Creature from the Black Lagoon
Bally, 1992Quick question- On my creature the left shot has a ramp flap the raises and lowers. In switch test mode the ramp works and moves up and down. But during gameplay the ramp is always in the down position when it should be up. What do you guys think is going on here?
Quoted from pacman11:Quick question- On my creature the left shot has a ramp flap the raises and lowers. In switch test mode the ramp works and moves up and down. But during gameplay the ramp is always in the down position when it should be up. What do you guys think is going on here?
Huh. It should only come down in multiball, so you can shoot to the whirlpool ramp for creature letters.
Make sure your metal up/down ramp isn’t rubbing against the plastic ramp underneath it. It may require just a gentle tweak to be centered.
Does someone have any spare plastics? I need a couple pieces, but not a whole set
I need the snack bar, the plastic to the right of the right ramp under the standup sign, and the playground with the swing set. Thanks!
Quoted from pacman11:Quick question- On my creature the left shot has a ramp flap the raises and lowers. In switch test mode the ramp works and moves up and down. But during gameplay the ramp is always in the down position when it should be up. What do you guys think is going on here?
Your small locking coil may not be working.
Quoted from pacman11:Quick question- On my creature the left shot has a ramp flap the raises and lowers. In switch test mode the ramp works and moves up and down. But during gameplay the ramp is always in the down position when it should be up. What do you guys think is going on here?
have you down any work recently on the switches / wiring - could be as simple as the wiring of the switch or linked cabling is reversed
Quoted from swinks:have you down any work recently on the switches / wiring - could be as simple as the wiring of the switch or linked cabling is reversed
I just picked up this game so I have no idea what’s been done to it. When I shop it out I will tear into this issue since it’s located in a weird spot under some ramps. I’ll check the wires on it too, thanks for the ideas. In switch test mode the ramp will lift up and down but during gameplay ramp doesn’t move at all.
Quoted from pacman11:I just picked up this game so I have no idea what’s been done to it. When I shop it out I will tear into this issue since it’s located in a weird spot under some ramps. I’ll check the wires on it too, thanks for the ideas. In switch test mode the ramp will lift up and down but during gameplay ramp doesn’t move at all.
Maybe do one more test before shopping out, activate FILM and drop then ball into either the left subway or the slide shot to activate multiball which activates the up / down ramp. If the ramp lifts up and blocks access to the whirlpool ramp this would then confirm that the wires are opposite somewhere.
Quoted from pacman11:I just picked up this game so I have no idea what’s been done to it. When I shop it out I will tear into this issue since it’s located in a weird spot under some ramps. I’ll check the wires on it too, thanks for the ideas. In switch test mode the ramp will lift up and down but during gameplay ramp doesn’t move at all.
You may want to fix the problem before shopping it out so you know all is working before tearing it down.
Quoted from drummermike:My Creature has a new problem today. Both the round multiball film lights are on during startup. They stay on during the game. The metal ramp is also in the lowered position. I could not see any wires off under the playfield. All the switches are good. I manually set the ramp up and started multiball. The ramp will not go down and the lights are always on. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
Put in new RD power board. All is good now. Someone did a sketchy repair on the back of the original board.
Upon further inspection it appears that the ramp is activated in the up position but doesn’t go up very high. During test mode I noticed the ramp raises and lowers but only raises maybe a 1/16inch. Is there a way to adjust this ramp? Maybe if someone had a picture of this area from top and bottom of playfield I might notice something.
Quoted from pacman11:Upon further inspection it appears that the ramp is activated in the up position but doesn’t go up very high. During test mode I noticed the ramp raises and lowers but only raises maybe a 1/16inch. Is there a way to adjust this ramp? Maybe if someone had a picture of this area from top and bottom of playfield I might notice something.
When I put new ramps in my CFTBL the ramp was hitting the back of the ramp. I had to trim some plastic off to clear the diverter.
Quoted from Pinash:Does someone have any spare plastics? I need a couple pieces, but not a whole set
I need the snack bar, the plastic to the right of the right ramp under the standup sign, and the playground with the swing set. Thanks!
I might have these including a clear protector for the snack bar plastic. I'll check and PM you later today.
Quoted from pacman11:Upon further inspection it appears that the ramp is activated in the up position but doesn’t go up very high. During test mode I noticed the ramp raises and lowers but only raises maybe a 1/16inch. Is there a way to adjust this ramp? Maybe if someone had a picture of this area from top and bottom of playfield I might notice something.
Can you manually move the ramp up and down? Does it move freely? Sounds like it is catching on something or the maybe you have a issue with the coil/sleeve/plunger
Does anyone have a pic of backbox connectors j106 and j107 on the power driver board? I'm trying to troubleshoot some flasher/motor issues.
Edit:Does anyone know where the solid red wire off mirror driver board (J1-1) physically connects to? I know it comes from j107-5, but where in the pf flasher circuit/chain does the wire specifically connect to?
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Quoted from drummermike:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks! You are helping me narrow down my mirror motor issue.
Can someone confirm or deny my J106 harness is defficient? The way it's wired it sends 50v over the 20v line straight to the triac driver board 
Don't ask me how I know
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Quoted from Manny65:Can you manually move the ramp up and down? Does it move freely? Sounds like it is catching on something or the maybe you have a issue with the coil/sleeve/plunger
I haven’t tried manually moving it. The ramp diverter is as high as it can go and it just doesn’t create enough space between the ramp and diverter. Looks like the ramp is cracked and was glued at some point. I’ll probably just replace it and see if that makes a difference.
Quoted from drummermike:I am looking for a C-12709 three light circuit board for my CFTBL. I found one in Australia. Anything closer?
Soldered the loose pin on the board. Works now!
I read about someone using a filter to make a blue holo green again, but never saw any details so I thought I would share what I just did since it actually came out pretty good. And it cost me less than $3. First I picked up a small sheet of yellow acetate from the art supply store and cut it up into 3.75” x 3.75” squares. I then cut .5” x .5” notches out of the corners so I could fold the edges. I ended up using only 3 layers but you may need more or less depending how bad your hologram is. But I did find out the more layers you use, the less bright the holo is. After getting my layers stacked up I used 1” strips of paper, folded in half, and fastened them to the film edges with transparent tape. Similar to a book binding. Once all edges were secure I simply slid the film setup into the light bulb tunnel and that was it. Took me less than an hour and less than $3.
05D2AEB2-13C4-499A-A224-D5222ADEE619 (resized).jpegDBE08D7E-CB75-4CC3-89AB-DF88A4A9C502 (resized).jpegE51079B0-E2A4-4EA3-A72D-D9F743E99A18 (resized).jpeg2EBF0AB0-0C9B-427D-924A-C74FC0993AEA (resized).jpegA23B0794-3056-4DC3-BD3C-EDA797DF1612 (resized).jpeg92E57499-B6E2-4889-ABCC-0EB33FD643DD (resized).jpegQuoted from JayDee:I read about someone using a filter to make a blue holo green again, but never saw any details so I thought I would share what I just did since it actually came out pretty good. And it cost me less than $3. First I picked up a small sheet of yellow acetate from the art supply store and cut it up into 3.75” x 3.75” squares. I then cut .5” x .5” notches out of the corners so I could fold the edges. I ended up using only 3 layers but you may need more or less depending how bad your hologram is. But I did find out the more layers you use, the less bright the holo is. After getting my layers stacked up I used 1” strips of paper, folded in half, and fastened them to the film edges with transparent tape. Similar to a book binding. Once all edges were secure I simply slid the film setup into the light bulb tunnel and that was it. Took me less than an hour and less than $3.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Great idea and work. I also swapped the original bulb with a 12v led spotlight 50w. Enough light now!
Quoted from PeterG:Great idea and work. I also swapped the original bulb with a 12v led spotlight 50w. Enough light now!
Mines a led bulb also
Quoted from advans13:Looks good. What bulb did you buy? Mine is missing and havent tackled it yet.
It’s been so long but I think I got the 6000K for a whiter light. I honestly can’t remember
A67B8558-824D-4EF4-BD1A-E7129F212FA8 (resized).jpegQuoted from advans13:today i made a shrine to my dead hologram in the yard.
i will even take a blue one.[quoted image]
I got a decent hologram im not using bud. Yours 100 shipped
Quoted from Robertstone0407:I got a decent hologram im not using bud. Yours 100 shipped
Oh man...dibs if he doesn’t want it!
Quoted from Pinash:Thanks! You are helping me narrow down my mirror motor issue.
Can someone confirm or deny my J106 harness is defficient? The way it's wired it sends 50v over the 20v line straight to the triac driver board Don't ask me how I know
[quoted image]
Looks off. Here is a photo of mine.
CFTBL.JPGQuoted from rygar:Another angle ..[quoted image]
Thanks! That helped me sort it out.
