For whatever reason, my brain glazes over when trying learn more about EM support. I bought a game awhile back because the lure of the chimes and the challenge to learn more about EM pinball repair. The chimes still work their magic, but my game has never seemed to need serious repair. Absent of a needed problem to fix, I tried to learn about EMs in general and have only mustered apathy. For example, I devoured the This Old Pinball videos on solid state, but fell asleep during three separate attempts to view an EM one. It's like trying to teach a baseball fan cricket. Despite a mostly honest effort, I've remained an EM noob.

My C37 receives the least play of my collection and maybe that's why I did not notice the lighting issue was so pronounced. I was recently watching an online game play video and noticed that the insert lights alternate on every hit. It's not just rollovers, but the pops too that cause the change. Mine does not seem to work that way.

This expertly captured video shows how the lights function on my game:

When I turn my game on the lights will switch and after a few games they will flicker on the rollovers, but not the constant swapping that it seems they are supposed to do. My match number also does not automatically change at the end of each game.

From what I've read in the other threads about this issue, it seems like this part in the image below is the culprit, but I'm not sure if I am right or what is wrong with the part. I partially disassembled it and cleaned everything that looked like a contact. I think the only change is that the light flicker more frequently now on a rollover.

As I mentioned, the lights do swap when I start a game, so it's capable of working at least partially.
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It looks like their might be a broken piece of plastic on the assembly for the gears. Could that be the issue? If so, where would I even get that part?

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Any suggestions on how to perform this kind of basic EM repair or point me in the right direction would be much appreciated.

Thanks for the confirmation that I'm looking at the correct part, but it's a mixed blessing. I've tinkered with the part to no positive effect and everything I read is that it's a pain to dial in. I'm worried that with the armature to hold the drive finger in place cracked and missing a piece on one side, it might never play nice without a replacement. Of course, it seems the A14044 is not available.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks for the link. That will be most helpful.

I've done a couple partial disassembles and cleaning, but I'm going to try a full tear apart tonight.

My biggest concern is still the broken plastic on the armature that causes the drive finger to wobble. I just wonder if this ever can aligned with the necessary precision with a broken (unavailable?) part.

Looks like I might be going that route. My total tear down, clean, and reassembly had no discernible impact.

Something that just occurred to me, but can anyone tell me if these switches are supposed to be closed at rest or gapped?

on the wind

Thanks for all the offers and assistance!

I was so focused on the broken plastic and needing to clean everything, I shot past what is now obvious... Gaps are important.

My eyes are worse than I thought. It took the zoomed in pic to even notice that the stack seemed off.

Blinky lights are back and the anorexic scoliosis twins are once again fully functional.