As far as I can tell, back in the 1980's all Bally Centaurs
had standard balls. Take into consideration that you are using
laser cut plastic and not the original steel rule die cut plastic.
variations will a cure from recreating one set of plastic from the other.
When the games were in the arcades that I worked at the
ball in the queen's chamber never popped out.
Has far as stuck balls in inline drop target assemblies,
Electra was notorious for that problem.

I agree. But don't claim your mods as OEM; there not.

That is why there is no rubber post nut cut out into the
lower right plastic of the "Queens Chamber" plastic.
You just lift the corner to insert the ball.
The slot was used to help technicians adjust the bottom
plate in order to flush mount the drop targets. This process
became more difficult as the mold to the drop targets changed
from one lot manufacture to the other.
Bally put round cutouts to some of their key plastic pieces
in order to help repair technician/arcades service employees,
test target switches and rollover buttons without having to
breakdown the playfield. In all, to facilitate diagnostics for switch failures.
--

I was hoping somebody would do the Twighlite Zone thing
and put a white "power ball" in the captive ball feature and
see how it plays.
--
Finally, there is only one pinball that Bally had
instructions for what to do with the balls that came
with the game, how each ball is installed in the game, and
that was Goldball.

Yes! and this was the weakest link to Bally's Electra.

calico1997
Well, it depends on what you like?
Flash Gordon = tough game
Eightball deluxe = classic (got lifetime achievement award)
and was made three times!
With any solid state Bally pinball, you have to
remember there is a limitation on the programming.
The boards they used we not designed for deep programming
rules. Thus, what you think looks good does equate to how you
like it. Play around, at the shows, you might find a game that
ticks your fancy.

Minus the two obscure return lane plastics that nobody uses.
Another miss by Classic Playfield Reproduction.
(Bally had an option to remove the bounce back feature by
fiscally redesigning the return lanes.) Yes, it makes the
game harder.

Yes!

I was, USA, but I was not in any foreign countries.
Thus, they do whatever they do.
The arcade I worked at had a tournament, and the top prize
for the game Centaur was a black leather jacket with
Centaur on the back. The custom jacket was pretty cool.

I have yet to play a Centaur pinball with a bad magnet.
Reading stored ball switches, on the other hand, all the time.
As for the Addams Family pinball, the left magnet goes out,
all the time, this problem started after the game was out
and about for a proximity three to four years.

calico1997
The Bally Solenoid Expander relay had two functions.
1) Expand the allotted solenoids in a game.
2) As a Snubber relay to one coil.
Bally used it as a Snubber relay to the ball kickout assembly
on Centaur. Thus, the clipped jumper.
On all other Bally pinballs from the early 80's, it is used as
a Solenoid Expander.

Bally Centaur uses the 1-1/16 coil sleeve OEM. Out side of
1) Knocker coil.
2) Drop Target reset coils.
3) Drop Target memory coils.

The drop target reset coil sleeve is 5/8 O.D. x 2 inch.
Bally Midway # 0017-00041-0673.
Marco Specialties has them.

You should have taken pictures and notes.....
1) stand up switches/brackets #6 x 1/2" long
2) lamps #6 x 3/8" long
3)playfield support hinge bracket #8 x 5/8" long (Philips pan head)
Note: For playfield support hinge bracket be careful, one can use two 3/4" long screw
------- with one 5/8" long screw for each bracket. The longer ones can go through the
------- playfield and into the side rails wile the other screw is used in the middle hole
------- and does not go through the playfield.
4) #10 x 1/2" long hwh sms can be used to beef-up flipper assemblies and sling shot
------ assemblies to the mounting of the playfield.
Note: The left sling shot assembly mounting screws have conflict with top spool mount
------ support post (brass hardware). One needs to grind down bottom mounting hardware
------ to help fit the two opposing sides. Be careful....

Looks like a Back to the Future scene is being made. I hope you
can post a video of what the finished product sounds like. :0)

Are you going to get real Bally legs or are you going to keep
the black William's ones?

Does the speaker box clear the pitch of the playfield when up?

That reminds me of a service call on a Bally Captain Fantastic I did many years ago.
The game came from a pub in England and it was completely carved up with high scores.
The owner thought it gave the game 'character'.

The CPU was designed years before the S&T was. By program standards at the factory
A block of memory is spared for fixing software bugs. "Good software practices".
I asked that question about the S*T many years ago at Bally and they said at the time
that there is just not enough room in the ROMs.

Note: on Centaur, the solenoid expander relay board is used as a solenoid snubber assembly.
--- it is only used as a snubber on Centaur and Centaur2 only. No other Bally game is it used
--- this way.
--- No lamp SCR is used to drive the snubber; hence no extra lamp socket is present.
--- Q11 a SE9302 is used to drive the snubber assembly.
--- Q11 is located on the Voltage Regulator/ Solenoid Driver board.
--- The launch solenoid AO-25-950 has only one diode. It is not part of a matrix.

@AJNada
Congratulations!

Oh LORD, that is your G.I. Triac. The Triac allows A.C. current to go in either direction.
The board that drives it is located on the playfield by the center drop targets.

Yes, just a little. Remember you have a proximately twenty volts ac going through
-- the device.

Any game lasting longer than 3.5 minutes, and you are losing money.
Factory suggested setting at the time was 3 balls @ 50¢ per game.
Or an extra game if you put in a whole dollar.

The top mini post is a through hole post that has a nut and external tooth lock washer attached to it (under the playfield).

The 4th trough switch could be sticky, it could not be opening up at the same time the ball closes the outhole switch.

Note: Bally is part of Midway at the time Centaur II is made. The ribbed posts that Bally used are now out of fashion.
-- Star posts are in! From Marco Specialties 03-8269-9 Post #6 1 3/16"
-- ref. Data East part No. 550-5033-02.
-- All Centaur IIs are made with #6 1 3/16" red star posts.

Note: bgresto.com has copies of Centaur II backglass.
-- They can reproduce a backglass for you.

Coin door wiring....
From left to right.
Hinge side first... start button side last.
--------------------------------------------
Coin NO.1___Coin NO.2_____Coin NO.3__ All ST1 [14] Red-Green wire.
[65] _______ [20]________[15]_____.
Brown-White____Blue________Red-White___.
TEST MODE......
#10 _______#11_________#9.

Does that mean that the diode is in the same position (switch tabs) on all the coin door switches?
Yes.
_____Coin Micro Switch_______________
_________________________________
--------( )----[actuator]
---tab-------center tab---------- end tab.
Cathode------Anode______________________[Diode location]
___________ common _______return strobe.__[ Switch Strobe wiring]
____________ST1 [14]____________________[ Red-Green wire]

"Try side awards double": reference for queens chamber.

If you shoot the ball through the side two rollover buttons and hit the "boot-a-ball" and the ball
hits/drops a drop target, the award point value is double.

Not a good quality rubber ring.
Centaur chart should be.....
1.) R-206-11 mini (3)
2.) R-243 5/16" (18)
3.) R-521 3/4" (3)
4.) R-521-1 1" (1)
5.) R-521-2 1 1/2" (1)
6.) R-521-3 2" (4)
7.) R-521-4 2 1/2" (3)
8.) R-533-1 flipper (2)

@Rat. I got to see this game when it was new on the showroom floor.
Note: Bally drop targets are doubled. Scrutinize the game's flyer very carefully.
Note: The games made in this era used ABC rubber rings, which have a smaller diameter.
That, the new rubber ring manufacturers have forgotten. As far as your slingshot kickers go...
I would relax the rubber rings before it is put on the posts. The kickers are a 2" size ring.
P.S. I have had a couple of bad 2" and 2 1/2" and even 1" rubber rings in the past.

The rubber rings.

That is because you probably do not have a Bally 1975 parts catalog.
Also, you probably did not go to the distributor shows back in 1980's when
Bally was still a business and could see a firsthand OEM product.

Backglass resto has them. bgresto.com

O.K. you get an image of the backglass art that is mounted on glass.
Then, you can add the trimming to it and install it into your game.
The product is like a silkscreen backglass, but it is not. It is, however, the next best thing.

I used polycarbonate plastic... for the return lanes... put the OEMs on top... never had them break?
It was done many years ago.
Stern's Fight 2000 wanted one to drill two holes and add a metal guide rail just under the plastic.

Centaur #1 had black chamber and white O,R,B,S as well as white 1,2,3,4.
Centaur #2 had white chamber and black O,R,B,S as well as white 1,2,3,4.
However, sometime in late supplying of parts, Bally made black 1,2,3,4 targets that somehow
became the defaulting for Centaur #2.
Black 1,2,3,4, targets did not show up till about 1984 after the run of Centaur #2.
As far as targets go... try Pinball Resource.

This kind of sums it up... for all the game operator that went to the game shows
back in the day... You got to see the newest releases from the top 4ish pinball manufactures.
Bally, Williams, Gottlieb, Stern... Game Plan... Zaccaria... "Pinball kits" from Europe...
1983 was a cutback year.
Bally would produce games that only had little development that would not cost much.
At that time there was still a demand for Eight Ball Deluxe Deluxe and Centaur... and
Bally had over produced cabinets to Rapid Fire So...the rest is history.

Try the first ball trough switch? I modified the first ball trough switch to a long flat blade style...
It stopped all ball trough read problems; as far as I know.

Try an outhole style switch that has a light weight actuator...
Or a Williams micro drop target style switch...
You have to modify to fit and you have to drill new mounting holes in the bracket?
I believe... it has been many years sense I have done it to a Bally Centaur.

You are going to have to find the part or have the part reproduced.

Bally Nut & Spring Bracket
( Left Hand )
P-7939-1
Good luck.

1) the regular large size. Gottlieb ref. A-15705 27/64" o.d.
2) The top right rollover ring is off. The large ring should around four post, not three.
3) Take your 6th 2" ring and fit it around the right drop targets. Or/2-1/2" rubber ring.
Note: Bally doubles their playfield drop target rubber rings...
(check the games back and middle flyer pictures for clarifications).

Yup. The top left plastic guide rails are doubled (Bally part #C-693-11).
The far right plastic guide rail is single ( Bally part # C-694-11).
Note: Bally part # can be off.

Need the solder lug for the spring. Looks good.

Centaur uses the old Bally EM support brackets from the 1960's to early 1970's.
Twin Win and earlier games...
right-- A-3017
left --- A-3017-1

I found that the 1st trough micro switch is always problematic.
During my years in the arcades, I got to work on a Centaur that had
multi-ball launch issues... I installed a flat blade actuator micro switch and
it seemed to solve the problem.

"How many flashes on the mpu led when you turn the game on?"
The LED is locked on. So not even the first flash...

Did you reseated the connectors to the game?

Do all the solenoids work correctly?
The snd board uses the same drive lines.

1) Check cold solder joints to the voltage/solenoid board.
--- I have seen bad transistor connections.
---------------------------------------------------------------
2) Check continuity:
CPU---Volt/Sol board --S&Q
A4J4-1 to A3J4-3 to A14J1-4
A4J4-2 to A3J4-4 to A14J1-3
A4J4-3 to A3J4-5 to A14J1-2
A4J4-4 to A3J4-6 to A14J1-1
*
A4J4-10 to A3J4-7 to A14J1-8

I guess you would call this version of Centaur, the sleek black metal version.
Very nice.

Center panel has two slide angle brackets that must be pushed to the back of the cabinet...
The angle brackets are located to the left and right sides of the opening from the top back box.

I had the game back in 1980's The game was made with regular standard pinballs.
The distributor for Bally never had a service bulletin for changing the balls etc,etc,etc.
It is another pinside mod being treated as a fact.
"I can't wait when Pin Stadium lighting will be declared OEM to 1990 Data East pinballs".

That part is tempered steel. Industrial material supply stores have a conditioner
for blue tampered steel. I have seen the stuff... never tried it.

No. It was just plain Blue tempered steel

pasted_image (resized).png

That would be interesting.

I wish they would just put simple dimple marks.
That way one could do the final mark positions.

I am hoping a kind Centaur owner could take a few clean pictures of the upper left side of the playfield.
I need a few reference pictures from the underside where the hinge bracket is and lamp sockets.
It's the inline queens chamber area... much appreciated.

Cheers, vec-tor.

gdonovan much appreciated.

gdonovan Excellent! Thank you!
"Looks like I have some work to do".

Thank you again @gdonovan, you are awesome!

You could check the coil stop and see if some residue is on the ends of the plunger and stop.
It happens to EM games ... especially the score drum units.
Once the stop and plungers are clean the problem usually goes away.

Or you could manually trip the 4th ball trough switch.

The Bally game manuals do not illustrate the playfield parts.

Check the 1amp slow-blow fuse on the playfield underside.

1) put game in solenoid test mode. does anything work?
1a) knocker, coin lockout, flipper relay?
2) if starting a game does the flippers work?
3) check schematics... flippers get wired first for +45 volts...brown wire.
3a) from playfield fuse...yellow wire is daisy-chained to each main solenoid.
3b) +45 volts present to kickers, thumper bumpers, drop targets?
4) data lines from CPU to solenoid voltage regulator board.
4a) check continuity, cold solder joints, broken wires, bad connectors...
4b) check +5 volt jumper wire from input connector to solenoid transistor circuitry.
4c) can you jump temporally from GND to tips of the SE9302 transistors.
--- do solenoids fire?

I do not know if you want me to answer that question.
But..... If in multi-ball and the last two balls "drain stack" and get fed into
the underground trough.... well, kick a ball out...
Proper game operations is;
four balls underground, one ball on top.

FWIW: I'm having to rebuild a Centaur from a CPR playfield.
1st pix, is how off the trap-flap registration holes are.
I like to test fit every component to make sure that each piece has the
best outcome from being fitted into a new surface.
IMG_0004[1] (resized).JPG
2nd pix are of the holes that are dowel filled in.
IMG_0005[1] (resized).JPG
Finally, the 3rd pix of the under playfield bottom shot.
IMG_0006[1] (resized).JPG
Cheers.

Check for a broken wire on the two switch strobes that converge to the outhole switch.
[ I7 = wire color 52 white-blue ] most likely switch wire to left outlane.
[ ST0 = wire color 51 white-red ] most likely switch to ball trough 4th,5th.
You can test continuity by using voltmeter to test wire colors.
If all good, then something is wrong with the main switch.

That problem is inherit to the game.
I did a modification to the 1st ball micro switch. I used a long flat blade type.
That stopped a lot of problems with the game.

Approximately 25 6/32 "T" nuts.

If beefing up week spots with 8/32 "T" nuts approximately add 10 or so too replace
the 6/32 "T" nuts.

Centaur playfield misc "T-nuts"
Other misc. "T" nut info:
Long Prong Teenuts:
M-108-09
M-108-15
M-108-21
--------------
M-1908-01 (6-32)
M-1908-02 (8-32)

Micro adjustment on how the clear plastic has the Boot-A-Ball trapped.
The ball should freely move with no tug.
------------------------------------------
Flippers:
1) back coil stop should have a very tiny "micro" slight bend foreword.
1a) plunger should be able to move freely forward/backward.
1b) the lever assembly "hub/button" should not be able to scrape/bind in the plunger cut.
1ba) the lever should be fasten to be horizontal as possible.
1bb) the plunger rotation against the lever hub should be minimal.
2) too strong of a return spring can diminish plunger thrust.
Note: new plungers have larger plunger hub gap cut.
------ these new plungers have more backlash slop.

mad_carl
check the photo morgue. page 9.
here you can see by the reset coil the approximate location for the aux. switch strobe.
One needs to give many thanks to gdonovan for taking the pictures in this area.
pasted_image (resized).png

I hope you can share pix of your new flipper assemblies.

Note: Drop target plastic formula was originally designed for EM style pinball games.
----- The plastic the manufacture used had a high brittle crystals in the formula.
----- It was recommended to keep drop targets in water and away from oxygen.
----- Back in the early 1980's a new formula was finally developed.
----- The new formula has more pliable glass crystals implemented...
----- The new drop targets can be bent backwards... also can easily be warped.
----- Old style Gottlieb targets are lighter in color shade and can snap in your hands
----- as compared to the new plastics developed, the new plastic color is much more darker
----- and opaque...
----- The new plastic formula was also implemented to pop bumper body's and skirts.
----- The new plastic formula is not a cure all... but it did make drop targets last longer
----- with games on route.
----- I have NOS drop targets that now, do not hold up and break. Oxidizing air does make
----- the plastics brittle.

I could use some more pix of the top under side of the playfield.
top rolleverlanes & magnet area.

Audio out is ground shielded for "say it again" board, along with silicon sealing at the connectors.
pasted_image (resized).png
Here you can see the two grey connectors for the input output.

Thanks.. Is it possible to take a few more pictures to the right of the top magnet?
[ top 1st picture ]
where the wiring harness is at?
[Dress the full free wiring harness off the picture?]
Many thanks.

Thank You!!! Pinoffski Got It.

Marco Specialties has flipper rubber rings.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/38-6519-4

AN-26-1200 = mounted vertically.
AO-26-1200 = mounted horizontally.
AO-**-**** coils are mounted for eject units and sling shots.
However Bally used the AO for drop targets and other uses...

Possibly a broken buss wire.

The first ball switch on the right is must likely the problem.
The game should read:
1) 1st ball switch.
2) 4th ball switch.
3) Top outhole switch.

Mudflaps check over this image:
pasted_image (resized).png
The ball manually closes the top flap.
That could be the problem.

Bally add a second rod with washers to the drop target assembly to act like a stop.
It was mounted to the larger open holes next to the drop target springs.
1) when drop targets reset... the extra rod pushed on the lower pivot heel of the drop targets.
2) it forced the targets to pivot forward rather than up.
3) this abrupt jam, to the plastic target pivots, suppressed the problem of hyper extensions,
-- and helped keep the drop target metal support from jumping the back switch plate.
4) over the years, the jam rod would snap in two. Thus removed, and only leaving the metal
--- oblong scares to know the part was once there.

Bally was not very good at documenting all of the amendments...
Part#0360-00720-00XF for 3 bank.
E-clip #0017-00100-0118
Washer #no part number listed.
---------------
From Bally Midway,Sente common parts assemblies 1987.

Note:
The 1-2-3-4 memory bank and O-R-B-S bank are the only
ones that have the extra rod assembly... you should be able to see
the remnants next to the spring holder rod on the side plates.

1) normal shooter spring Williams plain silver.
ref. 10-148-1 .035 dia wire.
2) adj. ball release alley wire forms and transition plate.

There is a term for when color and sound become perceived to do two separate things.
Some people will hear one thing and others hear something different.

A funny saying that Bally had, was from the Beat the Clock pinball game.
Back in the day, when I was working at an arcade place, the high level of
noise from all the video games and such would distort all voice call outs.
Beat the Clock voiced attract call out, would sound like "Eat the C*ck".
Atari Pole Position; deep,deep,BEEEP would cut through the air.
This would happen do to the sound frequencies of the Fletcher Munson curve.

Add also S&T can pickup radio stations too.

Everything in the picture is correct.

Rod: Spring L = x.y ( 2 REQ'D )
0360-00723-0_XF

Answer: yes. I added more GI lamps to a Fireball II and doubled stacked the circuitry.
1) need scr mcr106-1, lamp transistor-rectifier.
2) Aux Tri driver board
3) Max Tri
4) Extra wiring...