power Expander Board for WPC and WPC-95 Games from My Pinballs: https://mypinballs.com/ I like the way the board looks and the power source is small. I just added a 120V plugin in the cabinet so it turns on/off with the game switch.

Let me check I think I have one.

Here is my Creature with regular mirror blades.

20190924_131712 (resized).jpg

20210812_065034 (resized).jpg

I did green on the main ramp and blue on the whirlpool.

They are dimmable by an adjustment on the board itself. Have these style of LEDs on all my machine's and really like the look.

I watched a repair on a Monster Bash pit hole that had a similar hole damage as yours. It was on a video that was made from This Old Pinball (Norm and Saggy). http://www.pinrepair.com/top/
They used JB Weld. I have done this on many repairs since watching their video and it works great.

I have done this on a number of my Bally/Williams machines. PM me and I will help walk you through it if you want.

Just got back from Oregon Power Coating my CFTBL legs, cabinet side trim, lock down bar and head brackets. Had them all done in black hammered. I like this look as it makes you focus on the side art work and not what I had plated. It turned out very impressive.

20230703_135336 (resized).jpg

20230703_135343 (resized).jpg

20230703_135356 (resized).jpg

20230703_135410 (resized).jpg

Just picked up this mod. I like the addition to the machine.

IMG_0145 (resized).jpeg

IMG_0146 (resized).jpeg

IMG_0147 (resized).jpeg

Here is a link to contact him on Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1017312555443636/permalink/1614559542385598/?mibextid=W9rl1R
I contacted him through Facebook to purchase it.
It was $255.93 EUROS which included shipping.

Would you be adding the chase lights to this too?

Looks great. Question: what paint did you use and spray equipment? I am looking to pass on spray paint and move to an airless gun with water clean up paint.