(Topic ID: 79267)

CFTBL- Fans and members welcome!!!

By vilant

7 years ago


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  • 418 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by Mellow
  • Topic is favorited by 236 Pinsiders

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There are 4,305 posts in this topic. You are on page 82 of 87.
#4051 4 months ago

If you're looking to replace your non-working hologram *and* get better sound at the same time for a reasonable price and a bit of DIY this works great : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-creature-holo-mod-for-cftbl

Starts out as a pure holo replacement, further along I describe how to combine it with a TiltAudio sound card so it all runs on a single Pi.

#4052 4 months ago

I discovred some burnt connectors on my CFTBL. It is on pin 12 and 11 of J115 on the power driver board. Also on the J120 connector. Everything is still working fine though. I got some help from the FB Pinball Repair help group advising to replace the plug and the header, wich I am planning todo.

So I see diffrent gauge wires and assume I have to get these plugs for the correct gauge. Any guide in identifying what I should order? Also any special tools needed? I have a good soldering station and braid to de and resolder. Do I just pull the wires out the plug and push into new one?

While I have the board out should I replace capasitors? How do I know if they are original or already have been replaced?

Thank you for any help.

board (resized).jpgboard2 (resized).jpgboard3 (resized).jpg
#4053 4 months ago
Quoted from Zigzagzag:

If you're looking to replace your non-working hologram *and* get better sound at the same time for a reasonable price and a bit of DIY this works great : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-creature-holo-mod-for-cftbl
Starts out as a pure holo replacement, further along I describe how to combine it with a TiltAudio sound card so it all runs on a single Pi.

What monitor and bracket did you end up using?

#4054 4 months ago

Just joined the club with a nice example! Love this era of pins and this one in particular is sweet!

It has the original silver vein legs on. Anyone know what powders from prismatic or elsewhere that’ll match? Going to do lockdown bar and side rails

#4055 4 months ago

I am having an intermittent problem, when I first turn on the game, often the PAID rollover lanes do not register anything. I have tried manually activating all 4 of the switches and nothing happens. If I end the game and start a new one, all the switches work. If I power down and restart, typically they all work as well. All the switches work fine in the test menu. Thoughts?

#4056 4 months ago
Quoted from Mellow:

I discovered some burnt connectors on my CFTBL. It is on pin 12 and 11 of J115 on the power driver board. Also on the J120 connector. Everything is still working fine though. I got some help from the FB Pinball Repair help group advising me to replace the plug and the header, which I am planning to do.

So I see different gauge wires and assume I have to get these plugs for the correct gauge. Any guide in identifying what I should order? Also, are any special tools needed? I have a good soldering station and braid to de and resolder. Do I just pull the wires out of the plug and push into a new one?

While I have the board out should I replace capacitors? How do I know if they are original or already have been replaced?

Thank you for any help.

Any help identifying what I should order? J115 is different from J120. Is there a post where these plugs and heard pins are explained?

Thanks!

#4057 4 months ago
Quoted from Mellow:

Any help identifying what I should order? J115 is different from J120. Is there a post where these plugs and heard pins are explained?
Thanks!

OK, my research came to this...

Move away from IDC connectors to the crimp MOLEX type.

J115 - 12 pin 18AWG 0.156 connectors and header
J120 - 11pin 22AWG 0.156 connector and header

So my shopping list:

0.156 header pin of the correct length for each or cut to size
0.156 connector plug of the correct length for each or cut to size
0.156 crimp contact 18-20AWG
0.156 crimp contact 22-26AWG
0.156 keying plugs
HT-225D crimping tool

Switch GI bulbs to LED (warm white)

Can anyone confirm I got it right?

#4058 4 months ago
Quoted from Mellow:

OK, my research came to this...
Move away from IDC connectors to the crimp MOLEX type.
J115 - 12 pin 18AWG 0.156 connectors and header
J120 - 11pin 22AWG 0.156 connector and header
So my shopping list:
0.156 header pin of the correct length for each or cut to size
0.156 connector plug of the correct length for each or cut to size
0.156 crimp contact 18-20AWG
0.156 crimp contact 22-26AWG
0.156 keying plugs
HT-225D crimping tool
Switch GI bulbs to LED (warm white)
Can anyone confirm I got it right?

Looks about right. My suggestion is to invest in the good ratcheting-type crimper tool, it will pay dividends in the long run.
-Zee

#4059 4 months ago
Quoted from Zee:

Looks about right. My suggestion is to invest in the good ratcheting-type crimper tool, it will pay dividends in the long run.
-Zee

I always dreaded having to redo a connector as I would struggle to make foolproof crimps so I purchased the following crimper and ever since my crimps have come out perfect. It is well worth the cost.

amazon.com link »

Gord

#4060 4 months ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

I always dreaded having to redo a connector as I would struggle to make foolproof crimps so I purchased the following crimper and ever since my crimps have come out perfect. It is well worth the cost.
amazon.com link »
Gord

That's a darn good price. I remember paying over 200 back in the day...

#4061 4 months ago
Quoted from Zee:

That's a darn good price. I remember paying over 200 back in the day...

Crap, $23? buy it ASAP

#4062 4 months ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

I always dreaded having to redo a connector as I would struggle to make foolproof crimps so I purchased the following crimper and ever since my crimps have come out perfect. It is well worth the cost.
amazon.com link »
Gord

Same one I have and it works great.

#4063 4 months ago

Thank you all for your feedback and advice.

#4064 4 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I’m still having a hard time understanding why one would get this mod which doesn’t sync with gameplay, when the Pinballsp mod *does* sync up, and for about the same price. …And that Compy86 may be coming out with a mod as well

It's half the price. That's why.

#4065 4 months ago
Quoted from Off2War:

Hardly the "best bang for your buck" at all.
Its a cheap digital photo frame purchased off ebay with a usb plugged into it, which plays a video related to the movie, and has nothing at all to do with the gameplay of the pin. At a whopping $450 Au + shipping you can make this mod yourself for less then $100 AU and put the difference towards some other mods related to this game
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/creach-mod-for-cftbl#post-6365649

Saves me a shit ton of time not editing video. To each his own I guess. I love mine.

#4066 4 months ago

In the light (excuse the pun) of my burnt GI connectors, I decided to move to LED lighting. I however do not want to go to coloured LED's and prefer the warm white from the original incandescent bulbs. I will appreciate any advice as to what LEDs to use to keep the original look and warm glow of the game.

#4067 4 months ago

I’d try the sunlights. They really give the best look IMHO to the original incandescent.

#4068 4 months ago

I am looking for the bottom part of the cabinet. So if you are selling I am buying.

#4069 4 months ago
Quoted from Mellow:

In the light (excuse the pun) of my burnt GI connectors, I decided to move to LED lighting. I however do not want to go to coloured LED's and prefer the warm white from the original incandescent bulbs. I will appreciate any advice as to what LEDs to use to keep the original look and warm glow of the game.

Why not just re-pin the burnt Gi connector and stick with good old incandescents? This game has a huge amount of fading affects on GI that will impact LEDs unless you add an OCD board.

#4070 4 months ago
Quoted from in2kiss:

Why not just re-pin the burnt Gi connector and stick with good old incandescents? This game has a huge amount of fading affects on GI that will impact LEDs unless you add an OCD board.

I am redoing the two connectors in question J115 and J120 with new molex headers, connectors and Trifurcon pins. That does not reduce the amount of GI amp draw but I guess it took 30 years for this to happen, no harm in staying with incandescents.

#4071 4 months ago
Quoted from Mellow:

I am redoing the two connectors in question J115 and J120 with new molex headers, connectors and Trifurcon pins. That does not reduce the amount of GI amp draw but I guess it took 30 years for this to happen, no harm in staying with incandescents.

Agree 100% and since you like the look of incandescents anyway, just stick with it. While warm white LEDs continue to get better and better, I have yet to see one that replicates the warm glow of incandescents.

#4072 4 months ago

On this game LED wise, I do recommend color matching the inserts. I haven't noticed any flickering/ ghosting either since not much fading is done there.

15
#4073 3 months ago

I finally completed my CFTBL restoration project. It came out really well and plays great. Thanks to everyone's input and assistance along the way. Especially Stumblor for assisting me with recreating two new lamp boards that were missing. They work great!

My original hologram was toast, so I added the new holomodsp. It looks and integrates amazingly with the game. I also added a complete pinsound system and have the wolfy content loaded. I love the additional audio content and these upgrades make it play like a newer game!

Here's a summary of the restoration and upgrades, as well as a few pictures.

- New cabinet from VirtuaPin
- New cabinet decals
- New playfield (extra layer of clearcoat added)
- New holomodSP
- New Pinsound system (pinsound plus board, speakers, shaker, and enhanced audio content file)
- New DMDLux board
- New MPU board (5.0 Rom)
- New mirrored backglass
- New ramps
- LEDs throughout
- New side armor, legs, and lock down bar

FullCabinet (resized).JPGInnerCabinet (resized).JPGLowerPF (resized).JPGPlayfield (resized).JPGBackbox1 (resized).JPGBackbox2 (resized).JPG
#4074 3 months ago
Quoted from nlrobert:

I finally completed my CFTBL restoration project. It came out really well and plays great. Thanks to everyone's input and assistance along the way. Especially Stumblor for assisting me with recreating two new lamp boards that were missing. They work great!
My original hologram was toast, so I added the new holomodsp. It looks and integrates amazingly with the game. I also added a complete pinsound system and have the wolfy content loaded. I love the additional audio content and these upgrades make it play like a newer game!
Here's a summary of the restoration and upgrades, as well as a few pictures.
- New cabinet from VirtuaPin
- New cabinet decals
- New playfield (extra layer of clearcoat added)
- New holomodSP
- New Pinsound system (pinsound plus board, speakers, shaker, and enhanced audio content file)
- New DMDLux board
- New MPU board (5.0 Rom)
- New mirrored backglass
- New ramps
- LEDs throughout
- New side armor, legs, and lock down bar[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Where did you get the light baffles in the backbox? I thought those were unobtanium?

Look fantastic BTW. I so regret selling this game.

#4075 3 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Where did you get the light baffles in the backbox? I thought those were unobtanium?
Look fantastic BTW. I so regret selling this game.

They are actually available from most vendors.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8782
https://www.pinballlife.com/creature-from-the-black-lagoon-backbox-light-baffle.html
https://www.thepinballwizard.net/cabinet-parts/creature-from-the-black-lagoon-backbox-light-baffle/

#4076 3 months ago
Quoted from nlrobert:

I finally completed my CFTBL restoration project. It came out really well and plays great. Thanks to everyone's input and assistance along the way. Especially Stumblor for assisting me with recreating two new lamp boards that were missing. They work great!
My original hologram was toast, so I added the new holomodsp. It looks and integrates amazingly with the game. I also added a complete pinsound system and have the wolfy content loaded. I love the additional audio content and these upgrades make it play like a newer game!
Here's a summary of the restoration and upgrades, as well as a few pictures.
- New cabinet from VirtuaPin
- New cabinet decals
- New playfield (extra layer of clearcoat added)
- New holomodSP
- New Pinsound system (pinsound plus board, speakers, shaker, and enhanced audio content file)
- New DMDLux board
- New MPU board (5.0 Rom)
- New mirrored backglass
- New ramps
- LEDs throughout
- New side armor, legs, and lock down bar[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You have some mad skilz (misspelled on purpose to sound hipper than I am) there nlrobert. Your Creech is stunning, well done indeed.

Gord

#4077 3 months ago

very very nice looking game, well done

#4078 3 months ago

Looks beautiful but I think those aren't the correct legs.

#4079 3 months ago
Quoted from gac:

Looks beautiful but I think those aren't the correct legs.

Yes...I just liked the rib-less look better than the ribbed.

#4080 3 months ago
Quoted from nlrobert:

Yes...I just liked the rib-less look better than the ribbed.

Mine came with legs like that - they were mismatched heights. I could never figure out why it wouldn’t level, until I measured…

#4081 3 months ago

I got them from Pinball Life. They have ribbed or non-ribbed Bally/WMS leg sets. It was just my preference to have the smoother look.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-non-ribbed-chrome-legs-set-of-4.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-ribbed-chrome-legs-set-of-4.html

#4082 3 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Where did you get the light baffles in the backbox? I thought those were unobtanium?
Look fantastic BTW. I so regret selling this game.

Staffan Rdoyle1978
You can download the 3D print file here for free. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4863461

If you do not have a 3D printer like me just get your local 3D printer guy to print it for you, cost me $10.

It comes out perfect, very sturdy and brilliantly white. I can post a picture if you like.

#4083 3 months ago
Quoted from nlrobert:

I finally completed my CFTBL restoration project. It came out really well and plays great. Thanks to everyone's input and assistance along the way. Especially Stumblor for assisting me with recreating two new lamp boards that were missing. They work great!
My original hologram was toast, so I added the new holomodsp. It looks and integrates amazingly with the game. I also added a complete pinsound system and have the wolfy content loaded. I love the additional audio content and these upgrades make it play like a newer game!
Here's a summary of the restoration and upgrades, as well as a few pictures.
- New cabinet from VirtuaPin
- New cabinet decals
- New playfield (extra layer of clearcoat added)
- New holomodSP
- New Pinsound system (pinsound plus board, speakers, shaker, and enhanced audio content file)
- New DMDLux board
- New MPU board (5.0 Rom)
- New mirrored backglass
- New ramps
- LEDs throughout
- New side armor, legs, and lock down bar[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Fantastic job on the resto nlrobert you've knocked it out of the park. Really pleased to see those lamp boards in situ - and working! They were a simple design so I never tested them, but you never know

Send me a PM with your address and I'll send you off a universal monsters sticker for the apron, yours looks a little faded.

