(Topic ID: 79267)

CFTBL- Fans and members welcome!!!

By vilant

10 years ago


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  • 5,701 posts
  • 509 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 34 hours ago by gothgloom
  • Topic is favorited by 272 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Jodannar.
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#1926 6 years ago

Joined he club today. Yet to play a game, working through some board issues.
Have given her a fairly good clean topside, had 10 years of filth on it.
Had some corrosion on the logic board. Replaced chips and now just need new batteries I hope.

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2 weeks later
#1963 5 years ago

Ive just swapped over all the play field, GI and insert lighting to either colour matched, or cool white LEDS. Im debating whether i should have gone warm white in the GI. Anyone have any comparison shots of cool vs warm in their GI? Anyone swapped one for the other?

#1965 5 years ago

Thanks. Looks fine with the cools I’ve put in. But wondering if itd be better with warms. Personal preference I know but I don’t have enough warm on hand to swap it all out to compare

2 months later
#2053 5 years ago

Swapped the pops over to teal and lit them yesterday. Took longer than expected due to the rear left corner being a pita to reassemble/disassemble.

If not familiar with the machine you wouldn’t notice the change. Just wired into GI as per most pins of the period.

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1 month later
#2188 5 years ago

As in the coin return inserts? Template here to make labels http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/coindoor/coin_door_template.jpg

4 months later
#2324 5 years ago

The bulbs in my swamp orbit keep losing contact. This is much more prevalent and noticeable after swapping out to mini LEDS to add a bit of green colour to the swamp.
I have squeezed back together the contacts many times using a small tweezer or screw driver, but after 5-10 games the bulbs lose their connection again. Has anyone had a fix for this? Im not sure if you can even get the bulb sockets to refresh the board.

#2330 5 years ago

Nice idea with the tape around the leds. I feel that it’s fatigue in the spring connection that’s just wobbling loose with the ramp and sling firing over time. Fattening up the bulb bases will alleviate that so they have no more wiggle room.

#2333 5 years ago

There’s no “kit”. Lighting the pops is just installing standard pop bumper lamp holders and wiring them into the respective trigger location. If you want them constant on, piggybacking off a gi socket works.if you want flashing you need to wire to the lightning insert lamps and use resistors. Lots of guides out there in this thread and a quick google

9 months later
#2684 4 years ago

Has anyone found a good solution to cover the ugly switch and Exposed connectors on the bowl near the shooter lane?

2 weeks later
#2698 4 years ago

Well done on another great refinement to one of the best mods available

1 week later
#2725 4 years ago

Does anywhere have suggestions as to where to tap into 12v to run a led display? Creature is pretty full on power consumption. JI38-141 a logical spot?

#2732 4 years ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Does anywhere have suggestions as to where to tap into 12v to run a led display? Creature is pretty full on power consumption. JI38-141 a logical spot?

Correction. J116, 117, 118 all seem to be 12v DC

#2734 4 years ago

Yeah they are already fully loaded so I think external power supply will be the way to go

#2737 4 years ago

That’s the plan. Tap in a small psu after the power switch and then tap anything that’s needed off of it

3 months later
#2843 4 years ago

Swapped over the gi from cool white to warm white tonight

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#2849 4 years ago

I have a no dimming rom, also you can disable to go dimming in the adjustments menu. Leds will flicker during any dimming sequence as the dimming on these machines is handled by pulsing on/off

2 months later
#3027 3 years ago

Do you have the fading set for the gi? That will cause flickering in almost alL leds, anti ghost or otherwise. Try turning of gi fade and power saving in the settings and see if it still occurs.

8 months later
#3701 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Yes. They were probably flashing whenever the flippers were being pressed. I recently changed mine to LED and that what mine is doing. I can either change them back to incandescents or add a diode onto the each LED flasher.
Looks like you have a white 3D printed bracket in your backbox as well. I've been thinking of doing that as well.
The lamp covers (silicon caps) on your signs are incorrect. Not that it really matters. The lights should go
WHITE (top)
GREEN
YELLOW
on the two outer signs.
WHITE (top)
RED
GREEN
YELLOW
I may get people disagreeing with me on this, but as soon as you start a multiball you will realise this is the proper colour order.

Can you explain the colour order reasons?

2 months later
#3890 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

anyone need a new bakcboard baffle? I have a spare that I printed off. lemme know!
Cheers
[quoted image]

Where are those apron cards from?

5 months later
#4210 2 years ago

Ooh thanks very much slippi I’ll have to download and give it a go

#4212 2 years ago

Update: uploaded and looking great. Noticeable from the power on and start up. Fingers crossed the combo bonus animations fixed where the colour dragged behind the car frames …. And it is. Awesome work. Thankyou

#4235 2 years ago

I’m running it on the rev5 rom and haven’t noticed any issues so far. That said my games have been short as I’ve been watching the animations

6 months later
#4506 1 year ago

These are the ones from wizard mods but I believe they are no longer available

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1 month later
#4539 1 year ago

I put lighting into my pop bumpers, I just connected to the gi so they were static. You can see photos of my machine above a bit in the thread.

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