Not sure if this has been mentioned before, but here is a link to demonstrate how to repair or completely replace a non-working or missing Centaur playfield magnet as this particular magnet itself is unique to a Centaur.

http://blog.danjoannis.com/?p=1165

Yep, it's crude, but did the job!

Great, I will try that, mine also bounces back then out under the wire to drain about 50% of the time on both sides, very annoying when you have succeded to bounce it into the inlane, assumed that's just the way it is.

Just checked mine & the wire was falling on the post ok, but noticed the ball was not clearing the gate as it went through, when the ball made contact with the slingshot rubber the wire was still just sitting on top of the ball, the ball would then bounce back out off the slingshot rubber.

I moved the wire from the end hole position to the centre & now the ball clears the gate ok & is working perfectly. Can't believe I didn't notice/check this before.

I'm assuming the centre hole position is the correct default position? & the wire may have been put in the first hole at some point when apart.

image.jpg
image_1.jpg
image_2.jpg
image_3.jpg

I think I have a NOS decal to compare.

Here are a couple of decals I have, the top one is probably a NOS from about 20 or so years ago, I don't remember where the bottom one is from, different again to Marco's & the ebay decals, but still incorrect. The top one looks correct. May look a bit out of proportion due to the angle I needed to take the shot & not have a reflection.

image (resized).jpg

Mine has the larger size bingo ball also. I'm pretty certain it would be the original ball in the queen's chamber, the game I have was Australian delivered, I can't imagine how a bingo ball would have found it's way into my game by mistake when you can't even buy bingo balls in Australia (as far as as I know).

I was thinking of installing a thermal fuse on my Centaur magnet (& on my Fireball zipper flipper magnet) The fuse could in installed & physically mounted to the magnet with a dob of silicone, the idea is that if the transistor shorts & the magnet stays on & heats up it will trip the thermal fuse before the magnet shorts out & which can also damage the playfield. You can get pretty low temp thermal fuses.

I was thinking that with a regular inline fuse set up the magnet will stay energised if the transistor fails & get quite hot before it blows the fuse?

IMG_6687 (resized).JPG

My Centaur makes that exact sound randomly, it didn't make that sound at all for the first few years, then it started, it's a weird glitch for sure, I find it annoying. I am going to replace the caps in the S&T board in a hope to get rid of it.

Ok, I was hoping that might get rid of it. Weird how mine didn't do it for years then started the random noises? maybe someone might know what's going on, or it may just remain a mystery.

Yes, the laughter call is a great addition.

The home roms on Fathom are great too adding some extra speech phrases that were not originally used. I also can't understand why it was not all used when it was there to use.

Ah, that makes sense, having to leave out some speech calls to save some CPU ROM space.

I wasn't aware or extra sounds added to the home ROM? I don't remember noticing any new sounds when I first put the home roms in.

Will give it a go, mine also was fine for the first few years, never the sound at all, then it started & always happens at some point, even worse it repeats a lot sometimes, almost becomes constant.

Is this what you mean? mine is off centre & their is only about 1.5mm sideways movement, so it's always off centre as in the pic. the balls launch perfectly every time, so I don't think being off centre is a problem with ball launches. 1 -1.5mm sideways movement is about normal.

If everything is nice & free moving on the mech & you get an occasional weak launch, it may be a dry join connector issue for the launch coil, SDB (J5 pin 14) that goes to the solenoid expander for this coil or possibly a dry join/problem on the solenoid expander board pins also for this coil.

Also some additional pics of that mech on this thread...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pre-purchase-centaur-advice-needed

IMG_7422 (resized).JPG
IMG_7424 (resized).JPG

One diode for the coil & no bulb for the expander. Wiring should look like the pics. Coil should be AO-25-950.

IMG_7438 (resized).JPG
IMG_7443 (resized).JPG
IMG_7446 (resized).JPG

Sounds good, thanks!

It's called a triac, it relates to the gi flashing on & off that Centaur does.
They are pretty reliable.

You can read about them here...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-triac-questions

Mine does it occasionally. It just starts up, goes for a few months it seems then stops. Has been normal for a while now.

