(Topic ID: 149390)

Centaur - Switch help needed

By Cheddar

8 years ago


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  • 32 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by Cheddar
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2016-01-21_10.05.49_(resized).jpg
Switch_Numbers_(resized).png
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#1 8 years ago

Symptom: When a ball is served to the shooter lane or either flipper is triggered I get 10 points. The points aren't as annoying as the sound it makes every time.

Tried:

Switch matrix test shows switch 34 is closed. This is the 10 point switch to the right of the right pop bumper. Just below the green target.

The switch does not test closed. I unwired it and it still reports closed.

I temporarily swapped in an alltek mpu and it has the same issue. I also have a rottendog SDB installed.

I don't fully understand the switch matrix yet but looking at the diagram it looks like I should check the diodes on: both flipper buttons, left side rollover, and the right slingshot. (not sure the direction the matrix scans so I'll check them all)

Am I on the right track?

Thanks

#2 8 years ago

Bally will often use the same switch# for several locations.

So, Switch #34 will not be just one switch up by the Pops, but also the 10pt switches in the triangles above the outlanes. So you need to investigate 5 possible switches that all register in parallel as #34.

You did not say when this started, but if you recently put on new rubbers......

#3 8 years ago

Just bought the game Sunday and the rubbers look pretty fresh.

Quoted from vid1900:

Bally will often use the same switch# for several locations.
So, Switch #34 will not be just one switch up by the Pops, but also the 10pt switches in the triangles above the outlanes. So you need to investigate 5 possible switches that all register in parallel as #34.

This was it. I checked and adjusted these switches. Second one I tried was the problem.

Thanks for your help and for the knowledge about the re-used switch locations!

#4 8 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

Thanks for your help and for the knowledge about the re-used switch locations!

I don't have the schematics here, but often the switch will have a number in parentheses (3) showing that it is used in 3 total locations.

Then on the switch and solenoid layout page in the manual (solenoids are squares, switches are circles) the same switch number will be marked in several locations.

#5 8 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I don't have the schematics here, but often the switch will have a number in parentheses (3) showing that it is used in 3 total locations.
Then on the switch and solenoid layout page in the manual (solenoids are squares, switches are circles) the same switch number will be marked in several locations.

Yep this one is marked (5) but without any indication of what that means.

Thanks again!

#6 8 years ago

It's prolly a 10 point leaf switch behind various rubbers around the playfield. The (5) means there are five of them, so just go around the playfield and find the one that is stuck closed. I had this exact problem on Fireball II once.

#7 8 years ago

Solving 1 problem brings up another. Dropping the O orbs target causes the 10k target to drop (sometimes the 20k too). As long as the O target is down the right flipper and sometimes the left causes the 10, then 20... 80k targets to drop. When all down they reset and then the flipper continues to drop them in order.

This one had an easy clue though. It looked like the spot target was being triggered. I looked at the spot target and the cap was shorted. Removed the cap and the problem went away. I need to order up some diodes, caps and while I'm at it get a few of the SCRs for the lamps I have out.

progress is being made.

#8 8 years ago

Ok, now I have another weird set of issues. I replaced several scrs on the lamp driver board and since then something weird is happening.

In switch test the right outlane reports switch 5, it goes right to left (r inlane 6, l inlane 7, l outlane 8). They should report 45 through 48.

In play they cause the following actions:
R outlane causes the right sling to fire, r inlane the left sling, l inlane cause tilt and l outlane the slam tilt. These are switches 37, 38, 15 and 16.

I've got a load of replacement diodes but I don't want to shotgun it. I've researched matrix troubleshooting and drawing the box but it doesn't seem to lead anywhere.

Anybody have any troubleshooting advice?

#9 8 years ago

Unresolved this topic. Goes deeper than expected.

#10 8 years ago

I don't have diodes on my tilt or the coin switches. If they should have been there how has it been working?

#11 8 years ago

The online manual does not have the switch matrix diagram, can you post an image of it?

I got a little lost in your description. Using switch numbers, what switch do you close and what switch indicates closed?

#12 8 years ago

Here's the switch matrix and the switch numbers

In Play
R Outlane (45) triggers R Sling (37)
R Inlane (46) triggers L Sling(38)
L Inlane (47) triggers Tilt (15)
L Outlane(48) triggers Slam (16)

In Switch Test
R Outlane (45) triggers Top L Lane (05)
R Inlane (46) triggers Credit Button (06)
L Inlane (47) triggers (07)
L Outlane(48) triggers Outhole (08)

Thanks for your help

Switch_matrix_(resized).pngSwitch_matrix_(resized).png

Switch_Numbers_(resized).pngSwitch_Numbers_(resized).png

#13 8 years ago

So 45 triggers 37 and only 37? In other words it doesn't trigger 45 also? If I remember correctly Centaur should scroll through the closed switches so you may have to wait a little bit to see if any other switches are indicating closed.

Also remove all balls from the game, raise drop targets and see if the same thing happens.

#14 8 years ago

Ok additional data:

In switch test 45 activates 05 only, 46 does 06, etc... Holding down te switch does not indicate other numbers.

In play switch 45 (r outlane) activitates the outlane, switch 37 (r sling) and 29 (S drop target).

Switch 46 (r inlane) does the same with the next row (l sling, b drop).

The box theory doesn't help here since they're all on the same row.

It doesn't act like an entire row failure since the switches are registering.

#15 8 years ago

Ok if I assume this is entire rows triggering and not just switch issues then I have a short(s) somewhere. This will be easy enough to test as all I have to to is test continuity on any affected row(s) switch to ground. It's weird that it's 4 rows but I'll check that next.

#16 8 years ago

Update: couldn't find a short on the lane switches. I was able to verify that all switches on those 3 rows are firing when the last switch in the row is triggered. No other switch in that row does this.

Still digging.

#17 8 years ago

Keep in mind, Bally switch test only show the lowest closed switch number. So, there could be others that it would not show you.

And coin switches never had diodes since they are never supposed to be closed for more than about 35ms. I think the same hold for the plumb Bob tilt.

#18 8 years ago

Do the feature light change (ones that weren't lit, now light) when you close any of the problem switches (and then go back out) ? You could have a bad strobe output (bad PIA).

#19 8 years ago

I thought it might be mpu but the same issue happens with an alltek board.

#20 8 years ago
Quoted from CactusJack:

Keep in mind, Bally switch test only show the lowest closed switch number. So, there could be others that it would not show you.

I wasn't aware of that on Bally, but I can say that seriously sucks. How are you supposed to troubleshoot a switch matrix problem w/o that info?

OP, please do as I previously asked--hopefully this will help us back into the rectangle.

Quoted from terryb:

Also remove all balls from the game, raise drop targets and see if the same thing happens.

Also have you done any work on any of the switches prior to the problem?

#21 8 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

OP, please do as I previously asked--hopefully this will help us back into the rectangle.

Also have you done any work on any of the switches prior to the problem?

I should have been more clear. The game play numbers have the balls in of course. The switch test numbers are all balls removed and all drops up.

#22 8 years ago

Can you check all the strobe lines. A logic probe is best, but you can get by (typically) with a meter. If a column is not pulsing it will read higher than the others.

#23 8 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

Can you check all the strobe lines. A logic probe is best, but you can get by (typically) with a meter. If a column is not pulsing it will read higher than the others.

I have a logic tester. I'll check this out. Is it likely though that I'd have this problem with a bally board and an alltek?

#24 8 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

Is it likely though that I'd have this problem with a bally board and an alltek?

Something could be pulling the signal down.

This is a tough one since the system doesn't report all switches that are closed.

Have you done any work on the game, or is it new to you and came with this problem?

I would also check any exposed switches on the playfield for the diode shorting to one of the switch lugs. This is fairly common on games where a pinball can hit the switch.

#25 8 years ago

It's new to me. It worked for most of a week but I had several controlled lamps out so I replaced the affected scrs. That fixed the lamps but led to the problem.

My guess is lifting the playfield out might have caused some issue. I've tested the switches and don't have any grounding. Next to test continuity from switch to switch.

I need to do some research on how to use the logic probe to check the column strobe

#26 8 years ago

Ask and you shall receive.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-guide-to-logic-probes

Quoted from Cheddar:

My guess is lifting the playfield out might have caused some issue. I've tested the switches and don't have any grounding.

Did you check both the column and the row for shorts to ground (test on each side of the diode). It actually sounds like more of a column issue, although you're only seeing symptoms on 4 rows. On the other hand, unlikely to have 4 rows go out at once.

#27 8 years ago

4 updates.

1. I have some damage to fix. I worry that if both grounded it could feed GI voltage to the switch matrix.
2. I have verified the issue affects all switches in a row when any switch in the last column (#6) is triggered
3. Did a simple logic test. All of the columns behave the same way (vid attached)
4. Put my alltek in xenon and it works fine. BUT! Xenon doesn't use this column, D'OH!

2016-01-21_10.05.49_(resized).jpg2016-01-21_10.05.49_(resized).jpg

p.s. Sorry for the shaky cam

#28 8 years ago

Maybe it's the angle in the video, but column 6 does not appear to be pulsing the green led as the other columns do.

I think the LP900 reads the same as the 560 (meaning a high signal with a low pulses should be red on, green off and yellow flashing), but it may be reading the signal as a clock, which would be red on, green on and yellow flashing. In any case if column 6 reads different than the others there's a problem with column 6.

Is the logic probe connected to 12 volts and set on TTL?

#29 8 years ago

Ok figured out my test issue. Column 6 comes off a different connector.

Here's an updated video. It does appear dimmer

#30 8 years ago

Its all looking to me as if you have a bad connection from ST5 on the playfield to the MPU board.

Oddly enough, ST5 is an afterthought. There is no pull up resistor and diode like on ST0-4. So, as you can see by the Switch matrix chart you attached, there is a 3.3K pull up resistor added which goes back to +5VDC on the power connector of the MPU. So, that is the source of the positive voltage which is used to see a switch closure. But, ST5 through A4J4 pin 5 must be pulled down by the MPU board (PIA output) when it is reading other switch strobes. Without that connection, you have a continuous High (ON) strobe and any switch you close on ST5 (the ones you list above) would result in the MPU reading any switch on that return.

And, there appears to be an error in the schematic. In the playfield switch matrix drawing, it states ST5 comes from A4J4 Pin 8. In the Wiring Diagram Back Box chart, it correctly shows ST5 comes from A4J4 Pin 5, not from Pin 8.

I would check continuity from the back side (Anode) of any of the diodes on those ST5 switches to Pin 5 on J4 on the CPU. Or, just take a jewelers screwdriver and push the wire deeper into the IDC connector which is more likely your problem unless you have a cut wire in the main playfield loom.

#31 8 years ago

Thanks CactusJack, I will try this out

#32 8 years ago
Quoted from CactusJack:

Or, just take a jewelers screwdriver and push the wire deeper into the IDC connector which is more likely your problem unless you have a cut wire in the main playfield loom.

We have a bingo! Thanks to you CactusJack for the final solution! I'll repin those connectors.

Also thanks to Terryb and Vid1900 for the help with the first issues.

Pinside is great because of pinsiders like you guys. If I can find a a way to donate to pinside in your name I will, if not I'll just donate again.

Thanks again!

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