Centaur
Bally, 1981
Centaur II
Bally, 1983You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mjalexan.
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Quoted from djblouw:I picked up my Centaur as a project last year. Here's my starting point:
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I did a complete overhaul on the game. Repaint of the cab, new (rescreen) pf, re-zinc all the metal pieces, and blacked out all the trim. I'm very pleased with the results:
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I still have a couple of items to clean up (like new instruction cards), but overall very little in the way of issues at start up.
Very nice! Where did you find the clear/black rollovers?
Quoted from SomeCaliGuy:Are there 18 or 19 - 5/16 rubbers?
The leftmost lane guide is supposed to be a full lane guide, not half. With that in mind, it should use two small rings instead of 1 large.
The rightmost lane guide is supposed to be a half lane guid. This is where i used the 6th 2" ring to go around 4 of the 5 posts up there. In that scenario, you don't need the 1.5" ring
This setup required 18x 5/16 ID rings.
If you use the 1.5" ring to capture only 3 of the 5 posts as you've done, then you'll need 19x 5/16" ID rings.
There are manuals on ipdb: https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=centaur&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick#476 for Centaur I & II which can be helpful but aren't very detailed.
Quoted from lordloss:Pics for reference of part I need
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I’ve got two five drop banks from a night fever playfield. Appears to be a very similar design. This one has the coil on the opposite side but the parts can be swapped around.
image (resized).jpgThe signs are that it is the original or at least a very old battery, get it outta there! Go for an nvram or at least a remote battery.
That rectifier board looks like it’s been worked on so I’d redo that too.
How many flashes on the mpu led when you turn the game on?
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Bottom right board (mpu, I think) flashes as follow:
1
123
1
Then turns off
Seems like there's delays between some blinks.
Top left board, green led stays green no blink or flash.
Williams machines goes into 04 mode when there's a battery problem. I don't know what Bally's do.
Bottom right is the sound board. top left is MPU. check out the pinwiki sight and follow the flash protocol: https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#LED_locked_on
Quoted from GKW:I am in the midst of putting a project Centaur back together and I have a question about the drop target banks. None of them have springs on the targets, except for the in-line drops. Are these supposed to have springs?
They should all have springs
6F4A32FE-5145-4255-849E-80BC587AD166.jpegQuoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Is this lock bar release lever missing a spring? If so, can somebody show me a photo of what it should look like? It is a Centaur 2 cabinet. Thanks in advance.
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Nope, you’re good. No spring on that design.
I think that ground wire going to the lock ramp should be attached to the shooter rod plate.
Quoted from Heretic_9:Trying to i.d. what boards are present -- stock, or not. Numbers did not seem to correspond with what I expected to find. The pix I took were not sharply focused enough, may have to do them over again. The one with the large heat sinks must be the power supply board. Is the board at upper left the MPU board ? The one at lower left was Bally P2948-301. [EDIT: a quick search shows that to be a replacement issue Lamp Driver board.] (I seem to be more familiar with EMs than with the innards of SS . . . . )
https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=Centaur&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick#476
Quoted from MtnFrost:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/centaur-20-9247-magnet-retrofit
I'm using this approach.
Ooh thanks for that link! I imagine this retro magnet is a fair bit stronger than original?
PBL has one a little cheaper. I’ve had this board for a couple years, no issues.
https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-say-it-again-replacement-board.html
Quoted from GKW:I am still in need of the curved part of the upper playfield trough. This is the part where the ball kicker passes through. Does anyone have one that they would like to sell? Thank you!
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I just got all my Centaur and other parts back from the plater. I could probably 3D print a replacement part if you don't find an original. Plenty of room behind to make a suitable plastic part.
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West Lafayette, IN
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