Are you sure the outlet the game's plugged into has power? You could plug in a lamp or something to test it.

check the fuse with a meter not by eye

If your home circuit breaker tripped and the main fuse isn't blown, the problem is probaby upstream. Check your outlet, inspect power cord for damage, EMI filter. Take apart the power supply assembly to see if something shorted out. I once had a small washer fall and get wedged in by the power connector and cause a fault.

You probably have a shorted MOV across the line filter where the line cord comes in. It looks like a large disc capacitor and is usually soldered across two of the terminals of the silver EMI filter. This, unfortunately, is often before any line fuses so the only protection is your house circuit breaker or a 15 amp circuit breaker on a power strip if you use them.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide#post-1945121

The link to Great Plains Electronics G-P-E is still good and Ed can probably tell you which MOV to buy.

Rarely do the EMI line filters go bad. A short is almost always the MOV. The temporary test is clip one lead of it and see if the dead short across the line cord is gone. It's purpose is to asborb high voltage spikes. They can only take so many hits and then usually fail by shorting out.

For 120v line countries:

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=V130LA20AP

Glad I added that info about country. If 220/240, I think your MOV is rated around 260v or 275v.

MOV for UK: V275LA40BP

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=76

Also, as a side note, one you get the game to where it powers up again, you really should replace the fuse clips on F5, especially the upper one. That clip is bad and you can tell how hot it gets by how black the PC board has gotten around it. Make sure to get the ones that are rated for High Voltage (15/20 AMP)!

Yup, that's the one!

As Jeff mentioned above -- fuse F5 definitely has a problem that needs some attention. I suggest replacing with a high current fuse clip such as BK/1A1907-03 (Bussmann) or 0122088Z (Littelfuse)

Ed

F5_Problem (resized).jpg

A Pinside tip: If G-P-E posts it, it's pretty much gospel........

I suggested (via your PM), to clip the MOV lead close to the solder joint (not next to the component). If you did, it could be resoldered back onto the lug.

That dark spot appears to be some kind of oil or liquid leaking out of the EMI filter. Therefore, I might suspect it as being a problem.

If you change the EMI filter, you might as well install a fresh MOV.

Okay, new approach:

Can you solder/unsolder (like changing a coil)?

Do you have a working ohm meter (DVM)?

If yes to both, you should check across the two spades of your line cord for a short. If you have a ground pin (not sure how things are typically wired overseas), you should check each spade to ground. No shorts should exist. If you find a short, it could be one of three things:

Shorted MOV (already been cut out of circuit).

Shorted EMI filter (never seen one in my 35 years of tech work, only ones that open up circuit. But then, I don't normally work with much equipment connected to 220).

A short in the line cord or plug. Check for crimp marks, if molded plug is replaced, suspect shorted wiring inside. I am not understanding your "replaced plug fuse"? I have never seen a fused plug other than on a string of Christmas lights.

If the cord and plug check out okay, one would unsolder the line cord from the EMI filter and retest for the short - across terminals on the EMI filter, and wires of the cord.

If your fuse blows even with the power switch off there has to be a short in the wiring somewhere before the switch. You've disconnected the MOV so it can't be that. Without a meter to test I would inspect that live wire carefully all the way from the plug to the switch. My suspicion is that burnt fuse clip has a carbon path to ground but that clip shouldn't be before the power switch.

No need to buy both if the 5VB3 is available locally.
Electrically, the 5VB3 is a drop in replacement with hookup leads like your existing filter. Shape of filter is a little different, though, so you will need to mount differently (mounting screws are on sides instead of ends).
The 5EB1 is the same filter but you either solder or use quick-connects to hook him up.

You can test the filter with a meter in resistance mode. There should not be a short between hot and neutral but you will see a bit of resistance between the two. About 10Mohm based on the label shown in your photo above. There should be no continuity at all between either hot or neutral and the case of the filter.

Original filter installed would actually be closer to Corcom's 3VB3 which would also work if you can find it. But I always thought the 3A version of power filter was a bit too dainty.
Did notice that Corcom still does sell the 3EP3 which is what you currently have installed. They cost more than 2x that of the other filters... I'd just go to the 5VB3.

Yes, yellow/green (or sometimes solid green) is earth ground. Many EMls only have a single ground wire/connection. You could install an eyelet on the existing wire and put it under one of the mounting screw.

Looks like a redundant ground connection.
Strange - the 3EP3 data sheet doesn't have 6-wires, it has five.

Can find the data sheet for these here:
http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/351160/MACOM/3EP3.html

As well as yourself, Vid.

It is common for the flipper button switch, as well as the Flipper Mechanism End of Stroke switch to "arc" when opening and closing. The arc occurs at just the right moment when the air gap is just right for power to jump across the air thereby creating the arc.

Additionally, the lower left flipper has a special end of stroke switch which is used to energize the upper left flipper. So it can produce an arc also.