(Topic ID: 283621)

Centigrade 37 Colors

By GPS

3 years ago


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  • 49 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by GPS
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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#1 3 years ago

Hello All
Wondering if there is anyone out there that may have repainted their cab and could share what colors they used. The yellow is pretty easy but the maroon ish color I’m not sure about. Cab I have seems to be fairly unfaded on one side and it appears to be Maroon. Just not sure if that is “correct”. The other side is so faded you can hardly tell it is even in the red family

Thanks so much for the input

George

#2 3 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

Hello All
Wondering if there is anyone out there that may have repainted their cab and could share what colors they used. The yellow is pretty easy but the maroon ish color I’m not sure about. Cab I have seems to be fairly unfaded on one side and it appears to be Maroon. Just not sure if that is “correct”. The other side is so faded you can hardly tell it is even in the red family
Thanks so much for the input
George

Here you go:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-centigrade-37-restoration
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-wedgehead-cabinet-paint-color

#3 3 years ago

A fricking mazing!!! Thank you big time. Reading thoroughly. Never even heard of Montana brand spray paint!!! THANK YOU

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

A fricking mazing!!! Thank you big time. Reading thoroughly. Never even heard of Montana brand spray paint!!! THANK YOU

Sure thing. They are excellent paint but a word of advice if you use them-go lightly. They are heavy pigment, so you don't need many coats as it quickly builds and you will need to sand it down to get rid of the edges. I also should have used something thinner for the spatter as the enamel was slightly raised. In later cabinets I found black lacquer works much better for spatter.

#5 3 years ago

Again, thank you very much. Your post is exceedingly helpful. What black enamel, specifically, would you recommend for the spatter

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

Again, thank you very much. Your post is exceedingly helpful. What black enamel, specifically, would you recommend for the spatter

Quoted from GPS:

Again, thank you very much. Your post is exceedingly helpful. What black enamel, specifically, would you recommend for the spatter

I'm assuming you meant which brand of black lacquer, since I noted above I stopped using the enamel. As for the brand, I'll take a look in the garage tomorrow and see what it was. I think I still have some even though it was probably only a 4 oz can.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from Topcard:

I'm assuming you meant which brand of black lacquer, since I noted above I stopped using the enamel. As for the brand, I'll take a look in the garage tomorrow and see what it was. I think I still have some even though it was probably only a 4 oz can.

Yes sir and thank you

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

Yes sir and thank you

Time and memory is a funny thing. I swear it was a small can of liquid (and maybe it was once) but the last one I did I used Lacquer from a spray can and sprayed it into a container. I must not have been able to find a small can of just liquid. Photo is below.

IMG_8615 (resized).jpgIMG_8615 (resized).jpg
#9 3 years ago

Thank you again!!

#10 3 years ago

I'm contemplating restoring my faded C37 cabinet as well. As this will be my first time using stencils, I gave Jeff at Pinball Pimps a call for some helpful pointers. First, I can't say how appreciative I was of all the time he took giving me lots of helpful hints that he as learned over the years.

One thing that he sort of stressed was the use of either Rustoleum or Krylon paints. He suggested using only one coat and removing the stencil before the paint dried. Has anyone done a C37 stencil job using either of these two paints for both the base coat and the color layers? If so, what colors did you use for the color layers?

topcard: You mentioned in your very informative thread that you used multiple coats of the Montana brand and ended up with some raised paint edges. Do you think you could have gotten by with one coat and pulled the stencil before the paint dried?

#11 3 years ago

The three color are as follows

Montana Kickin Yellow
Montana Good Times
Rustoleum Blossom White fir the cab

Black lacquer fir the black spots. Filled with a tooth brush.

