Few questions:
- Did you measure idle voltage at the coil (ie not energized)
- can you measure resistance of the entire circuit taken from the power board connector. There's almost nothing between the power board and the coils, you should see a value of a few ohms (careful with the direction, the flyback diode can affect the reading). A typical coil is about 3 to 4 ohms. A higher resistance will result into a lower current, thus reducing the magnetic effect. Likewise a lower voltage than expected (should be 70V) decrease current for a fixed resistance value

If your voltage level is too low, issue is likely the rectifier (but then all coils on the same power rail should exhibit the same behavior)

If your resistance is too high, there 's something in circuit raising resistance. Check solder connections and wiring, especially at the connectors

Control transistor might also be bad, although to be fair I'm not quite sure I understand how a transistor could' partially fail (ie switching, but limiting current)

Power loss is on all solenoids/coils. So I guess it will indeed be BR3 which is I suppose at the origin of my 20V reading on TP6 and making game unplayable.

Heat sink is only on BR1 & 2, BR3 & 4 are standalones. Getting rectifiers in today, having fun this weekend

I'm looking for some electrical troubleshooting help. I was having some spontaneous game resets (when flipping both flippers) that I was previously able to temporarily fix by reseating connectors J101 and J114. That was no longer working so following the Pinwiki guide, I replaced the header pins on those two connectors and repinned them with trifurcon pins. The pins on J101 were really rough looking. The reset problem is gone (yay!) but when I connected everything back together, I noticed that the GI lighting under both of the slings is not lit. I was tracing wires around and noticed a white-violet wire running to J119. When I touched J119 (which is on a bit of a jaunty angle like the header pins are bent downwards), both VUK's started firing. I was able to repeat the problem by wiggling J119. The GI lighting did not come back on (or flicker). I'm trying to figure out if there is any relationship between these two problems. I am thinking at minimum I need to replace header pins on J119 and repin that connector but I'm hoping for some thoughts on whether this relates to the GI lighting somehow. Note that my machine had Mike D's video mod which introduces a bunch of stuff down by the coin door interface board which J119 apparently feeds. Any advice out there?

Update - I replaced header pins and put a new connector on J119 which fixed the VUK problem. As I was plugging everything back in I found a broken wire on J120 which has now fixed the GI lights. The broken wire was from a previous repinning job someone did and they way over-crimped the pin, maybe with pliers, and did not capture any insulation in the outer part of the crimp. I am getting the feeling I should just repin all the connectors and be done with it but I would miss out on all the troubleshooting fun.

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I have this image in a bigger size (677KB).
If anybody would like me to send it to them, just shoot me an E-mail.
I reckon you could print it onto vinyl and stick it over the existing mural behind the rollovers.
That's what I plan to do with it.

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FYI, the OEM mural that's back there is not a simple print. The leaves are Phosphorescent paint and glow under black light. The cab decals are the same. Off hand I can't recall all the parts of the game that glow under BL. I'd advise not doing anything that would harm the OEM mural if you do decide to put something else up there.

Is that true!?! Or are you gonna make a fool of me when I go out and buy a black light tomorrow?

More glows on that image than I recalled. Lots of Black Light glow on a CFTBL... (Hard to get good images right now as sun is coming directly into the game room)

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Hooley Dooley! I had no idea this was a thing.

I just ordered a black light for the games room. Thanks for this.

Makes you wonder, why didn't they add black light then if they took the pain of printing it in BL sensitive ink ? Or is that a coincidence ?

Makes me want to actually add blacklight inside the cabinet itself, need to find the right trigger for it (and where to put it)

Just a heads up on the hologram. I have delayed this project based on some supply issues. I will step back and try again in a few months to see if they sort things out.

Never knew the ink was UV sensitive either! Wow

Several games of that era have phosphorescent elements... I also have an AFM and T2 that have quite a bit of it.

Even just a little L.E.D. strip of U.V. light over the mural behind the rollovers.

A local pinsider reached out to me and was kind enough to part with his Creature so my wife and I can play our favorite machine!

I’m sure people will but most won’t be cheap. Hope you find one!

Thanks, the only two machines I've ever really wanted to keep forever were Hook and Creature. Been saving and picking up extra hours when I can for quite some time.

Everything's for sale if you're willing to pay (5 digits).

Hi

I have a absolutely beautiful CFTBL, but it is definitely on the HIGH END side. It has NO playfield wear, new plastics, new window for the hologram area, new whirlpool bowl cover, teal pop bumpers and other items. The cabinet is very nice, with some minor fade.

Has the very SOUGHT after "Mike D" mod and the original "Jeff Thompson" lighted speaker panel mod. These were actually discontinued in (2014) I believe. BOTH of these, are in very HIGH DEMAND. It also comes with the "Swinks" lighted snack bar mod, with a Ice Blue LED, as well as the White LED (Version 2) and the "LCD Movie Poster" mod. These are BOTH not installed.

I would have to think very hard about selling this gem, but I have had some health issues and do need to pay off some medical bills. If YOU are interested at all, PLEASE message me and I can send you very detailed pictures and more information. If I do end up selling this, I will definitely contribute to Pinside. THANKS!

Dan

DB62 sent you a PM.

Looking at joining the club soon. The game has a blue hologram. I know that is not how it should look. Is there a fix for that and how much does it hurt the value or resale of the game. Also, not seeing many for sale recently. Any ideas on current value for a very nice example with no fade? Thanks

I would say anywhere between 5600-6600 I am sure others will chime in on this.

If you can find one that's a "very nice example with no fade" they've been trending in the $7s lately. It's crazy. And no, there's no fix for the blue hologram. You can TRY to get a colored bulb, but it doesn't work all that well. One thing that does work is finding a very strong LED bulb which fits in the halogen socket. It will add more white light to the image and not make the blue quite so prominent

Has anyone heard about the progress of 86pixels lagoon video display?

I think he backed off a bit since the other solution seemed to be happening, and focused on other things

I don't think he's backed off. It just hasn't happened yet. The other solution is in the $800 range, so there is definitely still a market here for something more simple, like a regular hologram even

That would be great; the twilight zone solution is around $400, and is almost identical to what CFTBL would need. I’ll ask Jimmy

New ramps from starship fantasy and stumblor’s excellent ramp chase lamp controller installed, thanks to you guys for making these parts available!

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Super excited to finally be a part of this club! I set up the machine last night right before going to work after bringing it home, and only had enough time to play one ball...meanwhile while I was working all night my wife was plugging in her initials for high scores.... sigh, just once I'd like to have a shot at making high score!

My machine is just gorgeous, but I have a snag. When we moved it, I don't think the translight was locked, so the speaker panel, dmd panel and translite were on the glass when we went to lift up the head. The translite got scratched in a couple of places. Normally I'd just leave it, but it's quite noticeable because the rest of the machine looks so good.

So have many Creature fans seen the mirrored backglass by CPR now? How does it look? I'd like to have more traditional incandescent warm lighting behind it rather than white or colored LEDs. Does it look more natural and better with the deep blacks and silver in real life than the photos? I love the look of the stock translite, so hate to spend more if it doesn't have that same vibe and tone of the original.

If I go with a repo translite, are all sellers equal?

And swinks I've daydreamed and drooled over your snackbar mod since V.1. It is even more amazing in person! Great job man!

Finally, thanks to everyone reaching out and keeping their eyes out to find a Creature!

Thanks!

I have the mirrored and think it’s really good. My experience is the mirroring is more obvious when off/not lit but I still prefer it.

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This is consistent with my experience with the TZ glass. Looks very nice WAY up close and in person (and while off). Kind of hard to tell the difference when it's on. The CFTBL looks better IMO. Ugh I miss this frickin game

Congratulations on the new Creech it’s an awesome game. I have the CPR BG and I’m very happy with it. Fantastic Color’s and with LED’s behind it she really pops Money well spent I think. The mirror effect is amazing and yes silver and blacks are better in person you won’t be disappointed.

Some playing around with my 3D printer...

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very nice so far

You can use acrylic paint to spice him up a bit.

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Is the file available for this ?

try thingiverse

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:728553

Wonder if that would be a good statue to make a real hologram, or has someone the real one that was used?

I made one a while back

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Nice, but I was looking at creating a real hologram, the old fashion way.

https://www.integraf.com/resources/articles/a-using-your-own-laser-to-make-holograms

That's a super cool link, many thanks!

I have a local company that can make holograms the old fashion way but I need the figure so that is why I am looking at the 3d printed version. I have a 3d printer here so will start that up.

My recollection is that's where all the effort came into play in the previous reproductions... simply trying to figure out the statue and positioning of the subject in the OEM capture. Wasn't as easy as it sounded to get the look correct.

slippifishi I only now updated my pin2dmd to the latest 4.24 firmware. I've had your newly designed colour files on my desktop for weeks now with the intension of installing them, but one thing has led to another at this new house and well it just kept getting put off. Tonight was different. I booked 10 minutes to myself and installed the new files. Then I played. I played horribly because I was taking in all the absolutely fantastic changes that have been done. The numerous updates to the "sneak in bonus", the sparkles added to the "Mega Menu", the left ramp... Oh man... I must have hit that left ramp a hundred times over the next 10 minutes just to see the car drive by! The pinky red you used is just awesome! I sucked in every subtle change, and I'm the kind of person that notices everything, so I really REALLY appreciate the items you updated that no one else is even going to notice. The pinky red part of the car when he yells "Move Your Car" The extra twinkle when the "SNACKBAR IS OPEN" the BIG MILLIONS ramp animation! I played for nearly 45 minutes and never once saved the girl or found the creature. One game I scored 300,000,000 with no extra ball, and managed to start multiball 3 times (the long way) and never saw the girl or the creature. I just couldn't hit the SEARCH triangles. Oh, and the LIPS! Soooo red! Ha ha! From the green hairband in the K-I-S-S girl's hair, to the dead person hanging out of the car when MOVE YOUR CAR ends (which I NEVER noticed until this colour version BTW). I was smiling and laughing at things I was noticing the entire time!

I said before your colour choices were fantastic, and I still stand by that. I cannot wait to play better and get to see some of the animations I didn't get to see tonight. Take a bow! The work you have done is awesome. Oh, even my wife, who has zero interest in pinball, walked passed Creech tonight and comment on how nice the display looked.

*microphone drop*

THANK YOU!

For sure a lot cheaper than fake copy hologram or LCD solution

What stl file did you use for it and what about the plants in front of it ?

How did you make it move ? pics available ? Thx

I do not know if I am imagining things but after I stripped my playfield for a clean and resteration and on reasembly of the "lagoon" window I dont remeber the gap between the playfield and the window to be so big, I measure 1.5mm or 1/16th around. Is this correct?

I did VERY light sanding on the playfield lagoon hole just to get it nice and clean, not enough I thought to enlarge it.

Can I please get some feedback about the gap size? Thanks.

Its not off just your imagination, besides there would be nothing you could do now but enjoy the game.