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(Topic ID: 79267)

CFTBL- Fans and members welcome!!!


By vilant

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,330 posts
  • 365 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by swinks
  • Topic is favorited by 206 Pinsiders

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#1926 2 years ago

Joined he club today. Yet to play a game, working through some board issues.
Have given her a fairly good clean topside, had 10 years of filth on it.
Had some corrosion on the logic board. Replaced chips and now just need new batteries I hope.

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2 weeks later
#1963 2 years ago

Ive just swapped over all the play field, GI and insert lighting to either colour matched, or cool white LEDS. Im debating whether i should have gone warm white in the GI. Anyone have any comparison shots of cool vs warm in their GI? Anyone swapped one for the other?

#1965 2 years ago

Thanks. Looks fine with the cools I’ve put in. But wondering if itd be better with warms. Personal preference I know but I don’t have enough warm on hand to swap it all out to compare

2 months later
#2053 2 years ago

Swapped the pops over to teal and lit them yesterday. Took longer than expected due to the rear left corner being a pita to reassemble/disassemble.

If not familiar with the machine you wouldn’t notice the change. Just wired into GI as per most pins of the period.

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1 month later
#2188 2 years ago

As in the coin return inserts? Template here to make labels http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/coindoor/coin_door_template.jpg

4 months later
#2324 1 year ago

The bulbs in my swamp orbit keep losing contact. This is much more prevalent and noticeable after swapping out to mini LEDS to add a bit of green colour to the swamp.
I have squeezed back together the contacts many times using a small tweezer or screw driver, but after 5-10 games the bulbs lose their connection again. Has anyone had a fix for this? Im not sure if you can even get the bulb sockets to refresh the board.

#2330 1 year ago

Nice idea with the tape around the leds. I feel that it’s fatigue in the spring connection that’s just wobbling loose with the ramp and sling firing over time. Fattening up the bulb bases will alleviate that so they have no more wiggle room.

#2333 1 year ago

There’s no “kit”. Lighting the pops is just installing standard pop bumper lamp holders and wiring them into the respective trigger location. If you want them constant on, piggybacking off a gi socket works.if you want flashing you need to wire to the lightning insert lamps and use resistors. Lots of guides out there in this thread and a quick google

9 months later
#2684 1 year ago

Has anyone found a good solution to cover the ugly switch and Exposed connectors on the bowl near the shooter lane?

2 weeks later
#2698 1 year ago

Well done on another great refinement to one of the best mods available

1 week later
#2725 1 year ago

Does anywhere have suggestions as to where to tap into 12v to run a led display? Creature is pretty full on power consumption. JI38-141 a logical spot?

#2732 12 months ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Does anywhere have suggestions as to where to tap into 12v to run a led display? Creature is pretty full on power consumption. JI38-141 a logical spot?

Correction. J116, 117, 118 all seem to be 12v DC

#2734 12 months ago

Yeah they are already fully loaded so I think external power supply will be the way to go

#2737 12 months ago

That’s the plan. Tap in a small psu after the power switch and then tap anything that’s needed off of it

3 months later
#2843 8 months ago

Swapped over the gi from cool white to warm white tonight

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#2849 8 months ago

I have a no dimming rom, also you can disable to go dimming in the adjustments menu. Leds will flicker during any dimming sequence as the dimming on these machines is handled by pulsing on/off

2 months later
#3027 6 months ago

Do you have the fading set for the gi? That will cause flickering in almost alL leds, anti ghost or otherwise. Try turning of gi fade and power saving in the settings and see if it still occurs.

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