(Topic ID: 79267)

CFTBL- Fans and members welcome!!!


By vilant

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by Fifty
  • Topic is favorited by 220 Pinsiders

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There are 3798 posts in this topic. You are on page 76 of 76.
#3751 12 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

What’s the driver transistor? If it’s a TIP102, you should be able to ground the metal tab to see if it’s possibly an issue with the transistor itself. Or just ground the wire at the coil, if you know which side to ground...
I suppose a cold solder joint could be at play, restricting current flow? Or a partially failed transistor. Or some added coil resistance? All seem unlikely, but I suppose anything is possible.

I've taken a oscilloscope shoot (above), and the transistor does switch. What I don't know however is the current draw, that was going to be my next step (need a current probe for my scope), and the reason why I was asking for the reference ohm resistance of the coil, if anyone has it. Should be around 3.5/3.7 ohms.

#3752 12 days ago
Quoted from stumblor:

I just built one for you, cos I'm a nice fella (and to see if I could!).
https://oshwlab.com/stumblor/pinball-lamp-boards
Open all in editor > Fabrication > PCB Fabrication File > Yes > Order at JCLPCB
It's around 8 quid posted to UK for 5 blank boards, not sure the cost to the states. You need to supply the diodes and headers and do a bit of soldering, but that's part of the fun!
Untested at present - I've just ordered a couple for myself to test, but it's such a simple board you can be pretty sure it's going to work.
[quoted image]

The lamp board came in this week and I finally got a chance to add the diodes and connector. The new board is now installed. Unfortunately I won't be able to light it up for a few weeks. I won't have the cabinet back together until then.

Thanks Stumblor for the assist. Also, when I ordered the board, they sent me 10 units. So, I have a few extras if anyone needs one.

NewBoard (resized).jpg
#3753 12 days ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

I've taken a oscilloscope shoot (above), and the transistor does switch. What I don't know however is the current draw, that was going to be my next step (need a current probe for my scope), and the reason why I was asking for the reference ohm resistance of the coil, if anyone has it. Should be around 3.5/3.7 ohms.

Coil resistances can be found here https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

This says the AE-23-800 has a resistance of 4.2

#3754 12 days ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

So I checked the plunger, nothing odd (plus I don't see how mushrooming can happen on this part)
The plastic cup is fine
I took a scope shoot of the coil (this is the pin that is driven to ground when activating), as you can see no specific issue (less than one micro second, 70v - there is an attenuation of 10 on my probe otherwise I exceed the max input of the scope so the scope shoot shows 7V)
I'm puzzled.... [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

not to pick on your soldering but one thing to try is de solder the wires on one lug and then twist all the wires together and really ensure the solder flows into the wires nd onto the lug. Then repeat for the other lug.

There could be a poor electrical connect with one solder added to the other and not flowed together.

#3755 12 days ago
Quoted from nlrobert:

The lamp board came in this week and I finally got a chance to add the diodes and connector. The new board is now installed. Unfortunately I won't be able to light it up for a few weeks. I won't have the cabinet back together until then.
Thanks Stumblor for the assist. Also, when I ordered the board, they sent me 10 units. So, I have a few extras if anyone needs one.[quoted image]

awesome, and superfast

maybe shoot one to stumblor

#3756 12 days ago

Can’t remember who was making them but it replaces the switch on the bowl. I think it was like an eddy or opto? If so, anyone know if they are still available. Thank you.

#3757 12 days ago
Quoted from robey99:

Can’t remember who was making them but it replaces the switch on the bowl. I think it was like an eddy or opto? If so, anyone know if they are still available. Thank you.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mrs-are-no-longer-unobtanium#post-5420596

I think this is what you are thinking

#3758 12 days ago

Yup sonic is the dude , M&M Creations. He will hook you up. I have one and I get more revolutions than with the old micro switch. Highly recommend.

#3759 12 days ago
Quoted from Devilsmuse:

Yup sonic is the dude , M&M Creations. He will hook you up. I have one and I get more revolutions than with the old micro switch. Highly recommend.

Thanks guys. Just sent him a pm.

#3760 12 days ago
Quoted from Deleenhe:

Thanks fifty , I will line those up (I did wonder what those holes were for on my Diner!). Here's some more shots. The cabinet is new with vinyl graphics vs paint but looks amazing. It has the Mike D hologram mod but I have taken it out, it is not getting power and the flippers are not working so I think there is a broader electrical problem to figure out. I'm sure I will have some questions on that. Another question (one of many), the black sockets in the backbox are mostly empty, not sure why, are these different than the white ones? Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I am happy to say I am now up and running with a beautiful machine! I thought I would share my troubleshooting experience with the VUKs. When I got the machine, the flippers were dead and the lower VUK was firing continuously, balls wouldn't load at the bottom or eject into the shooter lane, lights were out in the backbox. After fixing a couple of broken wires and reseating all the connectors, the remaining problem was then whenever the lower VUK fired, the machine would reboot and sometimes blow fuse F5. After swapping the wires on the VUKs, the problem remained with the lower one. I took the coil out, it looked new. I decided to order another and when I checked the manual I realized that the upper and lower coils were in the wrong place, ie the upper one was AE-26-1200 and the lower was AE-23-800. The manual says they should be opposite. On closer inspection I found that due to the bigger diameter of the yellow -800 coil, it was such a tight fit in the metal housing of the VUK that it was rubbing on the housing and over time had worn through the paper and wire insulation and was shorting to the bracket when it fired, hence the reboot and blowing fuse. I temporarily taped the coil while I order a new one, installed them in their proper locations and everything is working perfectly. The photos below show the -800, it's damage, and the green -1200 now in the correct spot with lots of clearance to the bracket. Thanks to everyone in the other thread here ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/no-flippers-but-work-in-test-menuwpc) who pointed me in various right directions through the process. Now to get the Mike D mod reinstalled and tested...

IMG_4624 (resized).JPGIMG_4627 (resized).JPGIMG_4637 (resized).JPG
#3761 12 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

J'ai mon bricolage mod d'affiche swinks installé. Les instructions qu'il a rassemblées sont super!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

It's a mod that could please me a lot!

#3762 12 days ago
Quoted from crazy79:

It's a mod that could please me a lot!

if you wanted to know more it is the 4th manual down in the kit build section

https://swinks.com.au/manuals

#3763 11 days ago
Quoted from nlrobert:

The lamp board came in this week and I finally got a chance to add the diodes and connector. The new board is now installed. Unfortunately I won't be able to light it up for a few weeks. I won't have the cabinet back together until then.
Thanks Stumblor for the assist. Also, when I ordered the board, they sent me 10 units. So, I have a few extras if anyone needs one.[quoted image]

Looking great Dale!

You may want to beef up those curvy solder pads with some extra solder - they are raised usually on lamp boards (although there's no way to specify that in the plans).

#3764 11 days ago
Quoted from Devilsmuse:

Yup sonic is the dude , M&M Creations. He will hook you up. I have one and I get more revolutions than with the old micro switch. Highly recommend.

I still only get 1 or 2 letters with the MRS. My pin is setup really steep too. I

Quoted from stumblor:

Looking great Dale!
You may want to beef up those curvy solder pads with some extra solder - they are raised usually on lamp boards (although there's no way to specify that in the plans).

You'll definitely want to add solder. Otherwise your F-I-L-M won't light up.

Ashram56 the coil sleeves in deleenhe photos are much shorter than yours. Are yours oriented the proper way?

#3765 11 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

I still only get 1 or 2 letters with the MRS. My pin is setup really steep too.

My Creech isn't overly steep and balls don't come screaming down into my whirlpool, but I can get enough switch hits to fully spell Creature with every ball that comes down into the whirlpool, and that's even with the old style Chery microswitch. However, I do a little sideways nudge on every rotation to keep the ball whipping around the whirlpool to accomplish this. Sometimes I do get one tilt warning from this nudging.

