Quoted from littlecammi:

I have a feeling that the version under development will run into the same trigger timing issues.

Quoted from chalkup8:

gorgar1 The green looks fantastic,but if I may say , look at getting a B/W coin door.The game deserves it.

Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Hey guys, I picked up this mod in Texas over the weekend. Don't have a clue what it is or how it works or what it hooks up to other than the obvious. Anyone have this? Has anyone hooked this up before? It looks all there. I'm sure I can figure it out but it would be awesome if someone has some installation instructions they could share with me. Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from pacman11:

Upon further inspection it appears that the ramp is activated in the up position but doesn’t go up very high. During test mode I noticed the ramp raises and lowers but only raises maybe a 1/16inch. Is there a way to adjust this ramp? Maybe if someone had a picture of this area from top and bottom of playfield I might notice something.

Quoted from pacman11:

Fixed issue- from the bottom of the playfield where the solenoid is there are two screws holding the bracket to raise and lower ramp and mine was off. It can come loose and the bracket can come off. Put bracket back in place and tighten the screws down. Easy fix!
Alright I’ve had sometime to look at my Creature. For some reason the ramp doesn’t go all the way up. The lever doesn’t pull all the way forward to push the ramp up all the way. I manually pushed it forward and it clears the bottom ramp... The switch works and the solenoid works. Any thoughts? Some have a picture of this area?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from swinks:

due to a recent job loss, I have time and a few parts to do a small run of Snackbar Mods - pm if keen

Quoted from 2pupPinz:

I have a question...is this MRS to take the place of the switch at the bottom of the bowl? Is that switch known to have issues?
Thanks!

Quoted from Cherries_Jubilee:

I think you mean $269 backglass....Shipping to Australia is not part of the retail price......

Quoted from Marco1973:

Hi.
I'm searching the files to print the fuse list cart and the tech cart placed into the backbox.
The old one are really yellow.

Quoted from Marco1973:

Hi.
I and my wife (yes, she do it really with me) are restoring our creature; it's our first time, but Vid, Bryan Kelly and Matt Merfeld are really good teachers.
To do that I bougt a second creature (I know, I'm crazy) to help us because this one was really patched.
In this pin there are two "u form" round steel pieces between two holes (rounded in red) that are not present in the other pin; exactly under the flipper.
Could someone explain us why and for what are they used ?
What are the rounded steel pieces you can see over and under the playfield (rounded in green) ?
In the second pin they are not present.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Jodannar:

Swapped over the gi from cool white to warm white tonight[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from gac:

Hi Terry - I'm not following you about "rewiring inside the box." I'm suggesting just changing the expander power cord from the one provided with the loose wires on the end to one that has a regular plug (that I can plug into the service outlet in the machine rather than to a molex connector.) Sorry if I'm not understanding or stating my question clearly.

Quoted from Gorgar1:

Your right Jady nothing behind there [quoted image]

Quoted from GRB1959:

The drive-in movie theme is absolutely timeless and the artwork for this game is the best. The long curly ramp that is available only during multi-ball is one of the best ramps in pinball.
Years ago when I saw that the multi-ball is only 2 balls I was initially a little disappointed, but now after owning a Creech for 9 years I can honestly say that the 2 ball multi-ball is amazing as it allows you to trap one ball on the left flipper and then shoot the big curly ramp to maximize the playfield multiplier thanks to the MRS on the Creech bowl provided by Pinsider sonic.
Gord

Quoted from swinks:

I just installed hot pink post rubbers today and like the look of. The game is going soon so just put white rubbers as had a set stashed away. I would like to put in a set of glow but will add a set of glows to Ghostbusters.
[quoted image]
here is the hex post setup on the bowl. who is say it is correct but this should help.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Quoted from Gorgar1:

I stayed with the traditional switch as 9 or 10 Switch hits was abit much almost felt like cheating lol.

Quoted from Lysurgeon:

I'm shipping a creature from Washington state to California through Michelle Bianchi and STI. It has that giant, foam creature topper. What would be the best way to send the topper with the game without any damage to it?

