New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 79267)

CFTBL- Fans and members welcome!!!


By vilant

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,220 posts
  • 360 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by gunstarhero
  • Topic is favorited by 200 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,084 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

AA4F34BD-6B83-4480-A171-91C9B0C92600 (resized).jpeg
hotpink (resized).JPG
lightpink (resized).JPG
IMG_9911 (resized).JPG
IMG_9910 (resized).JPG
IMG_9909 (resized).JPG
6E4D44B6-9A62-464D-9CF0-3F3E338DABDC (resized).jpeg
A8108337-C0C0-4D11-8584-6DA78EB66215 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3928 - Version 2 (resized).JPG
9FD5816E-F380-4B81-A5C6-3F3E63F6ED78 (resized).jpeg
IMG_4072 (resized).jpg
IMG_4071 (resized).jpg
IMG_3948 (resized).JPG
IMG_3949 (resized).JPG
IMG_3947 (resized).JPG
IMG_3945 (resized).JPG

There are 3220 posts in this topic. You are on page 59 of 65.
#2901 5 months ago

Baby creech

7F08CEF5-24BB-45C5-888E-84BE9C6BCBDF (resized).jpeg
#2902 5 months ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Struggling to choose side art options..
Do I go with: Lagoon, Cars with lagoon behind, Cars with night sky, or just mirror blades..[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Tilt Graffix swamp looks great with the back plastic. That is the one I used.

#2903 5 months ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

I’m also asking for pictures of the Chase lights in Green LED or Purple LED comet bulbs..
What have fellow CFTBL collectors done?
Thanks

I have Comet purple in the bowl and ramp. Looks great. Game has lots of green already. You will really notice the lights when that purple lights up.

#2904 5 months ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

I’m also asking for pictures of the Chase lights in Green LED or Purple LED comet bulbs..
What have fellow CFTBL collectors done?
Thanks

Did purple and white as green was unavailable at the time. Comet LEDs.

Here's a video:

#2905 5 months ago

Thanks npo looks great!

I’m thinking maybe green & purple- alternate bulbs...

May look cool.. trial & error..

#2906 5 months ago

I had green leds in the bowl and ramp, but took them out. Creech need incandescants in my opinion. I do some leds under the playfield, to brighten up the inserts. With correct warm whites not to muc ghosting that will work for me. I did the bowl in green incandescant, just dipped them in glas paint.

#2907 5 months ago

That’s it... this Lockdown is going to cost me a fortune!
Pinsound + board ordered, with speakers and
Shaker motor kit..
new side art ordered
New led mini bulbs
New chase light board..
new Mirrored backglass

That’s like £1000.. gotta look after the older games, CFTBL will never leave the collection

#2908 5 months ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

That’s it... this Lockdown is going to cost me a fortune!
Pinsound + board ordered, with speakers and
Shaker motor kit..
new side art ordered
New led mini bulbs
New chase light board..
new Mirrored backglass
That’s like £1000.. gotta look after the older games, CFTBL will never leave the collection

Haha, indeed this lockdown cost me a lot, New ColorDMD, mods for JPLE, speaker kit, a vacation would be cheaper;-. All machines in top condition for weeks to come!

#2909 5 months ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Struggling to choose side art options..
Do I go with: Lagoon, Cars with lagoon behind, Cars with night sky, or just mirror blades..[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If you go with the lagoon let me know before you order and I will sell you mine for 1/2 the cost. I ordered a set and then decided not to use them.

