(Topic ID: 48888)

Centaur Club.....Members Only!


By vster23

6 years ago



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#618 2 years ago

As far as I can tell, back in the 1980's all Bally Centaurs
had standard balls. Take into consideration that you are using
laser cut plastic and not the original steel rule die cut plastic.
variations will a cure from recreating one set of plastic from the other.
When the games were in the arcades that I worked at the
ball in the queen's chamber never popped out.
Has far as stuck balls in inline drop target assemblies,
Electra was notorious for that problem.

#620 2 years ago
Quoted from dtown:

Honestly, who cares as long as it fits and the ball in play cracks it into the queen's target? This shot is hard enough as it is.

I agree. But don't claim your mods as OEM; there not.

#622 2 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

removal/insertion of either a standard or a bingo ball without taking off the plastic.

That is why there is no rubber post nut cut out into the
lower right plastic of the "Queens Chamber" plastic.
You just lift the corner to insert the ball.
The slot was used to help technicians adjust the bottom
plate in order to flush mount the drop targets. This process
became more difficult as the mold to the drop targets changed
from one lot manufacture to the other.
Bally put round cutouts to some of their key plastic pieces
in order to help repair technician/arcades service employees,
test target switches and rollover buttons without having to
breakdown the playfield. In all, to facilitate diagnostics for switch failures.
--

Quoted from jibmums:

While I picked up a PBR bingo ball to replace the Centaur captive

I was hoping somebody would do the Twighlite Zone thing
and put a white "power ball" in the captive ball feature and
see how it plays.
--
Finally, there is only one pinball that Bally had
instructions for what to do with the balls that came
with the game, how each ball is installed in the game, and
that was Goldball.

#628 2 years ago
Quoted from SilverballNut:

The other reason you need the slot above those targets is if you lift the playfiled, you see the ball bounce from one target to the next and drop them all. If you then mess underneath and pop the targets up while the ball is still at the back (apply power or do it manually), then when you lower the playfield the ball would be stuck at the top. Lucky for you there is a slot so you can easily knock the targets down and get the captive ball back to where it was...

I've done this several times on my centaur when diagnosing coils, switches etc.

Yes! and this was the weakest link to Bally's Electra.

#630 2 years ago

calico1997
Well, it depends on what you like?
Flash Gordon = tough game
Eightball deluxe = classic (got lifetime achievement award)
and was made three times!
With any solid state Bally pinball, you have to
remember there is a limitation on the programming.
The boards they used we not designed for deep programming
rules. Thus, what you think looks good does equate to how you
like it. Play around, at the shows, you might find a game that
ticks your fancy.

#634 2 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

Complete 16 pc set.

Minus the two obscure return lane plastics that nobody uses.
Another miss by Classic Playfield Reproduction.
(Bally had an option to remove the bounce back feature by
fiscally redesigning the return lanes.) Yes, it makes the
game harder.

#636 2 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Were these similar to the small plastic right next to the flippers, but longer and more of a "J" shape?

Yes!

#643 2 years ago
Quoted from wiredoug:

someone who knows for sure because they were there in 1981

I was, USA, but I was not in any foreign countries.
Thus, they do whatever they do.
The arcade I worked at had a tournament, and the top prize
for the game Centaur was a black leather jacket with
Centaur on the back. The custom jacket was pretty cool.

2 weeks later
#658 2 years ago
Quoted from Timmo:

I really don't have enough experience to say whether or not magnet issues are common in this machine. Given the general lack of discussion of the topic, I would think magnet issues are unusual. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.

I have yet to play a Centaur pinball with a bad magnet.
Reading stored ball switches, on the other hand, all the time.
As for the Addams Family pinball, the left magnet goes out,
all the time, this problem started after the game was out
and about for a proximity three to four years.

4 weeks later
#680 2 years ago

calico1997
The Bally Solenoid Expander relay had two functions.
1) Expand the allotted solenoids in a game.
2) As a Snubber relay to one coil.
Bally used it as a Snubber relay to the ball kickout assembly
on Centaur. Thus, the clipped jumper.
On all other Bally pinballs from the early 80's, it is used as
a Solenoid Expander.

5 months later
#708 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Centaur has 18 coils and they use 1-11/16

Bally Centaur uses the 1-1/16 coil sleeve OEM. Out side of
1) Knocker coil.
2) Drop Target reset coils.
3) Drop Target memory coils.

#710 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

what sleeves the drop target coils

The drop target reset coil sleeve is 5/8 O.D. x 2 inch.
Bally Midway # 0017-00041-0673.
Marco Specialties has them.

#716 2 years ago
Quoted from KJL:

I am in the middle of a playfield swap and my tumbler died so I am taking time to sort out what hardware is original on this game.

1- I notice that the main hex head screw are 3/8 and 1/2 but i have a mix of #6 and #8. which screw is used for the lamps and diodes 3/8 and what is used for the standup targets mechs etc 1/2? Are they all #6, or #8, or a mix?

2-the playfield hinges...on my game I have the 1/2 #8 hex head on one hinge and a #10 x 3/4 slotted head screw on the other (goes through the playfield stiffener so could be right. Which is the correct screw.?I assume the slotted head screw is wrong. but any confirmation would help.

3-The clear tubing insulator on the drop target switches is really yellowed. anyone have a source for this or at least an ID or OD for it? Looks bigger than pop bumper tubing for W/B.

Thanks,

You should have taken pictures and notes.....
1) stand up switches/brackets #6 x 1/2" long
2) lamps #6 x 3/8" long
3)playfield support hinge bracket #8 x 5/8" long (Philips pan head)
Note: For playfield support hinge bracket be careful, one can use two 3/4" long screw
------- with one 5/8" long screw for each bracket. The longer ones can go through the
------- playfield and into the side rails wile the other screw is used in the middle hole
------- and does not go through the playfield.
4) #10 x 1/2" long hwh sms can be used to beef-up flipper assemblies and sling shot
------ assemblies to the mounting of the playfield.
Note: The left sling shot assembly mounting screws have conflict with top spool mount
------ support post (brass hardware). One needs to grind down bottom mounting hardware
------ to help fit the two opposing sides. Be careful....

#722 2 years ago

Looks like a Back to the Future scene is being made. I hope you
can post a video of what the finished product sounds like. :0)

#729 2 years ago

Are you going to get real Bally legs or are you going to keep
the black William's ones?

#732 2 years ago

Does the speaker box clear the pitch of the playfield when up?

#734 2 years ago

That reminds me of a service call on a Bally Captain Fantastic I did many years ago.
The game came from a pub in England and it was completely carved up with high scores.
The owner thought it gave the game 'character'.

1 week later
#753 2 years ago
Quoted from Joydivision:

I also can't understand why it was not all used when it was there to use.

The CPU was designed years before the S&T was. By program standards at the factory
A block of memory is spared for fixing software bugs. "Good software practices".
I asked that question about the S*T many years ago at Bally and they said at the time
that there is just not enough room in the ROMs.

#763 2 years ago
Quoted from Joydivision:

I will check my solenoid expander board. I read someone else post that their Centaur 2 didn't have a bulb wired to the expander and didn't have two diodes for the launch solenoid as it says on Pinrepair should be there yet it was working. Does yours have the bulb and two diodes one across the solenoid and one on the power in? It would help to know if mine is wired right or not when I check it tomorrow.

Note: on Centaur, the solenoid expander relay board is used as a solenoid snubber assembly.
--- it is only used as a snubber on Centaur and Centaur2 only. No other Bally game is it used
--- this way.
--- No lamp SCR is used to drive the snubber; hence no extra lamp socket is present.
--- Q11 a SE9302 is used to drive the snubber assembly.
--- Q11 is located on the Voltage Regulator/ Solenoid Driver board.
--- The launch solenoid AO-25-950 has only one diode. It is not part of a matrix.

#767 2 years ago

AJNada
Congratulations!

#770 2 years ago
Quoted from SilverballNut:

Ok. I need some help. I need to know what the round thing with the wires going to is on the bottom of Centaur. I'd also kind of like to know what it does and most importantly where to get one.

Oh LORD, that is your G.I. Triac. The Triac allows A.C. current to go in either direction.
The board that drives it is located on the playfield by the center drop targets.

#773 2 years ago

Yes, just a little. Remember you have a proximately twenty volts ac going through
-- the device.

3 weeks later
#783 2 years ago

Any game lasting longer than 3.5 minutes, and you are losing money.
Factory suggested setting at the time was 3 balls @ 50¢ per game.
Or an extra game if you put in a whole dollar.

2 weeks later
#789 2 years ago
Quoted from galaga50:

but what is used at the top and the one under the plastic.

The top mini post is a through hole post that has a nut and external tooth lock washer attached to it (under the playfield).

#791 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

ball trough switch issues?

The 4th trough switch could be sticky, it could not be opening up at the same time the ball closes the outhole switch.

1 week later
#798 2 years ago
Quoted from galaga50:

And here's the million dollar question - does centaur II use the 1 3/16" star posts?

Note: Bally is part of Midway at the time Centaur II is made. The ribbed posts that Bally used are now out of fashion.
-- Star posts are in! From Marco Specialties 03-8269-9 Post #6 1 3/16"
-- ref. Data East part No. 550-5033-02.
-- All Centaur IIs are made with #6 1 3/16" red star posts.

#799 2 years ago
Quoted from rjsoeps:

I bought an ct2 with a very damaged backglass.. impossible to restore.
so only option is to find a nice one..

Note: bgresto.com has copies of Centaur II backglass.
-- They can reproduce a backglass for you.

#801 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Is the middle coin door microswitch wired the same as the right side coin door or the same as the far left ball trough switch please?

Coin door wiring....
From left to right.
Hinge side first... start button side last.
--------------------------------------------
Coin NO.1___Coin NO.2_____Coin NO.3__ All ST1 [14] Red-Green wire.
[65] _______ [20]________[15]_____.
Brown-White____Blue________Red-White___.
TEST MODE......
#10 _______#11_________#9.

#803 2 years ago

Does that mean that the diode is in the same position (switch tabs) on all the coin door switches?
Yes.
_____Coin Micro Switch_______________
_________________________________
--------( )----[actuator]
---tab-------center tab---------- end tab.
Cathode------Anode______________________[Diode location]
___________ common _______return strobe.__[ Switch Strobe wiring]
____________ST1 [14]____________________[ Red-Green wire]

2 weeks later
#809 2 years ago
Quoted from RoyGBev:

"five side awards double"

"Try side awards double": reference for queens chamber.

#811 2 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I don't think it's "five" or "try". Doesn't sound exactly like either and neither makes complete sense.

If you shoot the ball through the side two rollover buttons and hit the "boot-a-ball" and the ball
hits/drops a drop target, the award point value is double.

3 weeks later
#816 1 year ago
Quoted from Rat:

I put another new 2" rubber on it and left it for awhile and took it off without playing any games and you can see in the attached pic the big dent creating a weak spot.

Not a good quality rubber ring.
Centaur chart should be.....
1.) R-206-11 mini (3)
2.) R-243 5/16" (18)
3.) R-521 3/4" (3)
4.) R-521-1 1" (1)
5.) R-521-2 1 1/2" (1)
6.) R-521-3 2" (4)
7.) R-521-4 2 1/2" (3)
8.) R-533-1 flipper (2)

#819 1 year ago

Rat. I got to see this game when it was new on the showroom floor.
Note: Bally drop targets are doubled. Scrutinize the game's flyer very carefully.
Note: The games made in this era used ABC rubber rings, which have a smaller diameter.
That, the new rubber ring manufacturers have forgotten. As far as your slingshot kickers go...
I would relax the rubber rings before it is put on the posts. The kickers are a 2" size ring.
P.S. I have had a couple of bad 2" and 2 1/2" and even 1" rubber rings in the past.

#821 1 year ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

What are you referring to?

The rubber rings.

#824 1 year ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

I don't remember any Bally drops double ringed.

That is because you probably do not have a Bally 1975 parts catalog.
Also, you probably did not go to the distributor shows back in 1980's when
Bally was still a business and could see a firsthand OEM product.

1 month later
#830 1 year ago
Quoted from rjsoeps:

I am looking for a nice condition bg for my
ct2..

Backglass resto has them. bgresto.com

#832 1 year ago
Quoted from rjsoeps:

I know, but they fail to show me what i
am buying..
i find that strange..

O.K. you get an image of the backglass art that is mounted on glass.
Then, you can add the trimming to it and install it into your game.
The product is like a silkscreen backglass, but it is not. It is, however, the next best thing.

1 year later
#954 7 months ago
Quoted from Fortytwo:

any suggestions that others had success with?

I used polycarbonate plastic... for the return lanes... put the OEMs on top... never had them break?
It was done many years ago.
Stern's Fight 2000 wanted one to drill two holes and add a metal guide rail just under the plastic.

1 month later
#984 5 months ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Hi guys, I'm looking for four *white* Chamber drop targets to get the playfield of my Centaur II up to factory specs. Anybody know where I can find these?
As some of you might know, Centaur II had the colours of the drop targets exchanged: White in the Chamber and black for the ORBS and 1234. I already snagged a black set of both the ORBS and 1234.

Centaur #1 had black chamber and white O,R,B,S as well as white 1,2,3,4.
Centaur #2 had white chamber and black O,R,B,S as well as white 1,2,3,4.
However, sometime in late supplying of parts, Bally made black 1,2,3,4 targets that somehow
became the defaulting for Centaur #2.
Black 1,2,3,4, targets did not show up till about 1984 after the run of Centaur #2.
As far as targets go... try Pinball Resource.

#986 5 months ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Cheers for that info! I guess the white 1234's stay in then
May I ask where you gained this wisdom? I found it very hard to find anything on this subject.


This kind of sums it up... for all the game operator that went to the game shows
back in the day... You got to see the newest releases from the top 4ish pinball manufactures.
Bally, Williams, Gottlieb, Stern... Game Plan... Zaccaria... "Pinball kits" from Europe...
1983 was a cutback year.
Bally would produce games that only had little development that would not cost much.
At that time there was still a demand for Eight Ball Deluxe Deluxe and Centaur... and
Bally had over produced cabinets to Rapid Fire So...the rest is history.

2 months later
#1009 3 months ago
Quoted from RoyGBev:

My Centaur will sometimes continue to try launching a ball after it's already been launched. Example: You complete all four guardian lanes, and a ball is launched. A couple of seconds after it's launched the game attempts to launch the ball 3 or 4 more times. (You can hear the coil firing, and the sound effect, and see the playfield GI blink.)
I think this happens because the game doesn't see the end of trough switch (switch 33) close when the ball zooms past it on the first launch. Apparently it's programmed to give up after 3 or 4 more launch attempts.
I have adjusted the switch and even replaced it, but it still happens about one in every 10 launches.
This error doesn't add points, but it's annoying, and since it makes the pf GI blink it also blinds the player if the room is dark (which is how Centaur should be played.)
QUESTION: Is this a common error? Does anyone have a Centaur on which this error NEVER happens? If so, I know I should be able to fix it.
Possible cause: The wire actuator on my end of trough switch was replaced at some point, and I think the replacement wire is shorter. This might prevent me from being able to adjust it or bend it into the optimal shape.
And before anyone asks, yes, I've replaced the switch capacitor. Thanks for any feedback you can provide.

Try the first ball trough switch? I modified the first ball trough switch to a long flat blade style...
It stopped all ball trough read problems; as far as I know.

#1011 3 months ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

Possible part number that you have replaced with?

Try an outhole style switch that has a light weight actuator...
Or a Williams micro drop target style switch...
You have to modify to fit and you have to drill new mounting holes in the bracket?
I believe... it has been many years sense I have done it to a Bally Centaur.

#1013 3 months ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

Is there a current part available for the queens chamber drop target assembly drop target stop from the housing. The part I am looking for is the square metal piece with a screw coming through it, attached to the spring in the picture. This piece stops the target from over extending on the playfield. Thanks in advance![quoted image]

You are going to have to find the part or have the part reproduced.

#1016 3 months ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

I would need a part number to find it anywhere. And it’s not listed in the manual. Does anyone happen to have a part number?

Bally Nut & Spring Bracket
( Left Hand )
P-7939-1
Good luck.

3 months later
#1038 5 days ago
Quoted from Fortytwo:

What size spike post rubber do you use for the three spikes?

1) the regular large size. Gottlieb ref. A-15705 27/64" o.d.
2) The top right rollover ring is off. The large ring should around four post, not three.
3) Take your 6th 2" ring and fit it around the right drop targets. Or/2-1/2" rubber ring.
Note: Bally doubles their playfield drop target rubber rings...
(check the games back and middle flyer pictures for clarifications).

#1040 5 days ago
Quoted from Fortytwo:

So to be clear the right top lane guide should be one sided then.

Yup. The top left plastic guide rails are doubled (Bally part #C-693-11).
The far right plastic guide rail is single ( Bally part # C-694-11).
Note: Bally part # can be off.

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