(Topic ID: 79267)

CFTBL- Fans and members welcome!!!

By vilant

10 years ago


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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jakers.
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#4580 1 year ago

Just picked up a CFTBL. It’s in pretty good condition with the exception of a few electrical issues I’m working through. Any help would be appreciated.

1: My flipper coils are both FL-11630. The manual calls for a FL-11629 on the right and a FL-15411 on the left. Any reason why someone would have installed the 11630s?

2: When I flip the flippers, the top third of the flashers in the backbox pulse. Not full on flash, but enough to notice. Is this normal?

3: I noticed the flasher was missing from under the right ramp. I installed one and it is constantly on when the game is powered on. I’m assuming a transistor issue. Also missing the “STARTLING” flashers in the backbox. I’m assuming these are tied to the right ramp as well which is why they were pulled.

I need to get all those green LEDs out of the playfield and am debating whether I want to go all incandescent or sunlight LEDs. It there any workaround to get the GI LEDs to not flicker when dimming? I know I can turn the dimming off in the settings but this game looks amazing with the dimming effects. The GI OCD messes up the spiral ramp mini LEDs right? So that is not an option.

4C373D4E-776A-44CA-AC00-F0A444BC61B2.jpeg4C373D4E-776A-44CA-AC00-F0A444BC61B2.jpeg
#4592 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

1. I suspect that's what an operator had on hand at the time. Replace with the correct FL coils as per the manual.
2. No this is not normal. J902 connector on the Fliptronics board is associated with both the flashers (some at the top of the backbox) and flipper hold coils. The manual doesn't provide details on these (from what I could find) other that on pg 3-19. Looking at my game there is also a Z connector associated with the J902 wire loom - so I would suspect an issue either on the Fliptronics board (you could swap in the Fliptronics II board from your Dracula to test) or otherwise something associated with the J902 and/or Z connector.
3. Yes sounds like a shorted transistor. https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Coil_Locks_On shows how to test Q40 TIP-102 (this is the transistor for the right ramp flasher) and yes there are 2 backbox flashers connected with the right ramp PF flasher.

Thanks.

1: The flipper coils in it now are actually less powerful than the what the manual calls for. My game plays great and the ball has no issues getting up the ramps. I’m going to leave them as is so it’s less wear and tear on the game.

2: I checked the connectors and also swapped the fliptronics board from my BSD. The issue stayed with CFTBL so I’m assuming it’s just how LED flashers in this game operate. I can live with the flashers pulsing. It’s not that big of a deal for me.

3: I haven’t got to this issue yet but I’ve replaced blown transistors in the past. I’ll get around to that when I shop out the game in a few weeks. Thanks for letting me know it’s Q40!

#4596 1 year ago

I fixed my locked on flashers by replacing Q40.

Also noticed my left pop bumper scores but doesn’t fire. Connections at the coil and connector J127-6 look good so I replaced Q50. The pop bumper still isn’t firing. What would the next step in troubleshooting?

#4597 1 year ago

I also piggybacked an extra coil I had lying around onto the non working coil. Tested and not working with that coil either.

1 week later
#4614 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Have you checked if you have 50V at the coil?
Pinwiki details how to troubleshoot this issue https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Coil_Fails_to_Work

I do have voltage at the coil. All 3 pops are tied together with the larger purple/orange stripe wire. The other 2 pops work fine so I know it’s not an issue with that wire. I already replaced the Q50 transistor which didn’t help my issue. The pop will not fire when I test the solenoid in the game menu. Is there a pre-driver associated with Q50 that could be the issue?

3 months later
#4801 1 year ago

Who has options for apron cards, besides pinballcards.com?

4 months later
#5052 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinbarclay:

I think you’re right. Unfortunately that light next to it is in the way of my adjusting the L bracket. Like my L bracket is in the wrong spot in general.
Anyone see any issue with taking out the circled bracket in this image? Not sure what its function is. But if I remove it, my ball would probably have a clear path into the tunnel. [quoted image]

That's not a light. It's just a plastic post to stop a ball from getting wedged there. Remove it, adjust your L bracket and wire-form as needed and then put the post back. Honestly, the chances of a ball getting stuck there are slim so you don't necessarily need to have that plastic post attached.

#5057 1 year ago
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

Happy St. Patrick's Day! A couple days back I ordered the L5 rom for my "new to me" Creature. I read online that one of the fixes was to fix an LED issue. Does anyone know what the LED problem was when running ver L4?
Thanks!
Chris

Where did you order the chip from?

Quoted from Gorgar1:

I believe it made the leds ghost or ghosting it’s called. My game did that but since adding L5 the problem is gone so glad I updated to L5.

Does the L5 chip stop the LED ghosting of the GI, or just the inserts?

#5061 1 year ago
Quoted from Gorgar1:

My games all LED and I have zero ghosting/Flicker so happy the chip made a huge difference. I’m in Australia so I ordered mine through Mr Pinball.

I just checked my CPU and already have the L5 ROM installed. My GI flickers like crazy until I turn off “allow dim illumination” in the settings. The inserts look great though. Looks like I’ll be purchasing a GI OCD board. The dimming in this game is too cool not to have on.

12
#5062 1 year ago

I finally got around to shopping out my Creature. When I got it, it was FULL of green LEDs. Also had a bunch of LEDs under the green star posts at the sling shots which I wasn’t a fan of. I moved those star post LEDs to the pop bumper area and also added LEDs to the pops. After a topside tear down and flame polishing the ramps, I’m loving the result.

53142044-9F7A-4AE3-9702-7EE49CB17ECF.jpeg53142044-9F7A-4AE3-9702-7EE49CB17ECF.jpeg

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#5071 1 year ago

Who here has powder coated your Creature? I'm looking for inspiration. My initial thought is black with a small amount of green and purple sparkles. Let's see those powder coated games!

1 week later
#5080 1 year ago
Quoted from fschlau:

Hi!
Anybody know were to find the 8 Lamp Board A-15672 that sits under the bowl, "out of stock" is all i see.
Only have like 3 working lamps now

Is the board bad or do you just have burned out lamps? The lamps are easily replaceable if that is the issue.

2 weeks later
#5088 12 months ago

I’m purchasing a GI OCD board so I can have smooth fading effects with my GI LEDs. The description says:

“Chase Lamp Board will remain solidly lit and would require modification to work properly.”

What do I need to do in order to get the chase lamps working correctly with the GI OCD board?

I’m using regular incandescents in the ramp and whirlpool. I’m not even sure that matters.

3 weeks later
#5129 11 months ago

Damn this game looks good in black.

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2 months later
#5228 8 months ago
Quoted from Oneironaut:

Where did you get the sign from? I like it. I want one.

Same here!

1 month later
#5316 7 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

I have a special rivet tool - the flaps generally need a good clean and then re-blued

This is exactly what I need to do with my BSD ramps and flaps. Do you have a link to the rivet tool you use, along with what type of rivets?

I can re-blue them, but riveting is new territory for me.

#5331 7 months ago
Quoted from SCRAM:

Yep, good point, except your alternative is correct...that is exactly where I was headed. Looking to replace the red bumpers with teal colour and illuminate them (thinking LED rings from cometpinball). I know it won't be as brightly lit as further down, so less likely to show up the surface, but it will still be lit. (plus was looking at this as a test area for other areas where it is more lit/noticeable)
I'm not game to go down the mylar removal route (what could possibly go wrong ), so will just see if I can at least improve it a bit.

If you're looking to brighten up the pop area, here's an option. Add LEDs inside the pops and tie them to the lightning bolt inserts so they flash when the pops fire. Clear, teal pop covers with clear bodies. You can also add some star post LED rings which in my opinion give a nice look with clear rubbers.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cftbl-fans-and-members-welcome/page/102#post-7478349

1 week later
#5364 6 months ago
Quoted from SCRAM:

Progress update...
Some before and after shots.
Good clean, Novus 2 and some carnauba wax.
Work continues
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice job on the tear down and clean. I did this to my CFTBL last year and it looked a lot like yours when I started. Now is the PERFECT time to remove that old mylar from the pop area since there's nothing in your way. It's easier than you think. Use some canned air to freeze and remove the top layer of mylar. Then rub flour into the adhesive. Then put some isopropyl alcohol on the area (not so much that it drips into the playfield holes). Let it sit for a few minutes and then start rubbing with your fingers.

It's a messy process but it works wonders.

#5376 6 months ago
Quoted from sfspanky:

What is the work around for getting the chase lamps to work with the GI OCD board? Did you get this resolved?

The whirlpool ramp lights ended up working correctly with the GIOCD board (I'm using incandescent). FYI, the fading effects on this game are sooooo much better with the GIOCD.

3 months later
#5552 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Thanks! Got the Creach downstairs into the lineup next to his Universal buddy, Dracula.
[quoted image]

I approve of your placement.

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