Quoted from mjwilliams:

I just got Swinks’ Snack Bar mod and this thing looks phenomenal in person. I’d been wanting it for a while and jumped on it when I saw he was remaking them. Now if only I could have the same luck with the MikeD mod
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from jake35:

If you find one grab it. Changes the whole game.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Marco1973:

Could someone learn me a trick ?
If I've the two flipper coils FL-11629 and FL-11630 in the hand, without wraps ? How can I know which one is the 629 and which one is the 630 ?
I don't have to solve this problem, but I want to upgrade mi knowledge understanding the differences.

Quoted from AmishPinball:

This morning my machine worked fine. When I turn on my CFTBL this evening the speakers crackle and I get these errors and buttons have no power.
Any pointers to want could be the problem?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from AmishPinball:

I checked the cables but still got errors. I checked the fuses and ended up replacing F115, F901, and F902 and it resolved the errors.

Quoted from Ashram56:

I have one question: the right vertical ejector for letter "M" sometimes get stucks, ie the ball does not reach enough velocity to eject in the ramp and fall back in the ejector. And it does so in loop, quite annoying.
I checked the coil mechanism, and nothing seems out of the ordinary. So before I replace the coil completely, someone suggested that it might miss a small piece of rubber on top of the coil axis, where the ball sits, to increase slightly the height. Could someone send me a picture of this ejector so I can check whether it's missing on my unit ?

Quoted from PinJim:

The rebuild begins. This thing was a re-import, and I didn’t catch it until I got it home. This game has seen a lot of play...but will clean up nicely.
The backboard is damaged where the metal “lift ramp” screwed into it. Any ideas on how to fix it? Seems like wood filler would crumble.
Here’s a pic of the playfield after novus and a coat of wax. Getting there![quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from PinJim:

Thanks, I used kwikwood to fill the void. I haven’t drilled it yet for a screw, we’lol see how it holds up.
It doesn’t sand well, and it looks better in person. The game is players condition....so I’m not that concerned.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Ashram56:

May I have a pointer to this new rom, and what it's supposed to bring?
Regards

Quoted from Fifty:

Can someone elaborate on the Snack Attack bug?

Quoted from Gorgar1:

Is it just a matter of swapping chips over?

Quoted from PeterG:

So all with MikeD mod in, do not upgrade. I do not have that mod but also do not think why I should upgrade. Any reason?

Quoted from DeathHimself:

^^ 100% why you should.

Quoted from Gorgar1:

I have the Aussie LCD mod I wonder if the upgraded ROM isn’t suitable. I know the left inlane light does nothing but I wasn’t aware of the other bugs lol maybe just leave as is.

Quoted from Darkfader:

Hey guys a new Creature owner here, I just made a video on my new to me cftbl, Did some cool mods to it...please give it a watch!

Quoted from stumblor:

Planetary are the only ones that do screened decals using the factory correct colours. The neon green can't be printed. If you're not bothered about having them be 100 percent correct colour wise (and depending on where you are) I would go with pinballdecals.eu

Quoted from PinJim:

And agreed on the lack of “rainbow puke” on the Pinballbulbs kit for creech. I have their kits on my STTNG and TZ, and arguably they are “pukish”, ha ha, but I think they look great. Proud dad moment in this pic, but you can clearly see the difference between the kits.[quoted image]

Quoted from Fifty:

Install the new Creech ROM tonight. Anyone else try it?
[quoted image]
Here are the full release notes.
Creature From The Black Lagoon
Revision 5.0
1 November 2020
Credits
Changes designed and implemented by Soren Worre.
Based on the revision L-4 software released in 1992 by Williams Electronics Games Inc.
The author would like to thank the designers of this pinball machine.
Special thanks to Jesper Graver.
Summary
Broken features within the modes Multiball, Big millions, Snack attack and Move your car are fixed.
Random elements within the modes Multiball, Snack bar and Playgound can now be set to run in patterns.
Two new feature adjustments.
The never used left inlane scoring indicators now have a purpose.
Upgraded lamp procedure.
Improvements
Fully suitable for competition play.
Supports LED lamps.
No playfield indicators left for incomplete usage.
Detailed changes description
Reference to the L-4 revision.
New feature adjustment A.2 19 "Girl search".
Options:
- "Random": As rev. L-4. The girl is located at a randomly chosen Search target.
- "Pattern": The girl is always at the second Search target made. And third Search target after a jackpot (rest of game, player individual).
- "T-play": When tournament play selected: As the "Pattern" option. Else as the "Random" option.
Default: "T-play".
New feature adjustment A.2 20 "Tournament play Snack bar Unlimited millions".
Options:
- "No": When tournament play selected: The Snack bar will never award the Unlimited millions mode.
- "Yes": When tournament play selected: The Snack bar will award the Unlimited millions mode (see awards pattern).
Default: "No".
The 10B Snack attack bug, fixed.
Snack attack count down lands nicely on 10M.
255 bumper hits to light Super jackpot bug, fixed.
Bumper hits to light Super jackpot not resetting on a next multiball bug, fixed.
1x "maxed" playfield multiplier bug, fixed.
Bonus-x calculation corrected to be as indicated by the game. 1x/2x/4x/6x/8x/10x.
Bonus base value raised by a factor-3.
A bug where Move your car was not running properly after a multiball, fixed.
A bug where Snack attack was incorrectly promoted on the right ramp count-up display, fixed.
When tournament play selected: Playground award is following a fixed pattern. Player individual.
Playground award order: Unlimited millions, Jet bumpers, Intermission time and then start over.
When tournament play selected: Snack bar awards follow a fixed pattern. Player individual.
When adj. A.2 20 "Tournament play Snack bar Unlimited millions" is set to "No":
Before a multiball has been played: F, L or M letter once (if needed and in that order). Then random points ones.
After a multiball has been played: Random points ones only.
When adj. A.2 20 "Tournament play Snack bar Unlimited millions" is set to "Yes":
Before a multiball has been played: F, L or M letter once (if needed and in that order). Then random points ones.
After a multiball has been played: Unlimited millions once. Then random points ones.
When tournament play selected: Tap a button in attract mode to show the latest game scores.
The 10M, 20M and 30M indicators are brought to life.
The Big millions mode offers a one time only award on the left inlane.
10M, 20M or 30M based on timing.
A bug where the European region installs the hard pre-set on a factory reset, fixed.
The lamp matrix procedure is upgraded to better prevent "ghosting" when LED lamps are used.
Adjustment A.1 21 "Language" is limited to "English".
Adjustment A.1 28 "Min. vol override" defaults to “Yes”.
Note
The Snack bar Unlimited millions, after a multiball played, is any multiball played.
When selected, the Unlimited millions mode is victory laps for the multiball.
Snach bar random points ones are: Popcorn (1M), Hot dog (2M), Hot pretzel (4M), Ice cold pop (4M) and Hamburger (5M).
The incremented bonus base value is to compensate that the max bonus-x is reduced from the incorrect 32x to 10x.
High X bonus is by this a similar payoff. Low X bonus will get a boost.
Feature adjustement A.2 3 "Multiball" is of no use.
At least as of rev. L-4, the game is not awarding multiball at the Snack bar mystery.
The Big millions mode left inlane award is also given when the inlane is made on a ramp shot return.
In L-4, the indicators were used for light show only.
The Big millions mode is also running during Super scoring. But will end (time out) before the Super scoring umbrella mode is ending.
Sound board software
To be installed with sound board software rev. L-1.
Legal
Copyright 1992, 2020 Williams Electronics Games Inc. & Planetary Pinball Supply Inc. All Rights Reserved.
The software is provided as-is, without warranty of any kind, express or implied, including but not limited to the warranties of merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose and noninfringement. In no event shall the authors or copyright holders be liable for any claim, damages or other liability, whether in an action of contract, tort or otherwise, arising from, out of or in connection with the software or the use or other dealings in the software.

Quoted from Gorgar1:

I like hitting the Right ramp by memory 12 times then all the features are lit at the same time for a designated time

Quoted from nlrobert:

I'm about to start a restoration project on a CFTBL and I was curious if anyone has installed the green tinted playfield window instead of the clear one. I believe the green one was used on Congo, but is listed as a part for CFTBL as well. Unfortunately my Creech is missing the hologram, so I will have to find a replacement solution for the hologram at some point (I'm still looking at the available options). Since I don't have the original hologram, I was thinking having the green tinted window may make it easier to display a creature image with an alternative hologram solution.
If anyone has gone with the green window, it would be cool to see a picture of what it looks like. I couldn't find a picture of one installed by searching here or on the web. My biggest concern would be how the window decals look under the green tint versus the clear window.
Thanks!

Quoted from Gorgar1:

My LCD mod has the option to only have the creature appear like the original, all the other stuff is turned off

Quoted from MrCleanHead:

Need some advise. Earlier this year I picked up a Creech that was mine 20 years ago. Its all original, no mods. I picked up the swinks v5 mod and the magnet switch thingy for the bowl. What other mods are there that are available that I should get? Im not a big fan of clutter on the playfiled. Some "toys" look good on some games because they probably should have been there from the start. Over the years I have seen the backbox car led lights and read something about the hologram bulb but couldn't find any info on these. If anyone has a link or direction for these or any others that are tasteful that would be great. Also, comet sells a full led kit...has anyone used this kit and are you happy with it, especially the color tiny ramp bulbs.
Any help/direction would be great and appreciated. Im looking to get this out of storage in the next month or so and getting it into the line up
Thanks
Rob

Quoted from Soulrider911:

Peek at my restore in progress. Pretty proud how the seams came out. A little trick I used a black ink Pen to blackout the white edges from the decals
[quoted image]

Quoted from Ashram56:

ah crap, I would need advice (although I already made some progress, but if anyone has experience with the symptoms I have it would be nice)
My Creature is encountering multiple failures, at least partially. Sound is gone, so is Pin2DMD. Flashers/inserts/coils seem to work, at least partially.
What I checked:
- Voltage input on J501 should be 20VAC according to the schematics, straight from the transformer, I have 10V DC (!): I suppose I have something odd in my transformer ? How is it even possible to get 10V DC on a transformer 20V AC output (unless I misread my multimeter, but I checked a few times as I was super puzzled)
- Voltage output on J118 (which I use for powering Pin2DMD) should be 12V, I have zero. I have checked the fuses, they are all OK. I have yet to trace 12V generation (I suppose there is a regulator somewhere with a rectifier)
What is odd is that 20VAC failed first (ie sound was failing, so I started to look into it - I have a TiltAudio - and I noticed the TiltAudio board was not powering up, so I checked 20VAC input first, it was gone), but rest was functional. Then all of sudden 12V disappeared.
So:
- Has anyone experienced transformer failure, is this common ? I mean, to lose 20VAC is a pretty rare occurence I would think
- How is 12V generated ? I can check the schematics but if someone already has that info that would save me some time
- Would anyone has the pinout of the transformer connectors ? I can't find it in my Creech manual
Thanks and regards

Quoted from Fifty:

crazy79 That looks incredible. Hologram alternative is great as well. More details for both please.
Question for Creech owners. I'm putting the main ramp back into the game. Came across this little guy near the KISS hole. Basically the main ramp sits on it. The configuration looked weird to me. If this the way it's supposed to be installed? My thinking is the black piece should be above.
Here is the general location. It's located close the metal plate on the left side of the game.
[quoted image]
Here's the bit I'm talking about
[quoted image]
This is the exact location. The bit I'm talking about is not installed on this new ramp.
[quoted image]

Quoted from crazy79:

Laying of the 30cm UV adhesive strip at the bottom of the box in front of this base, here is the result:
Power supply 12 on the J116
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Fifty:

I don't quite understand the photo you posted. Looks like your black spacer is on top of the ramp, but your missing the nylon lock nut that holds it in place. Your post did give me an idea though. I looked through used ramps for sale on Pinside. Hard to get a clear image but here's what I found.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
It looks like the spacer is located under the ramp with the nylon lock nut. The only thing on the top side is the head of the screw. Again, it's tough to see.
[EDIT] Here are some that are clearly show the spacer on top of the ramp. To me, this makes the most sense. I mean, why even have a spacer if it's underneath not doing anything? Having it on top makes more sense, it would elevate the creature ramp. Maybe this is why I'm only getting 2 spins max out of my whirlpool.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I'm definitely going to move it. It makes no sense the way it is installed now. I wonder how long it has been this way? Such a small thing, but I think this is having an effect on gameplay.
Thanks for the help guys!

Quoted from robey99:

Not sure what they are called but does anyone sell the black cardboard flasher shades or curtain or baffle under the play field for the start film flashers? It has someone made them? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

Quoted from Soulrider911:

manny65 your in luck! I needed some for my restore as they where trashed so I modeled a few and 3d printed them. If you need some lemme know
[quoted image]

Quoted from robey99:

Before I get the comments to play better, I know and I will try. That being said, had anyone created a removable center post like the GB one. I have never seen one but curious. It might help me play better Thanks

Quoted from PinJim:

Got two? I need one too.