#2910 5 months ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

I’m also asking for pictures of the Chase lights in Green LED or Purple LED comet bulbs..
What have fellow CFTBL collectors done?
Thanks

I just ordered the white ones from comet and plan to dye the nylon [socket] portion black so that they look more like the incandescent versions.
I wasn't a fan of either the green or purple (just over the top in my opinion) and the fact the nylon sockets were an off putting corresponding green/purple

#2911 5 months ago
Quoted from Jackalwere:

My Creature is now about 95% done. Just a couple of nagging minor issues (one outlane switch not working, one stuck ball). I'm also not sure my reed switch is working properly, had both balls in the whirlpool but only a fixed score of 2 million on the screen. Still need to install animated marquee sign, DMD panel lighted taillight mod, new ramp and whirlpool lights, and Swinks snackbar v3 upgrade. I've put a couple dozen games on it so far, Mirco playfield still looks great. Currently has:
LED kit from Pinball Bulbs
MikeD Hologram video mod
Swinks v1 lighted snackbar
Pinsound+ with Wool's Sound Effects and over 90 of my favorite songs from 50s and early 60s
Mirco playfield
Titans matched to playfield colors
Plastic posts matched to playfield colors
All new playfield plastics
All new coils
Hand polished all metal pieces
Cleaned boards and reflowed solder joints
Before and after photos:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

So............no shit, would you recommend putting down $1000 for a mirco PF? You feel confident everything is going to hold up with the upcoming wear and tear of playing the game? You going to put a PF protector on?

I know I've pinged you a lot on this - my apologies for that. $1000 is a lot of money to take a chance, and you're the only one I know that has actually swapped a PF with a mirco since they came out.

Has the clearcoat gotten any better/harder?

#2912 5 months ago

Hi I'm after a bowl board preferably with lamp sockets if anyone has one for sale. Otherwise can these be obtained anywhere ?

#2913 5 months ago

mark000 i recently tried to find one with no luck, they may be out there but I couldn’t find any. Maybe Australia or Germany?

#2914 5 months ago

Mine has the bulbs soldered to the board so it still works. Marco used to sell the boards not anymore. My game is restored but thats one issue I'd like to fix. By the way I'm loving your Resto

#2915 5 months ago
Quoted from NPO:

So............no shit, would you recommend putting down $1000 for a mirco PF? You feel confident everything is going to hold up with the upcoming wear and tear of playing the game? You going to put a PF protector on?
I know I've pinged you a lot on this - my apologies for that. $1000 is a lot of money to take a chance, and you're the only one I know that has actually swapped a PF with a mirco since they came out.
Has the clearcoat gotten any better/harder?

Well, I'm no Nostradamus, so I'd say the jury's still out. The main reason I switched was because my original playfield had bare wood showing through, had 80k+ plays on it, and I purchased my game for $2K shipped so I felt I had some wiggle room in terms of value. I'm still nervous that over time I will develop issues, but right now I'm a lot happier looking at this playfield than the one with bare wood showing.

I'll take some updated closeup photos of the playfield this weekend and post here. In fact I'll pull the left sling back off and see what the playfield looks like under the teflon washer that I put under the star post, where I initially noticed the indention of the clear.

#2916 5 months ago
Quoted from Jackalwere:

Well, I'm no Nostradamus, so I'd say the jury's still out. The main reason I switched was because my original playfield had bare wood showing through, had 80k+ plays on it, and I purchased my game for $2K shipped so I felt I had some wiggle room in terms of value. I'm still nervous that over time I will develop issues, but right now I'm a lot happier looking at this playfield than the one with bare wood showing.
I'll take some updated closeup photos of the playfield this weekend and post here. In fact I'll pull the left sling back off and see what the playfield looks like under the teflon washer that I put under the star post, where I initially noticed the indention of the clear.

All your insights are much appreciated. You are the only person I know with one of these. Thanks for your patience with all of my questions. I'm thinking just snag a PF and a PF protector to be 200% safe and calling it a day.

#2917 5 months ago

Looking forward to seeing jackalwere

#2918 5 months ago

welp, Looks like I either threw out lost, or the sock god took the tiny ball guide that sites just left of the kiss hole. Does anyone have any idea where I may be able to find one of these... I already have a feeling this is going to be something I will have to get made. Thank you for any help
IMG_2459-2 (resized).jpg

BG (resized).jpg
#2919 5 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

welp, Looks like I either threw out lost, or the sock god took the tiny ball guide that sites just left of the kiss hole. Does anyone have any idea where I may be able to find one of these... I already have a feeling this is going to be something I will have to get made. Thank you for any help
[quoted image][quoted image]

I know you want to put it back in there, but I'm wondering why it was put there in the first place. It's between two rail guides, and there's a post to prevent the ball from even thinking of going that way before entering the scoop.

