Woodridge, IL
Quoted from eh97ac:Anyone know where to get the rubber stops for the pf hangers?
Marco has the rubber post caps that Centaur uses. I think they are available in black too.
(Topic ID: 48888)
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Centaur
Bally, 1981-
Centaur II
Bally, 1983
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8 months later
When that top-right target is hit it makes the same sound as when one of the 1-4 drop targets drops. Which sorta makes sense, seeing as hitting it spots one of those targets.
But I also noticed that my machine didn't always make the sound if it got stepped on by any other sound or speech.
The 1-1/16" Black Pearl from Marco looks nice in the Queen's Chamber.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-BKP
1 week later
I just posted an explanation of how I retrofit a Williams 20-9247 magnet in my Centaur.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/centaur-20-9247-magnet-retrofit#post-3563730
That's what must have happened to mine. The magnet was already MIA when I bought the machine, Q18 was shot, and I have some discoloration of the playfield right above the magnet.
The newer magnets have built-in thermistors now, so I would guess this was probably an issue with some of the earlier ones.
Quoted from calico1997:Do you think it would be wise for Centaur owners to install a fuse in series with the Magnet power wires?
I really don't have enough experience to say whether or not magnet issues are common in this machine. Given the general lack of discussion of the topic, I would think magnet issues are unusual. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.
6 months later
Quoted from Rat:Also the top star roll over, I have tweaked and cleaned the switch and its working but I can't get it dialled so that it works for a fast strong shot. Fast shots will go straight over without triggering the switch
The switch is probably opening back up too quickly for the processor to notice. There should be a .047uF capacitor on that rollover switch to help hold the signal. I understand these sometimes fall off or are removed by operators to make the game harder.
2 weeks later
I think the problem might be caused by a poor connection at J1 on the S&T. I have had my Centaur for a long time and never heard that sound until recently - and now I was starting to get it quite a lot. I pulled the S&T to look for cold solder joints, but they all looked good. So I decided to reseat all the wires in the connector just by giving them all a firm push with a punch tool. That did the trick for me. I know they say those IDC connections can fail over time.
6 months later
Quoted from Rat:I checked the schematic and on J3 on the MPU board I have a wire missing at position 12.
Your missing wire goes down to pin 4 of the coin door connector on my machine, but ends there. It shows up in the cabinet schematic, but looks to be unused.
2 years later
Quoted from GKW:Thank you very much for the information. Would you take a picture of the solenoid wiring on the 1-2-3-4 assembly? Mine is not wired and I have no idea which wire goes to which solenoid.
Seek and ye shall find. Centaur schematics are available on the ipdb website. I believe this answers your question.
22F2CAC1-80B9-40B2-9890-70FA52337B78 (resized).pngF058C4E2-D357-4F97-ADE6-63D2FB258F60 (resized).png 5 months later
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:So I’m trying to get my magnet sorted out.
If you end up having to replace your magnet you will quickly find out that a direct replacement is no longer available. I did a write up a couple of years ago on what I needed to do to use the commonly available Williams magnet instead.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/centaur-20-9247-magnet-retrofit
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