CFTBL- Fans and members welcome!!!

I've taken a oscilloscope shoot (above), and the transistor does switch. What I don't know however is the current draw, that was going to be my next step (need a current probe for my scope), and the reason why I was asking for the reference ohm resistance of the coil, if anyone has it. Should be around 3.5/3.7 ohms.

The lamp board came in this week and I finally got a chance to add the diodes and connector. The new board is now installed. Unfortunately I won't be able to light it up for a few weeks. I won't have the cabinet back together until then.

Thanks Stumblor for the assist. Also, when I ordered the board, they sent me 10 units. So, I have a few extras if anyone needs one.

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Coil resistances can be found here https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

This says the AE-23-800 has a resistance of 4.2

not to pick on your soldering but one thing to try is de solder the wires on one lug and then twist all the wires together and really ensure the solder flows into the wires nd onto the lug. Then repeat for the other lug.

There could be a poor electrical connect with one solder added to the other and not flowed together.

awesome, and superfast

maybe shoot one to stumblor

Can’t remember who was making them but it replaces the switch on the bowl. I think it was like an eddy or opto? If so, anyone know if they are still available. Thank you.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mrs-are-no-longer-unobtanium#post-5420596

I think this is what you are thinking

Yup sonic is the dude , M&M Creations. He will hook you up. I have one and I get more revolutions than with the old micro switch. Highly recommend.

Thanks guys. Just sent him a pm.

I am happy to say I am now up and running with a beautiful machine! I thought I would share my troubleshooting experience with the VUKs. When I got the machine, the flippers were dead and the lower VUK was firing continuously, balls wouldn't load at the bottom or eject into the shooter lane, lights were out in the backbox. After fixing a couple of broken wires and reseating all the connectors, the remaining problem was then whenever the lower VUK fired, the machine would reboot and sometimes blow fuse F5. After swapping the wires on the VUKs, the problem remained with the lower one. I took the coil out, it looked new. I decided to order another and when I checked the manual I realized that the upper and lower coils were in the wrong place, ie the upper one was AE-26-1200 and the lower was AE-23-800. The manual says they should be opposite. On closer inspection I found that due to the bigger diameter of the yellow -800 coil, it was such a tight fit in the metal housing of the VUK that it was rubbing on the housing and over time had worn through the paper and wire insulation and was shorting to the bracket when it fired, hence the reboot and blowing fuse. I temporarily taped the coil while I order a new one, installed them in their proper locations and everything is working perfectly. The photos below show the -800, it's damage, and the green -1200 now in the correct spot with lots of clearance to the bracket. Thanks to everyone in the other thread here ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/no-flippers-but-work-in-test-menuwpc) who pointed me in various right directions through the process. Now to get the Mike D mod reinstalled and tested...

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It's a mod that could please me a lot!

if you wanted to know more it is the 4th manual down in the kit build section

https://swinks.com.au/manuals

Looking great Dale!

You may want to beef up those curvy solder pads with some extra solder - they are raised usually on lamp boards (although there's no way to specify that in the plans).

I still only get 1 or 2 letters with the MRS. My pin is setup really steep too. I

You'll definitely want to add solder. Otherwise your F-I-L-M won't light up.

Ashram56 the coil sleeves in deleenhe photos are much shorter than yours. Are yours oriented the proper way?

My Creech isn't overly steep and balls don't come screaming down into my whirlpool, but I can get enough switch hits to fully spell Creature with every ball that comes down into the whirlpool, and that's even with the old style Chery microswitch. However, I do a little sideways nudge on every rotation to keep the ball whipping around the whirlpool to accomplish this. Sometimes I do get one tilt warning from this nudging.

Do you try to nudge the machine to get more rotations or are you just letting the ball do its own thing? Just wondering.

You need to level your Creech bowl from L to R and Top to Bottom. I have an MRS switch and I get 7 revolutions very reliably during game play. I know others have been able to get even more.

Gord

Usually I just let the ball do it's own thing. If I give her a good nudge I can maybe get 3 rotations.

I have a weird screw/washer setup where the wireform meets the whirlpool. Maybe I need to invest some time in this location to get my rotations up?
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Leveling it L to R seems easy enough. T to B should be the same pitch as the playfield no?

Fifty I get 5 or 6 revolutions maybe 7 sometimes but, I used to get 3 with the old switch. I had read to Not wax the bowl as the extra slickness will slow the balls roll, it slides more than rolls. So no wax = more rolls.

No, the bowl is offset T to B to counter the pitch of the PF - not sure that mine is perfectly level, as it will be dependent on you PF angle unless you manually adjust the bowl to suit, but I get 4-5 rotations with the micro-switch which is enough for me.

Good to know. I was thinking of waxing it.

4-5 would be ideal.

How are you guys adjusting the bowl? Do you just add washers underneath?

I took the MRS switch off as I got so many rotations I felt like I was cheating lol. Put the factory switch back on and I always get 5-6 rotations with a nudge here and there I’m happy with that

"noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!"

Sorry mate It’s now in another creature being enjoyed

I'd have to double check mine but I believe Miller gives you the letters for the marquee so that you can actually put "Creature from the Black Lagoon" on it (or whatever else floats your boat). Also you can program the chase light sequence.

I must ask... What is this MRS switch?

Also, mine only does two or three rotations max, so I'm interested into guidance to improve.

Regards

MRS is a Magnetic Reed Switch and is used to replace the micro-switch on the bowl - given the MRS does not interfere with the ball's momentum (unlike the micro-switch) you can get more rotations.

As to setting up the improve the rotations the most important thing is that the bowl is relatively level

Yes thats correct, it also comes in 2 diff sizes from Miller.

"Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeesssssssssssssssssssssss!"

I use small washers underneath the bowl to get it close to level. It is a bit of trial an error to get it just right.

Add some washers to the hex post closest to the player and then with the glass off roll a ball down the wireform which feeds the Creech bowl and observe the number of revolutions that you get. Keep adding or subtracting washers to the various bowl hex posts until you get the desired number of revolutions.

Gord

I also found the smallest adjustments to where the wire form attaches to the bowl makes a big difference. Drop ball in at top of ramp and see how moving wire form side to side affects the revolutions of ball in bowl. I usually do this several times to get it just right.

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What’s the going rate for a motor for the hologram/mirrror

I have 1 spare

Thanks, I'll try to adjust the bowl level. But I must say I'm interested into this MRS device, any pointer on how to install and where to find it?

Regards

The search engine is your friend: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mrs-are-no-longer-unobtanium#post-5420596

Hey folks! I Need your help. I am almost done with my restore! Just testing everything. I am not getting movement in the creature mirror arm.

I probed the leads coming into the motor and on DC it's 0, I tried AC and it's getting 5v... Must be an AC motor? Anyhow any ideas or suggestions on how to test the motor correctly and or the leads coming into it from the controller board in the bottom of the cabinet would be great,
Cheers!

did you test / check in the menu that the function is turned on

Yep i had the test menu open and had the creature test running. Do you know what voltage that motor expects? And is it AC or DC?

Well good news my motor appears to be working it was kind of odd I powered it and then got the rotation in my hand and helped it did some weird noises and now it’s working however I do think it’s on its way out.

I have now found the next issue; my start button appears to be illuminating with the admit one lamp number 18 that is on the backboard

Putting out feelers for a fun little mod I came up with. Found an old Creature toy on eBay, primed, painted and varnished it and stuck it between the ramps. Hooked it up to the Rescue bulb with a comet matrix connect and voila. If anyone else is interested I'd be happy to make more. Attached some photos. PM me if you're interested! Here's a video of it going on and off in attract mode: https://imgur.com/gallery/wAAWTk8

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Well I was doing some research on motors and apparently Williams Hurricane and Gililgans Island use a motor that is VERY similar.I was able to find one and ordered it.

Creature is 50VAC 8-10 RPM, and the Gilligan's one is 50VAC 11RPM. I think 1-2 RPM delta should not matter a whole lot. Will most likely need to make an adapter as I don't think the mounts are identical. Will see how it goes

also once you get the new motor fitted and operational you probably can investigate and risk pulling the original motor apart as I remember seeing a story / article / thread years ago on pulling the motor apart and re-greasing it

Putting out feelers for a fun little mod.

Exellent... Excellent

Back on page 70 I documented using motor a-14593-1, which requires some hacking of the bracket. It won’t work for the mirror motor due to space constraints, but works for the hologram motor.

Thanks pinjim i took a peek ya that motor you got is slightly different, it’s thicker and yes would most likely not work for the mirror.

Greetings folks,

What's occurring here? I've tried changing the DMD board fuses, more in hope than expectation, but no joy... board gone?

Have you checked your ribbon cables?

I had a similar problem, check the wires on connector J604. I had a bad connection of wire J604-2 to the pin and it was causing tons of "static" on the display and eventually the display periodically going completely blank.

My project is finally complete after 1 year. What a journey. I want to thank all of the mod makers out there. Without you, this wouldn’t be nearly as much fun for me (although I would save a lot of money). I would specifically like to thank Swinks, stumblor, Matt at Back Alley, Mezel Mods, Mike D, Pinstadiums, color dmd, comet pinball, pinball life, and so many more. Thank you so much for your contributions and expertise to this great hobby. I still have to adjust the lighting!!

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Looks amazing! Nicely done!