Mirco? Did you install it as delivered or aftermarket cleared?

Piling on here but does this offer still stand? I'd love to get a new one... thanks

Great thanks, I'm on the fence with getting a new PF or working over the OEM.

Where did you pick it up?

Before you start debugging a single switch grab the manual and test other switches in the suspected switch's row and column to make sure that you don't have a bigger switch matrix issue.

Use the switch edges test and the manual to test at least one switch that shares that switch's row and column. If other switches work than start to look at the switch itself.

The manuals (https://www.mamechannel.it/files_free/arcade_manuals_unpacked/cftbl_l4.pdf) have a section that details the connections in the backbox (on each board). There is an image with connector labels followed by listing of which are used and the associated wire colors for each pin. You can use this to match up the connectors to their proper location. Section 3 "Game Wiring and Schematics". Here's an example from the manual.
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The manual is correct, there is no spring installed on the coil plunger on CFTBL. The smaller outer spring (on the crank) is all that's required to return the flipper.

Diner (attached image) has the previous generation flippers which do use a coil plunger spring, but no smaller outer spring.

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FYI, the OEM mural that's back there is not a simple print. The leaves are Phosphorescent paint and glow under black light. The cab decals are the same. Off hand I can't recall all the parts of the game that glow under BL. I'd advise not doing anything that would harm the OEM mural if you do decide to put something else up there.

More glows on that image than I recalled. Lots of Black Light glow on a CFTBL... (Hard to get good images right now as sun is coming directly into the game room)

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Several games of that era have phosphorescent elements... I also have an AFM and T2 that have quite a bit of it.

My recollection is that's where all the effort came into play in the previous reproductions... simply trying to figure out the statue and positioning of the subject in the OEM capture. Wasn't as easy as it sounded to get the look correct.

Yea, the longer they've been in there the more stuck they seem to be. I believe there's a bit of oxidation that you have to break through to get them to start moving.

The real issue with using a screw driver to remove ROMs is resisting the urge to pry up on the chip by placing the tip of the driver on the PCB under the chip since most sockets are open in the middle. Doing so places the blade of the driver on the surface of the PCB and can cut/short the traces which run under the ROM (or any other socketed chip). This is an easy mistake as most folks will either slide the blade across the PCB or lift up on the driver while the tip is on the PCB surface in an effort to pry up on the chip. Both of these actions damage the traces.

The other issue folks have when the chip is in close proximity to other chips is they accidentally put the tip of the screwdriver under the socket and pry up the socket too.

It takes a bit of practice and a steady hand to slowly work up on the chip. I typically work the chip out by sliding the driver tip between the socket and the chip just inside the legs. Since most sockets are open in the middle, you need to apply pressure between the socket and the chip and that's going to be just behind the pins on each side. Sort of a wiggling/wedging operation that uses the inclination of the driver tip to push up on the chip and down on the socket. I work each side a little bit at a time, switching back and forth. The most difficult portion is at the end when the chip wants to tip up like a hinged lid and you can end up bending the crap out of the last few pins on both sides.

The CPU and Sound boards in a WPC game both have their "Program" stored in ROM chips. The CPU board has a single ROM chip that you change out to upgrade, Sound boards have multiple ROM chips that must be upgraded when a sound board upgrade is necessary. Open up your backbox and check it out.

Sound ROMs typically don't get upgraded -They have less updates in general and you don't always have to update them. You MAY need to update them though so it's always advisable to check what Sound ROM version is required for any CPU upgrade you perform.

WOW, that's the worst I've ever seen. Personally, this all boils down to how much work you're willing to do. I wonder what the rest of the PF looks like because it would seem that a replacement PF (used would be a step up I bet) would be the easiest solution.

If I was going to repair that, I'd pull the PF and strip it. Probably start by using a template and a router bit to cut the hole out clean. Then I'd be in there with say a 1/8" slot cutting blade and I'd start cutting in different depth stepping notches. Cutting in from the edge of the hole. I.e. cutting out the different core layers (plys). Deepest in the middle and step out shallower towards the top. Cutting these notches at least 1/2 way around the outside of the hole. I'd even cut most of the way to the back of the hole. I'd cut custom wood pieces the width of the blade and oversized for the OEM hole and glue them in. Starting with the middle lathered up with titebond and work my way out in one go. Clamp it up tight. Then you could cut in the OEM hole again and clean up the edges. If the back side needs work then perform the same a 2nd time but this time for the back.

Once you've got a clean bond you can fill any cracks, sand and seal. Then decal/paint or whatever.

I really don't see how you'd fix that any other way but I'd love to hear of other ideas.

I'd say that most of what's going on in there is that's it's just filthy and missing parts. So it probably looks more difficult than it is. It's just going to be a lot of time to tear it down and clean it up. You don't have to fix the cosmetic issues to play the game, just clean and get the mechanics up to snuff and that's relatively easy but time consuming.

As you say you've never looked inside a CFTBL I thought I'd mention that the hologram is attached to the underside of the PF. But it's also in your face if you lift the PF so you probably would have noticed that.

The mirror is supposed to be attached to the bottom of the cab on the left hand side (2 machine screws into T-nuts) by a bracket that has the motor attached. This causes the mirror to wiggle back and forth. I see the connector for the motor in your pic so I figure the whole assembly is there but not screwed down correctly. It's possible that they just unscrewed it from the bottom of the cab to use with those figurines?

Anyone know what this is and did it come from the factory attached here? I don't have one in my game and it seems odd that someone would add it zip tied to the wiring harness.

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I just assume that all the manuals have errors. I typically tear down the PF and then inventory for parts orders.

Huh... is that like supposed to be in every WPC game? Cuz I've never seen one. Of course I don't think any of my games have even come with coinboxes.

Thanks for the info on the coinboxes guys!

DaveTheTrain

I've seen worse, and worked on worse. Honestly, take lots of pictures because I would bet that it's never been taken apart and it will make reassembly so much easier. Take MORE pictures than you think you will ever need. Every time you remove a ramp or a bunch of plastics. Not just overhead pics but pics from angles/sides. Digital images are cheap and you can never have too much info on reassembly.

Don't make a final judgment on the PF until you strip it down and do a through cleaning. Unless you're going for concourse resto there's lots of ways to clean up parts of this and make it look good without breaking the bank.

Good luck and post up when you need help.

There is a "step" mode in the display test that allows you to walk one line at a time through the display. You just need to use one of the center switches to change from auto to manual step.

I've fixed several displays that have rows/columns out. It's not difficult but it takes a steady hand and some soldering skills to get it to setup correctly. Then you dab some silicon/caulk on it to hold everything in place. [edit] Assuming it's a broken flex connector!

Some pics from a previous repair job..

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Honestly, as everyone has pointed out, start with a rebuild of the flippers. Did you order flipper bushings as well? (I don't think they come with the kit) The only other thing it could be is that the flipper paddle (white part) is actually broken loose from the steel shaft.

The cabinet decals are printed with florescent inks. Matching those colors may be very difficult.

I believe stumblor made/had them at one point? I'd like to get one.

I did, he said he'd send it but it never arrived so I just assumed he got busy with life. At the time he was sending them for free so no complaints. I didn't feel pestering him over it was necessary. None the less, I'd still like to get one so if they are out there...