I'm selling my Creature locally and still have an uninstalled Mike D Creature hologram mod, so it's up for sale if anyone is interested. I know there is a more DIY version out there and another one that's been promised for a few years that may be actually finally happening, but this is the one that is trusted and highly sought after: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-mike-d-creature-hologram-mod-version-20#post-5239270

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I would have given you a thumbs up, but $1K? I can't believe that you're seriously going to attempt to gouge someone for over 100% more than you originally paid for it

The last one sold for like 1.2K about 7 months ago, I think if I priced it any cheaper, someone would have just flipped it. I had 3 local people lined up immediately for it and the first one bought it this morning with no price haggling, so the price must have been about right for today's market. I never know the right way to do stuff like this, I've definitely sold stuff cheap locally many times only to see the buyer selling it for twice what they paid me less than a year later. So now I price things at what I think the market price currently is and let people bargain me down if they think it's too high.

The market dictates the price, sold fast enough it probably could have went for more.

You can’t be blamed for selling something at market rate regardless of what you paid.

I saw it posted last night and knew it would go fast.
Still looking for a buyer for my NIB tail light speaker panel mod and a brand new speaker panel plastic to. Pm me.

Is it by design for the ball to hit the right sling after returning down from the pops?

Seems like quite a few machines do, and a nudge is needed as its rolling down. But, have also seen it avoid the sling. I like the challenge, but seems like it would also be better not hitting the sling snd allowing a nice catch.

I don’t think it was by design. Ball should miss sling and go to flipper. I found this on mine, table wasn’t level.

Looks like my rail guide is bent in towards and a direct aim for the slings. Probably happens a lot on this title after age. I bent it a little in and seemed to now just hit the lower portion of the slings and sometimes straight to flipper. Pin is pretty level. I will prob need to take it out to get it bent appropriately.

I just received my mirrored backglass today and wow! it's simply beautiful

Pictures please!

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I still need to pick up all of the plastic framing rails to put it in my machine. I'll do that next week when I'm @ expo

That new mirrored backglass looks amazing!

(It also looks startling and shocking.)

Anyone have an extra laying around?

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-CFTBL31-1420-20018-DLX

Joined the club yesterday

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Good on you. One game I really miss from the lineup. Had no idea how great it was at the time

If anyone is replacing their translite with the new backglass and looking to off load the translite, I'm on the hunt for an original translite in excellent condition. Please let me know

Thanks
Brett

Here's an update for you that's long overdue. I ran into some problems I didn't realize I had. I found some cut wires that need to be repaired. The right sling was worn so badly it flopped to one side...had to order some parts to rebuild it. One flipper return spring was missing. I also didn't realize the longest metal hex spacer had the threads broke off. Couldn't find the part anywhere, the length is 5.75". I ended up buying 4.5" and 1.25" spacers from Marco and screwing them together. I also bought a post kit but didn't realize almost all the posts were orange, so I ordered more posts including clear, teal and purple. These, along with my Titan rings, will be color matched to the playfield. I also need to decide how I'm going to wire the pop bumper lights...most likely I'll wire them to the lightning inserts board.

Other purchases: an extra power supply to drive mods and green PopBlast LED wedge lights to go in each pop bumper.

I don't think the playfield will have chipping or pooling. When you look at the sling posts, they don't have art underneath them, just like the original, which seems like it might have been the problem on Wonka and Stern JP. However, something strange is going on. I had cleaned and was re-installing one of the ball guides when I dropped it on the playfield. I cursed like a sailor at the cut it made in the clear. Fortunately the spot where it hit will be under the apron so it won't be seen, but I was still disappointed in myself.

This is where things get weird.

The next weekend I was doing more work and instinctively started running my fingers over the area where the clear had been cut, because of my OCD. I couldn't find it. I felt all over the area where I had dropped the guide but couldn't feel the cut anywhere. The playfield seems to have "healed" itself. How the hell is that possible? I'm going to check again tomorrow to see if I'm losing my mind.

Next items to work on:

- Repair right sling
- Wire pop bumper lights
- Install posts

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I am mounting my creature.
Where should these two hex post be?

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This is a wild guess, but I’m thinking those are at the bowl. Here’s a pic from my rebuild several years back....

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Thanks. But it wasnt there.
And it dont seems like I am missing them anywhere now, maybe mixed them up with some other game.

Now to the bowl. Ill bet It has been up for disscusion before here.
How to make it go more loops and register on switch?

Pleas give me some advice!
Now i have at best 2 regestred loops.

Get the reed switch!

The following post may help you out.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cftbl-fans-and-members-welcome/page/53#post-5221056

Gord

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Thanks!
I have now been reading about reed switches.
Proablibly not so hard to makr one.
But what i would like to know is what type sensitivity is best. It is mesaured in AT.

No need, other member making them!
Check the RFM thread

I found some really great info there.
This should not be so hard to do.
Reed switch itself cost about 1$ and a diod and a magneti think about same.
and then 3d print some type of Casing.
I know there are ready ones to buy.
But i like do it my self for much less cost.

As in many posts, the reed switch will get the job done .... but I’m a purist who thinks this is only cheating yourself. I adjust the stock switch to limit friction, and clean/wax the bowl good. Then it’s all technique during your game ... two or three shots to the bowl along with some well-timed nudging. With the reed switch it’s one shot to the bowl and you max it out ... poof, challenge over. Boo.

Thats True.
I actually changed the switch to a new one.
And tried some different numbers of washers and got it to do 3 loops.
And thats just perfect.
I really dont want to do 8 loops. Thats not how it was made to do.
And in competion that would be not good.

I made a reed switch, then fixed mine by leveling the bowl with washers. 3-4 switch hits is what I get now. I never installed the reed switch.

Ah yes, forgot to mention leveling to get it just right. That’s about all the advantage I want ... not going to peruse the reed switch, ever.

I don’t have reed switch either but after I re-adjust the ramp, the bowl and the switch I have 4 to 5 loops now. The downside is it took me more than one hour to get it done. If it could have 7 to 8 loops after a reed switch installed. It will make the multi balls easier. This may be a good thing for casual player.

I use one of the black CFTBL keychain promos.

actually was thinking of doing something there, it does need it, but haven't put too much thought into it

Just ordered cprs mirrored backglass can’t wait to get it!

I have to , super upgrade for Creech.

I finally ordered the trim for my mirrored backglass. I'm hoping that it doesn't suffer from the same issues that chris hutchins ran into with the radical one that CPR did (but I'll bet it does
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/107#post-5282466

maybe I should have ordered the 3/16" channels instead of the 1/8" channels from pinball life (although, I do not see a 3/16" option for the lift channel
https://www.pinballlife.com/316-wide-backglass-side-and-top-trim-various-lengths.html

No. I have replaced several translites (about 9) with the new CPR Backglasses and have found that the best way to fit the plastic channels is to slightly "warm" the plastic channel with a heat gun ( or hair dryer ) "Slightly" just enough to make it a little pliable and you can tap it right on. Don't warm the entire plastic all at once, warm it as you tap it on....Takes about 4 minutes to do the entire glass.....

Can someone post a video of the mirrored backglass? It is hard to appreciate from a static image.

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/cftbl-glass/

I have the ones for MM and AFM, they are way to dark, even when lit.
Others have posted the same thing.
I will not be buying any more.

Thanks for the info. I will definitely wait until I see one in person.

Yep. Same with TZ. They look pretty nice but they are so dark you have to go nuts re-LEDing your backbox with super brights

Here's a side by side comparison I did for a Pinside member: new Mirco playfield on the left, old playfield on the right. The new Mirco is beautiful...the colors are deeper, richer, and really pop, especially the hot pink and the teal around the bumpers.

However, the clear looks like it may not hold up. The post had been in for 2 weeks before I decided to change the post colors. The last photo shows how the star post has sunk down into the clear. This may explain how my playfield mysteriously "fixed itself" in my previous post...it looks like the clear may be soft. The old playfield with 84,000+ plays on it has cut into the clear and down to the wood on the side opposite of where the ball hits the post. That's to be expected on a game with that many plays, and the other side of the playfield under the post looks great. What I don't like is that the post has cut into the clear on a new playfield that hasn't even been played yet.

I've placed some nylon washers under a few posts but I'm nervous that this will just push damage to the clear farther out into the playfield. I'm going to watch this closely...
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latest news - I have been quitely developing and now completed the proto Snackbar Mod v4, which turned out nicely with the new magnetic lockdown feature and improved top lighting. 8 of the 12 being made have already been allocated and I will start a dedicated thread soon

the lighting, decal and outer look is 98% the same except no lock in screw on the front anymore and the other photo shows the lighting feature "on" now lighting up the top nicely. The mod is held down with magnets and makes for an easy process to remove to service / clean etc

I also now finally have my website up and running which has a heap of creature parts / mods as well as many other things and will be posting the new manual there soon in the resource section.

https://swinks.com.au/

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thanks, and this is the last refinement - no v5 as v4 will eb the last, and it was a seed J_M_ planted at the start of v3 about the visible screw on the front just took me a while to come up with an idea. That and I had decided to stop v3 due to increasing costs - and so with some different apporaches I was able to save some costs and still keep the mod close to v3 prices and hopefully a few dollars less - still finalising this.

As for the top lighting upgrade anyone that upgraded their Snackbar Mod v1 & v2 with the sign addition as well as v3 owners could spend $10 and improve the top lighting effect just with some Comet Pinball parts.

This mod looks fantastic I have to have one.