(Topic ID: 79267)

CFTBL- Fans and members welcome!!!

By vilant

10 years ago


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There are 5,672 posts in this topic. You are on page 98 of 114.
#4851 1 year ago
Quoted from bakerhillpins:

Anyone know what this is and did it come from the factory attached here? I don't have one in my game and it seems odd that someone would add it zip tied to the wiring harness.[quoted image]

It’s the hasp to hold down coin box.

#4852 1 year ago

.

#4853 1 year ago
Quoted from dmacy:

It’s the hasp to hold down coin box.

Huh... is that like supposed to be in every WPC game? Cuz I've never seen one. Of course I don't think any of my games have even come with coinboxes.

#4854 1 year ago
Quoted from bakerhillpins:

Huh... is that like supposed to be in every WPC game? Cuz I've never seen one. Of course I don't think any of my games have even come with coinboxes.

It’s on the plastic ones. I think they may the imported machines?

#4855 1 year ago

Has anyone completed their CFTBL playfield swap and thus have a playfield available for a retheme project?

#4856 1 year ago
Quoted from dmacy:

It’s on the plastic ones. I think they may the imported machines?

3DFFA96E-6940-43DB-BBCE-CB31B5F94AC3 (resized).jpeg3DFFA96E-6940-43DB-BBCE-CB31B5F94AC3 (resized).jpeg
#4857 1 year ago
Quoted from dmacy:

[quoted image]

Mine is a German reimport fwiw.

#4858 1 year ago
Quoted from bakerhillpins:

Huh... is that like supposed to be in every WPC game? Cuz I've never seen one. Of course I don't think any of my games have even come with coinboxes.

Quoted from dmacy:

It’s on the plastic ones. I think they may the imported machines?

As far as I can recall, it was an option - when you ordered from your distributor, you could add an option for a 'locking coinbox' - that's what you got. You could also order the 'kit' later, and install it yourself.

#4859 1 year ago

Thanks for the info on the coinboxes guys!

#4860 1 year ago

Ok so here she is. .

There appears to be some mylar on the snack bar target area which is lifting and bringing the milkshake with it.

The hologram mechs all work but they'd been unplugged with a led lamp wired into the hologram lamp by sticking two bare wires into the molex. This was illuminating a superglued creech model. There's so much duct tape.

I don't know how games get into this state. It's sad

The other half is over the moon, shes always wanted a creech and even though it's so dirty it's sticky and the rubbers have perished she's having the time of her life!

Long journey ahead though! It's hard to know where to start .

The mylar lifting and the kiss inserts are what worry me the most .

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#4861 1 year ago

@ DaveTheTrain,

Sorry to interject this downer of a note, but I'm getting closer to a decision at the opposite end of the scale. I've had my CFTBL for several years now, and it is in uncommonly good condition in most every department and working very well, but playing it is a source of seemingly endless frustration, and I'll probably be looking to sell it sometime in 2023. I was apparently better at playing it some time ago, but these days my results on it mostly suck. It is a major Drain Monster of its time. I've gotten so very tired of watching and hearing "FOCUS !" I knew another Creech owner who got so tired of this that he actually taped off the Outlanes -- which is decidedly Not Cricket ! I don't approve of his drastic measures, but I now understand. Instead, I've set mine as a 5-ball game, with otherwise liberal settings, including Replay Level One at 100 Mil., which is half the factory setting. But still No Joy, even though I probably earn an extra ball about 1 game out of every 4 or 5. A Jackpot hit is VERY rare for me, and I can't even get to this 100 Mil. level with a 6-ball game, except very rarely. I own some pins that thwart me every bit as much in terms of degree of success in playing them, yet they *still* manage to keep me coming back for more, time after time. Three games worth of Creech in a day and I'm done ! (Not playing it every day, either.) Intangibles ? The challenges from those OTHER pins are in my judgement comparable, though the enjoyment factor most certainly is not. And WHY keep a game if you're not enjoying it ?! The hologram was one of those unique features people remember, not visited again in pins -- so far as I know -- until the mini-projection one in GB. But it's not enough of an offset for me, nor as a collector. And I can think of a number of games that I'd much rather have.