Yes. Top card suggested after he ended up with edges with the Montana to just use a light coat as long as it is fully covered. This should take care of the “edges” issue

#12 3 years ago

The process has begun. Completed sanding the back box today (exterior) and am doing some touch up with wood repair gel. Have already ordered the stencils from pinball pimp. Have a new gottlieb certificate courtesy of Inkochnito (thank you kindly Peter! A number of new things from Steve at PBT ( legs, switches misc) , paint is on the way from Amazon as I could not source locally (Montana) Just pulled the board out of the bottom of the cabinet this eve. Rails are off and straightened just need to sand and polish. It will be a while yet but I am trying to get a lot of this done while I will be on break during the next couple weeks. This is the first cabinet repaint I am attempting but with the plethora of excellent qualified help like Topcard and others, this process is not nearly as daunting. Without this kind of guidance, it would be very daunting so a big thanks to all!!
Need to do some testing with the speckle technique. Going to try and get the back box base coat on in the next couple days and then try the spatter effect. If that goes well, stencils are next. Game is in nice shape but it needs a fair amount of tlc. Best thing is the back glass and play field are good. Going through things now and will almost certainly need EddiePi help to get it fully dialed in. Keep me on your radar Ed.

Finding wrong fuses, corrosion etc but it is cleaning up. Nothing out of the ordinary given age of game but the game has never been gone through. Previous owner said he did some things but I am not sure what those were?

Do not plan to paint the insides of the cabinet or bb as they look pretty good. Still trying to locate a nice door. Stay tuned and thank you to all for making it possible for a newb like me to do this

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

The three color are as follows
Montana Kickin Yellow
Montana Good Times
Rustoleum Blossom White fir the cab
Black lacquer fir the black spots. Filled with a tooth brush.
Yes. Top card suggested after he ended up with edges with the Montana to just use a light coat as long as it is fully covered. This should take care of the “edges” issue

Just a couple of comments; If I had to do it again, I would not use Blossom White, as I now think it looks a little too white. It may be how they looked when they were brand new, but to me it stands out too much amongst my other wedge heads. I would probably go back to Heirloom white or something along those lines, but it is all personal preference.

As for the yellow, it's a little tricky as yellow doesn't cover as well as some colors, but with the Montana paint, I think you could do a couple of light passes and pull the stencil. Start somewhere small like the front of the cabinet, so if you screw it up, it's a smaller area to fix. You can also practice on white poster board or something similar before hitting the cabinet. Remember, they were pretty light coats coming out of the factory. Go slow and take your time, and watch the Pimp's video a few times. Conceptually it is simple, but it is tricky to do correctly. Good luck. Happy to answer any questions along the way.

#14 3 years ago
#15 3 years ago

Added thumbs up emoji but it didn’t work so here’s a thumbs up!!

#16 3 years ago

Thank you for your continued direction Topcard ! I chose to go with the blossom white as per your initial suggestion. I will be ok with the color diffeeential. I only have one other wedge head at the moment and that is Atlantis. They will sit next to each other but I have been thinking about redoing the cab on it and if I do I’ll just use the blossom white. It will be good. Just sprayed the first coat in the cab tonight. I noticed some things I want to dial in a bit better so now I have to wait 48 hours to paint any more. Hate that about rustoleum. Much prefer krylon.

Just taking my time. Want to get the back box down and then it moved out so I can work on the cab. Hate painting inside but it’s winter in Ohio!

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

Thank you for your continued direction topcard ! I chose to go with the blossom white as per your initial suggestion. I will be ok with the color diffeeential. I only have one other wedge head at the moment and that is Atlantis. They will sit next to each other but I have been thinking about redoing the cab on it and if I do I’ll just use the blossom white. It will be good. Just sprayed the first coat in the cab tonight. I noticed some things I want to dial in a bit better so now I have to wait 48 hours to paint any more. Hate that about rustoleum. Much prefer krylon.
Just taking my time. Want to get the back box down and then it moved out so I can work on the cab. Hate painting inside but it’s winter in Ohio!

Take plenty of pictures. I love a good restoration thread.

#18 3 years ago
Quoted from Topcard:

Take plenty of pictures. I love a good restoration thread.

Likewise. I was thinking about stenciling my C37 cabinet as well but was a bit intimidated as this would be my first repaint project. Threads like these are great for building confidence.

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

The three color are as follows
Montana Kickin Yellow
Montana Good Times
Rustoleum Blossom White fir the cab
Black lacquer fir the black spots. Filled with a tooth brush.
Yes. Top card suggested after he ended up with edges with the Montana to just use a light coat as long as it is fully covered. This should take care of the “edges” issue

Hey GPS,

I just noticed on this post that you chose Montana Good Tines, but if you read the C37 restoration thread I sent you, you will see that I later determined that that color wasn't a good enough match and went with the Montana Pink Panther. See below from the other thread.

"So now it was time to do the magenta. Everything went well until I pulled back the stencil and really looked at the color. What looked like a great match on my sample sheets clearly did not match the original color that I had left underneath the coin door. And this point I had to decide if I should just live with the color or try a different one. I was uncertain if I could safely paint over the color without making a total mess of it. I contacted the Pinball Pimp and he was willing to sell me just the one stencil I needed. So I then ordered Montana pink panther, a color that I had seen on another thread, and upon testing I decided that was the color to go with. It was tricky to line up the new stencil perfectly over the old color. In fact to make it work I had to cut up stencil into pieces to line it up perfectly. Fortunately when it was all done and came out great. A much better match. I would recommend to anyone doing a centigrade 37 to use Montana kicking yellow and Montana pink panther. I know the yellow has a more mustard shade on the older machines, but looking under the coin door one can see that the yellow is much brighter as is the pink. On mine I inadvertently sanded it so the colors in the picture don't give a true sense of how bright they really were."

#20 3 years ago

Hello @topcard

Thank you fir the message. I thought that I had already bought the paint and since I am still always from doing the colors, and have not received the stencils yet from Pinball Pimp, was not thinking about it. Then I look on Amazon and there is no order fir the paint. I am almost sure I ordered it. Oh well, the only place that MIGHT have it by me is Dick Blick art materials. I’ll give them a call tomorrow and see if they do though I’m not holding my breath. Reminds me to contact pinball pimp and check on my stencils. Man is the delivery chain backed up. Going to need to make some changes going forward for sure. Thank you again for all the kind help and direction

G

#21 3 years ago

Got the paints today fir the stenciling! Kicking yellow and pink panther! Thank you again Topcard !!

Still working on the back box getting the base coat down. Once done with that I’ll practice with the flicking of black with a tooth brush and see how that works for me. At that point I will be ready to do the back box colors. I can see how the blossom white is a brighter white but I’m ok with that. It will be close enough to not destroy the value of the game once complete.

This is a project and that is fine! Like working on these things and Beijing them back from a rough condition. Just completed sanding out and polishing the rest of the stainless. Hate when I open a game and the lockdown assembly is a mess! Not no more!

Merry Christmas

#22 3 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

Got the paints today fir the stenciling! Kicking yellow and pink panther! Thank you again topcard !!
Still working on the back box getting the base coat down. Once done with that I’ll practice with the flicking of black with a tooth brush and see how that works for me. At that point I will be ready to do the back box colors. I can see how the blossom white is a brighter white but I’m ok with that. It will be close enough to not destroy the value of the game once complete.
This is a project and that is fine! Like working on these things and Beijing them back from a rough condition. Just completed sanding out and polishing the rest of the stainless. Hate when I open a game and the lockdown assembly is a mess! Not no more!
Merry Christmas

Glad you were able to locate the paints. I didn't use tooth brush but more of a dual brush with plastic bristles on one side and brass bristles on the other. There's a picture on the other thread. That being said, a stiff tooth brush would probably work just as well. Take lots of pictures along the way. It's very helpful when you do another game months from now, because you just forget a ton of stuff. Merry Christmas!

#23 3 years ago

I used pink panther and Easter yellow (kicking yellow was out of stock) Easter yellow is a perfect match for the yellow on the backglass but I'd prefer kicking yellow.
I used rustoleum heirloom white for an old school look.

#24 3 years ago

Are you gonna clear it after stencils?
I use Blossem White for cabinets and 3 coats of Varathane Polyurethane with HVLP spray gun
The sheet metal I'm holding is Blossem White without clear..... together with the cleared cabinets.
Enjoy your project! Merry Christmas!
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#25 3 years ago

Hello Theo_Ioannis

I want to clear the cabinet but do not have the tools for hvlp or any experience spraying. Hence I would probably rattle can it or brush it if that is the preferred way save fir hvlp spraying. What say you?

I fricked up the top of the back box this eve while spraying the base. Don’t think I shook the can enough and got a very ugly result on the top. Oh well. Wait 48 hours and sand it and re-spray. Want this right.

It’s a process for sure!!

#26 3 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

I want to clear the cabinet but do not have the tools for hvlp or any experience spraying.


Maybe better leave it without clear.

With a HVLP gun. It gives an EVEN sheen. From a spray can, it will look blotchy and spotty and uneven......and maybe more yellowish?

It's like spraying the kitchen cabinets......very easy and flawless!
Water-based Varathane Polyurethane is crystal clear? bullshit, I see a very very very little bit yellowish.... which is fine with me.
My HVLP is cheap one from Harbour Freight.....good enough for me and looks great!

#27 3 years ago
Quoted from Theo_Ioannis:

Are you gonna clear it after stencils?
I use Blossem White for cabinets and 3 coats of Varathane Polyurethane with HVLP spray gun
The sheet metal I'm holding is Blossem White without clear..... together with the cleared cabinets.
Enjoy your project! Merry Christmas!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

That's interesting. I'm curious to know how long it's been since the first one you did? Wondering if it becomes too yellow over time?

#28 3 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

Hello theo_ioannis
I want to clear the cabinet but do not have the tools for hvlp or any experience spraying. Hence I would probably rattle can it or brush it if that is the preferred way save fir hvlp spraying. What say you?
I fricked up the top of the back box this eve while spraying the base. Don’t think I shook the can enough and got a very ugly result on the top. Oh well. Wait 48 hours and sand it and re-spray. Want this right.
It’s a process for sure!!

It's funny, when you read a restoration thread it all seems so simple, but the reality can be quite different. Always use a tack cloth between coats and always test spray on cardboard or something before hitting the cabinet. I learned that the hard way after having a similar experience to yours.

#29 3 years ago
Quoted from kimbleseven:

I used pink panther and Easter yellow (kicking yellow was out of stock) Easter yellow is a perfect match for the yellow on the backglass but I'd prefer kicking yellow.
I used rustoleum heirloom white for an old school look.

Would love to see a couple pics if you have them handy.

#30 3 years ago

I have had good results with varethane on cabinets.
You do not have to spray it. If you brush in on in SUPER thin coats you cannot tell it is brushed on. Usually i use it for 2 reasons:
1) The spray bomb colors i use are different sheens. To make them uniform i clear them all with varethane satin or semi.
2) it allows me to sand down the stencil ridges and clear.

I have held onto most of my games for 5 to 13 years and have not noticed yellowing.
Before 2PAC i cleared playfields with varethane. Kept Trident for 10 years with a varethane playfield. Stood up very well and did not yellow. Varethane does not enhance the colors like 2 pac. I only use varethane on the playfield for spot touch-ups now rather than mylar.
YMMV

#31 3 years ago

For spray dots (speckeling) on cabinets i usually just drill the hole on the spray head on a spray can slightly larger. Very small increase in diameter.
It prevents the paint from being fully atomized and it comes out in droplets.
I practice on cardboard for distance and technique.
I have had good results. YMMV

For 1950s 3 color speckel finish i bought a harbor freight ceiling popcorn gun and used the smallest tip with raw latex paint. Again practice for distance and technique. I taped the distance around my gun game on the floor and painted it. Came out awesome.

#32 3 years ago

Hello @pinballaid, I am happy to hear that there is hope for doing the clear if you cannot spray it. Good news for sure!!

Can you please be specific as to the drill size you use to facilitate the “dots effect” on the cabinet. Is there a specific paint that you have used as this may play a roll as well.

Thank you. This thread has been critically helpful!!