As other people have experienced this too & you have replaced the boards it looks like it is just an anomaly with Centaur. Must admit I hate it when it starts up, it's really annoying & I would like to know if their is a fix for it too.

One thing to try if you haven't is add capacitors to the flipper switches, this should help to eliminate interference causing phantom pop bumpers going off.

Post #218

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pop-bumper-fires-with-flipper-activity/page/5

Should be able to find them easily, like the ones from Jaycar for example. They dont have to be the ceramic type.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/100nf-100vdc-polyester-capacitor/p/RG5125

The .047uf caps vid is referring to is for the general switches, for the flipper switch it should be a different value - .1uf/100nf 100 volt as far as I know.

The .047uf caps rated at 50 volts, for a flipper switch, it would be best to use a high voltage cap rated at 100 volts or more.

One possibility is the M2732A eprom(s) you are using & the programming voltage &/or lack of external power supply could be the issue.

Assuming the Flash Gordon MPU was booting up before you removed the 2732 eprom at U6?

If you are using new "ST" M2732A eproms bought from ebay it's probably not a genuine "ST" but a different new 2732 that has been made in china & has a ST stamp, essentially a "clone". The "fake" ST M2732A eproms are still 2732s & should still work fine but are a bit different & have to be programmed at 25v not 21v as stated on the chip itself. An original ST M2732A would be programmed at 21v but not the clones.

With the external power supply added, set the GQ-4X device selection to the "all (generic)" setting & select "2732 (25v vpp)" & this should work for these eproms, if not it's a different problem. Maybe try a different brand of 2732s?.

If you have a few of the 2732s on hand or an eraser, may pay to burn an eprom first with the known good factory Flash Gordon U6 programme & try that before trying to burn any custom eproms just to see if your PC & programmer are all working ok.

I had trouble creating custom roms for Centaur, everything was set up ok with the burner, the roms burnt & verified ok, but just didn't work. I had the solid LED as well. I re-tried a few more times starting again from scratch & then burning more eproms, doing everything the same, then one lot finally worked. Not sure what was wrong. Once everything is set up & known to work, if still no luck, may pay to try the whole process again, you should get there. Well worth having the custom roms - love them!

Sounds like the M2732As you have are no good or just not working with your setup. I usually don't bother adding the external power supply & they still burn ok anyway without it every time. If I have problems I add the power supply to rule it out.

Not sure about those 2732s from chipgate, it's too cheap for as start for genuine NOS Hitachi's & looking closely & comparing the logo next to "japan" the detail doesn't look quite like an original, it's blurred a bit, my guess is these are most likely the same new manufactured 2732s stamped with Hitachi stamp in this case - who knows, they are getting smarter all the time with fakes.

I have bought used/erased Hitachi eproms from funkward-tech, 2532, 2716 eproms as well, all work perfectly. I least you know they are genuine brand original eproms.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HITACHI-HN482732AG-482732-2732-32KBIT-UV-EPROM-X-10pcs/160642081675?hash=item256703a38b:g:RwUAAMXQTgZQ~SpJ

I have had eproms that verified OK then wouldn't work in the game, it happens - not sure why though.

Lock for backbox

http://pbresource.com/locks.html

The metal bells are hard to find, you could contact knazzo & ask, (great seller) if not, the seller here on ebay has several plastics for sale (depending on how many bells you need) you could remove the bells from the plastic & reuse, it may be the only option. Here is one example he has.

ebay.com link: SUPERSONIC BALLY 1979 PINBALL MACHINE PLAYFIELD ORG PLASTIC REPLACE M 1330 139 2

Knocker assembly (same as centaur knocker).

ebay.com link: Bally FATHOM Solid State SS Pinball Machine MORE CABINET KNOCKER

Pinball resource normally carry both the left & right bracket, I have enquired about these before. About $11.00 each from memory.

I could never reach the top target via a queens chamber shot, my linears are very strong, but still can't, I assumed it probably had to be a direct shot.
Just to confirm, you are able to reach the target via a queens chamber shot with the retrofitted early bally mechs?

Might be time to swap them over.

May be 27 gauge for rewinding according to someone that had a go (2 goes) at rewinding a Centaur magnet.

http://blog.danjoannis.com/?p=1165

I can confirm, in my game, the ball I have in the chamber is larger (& heavier) than a standard ball. The larger ball weighs 95 grams & standard ball 80 grams. For me, it is only just possible for the larger messenger ball to reach the top target (via the rollovers) sometimes, it's hard. My flippers are rebuilt & very strong, so probably the same as when they were new. With the standard size messenger ball it's dead easy to make the top target this way. It doesn't feel right with the standard lighter ball to me.

So, if the games came from the factory with standard balls, it would seem that a lot of people must have replaced them with the larger/heavier Bingo? balls to make it harder.

I saw your pic on the other thread, pretty sure all games came with a magnet. I have never seen a Centaur without a factory fitted magnet, even stranger the fact the wiring does not seem to be present in the harness also.

.

I had trouble attaching pics on the previous reply.

Here are some pics of mine.

Edit: Just had another look at your pf. Yes I can see the magnet wiring - you have the magnet wiring in place as it should be.

The two wires coming from the magnet are black & connect to the two playfield mounted terminals with a diode across that already have the wires from the loom connected as seen in my pic.

To verify wiring, check continuity from SDB J5 pin 3 to the terminal with the Gray/red wire & the other terminal with the yellow wires to any solenoid power terminal lug with yellow wires.

IMG_1068 (resized).JPGIMG_1069 (resized).JPGIMG_1103 (resized).JPGIMG_1089 (resized).JPGIMG_1065 (resized).JPG
Inkedb34500d6ca338e9638a82acdc7250e13230d5567 (4)_LI (resized).jpg

The only three instances where the magnet is energised is when:

1) Hitting the release target when the orb release lamp is lit from dropping 1-4 targets down in sequence (with or without any orbs in storage)

2) Queens's chamber release target when targets down (with or without orbs in storage)

2) Hitting the release target after dropping 1-4 targets out of sequence lighting the alternating 2x-5X collect bonus lamps.

One very cool thing thing that occurs on the rare occasion (at least on my game) depending on the timing, is when the magnet is holding a ball & another ball is released from the orb tunnel & kisses the magnet held ball & gets knocked backed to the shooter lane - very nice, gotta have the magnet functional!

I was wondering why so many of these magnets are burned? as the power line to the magnet is fused with the playfield 1 amp s/b it should be protected if a driver transistor locks on. Maybe incorrect value playfield fuses were installed in games where this happens? or should ideally the other gray/red wire from the driver board be fused also?

Yeah, I'm interested to know as well. I have also been running the Oliver home ROMs for years & love the added features (also the Oliver home ROMs are a must for Fathom as well) I thought the Oliver home ROMs had the only updated Centaur code available.

No, from here. The info is there for the changes to gameplay, just a few things, but much better than stock. The "laugh" Centaur gives you for knocking the Orbs out of sequence is a great addition alone.

https://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_soft.html

centaur / 27 - down near the bottom of the page.

File name:

p-centv27.zip

It's not a case of just downloading & burning ROMs, it's a bit more, you need patch some files together & create some custom ROMs from memory

If R9 in particular goes out of spec it can affect speech to some degree for sure. You can correct slow, fast, or garbled speech (in some cases) by changing the TMS5200s associated R9 resistor to a different spec, or to the factory spec (if it is out) or do what I did & install variable resistor.

That cleaned up the garbled speech. Fun to hear speech from very slow almost unintelligible to chipmunk sounding speech!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/broken-speech-chip-tms5200nl-in-squawk-and-talk-board#post-5303693

They should reset straight away at all times regardless of what's going on.. With maybe a slight delay at most. I just simulated this scenario on my game with all 5 balls in the shooter lane, manually pressing many switches along with the ORBS targets in & out of sequence, the targets reset as normal - when targets dropped in sequence, targets reset, but no ball is of course deployed (as all 5 are out) & the GI doesn't go out momentarily like when a ball is normally deployed. I am running the Oliver custom ROMs, but would expect the same from the stock ROMs.

Odd problem, maybe a dip switch or coin door setting(s) combination that is somehow affecting the reset, not sure how it could though, but all I can think of. Are you running a stock -35 MPU?

Check the voltage at TP1 on the rectifier board which should be 6.5V, if higher there, it could be rectifier R2 ceramic resistor that has gone open - check for 25ohm resistance across R2.

I have seen this before with a failed R2 measuring close to 8V at rectifier TP1, all incandescents were burned out

Plugging in the AU lamp driver just adds more active lamps which may be why the fuse is blowing with more current draw with that voltage & not blowing when unplugged as less lamps in total are lit.

R2 is just one possible cause worth checking/eliminating, 7.2V is a bit high. Not sure on the Triac, would have thought the 20A fuse would have blown both with or without the AU lamp driver board installed if the Triac was shorted. usually a very robust part unless lugs get physically broken. If it does end up needing replacing, this is a suitable Triac sub.

NTE5673

ebay.com link: itm

That sounds more like a partial short somewhere, good idea to look around check for shorts. Start with the braid & then inspect other lamp connections/sockets.

You're welcome, great to hear it got resolved!

Your wiring on that socket is correct.

Ah, Monkfe has already got a pic up - you can be doubly sure it's correct now!
IMG_2466 (resized).JPG

No, you only get the laugh when the orbs are hit out of sequence with Oliver's custom ROMs.

Wow, certainly didn't know that! great, just changed my settings. I always assumed the laugh was unused speech with stock ROMS like with some of the unused speech with Fathom stock ROMS that were then implemented in the home ROMS.

Now it has me wondering if Fathom has other speech calls depending on the coin combinations?

Edit: Fathom plays a sound for any extra coins added for 1 credit, then the usual speech phrase on the last coin for the credit.

That would be great, if time permits.

I remember some discussion a few years ago about trying to determine who's voice was actually used for Centaur.

Thanks Quench for taking the time to document & post all this info.

<blockquote

Check you have a working #555 lamp & also check for a socket short with the dedicated lamp for the under playfield Aux driver as per pic.

The Q14 SCR relates to this.

IMG_2515 (2) (resized).jpg

That's correct, 1-4 targets out of order activates the magnet but does not release any orbs. This is actually a good skill shot as you time your shot from the left flipper to hit the release target aiming to achieve the 5X multiplier - it's quite difficult to get the 5X as it speeds up.

Target release lamp always comes on regardless on the last ball, but lamp can alternate on & off depending on dip switch #21

Switch #21 to "on" will keep the release lamp lit all the time once it comes on & switched to off will alternate the lamp, but only alternates the lamp on/off when on the last ball - all other balls will stay solid, furthermore, if you have switch #21 off & you have hit 1-4 in order & light the release lamp on any other ball during the game except for the last ball, when the last ball comes around their will be no alternating of the release lamp, will come on & stay on, in other words the lamp must have to have come on for the first time on the last ball to alternate on/off, this is probably why it appears random.

Just solder in a 5.5v 1 Farad or 1.5 Farad super capacitor (memory capacitor) on the board where the battery originally was, You can leave your 5101 as is. It does what the original NiCad does to supply power to the 5101 & recharges like a battery but will never leak or wear out. Simple.

I have had these on my bally games for 20 years, still fine. Will keep the bookkepping backed up for months with the machine off once charged.

Can see it here. You don't have to drill any holes, just run short leads to the terminals & secure cap with a cable tie.
Probably find them cheaper somewhere else.

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally/Stern#Installation_of_Various_Battery_Eliminators

https://au.mouser.com/c/passive-components/capacitors/supercapacitors-ultracapacitors/?q=1%20farad%20super%20capacitor&capacitance=1%20F&voltage%20rating%20dc=5.5%20VDC

IMG_4456 (resized).jpeg

I have the PCD5101s in some games - on those particular chips you can get a couple of months or so retention between power up! - most economical 5101 in terms of current draw.

345694115_274152354957119_6832428364690629222_n (resized).jpg