If anyone reading this is interested, I'm much more inclined to sell it locally (or regionally), but otherwise not until Spring weather is solidly in place. Never mind full insurance: I don't believe in shipping games while there is snow or ice anywhere along the route. (This has definitely cost me in the past, in losing out on games that I could have purchased, during the Winter months.) The added uncertainty is just not worth the risk to me. You can Google footage of a big rig tumbling over the side of an overpass on the 14 freeway north of L.A. recently and bursting into flame, if you need any illustration of my position on this. THAT was merely in a rainstorm -- no snow or ice required !

Nevertheless, best of luck to you on your restoration project. Hope it all turns out splendidly, and that you derive a lot of enjoyment from the results.

#4862 1 year ago

DaveTheTrain

I've seen worse, and worked on worse. Honestly, take lots of pictures because I would bet that it's never been taken apart and it will make reassembly so much easier. Take MORE pictures than you think you will ever need. Every time you remove a ramp or a bunch of plastics. Not just overhead pics but pics from angles/sides. Digital images are cheap and you can never have too much info on reassembly.

Don't make a final judgment on the PF until you strip it down and do a through cleaning. Unless you're going for concourse resto there's lots of ways to clean up parts of this and make it look good without breaking the bank.

Good luck and post up when you need help.

#4863 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Ok so here she is. .
There appears to be some mylar on the snack bar target area which is lifting and bringing the milkshake with it.
The hologram mechs all work but they'd been unplugged with a led lamp wired into the hologram lamp by sticking two bare wires into the molex. This was illuminating a superglued creech model. There's so much duct tape.
I don't know how games get into this state. It's sad
The other half is over the moon, shes always wanted a creech and even though it's so dirty it's sticky and the rubbers have perished she's having the time of her life!
Long journey ahead though! It's hard to know where to start .
The mylar lifting and the kiss inserts are what worry me the most .[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hi @davethetrain,

The following URL contains insert decals that are currently available for CFTBL.

https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/decals/decals-insert/creature-from-the-black-lagoon-insert-decal-set/

Gord

#4864 1 year ago

Hi DaveTheTrain

it will be amazing how much of a difference a good clean, rubbers and posts will make.

also the credit dot can occur if the lift ramp has not been achieved within a number of games - think it is around 20 games - you trigger that switch and the dot may go.

#4865 1 year ago

Heretic_9,

CFTBL kicks my ass as well. I'm trying to spend a little time each day practicing to get better but I also get a ton of SDTM. I need to work on my nudging skills but I swear the clear coated playfield on mine makes it harder to move the ball. Or maybe I just suck

#4866 1 year ago
Quoted from shepP:

Heretic_9,
CFTBL kicks my ass as well. I'm trying to spend a little time each day practicing to get better but I also get a ton of SDTM. I need to work on my nudging skills but I swear the clear coated playfield on mine makes it harder to move the ball. Or maybe I just suck

It’s amazing how different machines will play to each other. I haven’t done any dialling in and don’t possess any nudging skills, yet can put up 1-3B on my machine. That said when I play other Creeches they’ll kick my arse. It’s definitely a fun game to master and so rewarding when you put up a big score - enjoy the journey!

#4867 1 year ago

Cheers all!

Credit dot was time and date not set. The batteries were off the board but duct taped into the holder which was then screwed into the bottom of the backbox. So they hadn't been changed in at least 5 years.

20221223_234804 (resized).jpg20221223_234804 (resized).jpg

Topside is nearly clear!
Done a bit of cleaning and I found around the flippers and the lagoon window is very sticky. It's as if there's a residue there.
Did this game ship with mylar or have mylar available as it really feels like it had it at one point and was removed - badly!
Might also explain the kiss inserts being gone.

A pic of the sticky residue..
20221223_233336 (resized).jpg20221223_233336 (resized).jpg

There were random bits of mylar I'd find, like a tiny uneven square as if it was somehow left behind.
There was also small mylar patches where the ball drops on the inlane and the mylar straddles the switch slot, although one of these was wonky and going into the slot! They peeled off with no trouble at all.
20221223_221644 (resized).jpg20221223_221644 (resized).jpg20221223_234837 (resized).jpg20221223_234837 (resized).jpg

There's some mylar near the snackbar targets with a bit lifting on the milkshake one but the rest look fine. I think I'll leave this as his hand is attached to the mylar
20221223_234828 (resized).jpg20221223_234828 (resized).jpg

One of the hex posts holding the whirlpool up was broken, it was just resting on the inlane guide.

