(Topic ID: 48888)

Centaur Club.....Members Only!

By vster23

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 1,042 posts
  • 189 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by Startek2
  • Topic is favorited by 66 Pinsiders


Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 394 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

77AF46E7-87D5-4DEB-A575-2F0B2086C198 (resized).jpeg
Centaur - Title (resized).jpg
Centaur - Instruction (resized).jpg
89730C87-9029-4311-9213-ED213326F03A (resized).jpeg
F7C89A26-C81B-402C-ABDC-B01388425902 (resized).jpeg
mo-taur (resized).jpg
941B635A-BDCF-4D0A-A681-365426A95E18 (resized).jpeg
725935CA-65AF-40B6-B4B2-9EC8455A3A97 (resized).jpeg
boards (resized).jpg
backglass (resized).jpg
mp06 (resized).jpg
mp05 (resized).jpg
mp04 (resized).jpg
mp02 (resized).jpg
mp01 (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider kjl.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#688 2 years ago

Anyone replaced the back and bottom of these Bally cabinets?

Picked up a Centaur in the last year and while I have it apart to swap the playfield I noticed the back particle board on the cab is separating from the sides. Since it is busted at the bottom I think I will replace it and the beer stained bottom while I have the back off.

Any advice or tricks to do that? I have replaced the back and bottom on a System 6 so was wondering if Bally is any different besides the crappy particle board.

Ever notice how these simple playfield swaps snowball to bigger restores. I still hope not to stencil if I do the back right.

3 months later
#713 2 years ago


I am in the middle of a playfield swap and my tumbler died so I am taking time to sort out what hardware is original on this game.

1- I notice that the main hex head screw are 3/8 and 1/2 but i have a mix of #6 and #8. which screw is used for the lamps and diodes 3/8 and what is used for the standup targets mechs etc 1/2? Are they all #6, or #8, or a mix?

2-the playfield hinges...on my game I have the 1/2 #8 hex head on one hinge and a #10 x 3/4 slotted head screw on the other (goes through the playfield stiffener so could be right. Which is the correct screw.?I assume the slotted head screw is wrong. but any confirmation would help.

3-The clear tubing insulator on the drop target switches is really yellowed. anyone have a source for this or at least an ID or OD for it? Looks bigger than pop bumper tubing for W/B.



#717 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Note: The left sling shot assembly mounting screws have conflict with top spool mount
------ support post (brass hardware). One needs to grind down bottom mounting hardware
------ to help fit the two opposing sides. Be careful....

Thanks vec-tor for the answers especially the note about the sling and the hinge bracket.

Interesting to see all the non-original fasteners in this game after 30 years even with pictures and notes. Easily as many screws were #8 as #6

My first Bally swap and I didn't find this info, so now it is documented for the next person.

1 week later
#726 2 years ago
Quoted from SilverballNut:

Paints done. I'll get higher res photos when it's all done.

silverballnut Can you post the paint codes you used? Or if already posted can you send a link


1 week later
#754 2 years ago
Quoted from Joydivision:

The home roms on Fathom are great too adding some extra speech phrases that were not originally used. I also can't understand why it was not all used when it was there to use.

Didn't Oliver use some of the previous unused sounds in his Centaur home ROM /27 ? I think he used the space from somewhere else to make the changes. Great ROM, I just don't remember what the sounds were before.

1 week later
#775 2 years ago
Quoted from SilverballNut:

Some more pics. We are getting closer. Still waiting on some chrome but Keith will be starting to fire it up today.
As an FYI. The speaker box did have to get notched to clear a drop assembly but it was close.

Is the Apron original or did you need to do something to make it look nice? Mine has a faded area like something dripped on it and wondering how overlays look on this game.

3 weeks later
#781 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Does anyone how many balls per game (3 or 5) Centaur was set for in the dips from the factory? My friend says it should be a 5 ball game and I have mine set as 3

I don't know that true answer but I played this game in the arcades in the early 80s and all SS games were 3 ball and all EMs were 5 ball at the several locations I played. I doubt I have played any early SS that was 5 ball recently.

4 months later
#835 1 year ago
Quoted from Jkush18:

Having issues wiring up the magnet on a centaur II, can anyone send me a pic with the wiring. I know its an awkward shot but I'd appreciate it. thank you.

Here is a shot from Centaur (not Centaur II) which I am swapping right now.

On "this" Centaur there are 2 solder lugs screwed to the playfield near the main harness with a 1N4148 diode between them.

In the red circle, one solder lug has a double yellow power wire, the banded side of the diode, and a black wire from the magnet. The other solder lug has a grey with red stripe wire, the non-banded side of the diode and the other black wire from the magnet. I assume it is a diode BTW.

magnet (resized).jpg

magnet2 (resized).jpg

#837 1 year ago
Quoted from Jkush18:

thank you for this. I assume it doesn't matter which black wire to either side of the lug?

It should not matter AS LONG AS you make sure the diode banded side is attached to the the black wire that has the "power" wire going to it.

Check out the other 2 lug coils in the game (kickers etc) and you should see the banded side of the diode attached to the lug with the power wire. As an aside, note that on almost every coil in (Bally and Williams) SS games these are 1N4004 diodes where the diode on my magnet is for some reason a 1N4148 which is normally used on switches. So not sure if they just used the same solder lugs as for the switches like the trough and the launch tunnel.

2 weeks later
#844 1 year ago

I am in search of 2 original white 555 GI sockets with the staple down brackets like the one circled in red (bottom) in the attached picture. Swapping playfield so a good time to sort this out.

All my other sockets work great but I have 2 missing like the one in the picture also. Reading how so many people have replaced with 44 sockets, I am hoping there are some of the white ones lying around.

The screw in kind for the GI will work also, just trying to keep the white since they can be seen. Will buy more if that makes it worth your while.

Thanks for any help or leads,

GI (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#849 1 year ago
Quoted from ctl723:

I have a box of them that i harvested from an old playfield for this exact reason. I know everyone hates on them, but I've never had issues and I like things to match. Shoot my your address in a message and I'll mail you two.

@ltcmdrobvious sent me what I needed no charge. People like this make the hobby great. I will be sure to pay it forward.

3 weeks later
#867 1 year ago

If anyone has a couple pictures of the trough wiring including the solder tabs and diode placement, I would appreciate it. Mine has a battlefield repair that includes wire nuts and diodes soldered to the switches directly. Last thing I need to sort out on my playfield swap. Here is the before picture.

IMGP0636 (resized).JPG

#870 1 year ago

Thanks Redketchup !

These are excellent pictures and I appreciate the quick response. Now understand what they were doing and have something to do tonight.

3 months later
#903 1 year ago
Quoted from tomdrum:

I don't see them on his website.

Email Cliffy,

He did not have them on his site but sent me a set and they look great!

2 months later
#911 1 year ago

Finally repaired the backbox lock mechanism and want to put a key hook on the coin door. Did Centaur come with a backbox key hook on the coin door? If so where did it go ?


#913 1 year ago
Quoted from shock_me:

There should be a little hook for the back box key inside the cabinet right next to the front left leg bolt plate. It should be screwed into the plate itself.

Thanks shock_me that answers another question I had that came from the playfield swap! Good to go now. Really interesting how all these different companies did things back then. I assume that came out of their EM history.

Thanks again.

Key Hook (resized).JPG
#915 1 year ago
Quoted from shock_me:

Here's what all mine look like.

Good to know, from your picture mine is broken. Another thing to sort out. Thanks again.

10 months later
#1024 87 days ago
Quoted from Startek2:

ey gang does anyone have the files for the home version eeproms that they could send me? I

PM me your email address and I'll send you what I have. Haven't burned them in a few years so not sure which files you need.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 20.00
Yorktown Parts and Equip
From: $ 19.95
Machine - Wanted
Knoxville, TN
$ 10.00
Playfield - Decals

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider kjl.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside