Do you have the MRS (Magnetic Reed Swtich) from Sonic installed or are you trying to cover the original microswitch. The MRS is so small I didn't see the need for a cover (see below) although you still see the connector for the lights on the bowl. I'm not sure the Swinks cover will work on top of the microswitch as it looks like it needs to fit flush with the top of the bowl where the microswitch would mount.

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Looking to buy a mega menu insert decal from someone who bought a whole set but didn't need that one. Trying to avoid buying the whole set when I only need the one insert decal. Thanks.

Mike

And the new version is half that size!!

Matt
M&M Creations

Sonic wait, new version, say it ain't so...

Yep....it's much smaller.....in fact all of our bowl MRS' are the same, smaller size now....

Matt

Oh, that looks like exactly the route I should go, sweet! Where can I pick up a new reed switch Matt?

nwpinball

I have made the cover for the bowl switch holes for free download and print yourself - please no on-selling
https://www.shapeways.com/product/ZHPRRKHSF/cftbl-pinball-whirlpool-bowl-cover-for-mrs-switch

all the free download parts can be found here
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksdownload&sort=newest

This cover works if you want to keep the microswitch.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/X4RUPLVBA/cftbl-pinball-whirlpool-bowl-cover-fo-micro-switch?optionId=170331602&li=marketplace

Just when you think you got it all working 100%... The switch at the end of the center lane on my Creature from the Black Lagoon that mainly gives the "Move your Car" reward and also an extra ball when lit. This switch does not register in-game, by the ball, or by hand though in switch edge test mode it works every time by ball or hand so the switch is not bad. How is this possible? Is this an electronic issue? I do have on my power driver board connectors J115 (general illumination) and J120 burnt connectors that are slated for header and connector replacement. So what is going on here?

I know the 10 20 30 million lights aren’t coded in but does anyone know how they intended to use them in the game and why they didn’t. Thx.

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These lights are coded in on the upgraded ROM.

Details can be found here.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-williams-and-bally-software-upgrades#post-5967032

Grab v5.0 rom from RTBB or MrPinball

Cheers guys I’ve ordered the rom

Hi all, just joined the club yesterday and we’re stoked. The game was routed then put into a warehouse about 5 years ago and has sat since. It’s dark and dirty but should clean up nicely. So far I’ve owned a RS and ToM and I have a question about this one. When I open the coin door and go into switch test, the coils fire as they should during gameplay. For example I can activate the flippers using the buttons and I can fire the slingshot coils by pressing the leaf switches etc. When I exit switch test I no longer can. Is this normal behavior? Thanks guys!

Unfortunately, the LED support feature in this ROM breaks the MikeD hologram mod that many of us have. HOWEVER, just today soren posted that if he had a MikeD mod to work with, he'd take a stab at making a hardware mod that would fix the incompatibility. Details here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-williams-and-bally-software-upgrades/page/15#post-6813929

So, is there anyone who would take a crack at this or loan soren a MikeD mod so all the Creature machines out there can run the new ROM? Please?

My flippers are active once I go into the service menu - I didn't test the rest any other coils but suspect they would be as well. When you exit the service menu, the flippers no longer activate (assuming you aren't in the middle of a game).

Yes, this is normal. It always scares the crap out of me when I'm working under the playfield with the power on and accidentally bump the flipper button.

Awesome, thank you. My two previous games had the high power cutoff when the coin door opened. I’ll have to get used to it!

I’ve got an Aussie LCD mod so I suppose once I add my new rom I loose my LCD mod to! Oh well see what happens.

In my case, the new ROM smoothed out the LEDs, and eliminated a ton of ghosting/flickering and saved me from having to purchase an LED OCD board. I put that money into a GI OCD instead. I suggest you try the ROM and then decide.

I’d be willing to loan out my miked creature mod. I would just need to know what and where to send. If someone can pm me and let me know. Happy to help.

Awesome. Try replying to @soren's post and offer him the use of your MikeD mod. Hopefully he'll respond and take you up on the offer. Finger's crossed. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-williams-and-bally-software-upgrades/page/15#post-6813929

Hey guys, people are mentioning about the updated ROM for creech. Ive never upgraded a ROM before. Is it basically just pulling out the original chip and pushing this new one in? Sorry for a stupid question. I tried to see if there was a video on doing this with creech but didnt see one.

In swapping the game ROM, does it force a restore of the factory settings or are your settings and high scores still maintained (given they are held on the RAM chip which is powered by the battery while the game is turned off)?

I am using the v5 ROM with the Mike D mod and it seems to be working normally. What behaviour are others seeing?

Im also, wondering about this. I had a MikeD mod in storage for years and just installed it but wanted to upgrade the ROM. Does it do damage to the MikeD mod or does it make the mod not work? Also, I think I have an original ROM.....if the version 5 rom isnt compatible with the mikeD mod could I at least upgrade to a version 4 ROM?

When I replaced my CFTBL ROM chip all of my high scores and settings were lost. The same thing happened to me on every B/W game when I replaced the ROM chip. You will need to reset any game settings that were stored on the old ROM chip.

Gord

You can also use a small flat blade screwdriver and very carefully wedge it under the chip on one of the short sides (sides without pins) and gently lift up on the ROM chip to lift it out of its socket. This is the method I have always used and it works very well.