20221223_170435~3 (resized).jpg20221223_170435~3 (resized).jpg
Part no 02-4643-3
Manual says F-F but it's M-F and 3 1/4"
Seems to be unobtainium?

#4869 1 year ago

I want to ask, is there any new firmware that adds new multiballs and more fun to the game?

#4870 1 year ago
Quoted from ababapanos:

I want to ask, is there any new firmware that adds new multiballs and more fun to the game?

Unfortunatelly not. There is an updated official version (5.0) from Soren. More info on it here: https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-CFTBL-REV5

#4871 1 year ago

Were all Creech's Diamond Plate? Ours doesn't have a logo on it and it's got a lot of mylar (most had been removed hence some inserts being gone.

The hand of the milkshake guy is stuck to mylar and it's curling up

20221225_000926 (resized).jpg20221225_000926 (resized).jpg
#4872 1 year ago

Hey all. I've got people coming over today so of course creature started acting up. The right VUK above the right sling keeps firing when a game is started . It fires as soon as the game is powered on as well . I can't figure out what it causing it. Any ideas ?

#4873 1 year ago

I have with version 4 . do you think it's worth buying the 5?

#4874 1 year ago
Quoted from AJC3030:

Hey all. I've got people coming over today so of course creature started acting up. The right VUK above the right sling keeps firing when a game is started . It fires as soon as the game is powered on as well . I can't figure out what it causing it. Any ideas ?

Go into switch test mode and check if sw#37 is stuck on. It's an opto switch, so possibly the LED opto has failed and consequently the game believes there is a ball in the VUK blocking the LED from being detected by the opto receiver

#4875 1 year ago
Quoted from AJC3030:

Hey all. I've got people coming over today so of course creature started acting up. The right VUK above the right sling keeps firing when a game is started . It fires as soon as the game is powered on as well . I can't figure out what it causing it. Any ideas ?

lift the playfield and check the wires to the soleniod as they get close to the shooter rod when you lift the playfield up and out and can tug the wires

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#4876 1 year ago
Quoted from swinks:

lift the playfield and check the wires to the soleniod as they get close to the shooter rod when you lift the playfield up and out and can tug the wires

+2. Literally had this same thing happen during a party.

#4877 1 year ago
Quoted from dmacy:

+2. Literally had this same thing happen during a party.

yes, I experienced this as well

#4878 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Ok so here she is. .
There appears to be some mylar on the snack bar target area which is lifting and bringing the milkshake with it.
The hologram mechs all work but they'd been unplugged with a led lamp wired into the hologram lamp by sticking two bare wires into the molex. This was illuminating a superglued creech model. There's so much duct tape.
I don't know how games get into this state. It's sad
The other half is over the moon, shes always wanted a creech and even though it's so dirty it's sticky and the rubbers have perished she's having the time of her life!
Long journey ahead though! It's hard to know where to start .
The mylar lifting and the kiss inserts are what worry me the most .[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I second the use of insert decals/stickers to fix the kiss inserts. I had to use some on my Elvira and the Party Monsters repair/restore for the lane rollovers and they worked great. Looked and lit up just like factory. Simple to install since they’re basically just a sticker.

#4879 1 year ago
Quoted from ababapanos:

I have with version 4 . do you think it's worth buying the 5?

Yes, absolutelly. It fixes some really annoying bugs.

#4880 1 year ago
Quoted from DakotaMike:

I second the use of insert decals/stickers to fix the kiss inserts. I had to use some on my Elvira and the Party Monsters repair/restore for the lane rollovers and they worked great. Looked and lit up just like factory. Simple to install since they’re basically just a sticker.

You didn't mylar or clear over them?

This issue has recently become apparent, the mylar was lifting after a previous owner must have tried removing then gave up when he got here.
20221226_151101 (resized).jpg20221226_151101 (resized).jpg

I'm unsure whether to just cut it out with a craft knife and fill the missing parts with a decal. Just worry the decal might not match that piece of pink.

#4881 1 year ago
Quoted from shepP:

Heretic_9,
CFTBL kicks my ass as well. I'm trying to spend a little time each day practicing to get better but I also get a ton of SDTM. I need to work on my nudging skills but I swear the clear coated playfield on mine makes it harder to move the ball. Or maybe I just suck

Just had Cliffy + Mantis installed for the KISS hole, having previously had that done a week or more ago for the Snack Bar hole. Maybe this will be just throwing good money after bad, in view of how I feel about the game overall, but I already had the parts. Maybe it would be a plus for resale, don't know about that really. While this was underway, I had my tech reposition the outlane posts to their "most liberal", but already-on-the-pf hole positions, as opposed to the standard (least favorable) ones. This in theory should narrow the outlane drain prospects, which ran about 65 / 35 vs. the SDTM ones. And that should still be kosher, since Bally provided it as an option in the manufacture. It remains to be seen whether or not this will alter the "sucks at playing this" factor to any meaningful degree, but -- Who Knows ? -- perhaps it holds some potential for impacting my decision on getting rid of this pin.

#4882 1 year ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

OK, so I'm fixing up a Creech which is a well-routed old trooper.
Here is the state of the Snack Bar Scoop Hole.
Any advice as to fixing this back up as well as I can?
Planning to install Mantis or Cliffy over it but obviously need to fix the hole up first.
Thanks,
RussMyers
[quoted image]

Regarding hole or scoop wood damage, something game owners might not have thought of, and not just for CFTBL: in many cases this is difficult to assess, because it is hidden from view, due to ramps or other parts above that would have to be removed in order to gain a decent view. (Or lifting the pf up, to see it from the other side.) For those situations, go to CVS or Walgreens and pick up a dental mirror. That should reach small, inaccessible places, often revealing what you wanted to see -- a useful addition to the pinball tools set. Not in every case though, such as the KISS hole, which has longer, curved pf parts above.

#4883 1 year ago
Quoted from swinks:

lift the playfield and check the wires to the soleniod as they get close to the shooter rod when you lift the playfield up and out and can tug the wires

Thank's for the advice. After checking through everything nothing seemed out of place or disconnected. However no on startup the test report says to check the ice cream switch . Even after checking that it seems fine.not sure if the 2 would be related anyway

#4884 1 year ago

1st OPEN Sign Mod arrived to an Aussie Tester (1 of 4) and he was happy with the design, 10 minute install without instructions, nice colour intensity and definitely shows when the Snackbar is open.

IMG_20221229_164347_198 (resized).jpgIMG_20221229_164347_198 (resized).jpgIMG_20221229_170349_713 (resized).jpgIMG_20221229_170349_713 (resized).jpgIMG_20221229_170404_780 (resized).jpgIMG_20221229_170404_780 (resized).jpg
#4885 1 year ago

Okay, get ready for a slew of help posts over the next few days. My creature when turned off resets to factory settings and after a game or two the flippers stop working. Batteries are good. I can press the buttons and they might wiggle but won't full flip. Also, sometimes the sound stops working. It's a pinsound board. The game previously worked fine, but has lots or mods (lights, sound, color dmd, etc). I have the color dmd running on a separate power supply, albeit its electricity is coming from the outlet in the cabinet and I unplugged the whirlpool aftermarket board to reduce draw. Any starting tips would be greatly appreciated!

#4886 1 year ago
Quoted from bobwiley:

Okay, get ready for a slew of help posts over the next few days. My creature when turned off resets to factory settings and after a game or two the flippers stop working. Batteries are good. I can press the buttons and they might wiggle but won't full flip. Also, sometimes the sound stops working. It's a pinsound board. The game previously worked fine, but has lots or mods (lights, sound, color dmd, etc). I have the color dmd running on a separate power supply, albeit its electricity is coming from the outlet in the cabinet and I unplugged the whirlpool aftermarket board to reduce draw. Any starting tips would be greatly appreciated!

Use a DMM to measure the voltage the battery pack is providing into the board - should be 4.5V? Possibly a faulty or corroded connection.

When the flippers stop working, what voltage do you have at the flipper coils (all the coil tabs should have the same voltage) - should be 50-75V?

#4887 1 year ago

OK, I am installing this TV mod from Cointaker into a CFTBL for a buddy.

I REALLY don't want to use the two alligator clips supplied with it to attach it to the voltage test points on the power board.

It seems like an Elmer Fudd way to get power for this.

Is there an alternate way to install this?

RM

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#4888 1 year ago
Quoted from Gorgar1:

I have the Australian LCD mod in mine and it works fine with the version 5 rom just lucky I suppose.

Would like to see more info about this alternative Creature display, provided that (unlike the MikeD mod) it may still be available.

#4889 1 year ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

Would like to see more info about this alternative Creature display, provided that (unlike the MikeD mod) it may still be available.

Gorgar's alternative Creature Display ran very similar to MikeD but was is an Australian creation and coincidentally released around the same time as MikeD's first run and then the creator Daniel did a few other mods (which I helped him with 2 of them) and then he stepped away from pinball.

#4890 1 year ago

Yep had all versions now over the years.

The only one down under now is just a screen on video loop not interactive and being pushed for stupid price from pinball haus.

#4891 1 year ago
Quoted from swinks:

Gorgar's alternative Creature Display ran very similar to MikeD but was is an Australian creation and coincidentally released around the same time as MikeD's first run and then the creator Daniel did a few other mods (which I helped him with 2 of them) and then he stepped away from pinball.

Not quite sure how one "steps away from pinball" ? It's definitely a calling, perhaps even an addiction . . . .

#4892 1 year ago

I've just spent the last 3 days working on my Creech pinsound changes. There really is something about this game for me, I can't quite explain it in words but it's just so enjoyable to me all round. So happy I have one in my collection. Thanks to everyone involved who had anything to do with making this pin!

The sound file structure is honestly the most challenging I've worked with the way alot of files are and aren't used, it's been a real challenge but I'm loving it more than usual for some reason... must be all the 50s music!
I'll try and upload a new YouTube video today if I finish my mix to a point I'm happy with. This is the machine that started my pinsound journey many years ago...and still tweaking!

IMG_20230101_110639_01 (resized).jpgIMG_20230101_110639_01 (resized).jpgIMG_20230101_110647_01 (resized).jpgIMG_20230101_110647_01 (resized).jpgIMG_20230101_110742_01 (resized).jpgIMG_20230101_110742_01 (resized).jpg
#4893 1 year ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

Not quite sure how one "steps away from pinball" ? It's definitely a calling, perhaps even an addiction . . . .

other things happen and are more important than pinball

these 2 mods I designed components for back in 2015 with Daniel never went into production as well, sadly
Pin Menu Controller (resized).jpgPin Menu Controller (resized).jpgStern - Simpsons - Nuclear Conditions Display (resized).jpgStern - Simpsons - Nuclear Conditions Display (resized).jpg

#4894 1 year ago

Im at a loss how do I find out what is causing this? I don’t have a manual.

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#4895 1 year ago

Go on to Ipdb and download the manual as a start.

#4896 1 year ago
Quoted from Lopa:

How do I find out what is causing this?

Your ground short was obviously caused by having an artblade on one side only and none on the other side.

#4897 1 year ago
Quoted from Lopa:

Im at a loss how do I find out what is causing this? I don’t have a manual.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Ground shorts are often caused by a failed LM339 chip, so I'd suspect either the CPU board or the Opto Ramp Switch board.

I'd firstly verify the CPU board is functioning correctly (use the technique described here https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Switch_Matrix_Problems), if the CPU tests out ok I'd then disconnect the Opto Ramp Switch Board (A-13901-1) and see if the problem disappears.

#4898 1 year ago
Quoted from Lopa:

[quoted image]GROUND SHORT ROW 4

[quoted image]GROUND SHORT ROW 7

Quoted from Manny65:

Ground shorts are often caused by a failed LM339 chip, so I'd suspect either the CPU board or the Opto Ramp Switch board.

cftbl_opto_ramp_switch_board.jpgcftbl_opto_ramp_switch_board.jpg

You can disconnect J1 from the board and the short(s) should go away.

#4899 1 year ago

When upgrading to LEDs what do folks do with the above playfield lights on the signs? The ones that traditionally used condoms?

Looking for some inspiration!

#4900 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

When upgrading to LEDs what do folks do with the above playfield lights on the signs? The ones that traditionally used condoms?
Looking for some inspiration!

Mine used to ghost but since adding the version 5 rom no more ghosting

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