Do you try to nudge the machine to get more rotations or are you just letting the ball do its own thing? Just wondering.

#3766 11 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

I still only get 1 or 2 letters with the MRS. My pin is setup really steep too.

You need to level your Creech bowl from L to R and Top to Bottom. I have an MRS switch and I get 7 revolutions very reliably during game play. I know others have been able to get even more.

Gord

#3767 11 days ago
Quoted from Rum-Z:

My Creech isn't overly steep and balls don't come screaming down into my whirlpool, but I can get enough switch hits to fully spell Creature with every ball that comes down into the whirlpool, and that's even with the old style Chery microswitch. However, I do a little sideways nudge on every rotation to keep the ball whipping around the whirlpool to accomplish this. Sometimes I do get one tilt warning from this nudging.
Do you try to nudge the machine to get more rotations or are you just letting the ball do its own thing? Just wondering.

Usually I just let the ball do it's own thing. If I give her a good nudge I can maybe get 3 rotations.

I have a weird screw/washer setup where the wireform meets the whirlpool. Maybe I need to invest some time in this location to get my rotations up?
ramp (resized).JPG

Quoted from GRB1959:

You need to level your Creech bowl from L to R and Top to Bottom. I have an MRS switch and I get 7 revolutions very reliably during game play. I know others have been able to get even more.
Gord

Leveling it L to R seems easy enough. T to B should be the same pitch as the playfield no?

#3768 11 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Usually I just let the ball do it's own thing. If I give her a good nudge I can maybe get 3 rotations.
I have a weird screw/washer setup where the wireform meets the whirlpool. Maybe I need to invest some time in this location to get my rotations up?
[quoted image]

Leveling it L to R seems easy enough. T to B should be the same pitch as the playfield no?

Fifty I get 5 or 6 revolutions maybe 7 sometimes but, I used to get 3 with the old switch. I had read to Not wax the bowl as the extra slickness will slow the balls roll, it slides more than rolls. So no wax = more rolls.

#3769 11 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Usually I just let the ball do it's own thing. If I give her a good nudge I can maybe get 3 rotations.
I have a weird screw/washer setup where the wireform meets the whirlpool. Maybe I need to invest some time in this location to get my rotations up?
[quoted image]

Leveling it L to R seems easy enough. T to B should be the same pitch as the playfield no?

No, the bowl is offset T to B to counter the pitch of the PF - not sure that mine is perfectly level, as it will be dependent on you PF angle unless you manually adjust the bowl to suit, but I get 4-5 rotations with the micro-switch which is enough for me.

#3770 11 days ago
Quoted from Devilsmuse:

Fifty I get 5 or 6 revolutions maybe 7 sometimes but, I used to get 3 with the old switch. I had read to Not wax the bowl as the extra slickness will slow the balls roll, it slides more than rolls. So no wax = more rolls.

Good to know. I was thinking of waxing it.

Quoted from Manny65:

No, the bowl is offset T to B to counter the pitch of the PF - not sure that mine is perfectly level, as it will be dependent on you PF angle unless you manually adjust the bowl to suit, but I get 4-5 rotations with the micro-switch which is enough for me.

4-5 would be ideal.

How are you guys adjusting the bowl? Do you just add washers underneath?

#3771 11 days ago

I took the MRS switch off as I got so many rotations I felt like I was cheating lol. Put the factory switch back on and I always get 5-6 rotations with a nudge here and there I’m happy with that

#3772 11 days ago
Quoted from Gorgar1:

I took the MRS switch off as I got so many rotations I felt like I was cheating lol. Put the factory switch back on and I always get 5-6 rotations with a nudge here and there I’m happy with that

"noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!"

#3773 11 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

"noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!"

Sorry mate It’s now in another creature being enjoyed

#3774 11 days ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

Those signs are all or mostly made by Miller Engineering so if you dont see them you can go to his site. His shop is fairly close to me so if they will not ship internationaly I may be able to help with that.

I'd have to double check mine but I believe Miller gives you the letters for the marquee so that you can actually put "Creature from the Black Lagoon" on it (or whatever else floats your boat). Also you can program the chase light sequence.

#3775 10 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

"noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!"

I must ask... What is this MRS switch?

Also, mine only does two or three rotations max, so I'm interested into guidance to improve.

Regards

#3776 10 days ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

I must ask... What is this MRS switch?
Also, mine only does two or three rotations max, so I'm interested into guidance to improve.
Regards

MRS is a Magnetic Reed Switch and is used to replace the micro-switch on the bowl - given the MRS does not interfere with the ball's momentum (unlike the micro-switch) you can get more rotations.

As to setting up the improve the rotations the most important thing is that the bowl is relatively level

#3777 10 days ago
Quoted from Jackalwere:

I'd have to double check mine but I believe Miller gives you the letters for the marquee so that you can actually put "Creature from the Black Lagoon" on it (or whatever else floats your boat). Also you can program the chase light sequence.

Yes thats correct, it also comes in 2 diff sizes from Miller.

#3778 10 days ago
Quoted from Gorgar1:

Sorry mate It’s now in another creature being enjoyed

"Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeesssssssssssssssssssssss!"

#3779 10 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

How are you guys adjusting the bowl? Do you just add washers underneath?

I use small washers underneath the bowl to get it close to level. It is a bit of trial an error to get it just right.

Add some washers to the hex post closest to the player and then with the glass off roll a ball down the wireform which feeds the Creech bowl and observe the number of revolutions that you get. Keep adding or subtracting washers to the various bowl hex posts until you get the desired number of revolutions.

Gord

#3780 10 days ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

I use small washers underneath the bowl to get it close to level. It is a bit of trial an error to get it just right.
Add some washers to the hex post closest to the player and then with the glass off roll a ball down the wireform which feeds the Creech bowl and observe the number of revolutions that you get. Keep adding or subtracting washers to the various bowl hex posts until you get the desired number of revolutions.
Gord

I also found the smallest adjustments to where the wire form attaches to the bowl makes a big difference. Drop ball in at top of ramp and see how moving wire form side to side affects the revolutions of ball in bowl. I usually do this several times to get it just right.

265CA6C8-49C3-4462-869E-20507AA68AED (resized).jpeg
#3781 10 days ago

What’s the going rate for a motor for the hologram/mirrror

I have 1 spare

#3782 10 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

MRS is a Magnetic Reed Switch and is used to replace the micro-switch on the bowl - given the MRS does not interfere with the ball's momentum (unlike the micro-switch) you can get more rotations.
As to setting up the improve the rotations the most important thing is that the bowl is relatively level

Thanks, I'll try to adjust the bowl level. But I must say I'm interested into this MRS device, any pointer on how to install and where to find it?

Regards

#3784 10 days ago

Hey folks! I Need your help. I am almost done with my restore! Just testing everything. I am not getting movement in the creature mirror arm.

I probed the leads coming into the motor and on DC it's 0, I tried AC and it's getting 5v... Must be an AC motor? Anyhow any ideas or suggestions on how to test the motor correctly and or the leads coming into it from the controller board in the bottom of the cabinet would be great,
Cheers!

#3785 10 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Hey folks! I Need your help. I am almost done with my restore! Just testing everything. I am not getting movement in the creature mirror arm.
I probed the leads coming into the motor and on DC it's 0, I tried AC and it's getting 5v... Must be an AC motor? Anyhow any ideas or suggestions on how to test the motor correctly and or the leads coming into it from the controller board in the bottom of the cabinet would be great,
Cheers!

did you test / check in the menu that the function is turned on

#3786 10 days ago

Yep i had the test menu open and had the creature test running. Do you know what voltage that motor expects? And is it AC or DC?

#3787 9 days ago

Well good news my motor appears to be working it was kind of odd I powered it and then got the rotation in my hand and helped it did some weird noises and now it’s working however I do think it’s on its way out.

I have now found the next issue; my start button appears to be illuminating with the admit one lamp number 18 that is on the backboard

#3788 8 days ago

Putting out feelers for a fun little mod I came up with. Found an old Creature toy on eBay, primed, painted and varnished it and stuck it between the ramps. Hooked it up to the Rescue bulb with a comet matrix connect and voila. If anyone else is interested I'd be happy to make more. Attached some photos. PM me if you're interested! Here's a video of it going on and off in attract mode: https://imgur.com/gallery/wAAWTk8

IMG_0853 (resized).jpegIMG_0860 (resized).jpegIMG_0871 (resized).jpegIMG_0872 (resized).jpeg
#3789 8 days ago

Well I was doing some research on motors and apparently Williams Hurricane and Gililgans Island use a motor that is VERY similar.I was able to find one and ordered it.

Creature is 50VAC 8-10 RPM, and the Gilligan's one is 50VAC 11RPM. I think 1-2 RPM delta should not matter a whole lot. Will most likely need to make an adapter as I don't think the mounts are identical. Will see how it goes

#3790 8 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Well I was ding some research on motors and apparently Williams Hurricane and Gililgans Island use a motor that is VERY similar.I was able to find one and ordered it.
Creature is 50VAC 8-10 RPM, and the Gilligan's one is 50VAC 11RPM. I think 1-2 RPM should bot matter a whole lot. Will most likely need to make an adapter as I don't thing the mounts are identical. Will see how it goes

also once you get the new motor fitted and operational you probably can investigate and risk pulling the original motor apart as I remember seeing a story / article / thread years ago on pulling the motor apart and re-greasing it

#3791 8 days ago

Putting out feelers for a fun little mod.

Exellent... Excellent

#3792 8 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Well I was doing some research on motors and apparently Williams Hurricane and Gililgans Island use a motor that is VERY similar.I was able to find one and ordered it.
Creature is 50VAC 8-10 RPM, and the Gilligan's one is 50VAC 11RPM. I think 1-2 RPM delta should not matter a whole lot. Will most likely need to make an adapter as I don't think the mounts are identical. Will see how it goes

Back on page 70 I documented using motor a-14593-1, which requires some hacking of the bracket. It won’t work for the mirror motor due to space constraints, but works for the hologram motor.

#3793 8 days ago

Thanks pinjim i took a peek ya that motor you got is slightly different, it’s thicker and yes would most likely not work for the mirror.

#3794 1 day ago

Greetings folks,

What's occurring here? I've tried changing the DMD board fuses, more in hope than expectation, but no joy... board gone?

#3795 1 day ago
Quoted from WinterMillennium:

Greetings folks,
What's occurring here? I've tried changing the DMD board fuses, more in hope than expectation, but no joy... board gone?

Have you checked your ribbon cables?

#3796 1 day ago
Quoted from WinterMillennium:

Greetings folks,
What's occurring here? I've tried changing the DMD board fuses, more in hope than expectation, but no joy... board gone?

I had a similar problem, check the wires on connector J604. I had a bad connection of wire J604-2 to the pin and it was causing tons of "static" on the display and eventually the display periodically going completely blank.

#3797 6 hours ago

My project is finally complete after 1 year. What a journey. I want to thank all of the mod makers out there. Without you, this wouldn’t be nearly as much fun for me (although I would save a lot of money). I would specifically like to thank Swinks, stumblor, Matt at Back Alley, Mezel Mods, Mike D, Pinstadiums, color dmd, comet pinball, pinball life, and so many more. Thank you so much for your contributions and expertise to this great hobby. I still have to adjust the lighting!!

71AD1576-4450-42E9-BF98-FA8489EB4D39 (resized).jpegF5F5C164-63CA-4993-9BC5-50F0314512A2 (resized).jpeg62131B71-18BA-467C-9B48-2253CE065DEB (resized).jpeg34BFC313-CD3F-4839-A092-BB3D94313729 (resized).jpeg
#3798 5 hours ago

Looks amazing! Nicely done!

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