#33 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

I have had good results with varethane on cabinets.
You do not have to spray it. If you brush in on in SUPER thin coats you cannot tell it is brushed on. Usually i use it for 2 reasons:
1) The spray bomb colors i use are different sheens. To make them uniform i clear them all with varethane satin or semi.
2) it allows me to sand down the stencil ridges and clear.
YMMV

Question: when you sand to get rid of the stencil ridges, do you sand the entire cabinet or just where the ridges are?

#34 3 years ago

NOTE:You must let the paints cure. If you total time for a cabinet is 2 weeks, it is unlikely the paint will be cured/dried. This will cause problems.

I usually knock the edge down by lightly sanding with 320-400 grit. As the paint cures the edge will begin to shrink anyway. I am not looking to take away the whole edge at first sanding.
Then i varethane cabinet with a very , very thin coat.
Now that the new paint is somewhat protected, i again lightly sand the edge again. And another very thin coat of varethane. And so on.
It usually takes 3 rounds to get the edge to "minimal or gone"
Buy a GOOD latex paint brush to apply varethane. Cheap brushes with do crappy work.

#35 3 years ago

I have drilled out more than on rattle can over the years to do this.
I have done black, silver and i think a purple or red.
I have a machinist drill index and have chosen bits as needed. I start with the smallest and test each size increase on poster board or cardboard. Testing includes distance. In general, once the hole is enlarged, you will need to spray 2 to 3 feet from the cabinet. Too far and the droplets will be long, not round. Too close and they will be too big and run. It is trial and error. But the hole is only "slightly" enlarged.
I am sorry i didnt write what size they were but will next time around.

I use this same process when repainting later williams coin doors. I spray the door with a base coat of semi- gloss black. I drill out a gloss black, lay the door on the floor, and walk around it spraying over it and letting the droplets land on the door.

For rattle cans, especially black, i prefer rustoleum. It has a heavier pigment than krylon.

#36 3 years ago

Thank you very much PinballAir I understand the concept of trail and error. What you have shared will help considerably. Appreciate also that you spoke of doing a Williams coin door. Kind of wondered how they did that or at least how to replicate. Thank you kindly

#37 3 years ago

Question fellas. I found a brush to use for splatter painting the c37 cab. It is called a Kemper Splatter Brush. Clay mentioned this on his site. I would prefer to use an oil base paint to do this. It am concerned about getting a splatter that does not look as I desire and then try to remove it which would most likely result in needing to repaint the base coat. How about using a latex black and if one gets an area that does not look as desired it is far more possible to just wipe it off and keep going. Thoughts...

#38 3 years ago

If you're referring to a spatter brush similar to the one in the picture below, I can tell you I found it easier to just use a stiff brush, also shown in the picture below. If you do decide to use the spatter brush, be advised that it spatters 360 degrees, so dress appropriately and wear eye wear. I would stay away from oil as it may be too thick and leave raised spatter as happened to me with enamel, which is why I switched to lacquer. Whatever you use, have some naptha clean rags ready so if you screw up part of it, you can quickly wipe it clean and try again.

e1b7d48dd59988a6b26a37af771311f3ea8362e7.jpeg (resized).jpge1b7d48dd59988a6b26a37af771311f3ea8362e7.jpeg (resized).jpg
#39 3 years ago

Thank you @topcard!! Always grateful fir your insight. I will go with the pint you suggested. This is kind of the nervous part as I just got the head to the point where I’m ok with it. Don’t want to mess it up. Thank you again

#40 3 years ago

Been doing some reading and it appears that lacquer may be harder to come by. Do you recall the brand that that you used?

#41 3 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

Been doing some reading and it appears that lacquer may be harder to come by. Do you recall the brand that that you used?

See post number 8 on this thread.

#42 3 years ago

Thank you Topcard I’m a bit of a newb in this dept but if you would be so kind, do you know the difference between what you used and krylon for example. In the event I cannot find a lacquer, would that be a reasonable alternative? Or, and this happens often, am I overthinking this? Maybe the krylon is an enamel type of paint and you advised it resulted in slightly raised speckles. Thank you again sir

#43 3 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

Thank you topcard I’m a bit of a newb in this dept but if you would be so kind, do you know the difference between what you used and krylon for example. In the event I cannot find a lacquer, would that be a reasonable alternative? Or, and this happens often, am I overthinking this? Maybe the krylon is an enamel type of paint and you advised it resulted in slightly raised speckles. Thank you again sir

You should have no problem finding it. Home Depot and Lowes sell it. I went with it after experiencing the raised spatter, when I read several threads about people using it in an air gun to create webbing, which is another effect that can be tough to get down but fortunately wasn't used on C37. I can just tell you that it is lighter than regular paint so it lays flatter.

#44 3 years ago
Quoted from Topcard:

You should have no problem finding it. Home Depot and Lowes sell it. I went with it after experiencing the raised spatter, when I read several threads about people using it in an air gun to create webbing, which is another effect that can be tough to get down but fortunately wasn't used on C37. I can just tell you that it is lighter than regular paint so it lays flatter.

You da man!! Hny

#45 3 years ago

Happy New Year Fellas

Just wanted to say that I just used the Kemper Splatter Brush and the results were fantastic!! No mess no issues. Looks damn close to the original, seriously! Highly recommend for anyone who is doing a cabinet repaint. This thing is great and only costs about $8. Amazon. Clay has also suggested this tool in his writings as well.

Was very concerned I would frick up the cabinet and have to repaint. No worries. Didn’t happen. I did have one blotch that was a bit heavy but the Naptha was at hand and ready and took it right off. Re-spatter and it’s all good.

All that over thinking for nothing!!!

#46 3 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

Happy New Year Fellas
Just wanted to say that I just used the Kemper Splatter Brush and the results were fantastic!! No mess no issues. Looks damn close to the original, seriously! Highly recommend for anyone who is doing a cabinet repaint. This thing is great and only costs about $8. Amazon. Clay has also suggested this tool in his writings as well.
Was very concerned I would frick up the cabinet and have to repaint. No worries. Didn’t happen. I did have one blotch that was a bit heavy but the Naptha was at hand and ready and took it right off. Re-spatter and it’s all good.
All that over thinking for nothing!!!

Glad to hear it went well. Sometimes you just have to dive right in, but a little research never hurts. Looking forward to seeing some photos when complete. By the way, I posted the picture below to show you that the Blossom White actually is pretty spot on if you want that fresh from the factory look.
IMG_8796 (resized).jpgIMG_8796 (resized).jpg

#47 3 years ago

Man you read my mind Topcard I was looking at the back box yesterday after I splattered it and thought “wow, that is white” so hearing your report makes me feel a bit better. Thank you. Appreciate all your kind help and guidance

1 week later
#48 3 years ago

Hi Guys

Well I started using the stencils today and all has gone well so far. Question I have is what is the cure tine if you will using Montana spray paints that one should wait before applying the second stencil? Don’t want the second stencil to lift off the new first color. Any thoughts here fellas? Thank you as always

1 week later
#49 3 years ago

Brief update. I completed the painting of the back box today and I have to say that it turned out well! I decided to use Montana brand semi gloss Taylor can varnish. It is Non yellowing and has uv protection as part of the formula. This stuff dried very quickly and the resulting finish is uniform and nice. I really can’t see the game coming off the line looking any better! Now. I need to start sanding the cabinet and do all that I have done here to the cabinet. Obviously a much larger surface area so I expect it to take longer but I think I know now how to exact the results that I am seeking. A great deal of thanks to all in this thread as without your kind help and guidance I am sure I would be resanding the head by now. The big key to this whole process??? Patience. Let each coat of paint set. Especially the first base coat of Rustoleum Blossom White. That stuff I have a week before I tried doing the splatter painting. It needed the time. Then, gave the splatter paint about three days to cure and then started on the first color yellow. Gave that 3-4 days to cure and then onto the pink. Another 3 days and then used the varnish to provide a uniform sheen. This is not hard work but it is labor intensive. Especially if you’re doing this inside as I am. You need to have an area that can be closed off from the rest of the house. Wish I could do this outside but I’m not waiting months!! Thank you all again!!

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