Back on my VUK ejector coil issue after a two weeks break (reminder: my right ejector does not have sufficient power to eject the ball correctly in the wire ramp).

I've performed a few measurements:
- Measured resistance directly from the power board: 4.3 Ohms
- Measured resistance directly at the coil: 3.9 Ohms

Since the coil is new I have no reason to believe this would be incorrect, plus the value seems rather in line.

I measured simultaneously using a Picoscope the waveforms of both end of the coil, directly at the coil connections, here's what I get (I'm applying a ratio of 10 on the probe to match the scope input, so it's measuring 70V)

The very nice inversed square waveform is the drive signal
The not so nice signal is supposed to be the power line, which should be kept at 70V

So from that measurement, I would be tempted to think the issue is that the voltage drop of the 70V line is causing a drop of the voltage difference, especially after 5ms.

However I lack comparison points, and it could be that this is a perfectly normal curve, so I would welcome any feedbacks you can share

Thanks

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I replaced BR3 rectifier and C8 capacitor, no luck, same measurement, same behavior.

This is driving me crazy...

You're beyond my troubleshooting Ashram56 I wish you the best of luck.

Not to detract from your post(s), but just curious if anyone has hooked up a 8" sub woofer to their Creech? Was it worth it? What settings are you using? I have a PSW8 I've been thinking of wiring up.

Settings are whatever sounds good to you, but yes, a powered sub makes a huge difference on this pin as does upgraded speakers.

Adding an external powered sub is the best thing you can do sound wise. I've done it on my Tron and my Star Trek, this is so much better than any speaker upgrade. And it's cheap, as in top of it you can use a single powered subwoofer for multiple pinball machines (with a mixer table)

So back to basics:
- Can someone share the part number of the coil for the VUK, so I can check if mine is identical ? After all, I reordered the same coil on the basis of what was installed, it could be that a different one is needed
- Can someone take a resistance measurement at the coil ? I'm getting 3.9 Ohms, this sounds in line, but even a .5 Ohms can yield a huge difference

Thanks

I'm not near my machine, have you checked if your coil matched what's in the manual and parts list?

You can look up the coil resistance here https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

Just checked it, it's identical: AE-23-800, reference resistance according to the link above is 4.3 Ohms (I have 4.2 Ohms as measured from the power board).

I'm running out of ideas.

Based on that voltage plot, and that you already changed the Bridge Rectifier, I would chase the PCB wiring associated with the rectifier. The plot shows the low side of the coil being grounded, but the power side fluctuating like the AC power isn't being rectified properly to keep the 70v supply up.

Sounds like you're getting some phantom voltage back through the speakers. Maybe one of the diodes has gone bad on the lightning board?

As it turns out, I did a simulation of the circuit. The voltage curve is actually pretty normal when taking into consideration the low value of the capacitor (150uF), and the very high current draw. I just did not expect it.

Now I'm back to square one, since it's not electrical it has to be mechanical, but can't figure out what. I did realign the wire ramp just above, kind of randomly since I have no way to determine the proper position, and it's working much better, but I have no clue why.

Can you get a couple of pics and post them? That may help clue in what it is.

What is the best pitch setting for Creech. 6.5? Thanks.

That's what I use and can't complain ...

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So my inserts that light up when multiball is ready (on either side) and the extra ball insert are always on now, as soon as I press start. They are not locked on during attract mode.

Oddly, this started after I replaced the side rails and lifted the playfield. Any ideas?

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Only the flipper coils will have diodes.

Nice high score there Manny65

The diodes for the pop bumpers are on the underside of the triangular PCB screwed into the bottom of the playfield.

Don't forget to vote for Creech guys in the https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/round-2-greatest-pinball-game-of-all-time-tournament-edition-2021

It's losing to Indiana Jones right now.

That is a hard one, IJ is great CFTBL is great, they are next to eachother in my gameroom.

I agree. Toss your vote in either way. Just remember, CFTBL is easier to move up a staircase.

Hi. I'm going to install the replacement kit with filter of the hologram lamp.
Can someone give me a feedback if the filter is necessary and maybe post a picture of the lamp mod mounted ?
Thx

Got stumblor move your snack at installed, all I have to say is wow. I love it, and the ability to modify to your liking A++

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Knight Rider mode. My favourite one too!

And after a year and then some it’s almost finally done!

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Love the gloss black legs and side rails I need to get the side art to.

Beautiful game by the way

I’m in Australia but where is the best place to purchase side art for my creature? It’s to tight for mirror blades so cool side art is the next best option.

you mean art blades not Side art

Sideart is what is on the outside of the cabinet

Does anyone have video of the car mod in a Creech showing what the lighting of the car does in the different modes? For example, I'd like to see what it does in attract mode, at the start of multiball, during move your car, and during the peeping tom fight. I can't find a working video for the car mod on YT.

What car mod? The speakerpanel with taillights?

I had the car mod early days and it was just to GI and then I got rid of it and made my taillight mod which had brake and drive lights that were linked into Parking ok and move your car

there is a manual on my website for it

This one, or one similar to it.

My understanding is that part of it connects to the GI and part connects to a flasher. So I guess 12V and 5V?

I check it out. I was thinking the Parking OK was the way to go.

I purchased this version of the CFTBL car mod back in November of 2010 from Pinball Decals. The following URL has some photos and also describes when the headlights and the tail lights light up. I know that when the 'Move Your Car' mode starts that the headlights and tail lights both flash.

http://www.pinballdecals.com/CreatureModPage.html

Gord

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it is just a matter of piggy backing the wedge socket underneath:
- move your car insert can activate the drivers and tail-lights
- parking ok can activate the cabin light
for example - my manual shows how to tap into the lighting - 3rd manual down under the kit build section
https://swinks.com.au/manuals

Yes that’s the term I should have used do you do these Wayne?

I'm going to do my own DIY version of this mod. The diecast car can be bought for $30. The LEDs, if you buy two for the headlights, two for the tail lights and one for the interior are less than $10. Drill out the car rivet, hot glue LEDs in place. Run wire from the car to the sockets under the PF. Maybe $10 for wiring. I'm up to $50 and I'm done. Throw another $20 in there for shipping everything to my house. Maybe an hour of my time assembling (which I enjoy). Hard solder the connections as I don't trust alligator clips under a playfield. These car mods sell for $100-$140. I just saved $70+shipping+taxes+duty.

Mods like the Snackbar have R&D behind them. Hours of design. Materials designed from scratched. Painted by hand. Hours of labour. They are worth the price. These car mods are just an off the shelf diecast with LEDs glued into them.

totally agree, wasn't trying to sell anything rather the manual shows the wiring side of things - I personally think the car mods are over priced and even my original tail-light mod was half the price until Shapeways jacked up some of their prices.

Hey folks I need your help. I was removing my speaker panel plastic today because I needed to repair something in my taillight mod, and I damaged the plastic...major bummer as mine was basically brand new. I know these things are borderline impossible to find does anybody know where I could find one thank you so much

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/creature-from-the-black-lagoon/4186/display-cover-for-creature-from-the-black-lagoon?c=2096

Can't vouch for the quality, though.
Maybe this is a better bet :
https://www.free-play.se/produkter/kabinettdelar/speaker-panels/creature-from-the-black-lagoon-speaker-panel.html

I have the pink caddy on mine came with the game. When the ball travels up either ramp or straight up the middle lane all the 4 front lights flash but when the move my car PF lamp is lit only the top blue headlights flash. I’m not sure what’s it’s wired to but very cool mod.
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That is pretty cool car mod with 2 sets of lights on the front. I have never seen that done before with any of the CFTBL car mods, but it is a very nice lighting effect.

Your car mod does not appear to be a Cadillac. It looks like a 1955 Ford Fairlane Crown Victoria as shown by my makeshift topper and the mod in my game.

Gord

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I didn't take it this way at all. I didn't think you were trying to sell me anything. Unless you are trying to sell me something, then I'm buying.

Just out of curiosty, on my CFTBL the "Move your car" ramp is a killer if the ball fails to go through it all the way to the bumpers, and goes back down, it's a guaranteed drain between the flippers.

Is this a normal behaviour ? Can I reduce it somehow ?

Regards

It’s supposed to do that, it’s designed to kill you.

A good slap save will do the trick tho.

that is where you need the flower pot shaped rubber to the left of the snackbar hole as this deflects the ball so it doesn't go down the centre

...sometimes it does.

The flower pot rubber will save you often, but not always. If you brick that shot then get ready to save your ball. I swapped out the nylon lock nut for one with a lower profile. It's the lock nut that holds the switch that the wire gate triggers. Located practically on top of the snackbar hole. It helped me a little, but ya, you need to get the aim down.