Make sure that you orient the new ROM chip correctly by lining up the notch on the chip to the notch on the socket. I have attached a photo of my new TOM ROM chip to illustrate the point.

Gord

ROM_Chip_Orientation (resized).jpg

That's encouraging to hear. I've held off on putting in the v5 ROM because several others have reported their MikeD mod gets confused by the new LED support scheme. The programmer confirmed why this would be happening. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-williams-and-bally-software-upgrades/page/4#post-5977716

I'm hesitant to try it out for fear of screwing something up, especially if a fix is possible. If other people have given it a go, I'd love to hear what their experience was.

Pretty much. Just be cautious. Take your time. Make sure it is oriented the correct way and make sure the pins are aligned when you push in gently. Slower is better.

The game will default to factory settings. I believe you will lose your high scores. Even if you don't, you should reset them as the gameplay will change slightly and there will be a few new options in the menu system.

Hi Creature lovers - I've got one of the Bally CFTBL 3D promo plastic figures, which I'd like to give to one of you. Here's the deal:

1) Whoever pm's me before midnight EST Wednesday goes into a drawing with the other 3 or 300 contestants.
2) Winner must have a U.S. mailing address.
3) Winner pays the shipping cost with a check (just like Pinball Resource!). You can wait 'til you get the figure to pay. I'm guessing around $12, maybe.
4) Only the winner will get a pm message in return.

Good luck!

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That's what I thought, although it'd been a while since I've needed to change ROMs.

Will need to kiss goodbye to my 3.2B GC ...

Hey folks I have looked everywhere - all the US distributors and can not seem to find the updated rom. Would anyone be so kind as to point me in the right direction if you know a place that has them. Thank you

There’s a seller on eBay “classicarcades” that is selling them.

ebay.com link: itm

Just received my new ROM just waiting on the extraction tool gotta say I’m abit nervous doing the swap. Hopefully I’ll do it this weekend.

Anyone tried this ROM with the PinballSP video mod? Wondering if it will work...

Does anyone know where this ROM can be downloaded?

Yes. Upload the cash to the seller and they will download it to you.

I appreciate your response. Anyone know which seller offers the download? I'm only seeing the chip option.

I don't believe any seller offers this option.

 
Holomodsp has always been compatible with the Soren Rom Rev5, as well as with the L-4 (and probably even L-3). https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hologram-mod-for-creature-from-pinballsp-is-under-development#post-3602030

Since the first firmware release, the Holomodsp has already been tested with both Roms, and all necessary firmware changes have been made to support the Soren Rom.

If there is a version later than Rev5 I would check it out, but I don't think it will affect the switch matrix or lamp signals. I seem to remember that the differences were in the digital signals of the data bus that deliver information about the status of the lamps, flasher and coils. These differences are present between the older versions of the WPC89 system and the later WPC-S and WPC95, it seems that the newer versions handle the lighting of the lamps more efficiently avoiding the ghost lighting of some lamps.

If you haven't done it yet, I suggest you update the firmware of the green board (Raspberry), because it greatly improves the boot time of the product to about 15 seconds, less than half of the first versions.

https://github.com/pinballsp/Creature-HOLO-ModSP/tree/master/firmware

 
This video of the machine in play with the Holomodsp kit, was made with the Soren Rom Rev5.

Hi all

I repect your desire to have the MikeD mod working with the rev. 5.0 software. And I hope we can find a solution to this. I would like to see a solution and I promise to keep it in mind.

I am glad to read that some of you volunteer to lend your mod to me to work on a solution. I am just not too kean on having this shipping across the pond on a promise that I will return it unharmed. Especially not now it is out of print.

The best thing would be if the author of this would share the schematics of the custom board with us. Or even with the source code. Anyone know how to contact him?

The second best thing is if some of you are able to document at least some of the board. It looks like the connectors are ordered in col/row pairs. Each basically representing different lamps on the playfield. Up to eight. Assume these lamp states are conveted to 3.3v binary signals that is ultimately fed to the RPi. Rather than testing the cols and rows seperately. If this is the case, I am puzzled as to why it breaks when running 5.0. I can only explain it by the mod being highly sensitive to the timing of the lamp signals. And if so, a hardware fix is not possible. But again, a lot of guess work on my behalf.

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MikeD is PinballMikeD here on Pinside

Thanks pinballsp i don’t have the raspberry version? I have the older model, is there an update for that one as well… is the r pie version more performant and or better?

 
All Holomodsp kits install a Raspberry (green board).

The only thing that has changed is the size of that board (green), it is now smaller (see image below). But the firmware is the same for both, you can download it from the project's Github and update your kit. In addition to improving the boot time, all the videos were also included, the last two for the base package and the 6 for the extra package.

And if your kit is one of the first, I also recommend that you update the firmware of the blue board (Holomodsp), I made some improvements in the triggering of the FILM videos and the programming to trigger the latest videos of the base package was added.

https://github.com/pinballsp/Creature-HOLO-ModSP/tree/master/firmware
 

Holo_RPY_Versions.jpg

Do you guys have rubber post sleeves on these that separate the inlanes and outlanes? I don’t see any in the manual, but it seems like they should? Thanks all.

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This was discussed a long time ago and apparently they weren’t supposed to, but I and others have out a sleeve on them.

Great, thank you!