Quoted from Fifty:

Alright, so I mentioned this a couple times already, but here's a video of it. My 8SMD flashers are going off every time I flip the flippers or whenever a solenoid fires. It only seems to be specific flashers.
Here's a short 8 second video of the flashers that are coming on momentarily when a solenoid goes off.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/399uYzzCAwFsDAgM6
Here is a side by side comparison of the flashers that are firing (misfiring) when a solenoid goes off.
[quoted image]
Before I dive in and troubleshoot this, has anyone else run into this issue before?
Thank you!

Quoted from Fifty:

Ya, I noticed they aren't listed in the manual either. Bummer. I am thinking they are part of the special solenoids. This part of the manual was the only section that I was able to locate red-wht wiring mentioned.
[quoted image]
The AG board is disconnected right now.
The pin came with LED flashers. Unfortunately I only have #89 incandescents and I need #906 for the backbox.
The second LED flasher in 34 was not seated properly. The leads on 906 and 555 leds can be a pain in the ass sometimes. I reseated it. It is flashing now.
Test 5, 2 - Both flashers are in the backbox. Maybe these work similar to the others? I'll check the manual to see how they are run.

Quoted from Fifty:

Odd that they aren't covered in the manual. Odder that I never noticed until now.
I'll do a manual trace of the wiring tomorrow and report back. My guess is they will all go to the same Jxxx connector, but I've been wrong before.

Quoted from Fifty:

manny65 Sounds like an easy fix. I'm having trouble understanding exactly where to place the diodes, but I'm sure I'll figure it out. I'm not looking inside the backbox right now so it is hard to visualize. I guess they are just using standard 1N4001 diodes?

Quoted from Soulrider911:

Having a few games that have chrome, and I think chrome looks awesome on a creech... I must say.. gloss black is working sooo good for this theme
[quoted image]

Quoted from Soulrider911:

Debating on chrome shooter housing - to balance with the chrome on the megaphone part of the decal near the start - or go black?

Quoted from Marco1973:

It's the coil I cutted off the diode. It remains "closed" going on to pull, without stopping pulling.
JayDee you were right.

Quoted from Marco1973:

manny65 You were right. The TIP was bad. I changed power board and now functions everything or at least all the things I tested
Afret dismounting the old board I saw the previous owner made some BAD works on it, including the TIP that was bad. So, problem solved.

Quoted from Fifty:

Yes. They were probably flashing whenever the flippers were being pressed. I recently changed mine to LED and that what mine is doing. I can either change them back to incandescents or add a diode onto the each LED flasher.
Looks like you have a white 3D printed bracket in your backbox as well. I've been thinking of doing that as well.
The lamp covers (silicon caps) on your signs are incorrect. Not that it really matters. The lights should go
WHITE (top)
GREEN
YELLOW
on the two outer signs.
WHITE (top)
RED
GREEN
YELLOW
I may get people disagreeing with me on this, but as soon as you start a multiball you will realise this is the proper colour order.

Quoted from Gorgar1:

Dam that means most of my silicon covers are wrong LOL I estimate my machine was restored about 8 or 9 years ago I’m the 3rd owner since restore and it still looks awesome love this game. Just an excuse to show off my game LOL lol
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from gac:

Who says you can't have LEDs and see the colors when the pin is off?! I followed the prototype colors you referenced above.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Manny65:

I'm going to have to check mine now ... here's the flyer as a reference[quoted image]

Quoted from Gorgar1:

Thanks I’ll see if there’s any of those signs in Australia

Quoted from Fifty:

Make sure to report back after you receive it.

Quoted from Ashram56:

And it's back
My dreaded "damn ball won't exit the Slide VUK" issue
Here's a video:
I've cleaned up the sleeve, replaced the coil, checked all mechanics, and this issue appears once in a while. Sometimes it works fine for a few days, then fails on one launch, sometimes it fails consistently (as in the linked video, I had to remove the glass to catch the ball).
I'm starting to think the control circuitry is at fault. Checking on the schematics there is a control transistor, has anyone experienced a failure on a control transistor of that nature ?

Quoted from Ashram56:

I'll post pictures, but I did check the coil stop and also changed the sleeve (actually that was the first thing I did before even replacing the coil).
Can you define "mushrooming", not sure I've seen this term before
Thanks

Quoted from Ashram56:

So I checked the plunger, nothing odd (plus I don't see how mushrooming can happen on this part)
The plastic cup is fine
I took a scope shoot of the coil (this is the pin that is driven to ground when activating), as you can see no specific issue (less than one micro second, 70v - there is an attenuation of 10 on my probe otherwise I exceed the max input of the scope so the scope shoot shows 7V)
I'm puzzled.... [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Ashram56:

I've taken a oscilloscope shoot (above), and the transistor does switch. What I don't know however is the current draw, that was going to be my next step (need a current probe for my scope), and the reason why I was asking for the reference ohm resistance of the coil, if anyone has it. Should be around 3.5/3.7 ohms.

Quoted from Fifty:

Usually I just let the ball do it's own thing. If I give her a good nudge I can maybe get 3 rotations.
I have a weird screw/washer setup where the wireform meets the whirlpool. Maybe I need to invest some time in this location to get my rotations up?
[quoted image]

Leveling it L to R seems easy enough. T to B should be the same pitch as the playfield no?

Quoted from Ashram56:

I must ask... What is this MRS switch?
Also, mine only does two or three rotations max, so I'm interested into guidance to improve.
Regards

Quoted from Ashram56:

So back to basics:
- Can someone share the part number of the coil for the VUK, so I can check if mine is identical ? After all, I reordered the same coil on the basis of what was installed, it could be that a different one is needed
- Can someone take a resistance measurement at the coil ? I'm getting 3.9 Ohms, this sounds in line, but even a .5 Ohms can yield a huge difference
Thanks

Quoted from robey99:

What is the best pitch setting for Creech. 6.5? Thanks.

Quoted from Gorgar1:

My whole game has LED’s but today I noticed when I hit the flippers or the ball hits the bumpers some of the leds behind the Backglass flicker not sure if that’s always happened or just started. Anything I can do to stop this?
Thx Peter.

Quoted from Gorgar1:

Lol Brett this masterpiece ain’t going anywhere Best one in Australia I reckon lol but I’m biased. I think it’s just started and thinking about it I swapped 2 flasher LEDs on the PF to normal globes could that have caused it? OCD board no where would I source one in Aussie or do I have to give America my money again :/

Quoted from Jodannar:

Where are those apron cards from?

Quoted from Ashram56:

I must say many did not have high hopes of this mod seeing the light if the day, including me, we are proven wrong. His design is interesting, I bet he's using sound commands (he's hooked it to the ribbon cable between cpu board and sound board). In some respect, very similar in principe to what Tiltaudio could achieve, except that it's a PnP mod.
Does he provide SW update with new animated content?

Quoted from PinJim:

This past weekend, I replaced my right ramp and my whirlpool ramp. Now, when I hit the right ramp directly, the ball often “airballs”, flying off the ramp. Anyone seen this before? I got the ramps from Marco, for what that’s worth.
I know often there’s a plastic shield / cover over ramps at the transition from ramped to level to prevent airballs , but I didn’t have that before. I assume it shouldn’t have that?
[quoted image]

Quoted from Mellow:

OK I am in the club and could not be more excited and happy! At 50 I finally got my first pin and it is Creature from the Black Lagoon! It happened by chance at a cost I could not refuse and was fast enough to respond to the ad. I love working and tinkering on it. The kids all love playing it and dropped the iPads like hot potatoes, mission accomplished. Currently, it is pulled apart for a shop, new balls, all ramps, plastics and rubber is getting replaced after a real good clean and polish. My Creech hologram is dead and does not even show up. I know about the LCD screen mods but are not a fan. I feel it is distracting and takes away from the "reward" seeing the Creech when you have played to that point by having video play in the lagoon all the time plus it is not a hologram. If there is no other option then ok but there is one on the horizon...
I have my eye on the company Looking Glass to release their hologram portrait in September this year. It is affordable, is a real hologram (or as close as we are going to get), you can load your own 3D animation/video and has a built-in Raspberry Pi4.
https://lookingglassfactory.com/portrait
Anyway, I love reading the old post, all 79 pages of it. Thank you!

Quoted from Deleenhe:

For the inexperienced like me, where do folks get the artwork for reconditioned cabinets? That one looks amazing!

Quoted from Mellow:Thank you for the response.
I did think of looking at the parts list but how will I be sure what I am looking at is topside of the playing field? I see from the list a level is mentioned 1 to 6, what does that refer to?

Quoted from Deleenhe:

As I was tinkering with my machine tonight, I noticed a small (~1/2"long) metal spacer screwed to the underside of the ramp that exits at the left inlane (the "right ramp"). It is just under the swimmer sticker on the whirlpool ramp. It is just suspended in space and doesn't screw to a post or anything else (see photos). Is this correct? That ramp is supported at the entrance and at the exit but is unuspported along its entire length. Everything works great, it just seems odd. Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from JayDee:

Mine is sitting above lower ramp, not below it like yours
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from GRB1959:

Mine is also above the lower ramp.
Gord
[quoted image]

Quoted from Gorgar1:

Mine doesn’t have the screw/spacer on the ramp. The ramp is strong and doesn’t move but there is a hole on the ramp tab so maybe it wasn’t fitted. [quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Gorgar1:

Yeah it is Brett, ramp feels very solid without it though

Quoted from Gorgar1:

I have a few light boards for example the K.I.S.S board where the LEDs sometimes work and then fail i’d say because the solder needs to be re flowed. Thats out of my league lol are these boards available brand new to buy?

Quoted from nlrobert:

Hey guys,
A couple questions for the group. I'm in the middle of my CFTBL restoration project and I need some assistance and some opinions.
1. I ordered a new cabinet from Virtuapin and it arrived this week. It looks awesome, but there are no holes drilled in the lower cabinet for the backbox hinges or for the playfield support brackets. I emailed virtuapin and left a message as well, but haven't heard back yet. I have a CV cabinet from another project and I can use it as a template. However, I'm not sure if the CV cabinet is identical to the CFTBL cabinet or not. From what I've read, it seems all the WPC standard cabinets were the same, but I want to be absolutely sure before I make a template and start drilling holes. Does anyone know if the cabinets are the same?
2. I'm debating on going with mirror blades or with the back lot gameblades (the one with the classic cars). What's everyone's opinion on one over the other. I will have LED's installed, so I was thinking the mirror blades may make it really bright during game play.

Quoted from Mellow:

stumblor
The Snack Bar wear shows 0.5 mm from under the Cliffy so I decided to rebuild.

Quoted from Deleenhe:

On the subject of lighting, is there a way to achieve proper dimming of GI LEDs on this game and maintain the chase light function of the ramps? I like the brightness of the LEDs but not the flicker when it is dimming. Reading about OCD boards it seems like they will kill the chase light effect but maybe it's been solved. Thanks.

Quoted from stumblor:

I'm also doing an HD pin2dmd build (256x64) at the moment, which includes updated speaker panel and graphics. Still have two left I think on the current round.
https://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/size-matters-adventures-with-the-new-hd-pin2dmd-256x64.50621

Quoted from lowga:

TECH: We decided to replace the last stock board in our CFTBL with a brand new Rottendog A12697-1 MPU. We also replaced the back-up batteries, and did a factory reset on the game. Fired it back up, and now the game will not start. It's set up for free play, and nothing obvious is wrong. Game seems otherwise normal...but the start button doesn't light, and pressing it has no effect. Tried manually adding credits to the game (just in case.) No joy.
I'm not even sure how to begin troubleshooting this problem. Checked all the connectors and reseated them again. Still no job. Any suggestions?
Les & Abby Rayburn
Maylene, AL

Quoted from Mellow:

Just test playing my Cftbl after a full rebuild. I am getting free balls long after the "Free Pass" light has gone off. I went into settings and reset it to factory defaults with no change. Should I be looking at the switches in the ball trough?

Quoted from Mellow:

I am onto the issue.
All switches are installed and wired correctly and 3 balls are installed. I took my apron cover off to observe and can see the problem.
Normal operation:
Once a ball is lost it first goes to the outhhole kicker that pops it over a metal track incline where it lies on the other side with two other balls and then only triggers the lost ball. Then the ball shooter lane feeder will pop a ball out in the shooter lane in front of the plunger.
My scenario:
From time to time when a ball is lost the outhole kicker hits the ball so hard that it flies over the incline and pops out the end of the row ball into the shooter lane giving you a free ball and because three balls are not present a ball loss is not recorded.
The question is how do I get the outhole kicker not to kick the ball with so much force as to pop out the ball at the end?