(Topic ID: 48888)

Centaur Club.....Members Only!

By vster23

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 1,383 posts
  • 230 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by VindictiveX
  • Topic is favorited by 95 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

20210922_103822 (resized).jpg
20210922_104535 (resized).jpg
20210922_104859 (resized).jpg
Cabinet_CMR (resized).JPG
DE4D1201-FAC8-413A-9485-D1AD121A6F3F (resized).jpeg
B545593B-36EC-4DB2-AC34-C277D91D48F8 (resized).jpeg
BFD319FC-12C0-4677-B6A3-416E3223AC68 (resized).jpeg
Flytta playfield - 00b (resized).JPG
20210611_124032 (resized).jpg
20210611_120103 (resized).jpg
20210611_103402 (resized).jpg
4D3F9271-351C-43A9-8877-2C4BD82B8603 (resized).jpeg
0938CE23-5B49-47F2-A86A-30535BC9CB89 (resized).jpeg
581A0D0C-1760-4D39-9136-FA55F3BBE057 (resized).jpeg
D7D4E102-4FD4-49BD-9A38-899DE6DFDCDE (resized).jpeg
E8834894-A64E-4EAB-8850-501B4BD4B8D4 (resized).jpeg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider quench.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#785 4 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Does anyone how many balls per game (3 or 5) Centaur was set for in the dips from the factory? My friend says it should be a 5 ball game and I have mine set as 3.

In your country, Pinball was 5 balls per game in the era when Centaur came out.

9 months later
#905 3 years ago
Quoted from Largemann:

They are the ST branded ones from ebay.

I've had similar issues (different programmer) with ST 2716 and 2732 EPROMs from China and found that repeat programming the chips multiple times (5 or so) without erasing between programming and switching blank check off gets them to work.
Problem is the Chinese are remarking these chips - they may have been a different brand of EPROM requiring different programming algorithm, not the ST one.
Plenty of the Chinese sourced 2716 & 2732 EPROMs I've bought have worked fine though.

9 months later
#973 2 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Let's talk flipper alignment. How do y'all have your flippers aligned?

Bally playfields have a little divot near the tip of each flipper. You align the centre (pointiest) part of the flipper tip to the divot.

See the example on a Medusa below:
You have your flippers set up past the divots such that flipping to the left drop targets is weaker.

IMG_0013a (resized).jpg

1 year later
#1124 1 year ago

Hi Jappie, the wire color codes are in the schematics on the "Wiring Diagram Backbox" page.

I hope the below helps explains how the wire color codes are listed: specifically the gray wire goes to pin 15.

Centaur_MPU_Wiring.jpg

2 months later
#1151 1 year ago
Quoted from rvdv:

Any one know what this is for or how to make it
Work for 110 volts instead of 220 v ?

It looks like a stepdown transformer and a rather small one for this application.

Does the game have the original Bally transformer on the large metal power module? If yes you can bypass that stepdown transformer - just make sure the original Bally transformer is wired for 115V - see the below picture of the voltage selector jumper block located next to the main transformer.

NOTE, you will need to change the red varistor shown in your second picture with one of these:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=V130LA20AP

And change the inline EMI filter for one capable of higher current:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=ZHG2206-H

PS-54_Config.jpg

#1154 1 year ago
Quoted from rvdv:

Also in the Backbox there is a weird Red switch
Any ideas ?

Sorry, without knowing where the wires on that red switch are hooked up to it's impossible to know. If you can trace where they go then I can comment.

Whoever wired the transformer in this game didn't know what they were doing. You'll have to make up two jumper wires with crimps since the game only has one at the moment and you need three.

BTW, it's the block connector sitting on the bracket with the mains fuse next to the transformer.

Transformer_Centaur1.jpg

3 months later
#1230 8 months ago
Quoted from DylanFan71:

Just joined the club with a restored re-import that arrived yesterday. The game wasn't changed to 120v. Does anyone have a pic and an idiots guide to changing it back to good ole American electricity?

See here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/centaur-clubmembers-only/page/24#post-5895568
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/centaur-clubmembers-only/page/24#post-5897382

3 months later
#1304 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

No matter what I do I can’t get the magnet to work.

At the magnet, the yellow wire should have 43V. The black-red wire connects to the solenoid driver board at J5 pin 3 which switches ground to the magnet.
So if you manually ground the black-red wire at the magnet, this applies in-game power to it. Does it work?

#1306 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I'll try manually grounding the circuit but I'm leaning towards a dead coil at this point.

The 51 ohms you measure across the coil is a good sign - that's the reading I got on one I measured about two years ago. So I wouldn't be suspecting it just yet. Problem is I'm not aware of anyone selling them off the shelf - I looked a while back because my Centaur is missing the factory magnet . Someone fitted a later WMS magnet in mine which is too strong and regularly blew a 3amp slow blow fuse I put on it.

If I remember right:
The magnet has a PTC thermistor in it or something similar - no idea what its value might be.
The gauge on an original Centaur magnet wire I measured was roughly somewhere around 30 or 31AWG - don't quote me on this. There are online calculators to estimate the number of turns. I have to find it again.

If grounding the black-red wire on the magnet works, then go upstream:
* Ground the metal tab of the Q18 driver transistor on the solenoid driver board to manually activate the magnet.
* Further upstream, ground pin 11 of U4 on the solenoid driver board to manually activate the magnet.

If you have no luck when you visit it, post some clear pictures of the magnet showing the screw puncture.

#1309 4 months ago
Quoted from Joydivision:

May be 27 gauge for rewinding according to someone that had a go (2 goes) at rewinding a Centaur magnet.

Cheers, they sound pretty confident it's 27 gauge wire. 51 ohms calculates to about 1000 feet of wire.
https://www.cirris.com/learning-center/calculators/133-wire-resistance-calculator-table

1 week later
#1335 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

My Centaur magnet has been sorted out.

Great!
Do you by chance have a micro gauge to measure/confirm the original coil wire gauge?

#1342 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I don't but would be happy to send you a sample if you do.

You're too kind however I don't live near the US so it wouldn't be feasible. Appreciate the offer though.

1 week later
#1348 3 months ago

CPRs done a small batch of oldskool silkscreened Centaur playfields:
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/centaur-2/

1 month later
#1367 57 days ago
Quoted from Kevster219:

For some reason the magnet capture does not work with the AllTek, but works fine with the stock board.

There is no feature to disable the magnet.
The magnet is controlled by the signal leaving the MPU board at J4 pin 8 (green-black wire) and goes to the solenoid driver board on J4 pin 10.
Have you re-terminated the J4 MPU connector yet?
This signal should go logic low when the magnet is to be activated.

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider quench.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside