Creature from the Black Lagoon
Bally, 1992Quoted from Soulrider911:This is awesome!, I also reproduced the original if you all need one
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4863461
You did a very nice job on the back box light baffle. Pinball Life also sells these.
https://www.pinballlife.com/creature-from-the-black-lagoon-backbox-light-baffle.html
Gord
Quoted from Fifty:Have you seen stumblor Creech? He had teal caps on there and clear bases I believe. Different cap style too. I know he just did up those Lollypops as well which add some great flair to the game in the pop area. You should check them out!
Thanks for the shout out Tim.
Below is what my pops looked.like originally (teal caps, clear bodies and skirts).
Full resto here
https://www.stumblorpinball.com/s/stories/stumblor-pinball-presents-creature-from-theblack-lagoon
Recently though I changed them over to using opaque caps and my Lollypops mod. The mod pulses when at rest, and then runs an rgb pattern when hit.
More info on that here
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stumblor-lollypops-full-color-reactive-led-pop-bumper-rings
I agree with KJS though the more light you can get back there the better, as its a very dark area typically.in a stock game. That's the reason I never went for the single bulb triggered by a switch hit, it's better to have them lit all the time on creech.
20200115_140652_1612790664 (resized).jpg
9e536eb8f0a22f372c1004f38465a9cf74fb50d8 (resized).jpgQuoted from Fifty:I used the coated ones.
[quoted image]
Worked fine. I removed the dome off the LED.
See finished product here
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pnZVehP5Q2jyZcnZ8
Fifty that really looks awsome. I see you have it connected to the lightning bolts so it became part of the attract mode, nice.
Quoted from Mellow:Fifty that really looks awsome. I see you have it connected to the lightning bolts so it became part of the attract mode, nice.
Yeah, it works quite well. Looks good in attract mode too. Here's a shot of the wiring. Basically the one end of the LED socket connects to the free solder point on the bottom of the triangle PCB. The other three wires are all connected together for ground and then I punched them into the molex connector. It was pretty easy. Hardest part is getting at the pops. I stapled the wires down to keep them from getting in the way of the mechs.
...oh good, the issue I'm having is associated with current discussion.
I just picked up a CFTBL two weeks ago. The lights in the pop bumpers are connected to the lights on the triangle PCB.
They were paired "oddly" and one wasn't working at all, so I made some adjustments and now the lighting bolts and the pop bumper lights come on in pairs as-desired in test mode and attract mode. Perfect.
BUT
In game play, all six lights are on by default unless one of the bumpers pops, in which case all six briefly flash off. Is this normal? What is the intended lighting logic for the lightning bolts? Is there a situation in game play when the bolts should be on independent of the other bolts?
By the way: my pop bumper lights are wired directly to the lamps on the PCB board (which is just U-G-L-Y). I like @Fifty's arrangement much better and will rewire similarly as soon as I stop being lazy and/or preoccupied by other minor pin projects.
Quoted from curban:In game play, all six lights are on by default unless one of the bumpers pops, in which case all six briefly flash off. Is this normal? What is the intended lighting logic for the lightning bolts? Is there a situation in game play when the bolts should be on independent of the other bolts?
Yes, all six lights are on by default. They only go off if the pops are activated. Normal.
I am not sure about your question for the lightninng logic. Default is for all of them to turn off when a pop is activated. I don't believe they are ever independent of each other except for in attract mode. Might make a good mod for someone to exploit somehow.
Quoted from Fifty:Yes, all six lights are on by default. They only go off if the pops are activated. Normal.
I am not sure about your question for the lightninng logic.
...you answered it. I was just questioning what has to happen for the lights to go on or off.
As I was tinkering with my machine tonight, I noticed a small (~1/2"long) metal spacer screwed to the underside of the ramp that exits at the left inlane (the "right ramp"). It is just under the swimmer sticker on the whirlpool ramp. It is just suspended in space and doesn't screw to a post or anything else (see photos). Is this correct? That ramp is supported at the entrance and at the exit but is unuspported along its entire length. Everything works great, it just seems odd. Thanks.
IMG_5317 (resized).jpgIMG_5318 (resized).jpgQuoted from Deleenhe:As I was tinkering with my machine tonight, I noticed a small (~1/2"long) metal spacer screwed to the underside of the ramp that exits at the left inlane (the "right ramp"). It is just under the swimmer sticker on the whirlpool ramp. It is just suspended in space and doesn't screw to a post or anything else (see photos). Is this correct? That ramp is supported at the entrance and at the exit but is unuspported along its entire length. Everything works great, it just seems odd. Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Mine is sitting above lower ramp, not below it like yours
574990CE-0531-4F10-A2A5-5F9A09D2A0F6 (resized).jpeg87B14A61-6F10-43C1-8B21-3F07BE49B951 (resized).jpegF3B8E68A-901C-49B7-8460-AB96EAE22DB5 (resized).jpegQuoted from JayDee:Mine is sitting above lower ramp, not below it like yours
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Mine is also above the lower ramp.
Gord
Quoted from Deleenhe:As I was tinkering with my machine tonight, I noticed a small (~1/2"long) metal spacer screwed to the underside of the ramp that exits at the left inlane (the "right ramp"). It is just under the swimmer sticker on the whirlpool ramp. It is just suspended in space and doesn't screw to a post or anything else (see photos). Is this correct? That ramp is supported at the entrance and at the exit but is unuspported along its entire length. Everything works great, it just seems odd. Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from JayDee:Mine is sitting above lower ramp, not below it like yours
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from GRB1959:Mine is also above the lower ramp.
Gord
[quoted image]
It should sit above (as guy's have commented) as it is there to help support the plastic habit-trail above it or to stop it from sagging at very least
It goes above. I mention this exact same issue on my pin. It seems a lot of them either left the factory incorrectly or they were shopped and put back together wrong. See my post. It starts here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cftbl-fans-and-members-welcome/page/71#post-6075189
Quoted from Gorgar1:Mine doesn’t have the screw/spacer on the ramp. The ramp is strong and doesn’t move but there is a hole on the ramp tab so maybe it wasn’t fitted. [quoted image][quoted image]
Your machine is restored, isn't it Pete? Possibly they fitted new ramps and never transferred over the spacer from the old ramp??
Quoted from Gorgar1:Yeah it is Brett, ramp feels very solid without it though
Yeah, it really doesn't need it. Probably why this piece gets installed incorrectly and no one even notices.
Quoted from Gorgar1:Yeah it is Brett, ramp feels very solid without it though
Yeah I reckon Bally had it there just in case there was too much play in the production ramps or if the ramp sagged over time, as these would potentially cause slow moving balls to stop in the ramp. So think they were playing it safe. Clearly though there is enough rigidity in the ramp not to need it.
Quoted from Gorgar1:I have a few light boards for example the K.I.S.S board where the LEDs sometimes work and then fail i’d say because the solder needs to be re flowed. Thats out of my league lol are these boards available brand new to buy?
yes the solder just needs reflowing and you would be all good, surely someone local can help you.
Quoted from Gorgar1:I have a few light boards for example the K.I.S.S board where the LEDs sometimes work and then fail i’d say because the solder needs to be re flowed. Thats out of my league lol are these boards available brand new to buy?
Hey Pete - sell me your machine, I'll reflow the connectors and sell it back to you (with a mark up) 
There's quite few AA boys in the western suburbs that could possibly do it however if you're over my way (Camberwell) with work you could drop them off and I could do it for you and test them in my machine. Just let me know
Quoted from Manny65:Hey Pete - sell me your machine, I'll reflow the connectors and sell it back to you (with a mark up)
There's quite few AA boys in the western suburbs that could possibly do it however if you're over my way (Camberwell) with work you could drop them off and I could do it for you and test them in my machine. Just let me know
Cheers Brett see how I go. I’m due for surgery in Two weeks but with the lock down announced today not sure that’ll happen and to think it was cancelled last time due to lock down I can’t take a trick at the moment.
Here’s a question for the pro Creech players. How do you stop or control the ball coming down the right inlane? I can’t stop it and just have to try a moving shot and hope for the best. Not a successful strategy so far…
Quoted from Deleenhe:Here’s a question for the pro Creech players. How do you stop or control the ball coming down the right inlane? I can’t stop it and just have to try a moving shot and hope for the best. Not a successful strategy so far…
Depends on the game. With mine, I can let it bounce off the right flipper over to the left. Sometimes the right sling will fire depending on how it comes down though and that can be trouble. The other option is just to dead catch it. Most times I just keep the flow going though and pick the KISS, left ramp or center shot and keep the ball moving.
Quoted from Fifty:Depends on the game. With mine, I can let it bounce off the right flipper over to the left. Sometimes the right sling will fire depending on how it comes down though and that can be trouble. The other option is just to dead catch it. Most times I just keep the flow going though and pick the KISS, left ramp or center shot and keep the ball moving.
He’s talking about the the inlane (behind the sling).
Deleenhe I don’t think I’ve ever been able to stop and control the ball when it comes down there unless I got lucky flipping at the exact right time and catch the sling post there or something. I don’t think there’s any good way to stop the ball, at least nothing you could do on a regular basis with great success. But then again, I’m not a super, great player either
Quoted from JayDee:He’s talking about the the inlane (behind the sling).
Deleenhe I don’t think I’ve ever been able to stop and control the ball when it comes down there unless I got lucky flipping at the exact right time and catch the sling post there or something. I don’t think there’s any good way to stop the ball, at least nothing you could do on a regular basis with great success. But then again, I’m not a super, great player either
I find the best way to deal with right inlane balls is either
a) Shoot move your car - this will move you one closer to a good scoring mode, allow you to collect lights on paid, and then when the ball comes through the pops give you an opportunity to right flipper live catch, which is reasonably easy and safe with a bit of practise. Ball will then be trapped up on the right flipper.
b) Backhand the right ramp. This will move the ball over to the left flipper, and set you up for a snackbar shot. The better option if you've already collected paid, or if you're running out of time to restart multiball (since snackbar is a way easier shot off the left flipper).
Which option you choose depends on what you need (snackbar or paid/kiss usually)
Quoted from stumblor:I find the best way to deal with right inlane balls is either
a) Shoot move your car - this will move you one closer to a good scoring mode, allow you to collect lights on paid, and then when the ball comes through the pops give you an opportunity to right flipper live catch, which is reasonably easy and safe with a bit of practise. Ball will then be trapped up on the right flipper.
b) Backhand the right ramp. This will move the ball over to the left flipper, and set you up for a snackbar shot. The better option if you've already collected paid, or if you're running out of time to restart multiball (since snackbar is a way easier shot off the left flipper).
Which option you choose depends on what you need (snackbar or paid/kiss usually)
You make it sound so easy hahaha. Live catching is awesome when you nail it but I’m still practicing 
Quoted from Gorgar1:You make it sound so easy hahaha. Live catching is awesome when you nail it but I’m still practicing
All words, no action! haha.
Live catching success totally depends on the game, and then the version of that game and how its setup. Where it hits the flipper plays a big part. On my creech I find that nudging the table to the left as its coming off the rhs ball guide puts it in a better position for a catch. You can see Bowen demonstrating this on TNA. Now there's a fella who makes it look easy.
Quoted from stumblor:All words, no action! haha.
Live catching success totally depends on the game, and then the version of that game and how its setup. Where it hits the flipper plays a big part. On my creech I find that nudging the table to the left as its coming off the rhs ball guide puts it in a better position for a catch. You can see Bowen demonstrating this on TNA. Now there's a fella who makes it look easy.
Yeah I nudge mine to I try and hold the ball but I also like passing it over to the left flipper for snack bar shots love hitting the snack bar scoop. I only have The one game Creech and I’ve been home for months due to health issues and it still keeps me entertained. I have been closely looking at the new Mandalorian pin and thinking should I buy the pro ? Hmmm 2 pins would be nice. I Tell the wife it’s good for my rehab not sure she believes me lol.
Quoted from stumblor:Yep I've got these. Send me a pm ill send you one. No charge.
stumblor - Davey, thank you so much!
creech sticker (resized).jpgQuoted from JayDee:He’s talking about the the inlane (behind the sling).
Ah, yes. My mistake.
Right inlane.
Quoted from Mellow:stumblor - Davey, thank you so much![quoted image]
Here's what it looks like when replaced and cleaned up! (scroll down a wee bit).
https://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/mini-shop-jobs-surfer-cftbl-other.46840/page-4#post-393090
BTW, my Creech cards are still up on Google Drive for anyone new interested in them. Enjoy!
Light pink
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U_xH9_vuPTo2ZlQIFKXn5Ff9boDnUt_7/view?usp=sharing
lightpink (resized).JPG
Hot pink
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qUB5BHmqUKcEMXton63COISJta6Y5lEE/view?usp=sharing
hotpink (resized).JPG
Quoted from Gorgar1:I Tell the wife it’s good for my rehab not sure she believes me lol.
Easy, don't ask her that's how I ended up with... 7
If anyone needs protectors, I still have these. I will also be at Pinfest next Friday 7/30.
Hey guys,
A couple questions for the group. I'm in the middle of my CFTBL restoration project and I need some assistance and some opinions.
1. I ordered a new cabinet from Virtuapin and it arrived this week. It looks awesome, but there are no holes drilled in the lower cabinet for the backbox hinges or for the playfield support brackets. I emailed virtuapin and left a message as well, but haven't heard back yet. I have a CV cabinet from another project and I can use it as a template. However, I'm not sure if the CV cabinet is identical to the CFTBL cabinet or not. From what I've read, it seems all the WPC standard cabinets were the same, but I want to be absolutely sure before I make a template and start drilling holes. Does anyone know if the cabinets are the same?
2. I'm debating on going with mirror blades or with the back lot gameblades (the one with the classic cars). What's everyone's opinion on one over the other. I will have LED's installed, so I was thinking the mirror blades may make it really bright during game play.
Quoted from nlrobert:Hey guys,
A couple questions for the group. I'm in the middle of my CFTBL restoration project and I need some assistance and some opinions.
1. I ordered a new cabinet from Virtuapin and it arrived this week. It looks awesome, but there are no holes drilled in the lower cabinet for the backbox hinges or for the playfield support brackets. I emailed virtuapin and left a message as well, but haven't heard back yet. I have a CV cabinet from another project and I can use it as a template. However, I'm not sure if the CV cabinet is identical to the CFTBL cabinet or not. From what I've read, it seems all the WPC standard cabinets were the same, but I want to be absolutely sure before I make a template and start drilling holes. Does anyone know if the cabinets are the same?
2. I'm debating on going with mirror blades or with the back lot gameblades (the one with the classic cars). What's everyone's opinion on one over the other. I will have LED's installed, so I was thinking the mirror blades may make it really bright during game play.
In regards to the cabinet, while the dimensions of the cabinet remained the same the hole positions varied over time. Early WPC machines (eg T2) used a different PF hinge technique and while CFTBL uses a similar hinge design to WPC95 machines the PF slide assembly part numbers changed over time altering the hole position needed. Also the WPC95 uses a different backbox hinge bracket (01-9011.2) compared to WPC machines (01-9011) and while my quick measurement shows the hinge bolt is in a similar position, I guess the reason the hole is not drilled is that there is a subtle difference between them as well.
I have 3d modelled the CFTBL cabinet so I can help you out with some dimensions BUT it is also dependent on where the hinge mount holes are in the backbox that you had made. I would sketch the hinge locations that I can give you and then you place the backbox on your cabinet with the hinges and check the location before pre drilling.
Also black mirror blades look nice - have not seen a awesome set of CFTBL art blades.
I have a brand new set of black mirror blades that I'm looking to sell (I purchased them with the intent but never installed them in my CftBL). if you're interested, shoot me a pm
Thanks for the input on the cabinet. I have a buddy that has a Creature, so I'm going to got see him this week and take some measurements for the slide brackets. for the backbox hinges, I figured I could sit the backbox on the cabinet with the hinges bolted on the backbox and then mark and drill the cabinet holes. That would should be fairly easy to figure out.
J_m_...I'll PM you about the mirror blades.
here are some screen shots that might help you.
But note while when I had a CFTBL I modelled this cabinet to imperial the best I can by then converting to metric for my program. Therefore the measurements are in millimetres and to get back to imperial divide by 25.4
Note 1: I have not made a cabinet yet with these drawings but the whole pinball goes together in 3d space.
Note 2: But these will be a good guide for you for the backbox hinge and the playfield slide / hinge brackets.
Note 3: My cabinet was a European import and the cabinet construction was like a mortise and tenon joint at the edges but the measurements were taken from the very edges regards of the type of join. The third image shows the top panel transparent so you can see the join of the back and side.
hope that helps you as a guide
CFTBL cabinet (resized).pngcabinet view (resized).pngcabinet join (resized).pngCabinet Dimensions (resized).png
Thanks!!! I went to my buddies today and took measurements from his Creature. I'll check those against these as well to make sure everything lines up.
Sorry all, but I have to say it... for $449.00 juz pinball mods killed the LCD Creature mod market! Best bang for your buck, Poor Man approved!!!
https://juzpinballmods.com/product/creature-from-the-black-lagoon-video-mod/
If you are not a fan of our show we do a silly podcast that promotes the Poor Man Pinball life style (I am joking already, shits expensive af right now) while drunk (usually). However we did a quick video of Juz Pinball Mods LCD mod because honestly for half the price of Mike D or even JSPinballs mod, this is a worthy alternative.
Again, we were drunk when we did this video (and our podcast... lol) It is all in fun people!
Quoted from Captain-Flint:Sorry all, but I have to say it... for $449.00 juz pinball mods killed the LCD Creature mod market! Best bang for your buck, Poor Man approved!!!
https://juzpinballmods.com/product/creature-from-the-black-lagoon-video-mod/
If you are not a fan of our show we do a silly podcast that promotes the Poor Man Pinball life style (I am joking already, shits expensive af right now) while drunk (usually). However we did a quick video of Juz Pinball Mods LCD mod because honestly for half the price of Mike D or even JSPinballs mod, this is a worthy alternative.
Again, we were drunk when we did this video (and our podcast... lol) It is all in fun people!
I’m still having a hard time understanding why one would get this mod which doesn’t sync with gameplay, when the Pinballsp mod *does* sync up, and for about the same price. …And that Compy86 may be coming out with a mod as well
I am a huge Creature fan. Took me forever to get one. Read through this thread to see how long I lurked around before I even had one.
With regards to the hologram replacements. I understand the need for replacements, but hologram replacements have to be the biggest overhyped mod ever for a pinball machine. I still have a regular fading hologram. I've been window shopping for an alternative, but I have zero interest buying anything currently on the market. Out of sync video, or massive amounts of video being triggered just isn't for me. If you like that kind of thing then I'm glad the option is out there for you, but for me, I really just need a minimalist replacement.
Hmm... wonder if anyone could think of a use for this:
https://lookingglassfactory.com/portrait
First time I've seen this and I have to admit it looks pretty impressive, it can run in stand-alone mode as it has a built-in Raspberry Pi 4.
There's a great video of what it can do on Linus Tech Tips:
Quoted from Xerxes:Hmm... wonder if anyone could think of a use for this:
https://lookingglassfactory.com/portrait
First time I've seen this and I have to admit it looks pretty impressive, it can run in stand-alone mode as it has a built-in Raspberry Pi 4.
There's a great video of what it can do on Linus Tech Tips:
Whoa! Well, we are
Building a Star Wars themed gameroom, and I’ve been researching how to do a Princess Leia hologram with my R2D2 (mostly done with him). I have a holo fan, and was looking into an acrylic pyramid.
This wasn’t quite what I had in mind but it will do the trick nicely! R2 will stay in the game room, I only remove him very occasionally, (he’s heavy as hell) so I can just mount this to a location in the room. Done!
Quoted from Xerxes:Hmm... wonder if anyone could think of a use for this:
https://lookingglassfactory.com/portrait
First time I've seen this and I have to admit it looks pretty impressive, it can run in stand-alone mode as it has a built-in Raspberry Pi 4.
There's a great video of what it can do on Linus Tech Tips:
I might know a few guys that are looking into something similar to this.
Quoted from Captain-Flint:Sorry all, but I have to say it... for $449.00 juz pinball mods killed the LCD Creature mod market! Best bang for your buck, Poor Man approved!!!
https://juzpinballmods.com/product/creature-from-the-black-lagoon-video-mod/
If you are not a fan of our show we do a silly podcast that promotes the Poor Man Pinball life style (I am joking already, shits expensive af right now) while drunk (usually). However we did a quick video of Juz Pinball Mods LCD mod because honestly for half the price of Mike D or even JSPinballs mod, this is a worthy alternative.
Again, we were drunk when we did this video (and our podcast... lol) It is all in fun people!
Hardly the "best bang for your buck" at all.
Its a cheap digital photo frame purchased off ebay with a usb plugged into it, which plays a video related to the movie, and has nothing at all to do with the gameplay of the pin. At a whopping $450 Au + shipping you can make this mod yourself for less then $100 AU and put the difference towards some other mods related to this game
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/creach-mod-for-cftbl#post-6365649
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