Your SD card is most likely corrupted. A thread was started about this issue recently, https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cftbl-miked-help
Quoted from Pahuffman:Ugh I want to join this club! For some reason these never come up for sale in the South.
I've only ever seen just one in person.
Depends on how far you're willing to drive. Had to go to Bossier City for mine - 8 hours each way.
Fixed issue- from the bottom of the playfield where the solenoid is there are two screws holding the bracket to raise and lower ramp and mine was off. It can come loose and the bracket can come off. Put bracket back in place and tighten the screws down. Easy fix!
Alright I’ve had sometime to look at my Creature. For some reason the ramp doesn’t go all the way up. The lever doesn’t pull all the way forward to push the ramp up all the way. I manually pushed it forward and it clears the bottom ramp... The switch works and the solenoid works. Any thoughts? Some have a picture of this area?
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Quoted from pacman11:Fixed issue- from the bottom of the playfield where the solenoid is there are two screws holding the bracket to raise and lower ramp and mine was off. It can come loose and the bracket can come off. Put bracket back in place and tighten the screws down. Easy fix!
Alright I’ve had sometime to look at my Creature. For some reason the ramp doesn’t go all the way up. The lever doesn’t pull all the way forward to push the ramp up all the way. I manually pushed it forward and it clears the bottom ramp... The switch works and the solenoid works. Any thoughts? Some have a picture of this area?
[quoted image][quoted image]
What if you try moving the plunger manually - does it move easily and can you do the full range of movement? Could be the sleeve needs replacing or the plunger is burred from the coil stop and causing resistance; alternately if there is free movement of the plunger but it stops before reaching the coil stop then the linkages could be worn or the mech needs a small realignment
Quoted from Manny65:What if you try moving the plunger manually - does it move easily and can you do the full range of movement? Could be the sleeve needs replacing or the plunger is burred from the coil stop and causing resistance; alternately if there is free movement of the plunger but it stops before reaching the coil stop then the linkages could be worn or the mech needs a small realignment
Thanks but I fixed it the bracket screws came loose, just needed to tighten them down.
Quoted from fiberdude120:Your lights are stuck on correct? That will be a board issue in my past experience.
Wanted to post the resolve to my issue.
Row 1 of the light matrix was stuck on. P in paid, F in film all the way through free pass (whole row) etc.
I checked every wire and lamp socket to make sure they weren’t touching anything or grounded on anything. But the tab of the transistor did have continuity to ground. After searching and testing I decided to pull and replace q90 (transistor for row 1). Turned the machine on and same result. Every thing was stuck on for the row still.
Decided to look under the pf again for the fifth time and noticed the ball save lamp had an extra wire attached to it. There was an orange wire attached to the two red-brown wires. After looking it appeared to be the extra ground loop wire for the right eos flipper switch.
As soon as i removed it the problem was gone. The things you find/fix when getting a used game. 
Quoted from rygar:Another angle ..[quoted image]
Upon my above fix i somehow dislodged this wire when i removed the driver board. Thanks for conveniently posting that image!
What are you guys using for freeplay/rule cards? I've found a few, but the design doesn't really match the machine's.
Wanted to share some pics of my Creature which we powder coated, added tons of mods, sideblade art, small tv showing drive in clips, color screen and YES A FULL SIZED Creature. Its all part of our haunted house The Darkness.
Come visit!
IMG_4829 (resized).jpgIMG_4913 (resized).jpgIMG_4914 (resized).jpgIMG_4915 (resized).jpgIMG_4916 (resized).jpgIMG_4917 (resized).jpgQuoted from epthegeek:Can anybody confirm if there should be a plastic/rubber cover on the out-hole kicker and/or trough eject? My creature eats balls way too fast and I'm not sure what to blame for the damage.
[quoted image]
These are like 6-8 months old with light home use.
I’ve never seen any rubber on those style troughs.
Maybe just cheap pinballs?
Quoted from epthegeek:Can anybody confirm if there should be a plastic/rubber cover on the out-hole kicker and/or trough eject? My creature eats balls way too fast and I'm not sure what to blame for the damage.
[quoted image]
These are like 6-8 months old with light home use.
I would check the snackbar-scoop, perhaps it has a sharp edge on or in it which messes up your balls 
Guys, working on CFTBL with missing chase light controller and chase light flexible PCB.
I have copied the controller, but this light board is missing:
Is there any repro or other source?
Thanks!
IMG-65aa67da232533c4c5c958a3e7ae3abe-V (resized).jpgIMG-d7214af4006300c6f757d3a48ca57c18-V (resized).jpgWanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
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