#4084 3 months ago

anyone has a CFTBL for sale in NY ? ideally close to Quebec border.

#4085 3 months ago
Quoted from Paseb:

anyone has a CFTBL for sale in NY ? ideally close to Quebec border.

One came up in Ottawa on Kijiji, check it out here:

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-toys-games/ottawa/creature-from-the-black-lagoon-pinball-machine/1580233356

#4086 3 months ago

Yikes. $ 9,700 CND = $ 7,756 USD.

Maybe mine is available for that too

#4087 3 months ago
Quoted from Ballypin:

Yikes. $ 9,700 CND = $ 7,756 USD.
Maybe mine is available for that too

It wont move at that price hehe

#4088 3 months ago
Quoted from Paseb:

It wont move at that price hehe

I've had that opinion before and been proven wrong every time.

I was asked early on if this pinball obsession was an investment and I replied, "No, no - it's a hobby." Now it IS starting to look like an investment.

#4089 3 months ago

Homestretch on this one… Just need to sort the transformer out (and the coin door buttons etc). Took a while, but I didn’t have that much spare time. Will need a new playfield and backbox glass, it seems that I somehow misplaced them.

6F0AAD7B-EAB8-498C-BC2A-CF0D9A522CE8 (resized).jpeg

#4090 3 months ago

Does anyone have a file to print the decal set for the lockbar (High Votage under playfield, Inspected by, install 3 Balls) and the other decals inside the cabinet like 16-9244?

It will save me from painstakingly recreating them in illustrator.

Thank you.

#4091 3 months ago
Quoted from Mellow:

Does anyone have a file to print the decal set for the lockbar (High Votage under playfield, Inspected by, install 3 Balls) and the other decals inside the cabinet like 16-9244?
It will save me from painstakingly recreating them in illustrator.
Thank you.

Take a look here : http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

#4092 3 months ago

Thank you Zigzagzag but I found nothing of acceptable quality. I am recreating all decals now in Illustartor and will share when done.

#4093 3 months ago
Quoted from Mellow:

Does anyone have a file to print the decal set for the lockbar (High Votage under playfield, Inspected by, install 3 Balls) and the other decals inside the cabinet like 16-9244?
It will save me from painstakingly recreating them in illustrator.
Thank you.

Pinsider flashinstinct created some really nice decal sets like this a few years ago. I purchased a set from him at the time and they are perfect. I don't know if he has any leftover sets or if he can create another set, but you may want to reach out to him.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-williams-warning-decal-set#post-2254363

Gord

#4094 3 months ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

Pinsider flashinstinct created some really nice decal sets like this a few years ago. I purchased a set from him at the time and they are perfect. I don't know if he has any leftover sets or if he can create another set, but you may want to reach out to him.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-williams-warning-decal-set#post-2254363
Gord

He's still selling them. You can find them in the market.

#4095 3 months ago
Quoted from Mellow:

Thank you Zigzagzag but I found nothing of acceptable quality. I am recreating all decals now in Illustartor and will share when done.

They are there but a little bit hidden in the Williams folder:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Williams/Williams_High_Voltage_under_playfield_sticker.zip
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Williams/Williams_install_balls_labels.zip

#4097 3 months ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

Pinsider flashinstinct created some really nice decal sets like this a few years ago. I purchased a set from him at the time and they are perfect. I don't know if he has any leftover sets or if he can create another set, but you may want to reach out to him.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-williams-warning-decal-set#post-2254363
Gord

Fifty GRB1959 Thank you for your help. I am in South Africa and my spare parts order just arrived after almost a month of shipping time so I will have to recreate most and have a local printer print a high quality set for me. I am luckily proficient in Adobe Illustrator and have the original to scan. I will make it available when done for those that are in the same situation and want to print it locally.

#4098 3 months ago

Can anyone please tell me where this tilt switch goes? It is not the plumb bob or the one on the bottom of the cabinet. It is weighted at the end so that is why I think it is a tilt switch.

Thank you!

WhatsApp Image 2021-08-15 at 18.47.32 (resized).jpeg
#4099 3 months ago
Quoted from Mellow:

Can anyone please tell me where this tilt switch goes? It is not the plumb bob or the one on the bottom of the cabinet. It is weighted at the end so that is why I think it is a tilt switch.
Thank you!
[quoted image]

Slam Tilt switch, attaches to the coin door to punish players who give a knee to the machine.

#4100 3 months ago
Quoted from Zee:

Slam Tilt switch, attaches to the coin door to punish players who give a knee to the machine.

This. And to not accidently put a credit on the machine with a hard or good kick to the door. It mounts ON the door, depending on the maker, usually above the lock.

There are 4,305 posts in this topic. You are on page 82 of 87.

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