#2920 5 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

welp, Looks like I either threw out lost, or the sock god took the tiny ball guide that sites just left of the kiss hole. Does anyone have any idea where I may be able to find one of these... I already have a feeling this is going to be something I will have to get made. Thank you for any help
[quoted image][quoted image]

I think that the tiny ball guide that you are seeking is actually part of a longer ball guide as shown in the photos below. Good luck in your search.

Gord

P1000542 (resized).JPG
P1000544 (resized).JPG

#2921 5 months ago

Yes totally thank you for comments that’s why I drained my post total bonehead move over here haha I had the ball guide but I go off my reference photos and from my photo it looked like a tiny guide haha

#2922 5 months ago

Need some help troubleshooting CFTBL left flipper-

I'm stumped and could use some guidance. My left flipper hold has been acting weird for a while: won't hold, intermittent hold. Orange/blue wire to coil was loose, soldered it back on. Hold was still intermittent, but worked most of the time. Last night it stopped holding at all. Broke out the multimeter and there is no voltage to the lug on the left (in first photo) - the orange/blue wire. Other two lugs (and entire right flipper) has 73V. There is continuity on all wires back to Fliptronic board - but no diodes on the left flipper coil! The right side has diodes, the service manual diagram says there should be diodes on bot, but there are no diodes on left coil (see pics). What gives?

And what should I troubleshoot next to figure out why there is no hold on this side? The optos have been cleaned and appear to work fine. EOS switches are working fine. Fuses on Fliptronic are good. From left to right looking at the back of the left flipper coil, lug 1 (furthest left) =orange/blue for holding, lug 2 (middle) =Blue/grey for regular flipper power, lug 3 (left, towards right flipper coil) = grey/yellow (power from Fliptronic board?).

Suggestions on what to do next?

IMG_4402 (resized).jpgIMG_4403 (resized).jpg
#2923 5 months ago

Question - I am looking to add a mod to my CFTBL that requires power from the main board (Swinks Snackbar Mod RGB controller for neon strips). I bought a Mezel Mod power tap that goes into J116. I bought my CFTBL heavily modded and upon inspection it looks like there is already not one but two power tap splitters there already for mods (including the color changing speaker panel mod and something else that I cant quite tell). Is there any risk to daisy chaining a third power tap into that sequence so I have somewhere to plug in the RGB controller? I read elsewhere that the number of splits on one particular slot (in this case J116) does not matter but the total draw on the board is what matters. I already have a no-reset board that has perfectly dealt with my reset issue (happened almost every game). Should I be cautious to plug in the RGB controller or as long as daisy chained its fine? I put the new mezel mod power tap into J116 and put the existing daisy chain into that and turned on the game (without adding the RGB controller) and everything ran fine, including existing mods. Just checking w the forum before taking final step and plugging the actual RGB mod to it. I'm probably being a wimp but in the lockdown not getting a pinball tech over any time soon to fix any *real* problems I create so thought I would solicit opinions first. Thanks all

#2924 5 months ago
Quoted from NJNeil:

Question - I am looking to add a mod to my CFTBL that requires power from the main board (Swinks Snackbar Mod RGB controller for neon strips). I bought a Mezel Mod power tap that goes into J116. I bought my CFTBL heavily modded and upon inspection it looks like there is already not one but two power tap splitters there already for mods (including the color changing speaker panel mod and something else that I cant quite tell). Is there any risk to daisy chaining a third power tap into that sequence so I have somewhere to plug in the RGB controller? I read elsewhere that the number of splits on one particular slot (in this case J116) does not matter but the total draw on the board is what matters. I already have a no-reset board that has perfectly dealt with my reset issue (happened almost every game). Should I be cautious to plug in the RGB controller or as long as daisy chained its fine? I put the new mezel mod power tap into J116 and put the existing daisy chain into that and turned on the game (without adding the RGB controller) and everything ran fine, including existing mods. Just checking w the forum before taking final step and plugging the actual RGB mod to it. I'm probably being a wimp but in the lockdown not getting a pinball tech over any time soon to fix any *real* problems I create so thought I would solicit opinions first. Thanks all

Things in series will start dropping the voltage. Things in parallel will start dropping the current. Depending on what "daisy chain" means to you (you might think of it as things wired in parallel when in all actuality things are wired in series), you could experience symptoms from random resets to things not lighting up/powering up properly.

I'd get an external power supply that can do +/- 12V and +/- 5v, run it off its own wall plug source and call it a day.

With 2 power taps already and you're considering adding a third, your CFTBL is going to have its power maxed out and things will probably start getting weird.

#2925 5 months ago

check inside your cabinet near the coin door as US games tended to have a 120 vdc power outlet in the same box that covers the switch to turn the machine on then plug in power in a power pack as at this point the power won't affect the board power. PinballMikeD use to have a power pack that plugged into this location for his hologram lcd mod.

Admittedly I did not consider the power draw of other mods when I did the rgb option - my apologies

#2926 5 months ago

Thanks both. I plugged it all in and is working fine. I think the no-reset board I had already installed helps. Swinks - really looks great!

#2927 5 months ago
Quoted from NJNeil:

I think the no-reset board I had already installed helps.

WRONG.

That board is one of the worst things to happen in a long time. It gives people a false sense of security. Once your 12V circuit starts to falter (where it pulls the alternate power from), you'll start experiencing resets and a whole bunch of other problems. Then the "magic bullet" board will be as useful as a flat tire.

Trust me. I know. Had that reset board in my TAF, and even with it my machine wouldn't even boot the voltage was so low.

It took fixing the problem the correct way, which admittedly took a lot of learning, reading, researching, and trouble-shooting. I have enjoyed my TAF reset free for a couple years now.

It is just a matter of time as some Pinsiders are starting to find out: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/demo-man-reset-issues

#2928 5 months ago
Quoted from NPO:

That board is one of the worst things to happen in a long time.

That's a pretty harsh thing to say.

#2929 5 months ago
Quoted from NJNeil:

Question - I am looking to add a mod to my CFTBL that requires power from the main board (Swinks Snackbar Mod RGB controller for neon strips). I bought a Mezel Mod power tap that goes into J116. I bought my CFTBL heavily modded and upon inspection it looks like there is already not one but two power tap splitters there already for mods (including the color changing speaker panel mod and something else that I cant quite tell). Is there any risk to daisy chaining a third power tap into that sequence so I have somewhere to plug in the RGB controller? I read elsewhere that the number of splits on one particular slot (in this case J116) does not matter but the total draw on the board is what matters. I already have a no-reset board that has perfectly dealt with my reset issue (happened almost every game). Should I be cautious to plug in the RGB controller or as long as daisy chained its fine? I put the new mezel mod power tap into J116 and put the existing daisy chain into that and turned on the game (without adding the RGB controller) and everything ran fine, including existing mods. Just checking w the forum before taking final step and plugging the actual RGB mod to it. I'm probably being a wimp but in the lockdown not getting a pinball tech over any time soon to fix any *real* problems I create so thought I would solicit opinions first. Thanks all

I too have had added alot of lighting mods to my Bally/Williams 90's machines. After two to three added plugs to J116, J117 and J118 thought like you it was time to remove the additional power to a separate source. My Twilight Zone looked like a mess in and around the area in the head. Did some checking and read of this company Mypinballs Electronics Mod Power Expander Board for WPC and WPC-95 Games https://mypinballs.com/electronics/store.jsp made a board specifically for this. I purchased two of these, one for my Creature and Twilight Zone. I mounted it in the lower left side of the bottom cabinet and added a separate 110V power source from the main power supply (that switches on/off with the cabinet switch). This got the mess out of the head and gave me peace of mind that I am not over loading the power driver board. This board is a bit expensive, but worth it.
Good luck....Mike

#2930 5 months ago

Mike - that's super helpful to call out this expander board. Will pick one up....

#2931 5 months ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

I too have had added alot of lighting mods to my Bally/Williams 90's machines. After two to three added plugs to J116, J117 and J118 thought like you it was time to remove the additional power to a separate source. My Twilight Zone looked like a mess in and around the area in the head. Did some checking and read of this company Mypinballs Electronics Mod Power Expander Board for WPC and WPC-95 Games https://mypinballs.com/electronics/store.jsp made a board specifically for this. I purchased two of these, one for my Creature and Twilight Zone. I mounted it in the lower left side of the bottom cabinet and added a separate 110V power source from the main power supply (that switches on/off with the cabinet switch). This got the mess out of the head and gave me peace of mind that I am not over loading the power driver board. This board is a bit expensive, but worth it.
Good luck....Mike

Curious about this board... did you get the board that has power for 5V outputs too? How many mods can be connected to this board? Do you happen to have a picture of how yours is configured? From the main power supply to the expander board. Sorry for all the questions and thanks for your time.

#2932 5 months ago
Quoted from gac:

Curious about this board... did you get the board that has power for 5V outputs too? How many mods can be connected to this board? Do you happen to have a picture of how yours is configured? From the main power supply to the expander board. Sorry for all the questions and thanks for your time.

Hi gac,
Good questions, here are the answers.
Yes, I did purchase the expander board with the option of 5V and 12V. This way I can choose either one by simply by where the wires are configured on the plug on the mod being plugged in.
There are 8 plug-ins on this board for mods. 8 12V or 8 5V or a combination of both, but 8 total.
Buying this board comes with it's own power supply that plugs into 120V AC. I modified (added to) the out going connection by the transformer the line for the power supply. The cable that comes with the kit has different colors than what we are use to here in the USA. That's because this company that makes this expansion board is out of our country. By some diagnostic work I was able to figure (see picture) that green was ground, blue was white (neutral) and brown was black (hot). In the long run I was just wanting a 120V power source that turns on/off with the cabinet switch.
Also you can see that I mounted this expansion board in the lower left side of the bottom cabinet. I did this mainly to eliminate more wires in the head and that most of the added mods are on the playfield.
I chose this board because it expanded the same style of plugs off the driver board j116, j117 and j118. Also because most of the mods people make plug into these plugs.
Hope this helps, ask me for any more help and I will answer the best I can. Good luck....Mike

20200421_081622 (resized).jpg20200421_081638 (resized).jpg20200421_081803 (resized).jpg20200421_081905 (resized).jpg
#2933 5 months ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Hi gac,
Good questions, here are the answers.
Yes, I did purchase the expander board with the option of 5V and 12V. This way I can choose either one by simply by where the wires are configured on the plug on the mod being plugged in.
There are 8 plug-ins on this board for mods. 8 12V or 8 5V or a combination of both, but 8 total.
Buying this board comes with it's own power supply that plugs into 120V AC. I modified (added to) the out going connection by the transformer the line for the power supply. The cable that comes with the kit has different colors than what we are use to here in the USA. That's because this company that makes this expansion board is out of our country. By some diagnostic work I was able to figure (see picture) that green was ground, blue was white (neutral) and brown was black (hot). In the long run I was just wanting a 120V power source that turns on/off with the cabinet switch.
Also you can see that I mounted this expansion board in the lower left side of the bottom cabinet. I did this mainly to eliminate more wires in the head and that most of the added mods are on the playfield.
I chose this board because it expanded the same style of plugs off the driver board j116, j117 and j118. Also because most of the mods people make plug into these plugs.
Hope this helps, ask me for any more help and I will answer the best I can. Good luck....Mike[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for this info. I sell 5v video mods, but all my harnesses, and all the other mods on Mezelmods' website are set-up with the 3-pin Molex connector that Stern used for its Aux plug (by the service box). Mezelmods sells dongles for the DE, WPC(95), and SPIKE(2) games that are pretty cheap (most under $15), so this board will still work with our SAM/Whitestar style 3-pin plug. Like you said, the expander board is a little expensive (a little over $100 US?), but having 8 options without putting any strain on the driver board is HUGE!

You said you "modified" and "...in the long run I was just wanting a 120v power source that turns on/off with the cabinet switch." This is ideal. How is the expander board normally powered on? You said it has its own 120v AC. Does it have its own switch that has to be powered on separately from the game?

Most customers wouldn't be able to modify the way you did, but a plug 'n' play cable wouldn't be that expensive to provide for WPC(95) users, correct?

When customers are leery about buying mods in fear of putting strain on their power supply, I'd like to be able to provide them with smart options.

If you're willing, I'd like more details on that outgoing connection by the transformer. It's unused, correct?

#2934 5 months ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Hi gac,
Good questions, here are the answers.
Yes, I did purchase the expander board with the option of 5V and 12V. This way I can choose either one by simply by where the wires are configured on the plug on the mod being plugged in.
There are 8 plug-ins on this board for mods. 8 12V or 8 5V or a combination of both, but 8 total.
Buying this board comes with it's own power supply that plugs into 120V AC. I modified (added to) the out going connection by the transformer the line for the power supply. The cable that comes with the kit has different colors than what we are use to here in the USA. That's because this company that makes this expansion board is out of our country. By some diagnostic work I was able to figure (see picture) that green was ground, blue was white (neutral) and brown was black (hot). In the long run I was just wanting a 120V power source that turns on/off with the cabinet switch.
Also you can see that I mounted this expansion board in the lower left side of the bottom cabinet. I did this mainly to eliminate more wires in the head and that most of the added mods are on the playfield.
I chose this board because it expanded the same style of plugs off the driver board j116, j117 and j118. Also because most of the mods people make plug into these plugs.
Hope this helps, ask me for any more help and I will answer the best I can. Good luck....Mike[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for all of the information Mike. How do you know which plug-ins are 12V or 5V? You say it's 8 12V or 8 5V or a combination of both?? I'm not understanding how this works.

#2935 5 months ago

8 positions and they are 3 pins each, I would think a ground pin and a 12 volt pin and a 5 volt pin. This would be my guess.

#2936 5 months ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

8 positions and they are 3 pins each, I would think a ground pin and a 12 volt pin and a 5 volt pin. This would be my guess.

So then I'm guessing that whatever mod being plugged into it determines which pin (either 12V or 5V) is being used. In other words, a 12 volt mod would not have a wire on it's connector where the 5 volt pin would be... only one for the 12V pin and ground pin. Correct?

#2937 5 months ago
Quoted from gac:

So then I'm guessing that whatever mod being plugged into it determines which pin (either 12V or 5V) is being used. In other words, a 12 volt mod would not have a wire on it's connector where the 5 volt pin would be... only one for the 12V pin and ground pin. Correct?

Yes, that's correct. I believe ColorDMD might be the only mod that uses both the 12v/5v, but I think their connector would work on this 8-way, as well.

#2938 5 months ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

I too have had added alot of lighting mods to my Bally/Williams 90's machines. After two to three added plugs to J116, J117 and J118 thought like you it was time to remove the additional power to a separate source. My Twilight Zone looked like a mess in and around the area in the head. Did some checking and read of this company Mypinballs Electronics Mod Power Expander Board for WPC and WPC-95 Games https://mypinballs.com/electronics/store.jsp made a board specifically for this. I purchased two of these, one for my Creature and Twilight Zone. I mounted it in the lower left side of the bottom cabinet and added a separate 110V power source from the main power supply (that switches on/off with the cabinet switch). This got the mess out of the head and gave me peace of mind that I am not over loading the power driver board. This board is a bit expensive, but worth it.
Good luck....Mike

Hi Mike - You say you added a 110V power source. The board does not come with a power source? I would want something like you have in the picture that I could plug into the auxiliary outlet on the main power supply of the machine. I would not want to have to make a molex connector... just a regular grounded plug to go into a regular outlet. Thanks for your input. EDIT: I see that you said in your first post that the board comes with the a 120V power supply. This is what I would want ... with a normal outlet plug. Please confirm I'm thinking correctly. Thanks again.

#2939 5 months ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

8 positions and they are 3 pins each, I would think a ground pin and a 12 volt pin and a 5 volt pin. This would be my guess.

Thanks fiberdude.

#2940 5 months ago
Quoted from Sparky:

Yes, that's correct. I believe ColorDMD might be the only mod that uses both the 12v/5v, but I think their connector would work on this 8-way, as well.

Thanks Sparky.

#2941 5 months ago

You said you "modified" and "...in the long run I was just wanting a 120v power source that turns on/off with the cabinet switch." This is ideal. How is the expander board normally powered on? You said it has its own 120v AC. Does it have its own switch that has to be powered on separately from the game?

Okay let me see if I can clarify this. When you purchase this kit you get the board and a power transformer with a power cord for powering the transformer along with a second cord that runs from the transformer to the board. The power cord is to be connected to a 120V power source of your choice.

I wanted to be able to power this board on/off without having to plug it in every time I wanted to play as the kit doesn't come with an on/off switch. So I like a clean look. Note: There is a power cord/outlet usually by the lower right side of the inside of the cabinet. This power source usually does not turn on/off with the underside cabinet switch and is usually used for a power source for your soldering iron.
So I found where the incoming 120V power source that does turn on/off with the cabinet switch at the plug connection by the transformer. I removed the two pins (one white/neutral and black/hot) and added the power cord connection there along tapping the ground wire on the side of the cabinet.

Once this is installed by turning on the cabinet switch you also turn on the power for the transformer that powers the expansion board.

I know this is not a plug in play and someone could make a connecting plug adapter for this 120V connection for those who would want it. I just did it for my self.

20200421_081803 (resized).jpg
#2942 5 months ago

Most customers wouldn't be able to modify the way you did, but a plug 'n' play cable wouldn't be that expensive to provide for WPC(95) users, correct?
When customers are leery about buying mods in fear of putting strain on their power supply, I'd like to be able to provide them with smart options.
If you're willing, I'd like more details on that outgoing connection by the transformer. It's unused, correct?

Yes, an adapter/plug connection at the transformer would not be too hard to make and not very expensive.
The connector where I plugged my power source for the expansion board transformer in is used as this is the connecting spot for power to the main pinball transformer. It was just an easy location to catch 120V that turned on/off with the cabinet switch.

#2943 5 months ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

You said you "modified" and "...in the long run I was just wanting a 120v power source that turns on/off with the cabinet switch." This is ideal. How is the expander board normally powered on? You said it has its own 120v AC. Does it have its own switch that has to be powered on separately from the game?
Okay let me see if I can clarify this. When you purchase this kit you get the board and a power transformer with a power cord for powering the transformer along with a second cord that runs from the transformer to the board. The power cord is to be connected to a 120V power source of your choice.
I wanted to be able to power this board on/off without having to plug it in every time I wanted to play as the kit doesn't come with an on/off switch. So I like a clean look. Note: There is a power cord/outlet usually by the lower right side of the inside of the cabinet. This power source usually does not turn on/off with the underside cabinet switch and is usually used for a power source for your soldering iron.
So I found where the incoming 120V power source that does turn on/off with the cabinet switch at the plug connection by the transformer. I removed the two pins (one white/neutral and black/hot) and added the power cord connection there along tapping the ground wire on the side of the cabinet.
Once this is installed by turning on the cabinet switch you also turn on the power for the transformer that powers the expansion board.
I know this is not a plug in play and someone could make a connecting plug adapter for this 120V connection for those who would want it. I just did it for my self.[quoted image]

Thanks again Mike for your explanations and information. Having a regular three pronged plug that can go into the plug that you mention as a power source for a soldering iron (how true is that!) is what I want. A while back I had added that outlet in my TAF to have power only when the game switch is turned on (my TAF is a reimport so there was no outlet there originally). Honestly don't remember how I did it as I'm not electrically inclined but it was done.

#2944 5 months ago
Quoted from gac:

Thanks for all of the information Mike. How do you know which plug-ins are 12V or 5V? You say it's 8 12V or 8 5V or a combination of both?? I'm not understanding how this works.

