Greetings - I am building my own Centaur cabinet to transfer my Centaur II parts into and fully restore. I have a Xenon and Star Trek that I have modeled the cabinet minus game specific details. Only part of the cabinet that I cannot find any good pictures of is the white display/light board behind the backglass.

Could somebody please post decent resolution pic of this white panel behind the back glass taken as straight on/perpendicular as possible? I can get the light and display positions from the pic in my cad system by overlaying it over the actual panel perimeter size from Xenon and/or Star Trek.

Thanks!

Thanks a million man. This is where I'm at now. Seriously appreciate the pic. Very helpful

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Slingshot lights on Centaur are SCR controlled on the AUX board Q2 and Q5. Pop lights are also SCR controlled on the AUX. I'd imagine you checked F1 on the rectifier board.. I'd start tracing the GI circuit with a meter.

Correct. Rectifier board is the guy in the bottom of the cabinet. I'd check the test point TP1 after actually pulling F1 out of the board and verifying continuity. Its a 20amp if memory serves. From there, I'd start following the pins on J2 connector. Don't recall the wire numbers. The schematics are on ipdb and check the page with the A2 power/rectifier board for the pins on J2 going out.

Well. Here's my progress since post 1359. After the cabinet design, I programmed and cut the panels out of B2 13 ply cabinet grade birch plywood on a CNC router then built it up and painted it from there. ( I never liked the Rapid Fire cabinets so I built my own and put my Centaur II parts in it). The side cutouts with Centaur are going to be raised translucent red acrylic with polished 304SS letters on top. It's about 85% finished. I wanted to play it so I paused the build and will finish it in the fall.

Cheers.

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That sounds like a power fluctuation/instability issue. All my machines have AS-2518-54 rectifier boards and the first thing I do when I get a new-to-me machine is rebuild the board regardless. Flaky power or intermittent connections always cause that kind of anomalous behavior. I'd suggest you freshen up the AS-2518-54 rectifier board. I'd replace the bridges or replace the whole board. I'm wondering if your bridges are on the edge of failing. Rebooting the machine without touching anything inside leads me to think the bridges are unstable or there is a wiring/connector issue which is common with a 41 year old board. All said, I am not super experienced with this type of behavior but really sounds like a power instability issue. Maybe another pin veteran could chime in here.

Kooky. Why anyone would put a section of coat hanger in there is quite mysterious. The rod for the target springs looks correct but what the actual f&$k is that thing doing in there. Doh. I'd get it outta there.

Thanks man. Was a quite a lot work. The lettering on the sides are cutouts for light to ghost light the red acrylic backgrounds of each letter. About the 3rd or 4th pic shows the polished stainless over translucent acrylic. When it's finished, it will be very dim red glow centaur. When I reverse engineered the cabinet I siezed the opportunity to correct the head depth (about 3/4" deeper) since most heads are too shallow/short and the art didn't register correctly from the factory. Also since the heads on these mostly weren't hinged, I designed in a better head platform to make it more solid. I plan to nudge this machine pretty hard and dont want the head getting wonky over time.

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Sure I'll post more when it's done. I revised the Centaur I. I reversed a Star Trek and referenced some of a Xenon bottom cabinet for the cabinet.

I'll check out your mod. I've gotten over 5 million on it but only after removing the tilt bob. Heh. I'm hard on it but not abusive. Built the cabinet to handle it.

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I'll send you the head model in STEP format if you like. PM me

What Carl said and you can also try a new shooter bushing. I had to adjust my shooter>>cabinet to keep the rod from striking off center causing the ball to spin and jump causing all kinds of weird shit. If you loosen the 2 nuts holding the shooter in the cabinet, you can move the shooter about +/-.125" in every direction. some cabinets might be more or less. Get it centered when it strikes and try what Carl said and you will see a difference.

Just searched 37 voice entries from the S&T ROM (that I have) and can't find anything like you mention. Nothing enunciates similar to slew on that I can tell.

Cool. I always thought it was saying "Subtle, aren't you." Slow makes more sense.

I've been looking for over 2 years for spares. Usually find one or two at PF swap meets. I have used 3D printers for 20 years in aircraft business for protos and the FDM printers probably won't have the strength or integrity to hold up to the abuse of a pop bumper and the clip ears will break immediately. SLA materials are getting better all the time and might be a better option. I have a carbon fiber printer at work that would probably hold up structurally however it's quite expensive to print on it and is only black (naturally...) That said, if you want to try it, I'll model one and send you an STL to test it on your printer. If there was a lot of interest for these, I could source making a soft injection die and shoot it with a 15-30% glass fill and would part last forever. Die charge would be around $3500 and be capable to inject around 250 max

Ok. I'll model it up. Give me a bit. I'm pretty busy with work/traveling etc.