(Topic ID: 79267)

CFTBL- Fans and members welcome!!!


By vilant

6 years ago



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  • 2,881 posts
  • 342 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Soulrider911
  • Topic is favorited by 182 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jgaltr56.
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#307 5 years ago

Installing a green LED undercabinet flasher and wanted to see if anyone had a suggestion on which flasher to attach it to? Or does anyone know where on the illumination board to make a connection so it flashes at the same time as any flasher?

#313 5 years ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

Anybody out there looking for a MikeD hologram mod. I have one I just received a week ago and it works great. But it is not for me so I removed it after ten games or so. $400 with new monitor takes it.Thats like getting the monitor for free.

Curious what about the mod made you change your mind?

1 week later
#326 5 years ago

Does anyone have advice on how to go about replacing or repairing the snack bar target switches? Mine are intermittent and need some work. Part number is A-16206-2 but they are not available anywhere online. I'd like to have some replacement parts on hand before I disasseble anything so if anyone knows of an alternate part number I could modify or cannibalize to make mine work it would be much appreciated.

#329 5 years ago

Alright, thanks for the tips!

#332 5 years ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Just take a paper business card in between contacts squeeze and slide card side to side

So I cleaned the contacts yesterday with a business card. Also tried to bend the contacts a little. I still can't get the ball to activate the switch. If I go into the switch test utility I can get the switches to work consistently with my finger. I read somewhere online it's possible the capacitors are bad? I thought those were diodes soldered to the switches but I'm still learning.

#336 5 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

you are correct. those are diodes (and not capacitors) soldered to the blades of the micro switches.
it's possible that you may just need to adjust the switch wire a bit so that the when the ball travels over the wire, it's moving it enough to trigger the micro switch. I would give that a try first since you stated that in the switch test mode, you're able to trigger them with your fingers.
(you should also replicate the scenario of the ball moving over the switch wire in switch test mode to see if the ball can successfully trigger the switch)

Actually these are the blade type stand up switches that have 4 upright blades of copper with some kind of insulator in the back. Please correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the way these work is it is a normally open switch that closes when pushed back to make contact with the 2nd set of copper blades? Does is need to break contact with the first shorter blade before it can "make" the second blade?

#338 5 years ago

Great info, thank you. I didn't know about that adjustment tool.

I found a good explanation on these type of switches here too

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/standup-target-switch-adjustment

I'll try again tomorrow.

1 week later
#345 5 years ago
Quoted from vilant:

Don't know the exact part# but Marco calls them hex spacers (they're out of stock for CFTBL specific). I know them as rod couplings or coupling nuts. They should be 8\32" threads inside, but first make sure what size thread it is. Then measure the overall length. Here's some sources
http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=hex%20spacer
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=77&pg=1
I would call and verify thread size from pinball life. They say 1\4" but I think that's the overall width of the nut, not the thread. Hope that helps.

I can usually find hex spacers at my local Ace Hardware. Big box stores won't have them. Digi Key and McMaster are also good places online, just be prepared to stock up so shipping isn't as painful.

1 week later
#366 5 years ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

So I cleaned the contacts yesterday with a business card. Also tried to bend the contacts a little. I still can't get the ball to activate the switch. If I go into the switch test utility I can get the switches to work consistently with my finger. I read somewhere online it's possible the capacitors are bad? I thought those were diodes soldered to the switches but I'm still learning.

So I traced the problem with the snack bar switches to a burned pin on the connector side of J206. Replaced the connector with a crimp style and fixed that problem.

Unfortunately the ColorDMD and Mikeds creature mod went dark last night while I had the guys over. That was the first time it was on for 6+ hours after installing all my mods (LED speaker panel, and MikeDs hologram mod, ColorDMD). Because it's my policy not to work on my machines under the influence I just turned it off and went to bed. I'm guessing it's a blown fuse caused by too many mods. Anyone else have this issue?

#367 5 years ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

So I traced the problem with the snack bar switches to a burned pin on the connector side of J206. Replaced the connector with a crimp style and fixed that problem.
Unfortunately the ColorDMD and Mikeds creature mod went dark last night while I had the guys over. That was the first time it was on for 6+ hours after installing all my mods (LED speaker panel, and MikeDs hologram mod, ColorDMD). Because it's my policy not to work on my machines under the influence I just turned it off and went to bed. I'm guessing it's a blown fuse caused by too many mods. Anyone else have this issue?

Definitely a fuse. I plugged the monitor into the AC service plug for now. Awaiting MikeDs AC power supply which should solve the issue for good.

#368 5 years ago

Here's mine. All tuned up and playing nicely.

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#370 5 years ago

Thanks! I was thinking of making a faux window or porthole for him...make it look like he's coming through. Originally I had it as a topper but it didn't look right and his left arm blocked the translight. Also my friends are heavy nudgers, especially after a few drinks. Didn't think it would stand up to that abuse!

#374 5 years ago

Yeah, welding it would be least expensive way to go. Not to be the welding police but it's actually a TIG weld you need for thin stainless steel. Stands for Tungsten Inert Gas. http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tig_welding

It would also not be hard for a sheet metal mechanic to duplicate a new one. Probably cost you shop minimum ($150 to $300 just a guess).

If you are a DIY kind of guy, this would be the perfect time to pick up a TIG welder from Harbor Freight and learn how to weld!

3 weeks later
#415 5 years ago

Pinsider Lllvjr sells sub output adapter kits for powered external subs.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/plug-n-play-sub-out-for-wms-wpc95-games

I use his adapters on all my WMS and Stern games, all plug and play. Better yet I have run up to 4 games on 1 Polk PSW10 sub without a problem. Just use as many female Y adapters as necessary to make the connections.

3 months later
#480 4 years ago

Didn't think that was even possible. What was the final score?

#482 4 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Actually, it's easy if you play without the glass!

Yeah, I'm an idiot.

3 months later
#549 4 years ago

Here's the speaker mod installed. Another great design by Swinks.

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6 months later
#764 4 years ago
Quoted from Wescobar:

The GI flickers during the start of multiball but other than that it's fine. Playfield inserts don't flicker noticeably unless you shoot a slow motion video. The backbox makes use of a lot of fade effects so I keep 90% incandescents there (it looks better too) The OCD boards aren't an option IMO because they apparently cause the ramp lights to stay on permanently

Which ramp specifically? I haven't noticed this.

2 weeks later
#885 4 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Tried yesterday.... couldn't do it

I need to hard plunge between the F and I to make the skill shot.

10 months later
#1182 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I did my ramp in green and the bowl in purple - have others tried different combos?
I really wish I could somehow make the ramp flash green during normal gameplay but switch to purple for multi ball!

May all your wishes come true

1 week later
#1191 3 years ago
Quoted from thewool:

May I ask where you got those bowl decals from, they look really nice.
Thanks.

Sorry, not my Creech in the video but lyonsden might know.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cftbl-fans-and-members-welcome/page/24#post-3508422

11 months later
#1749 2 years ago

LEDs in the inserts, wax, mylar to keep them from getting worse.

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