I attached a picture of part of the installation instructions that comes with the expansion board. Yes, like others noted on the 3 prong connector (its 4 prong, but only 3 being used) has both choices for voltage on them. The far left as 5V next plug being GND (ground) and the third one 12V. The four one is not used as it's a pin plug so that you don't plug the connector in backwards. Take a look at the picture lower left. Hope this helps.
20200422_084048 (resized).jpg

#2945 5 months ago
Quoted from gac:

Hi Mike - You say you added a 110V power source. The board does not come with a power source? I would want something like you have in the picture that I could plug into the auxiliary outlet on the main power supply of the machine. I would not want to have to make a molex connector... just a regular grounded plug to go into a regular outlet. Thanks for your input. EDIT: I see that you said in your first post that the board comes with the a 120V power supply. This is what I would want ... with a normal outlet plug. Please confirm I'm thinking correctly. Thanks again.

Yes, it does come with its own power transformer and cord for power it. I don't remember, but I don't think it came with a 120V USA power cord end plug. I think just loose wires at the end as you will need to add a cord plug because this kit does come from the UK.

#2946 5 months ago
Quoted from gac:

Thanks again Mike for your explanations and information. Having a regular three pronged plug that can go into the plug that you mention as a power source for a soldering iron (how true is that!) is what I want. A while back I had added that outlet in my TAF to have power only when the game switch is turned on (my TAF is a reimport so there was no outlet there originally). Honestly don't remember how I did it as I'm not electrically inclined but it was done.

I don't think that you really want to tap in the service outlet. you do realize that the outlet is "live" even when the machine isn't turned on, correct? the way mike has tapped in further down stream, the connection is only live when the game is turned on.

#2947 5 months ago
Quoted from gac:

Thanks again Mike for your explanations and information. Having a regular three pronged plug that can go into the plug that you mention as a power source for a soldering iron (how true is that!) is what I want. A while back I had added that outlet in my TAF to have power only when the game switch is turned on (my TAF is a reimport so there was no outlet there originally). Honestly don't remember how I did it as I'm not electrically inclined but it was done.

Another option to have the mods turn on with the game, without putting strain on the machine's power supply, and without tapping in to the machine's transformer, is to use a controlled power strip.

The power strip would plug into the wall, the machine would plug into the red outlet, and anything plugged into the black outlets would power on when the machine is powered on. So, the transformer that comes with the Expander board could be plugged into the black outlet. Sounds like you would still need to put the appropriate 3-prong plug on the expander board.

BTW, the other three "blank" outlets on that strip are always on, so you could still plug other things in without having them turn on with the machine.
Controlled Power Strip (resized).jpg

#2948 5 months ago

Hey folks need your skilled eyes. This is the connector for the ramp marquee lights which is power and ground... I have a few lights out and I want to plug in some 5v so I can replace the bulbs not on the game as this ramp is a pain. Cheers

A19F753C-6542-40C4-9751-DE22463FDF14 (resized).jpeg
#2949 5 months ago
Quoted from j_m_:

I don't think that you really want to tap in the service outlet. you do realize that the outlet is "live" even when the machine isn't turned on, correct? the way mike has tapped in further down stream, the connection is only live when the game is turned on.

The outlet on mine is not live until the game is powered on. It was rewired or "jumpered" for this reason. I have a power strip plugged into the outlet and it powers a couple mods. The power strip does not have power until the game is switched on.

#2950 5 months ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Yes, it does come with its own power transformer and cord for power it. I don't remember, but I don't think it came with a 120V USA power cord end plug. I think just loose wires at the end as you will need to add a cord plug because this kit does come from the UK.

Can the power cord that attaches to the power transformer be detached? In other words, can the power cord provided (with the loose wires) be unplugged from the transformer? If so, couldn't a regular cord with a normal three prong plug (like a computer power cord) be inserted into the tranformer and the three pronged plug be plugged into the service outlet?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 149.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Sparky Pinball
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
There are 3220 posts in this topic. You are on page 59 of 65.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside