(Topic ID: 48888)

Centaur Club.....Members Only!


By vster23

6 years ago



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  • 1,042 posts
  • 189 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by Startek2
  • Topic is favorited by 66 Pinsiders

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#358 4 years ago

Not sure if this has been mentioned before, but here is a link to demonstrate how to repair or completely replace a non-working or missing Centaur playfield magnet as this particular magnet itself is unique to a Centaur.

http://blog.danjoannis.com/?p=1165

#360 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Yikes! good to know about.
-mof

Yep, it's crude, but did the job!

#363 4 years ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

I had this too once...
I fixed it by making sure the wire gate does not bounce when hit.
Sometimes because of this bouncing the ball slips under the wire.
Bend the wire holding the gate so it falls against the post insted of the small end of the wire from the gate.
Just be careful not to break the wire.

Great, I will try that, mine also bounces back then out under the wire to drain about 50% of the time on both sides, very annoying when you have succeded to bounce it into the inlane, assumed that's just the way it is.

Just checked mine & the wire was falling on the post ok, but noticed the ball was not clearing the gate as it went through, when the ball made contact with the slingshot rubber the wire was still just sitting on top of the ball, the ball would then bounce back out off the slingshot rubber.

I moved the wire from the end hole position to the centre & now the ball clears the gate ok & is working perfectly. Can't believe I didn't notice/check this before.

I'm assuming the centre hole position is the correct default position? & the wire may have been put in the first hole at some point when apart.

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7 months later
#459 3 years ago
5 months later
#529 3 years ago

I think I have a NOS decal to compare.

#530 3 years ago

Here are a couple of decals I have, the top one is probably a NOS from about 20 or so years ago, I don't remember where the bottom one is from, different again to Marco's & the ebay decals, but still incorrect. The top one looks correct. May look a bit out of proportion due to the angle I needed to take the shot & not have a reflection.

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2 weeks later
#542 3 years ago

Mine has the larger size bingo ball also. I'm pretty certain it would be the original ball in the queen's chamber, the game I have was Australian delivered, I can't imagine how a bingo ball would have found it's way into my game by mistake when you can't even buy bingo balls in Australia (as far as as I know).

4 months later
#660 2 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

Do you think it would be wise for Centaur owners to install a fuse in series with the Magnet power wires? - like the fuse kit commonly sold for TAF. What rating would you suggest?

I was thinking of installing a thermal fuse on my Centaur magnet (& on my Fireball zipper flipper magnet) The fuse could in installed & physically mounted to the magnet with a dob of silicone, the idea is that if the transistor shorts & the magnet stays on & heats up it will trip the thermal fuse before the magnet shorts out & which can also damage the playfield. You can get pretty low temp thermal fuses.

I was thinking that with a regular inline fuse set up the magnet will stay energised if the transistor fails & get quite hot before it blows the fuse?

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6 months later
#748 2 years ago

My Centaur makes that exact sound randomly, it didn't make that sound at all for the first few years, then it started, it's a weird glitch for sure, I find it annoying. I am going to replace the caps in the S&T board in a hope to get rid of it.

#750 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

My S&T has been recapped and I have a new repro SAI board and mine makes the random sound. Good luck tracking down why it happens, I assumed from the other responses that they all did it.

Ok, I was hoping that might get rid of it. Weird how mine didn't do it for years then started the random noises? maybe someone might know what's going on, or it may just remain a mystery.

Yes, the laughter call is a great addition.

The home roms on Fathom are great too adding some extra speech phrases that were not originally used. I also can't understand why it was not all used when it was there to use.

#756 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The CPU was designed years before the S&T was. By program standards at the factory
A block of memory is spared for fixing software bugs. "Good software practices".
I asked that question about the S*T many years ago at Bally and they said at the time
that there is just not enough room in the ROMs.

Ah, that makes sense, having to leave out some speech calls to save some CPU ROM space.

#757 2 years ago
Quoted from KJL:

Didn't Oliver use some of the previous unused sounds in his Centaur home ROM /27 ? I think he used the space from somewhere else to make the changes. Great ROM, I just don't remember what the sounds were before.

I wasn't aware or extra sounds added to the home ROM? I don't remember noticing any new sounds when I first put the home roms in.

#758 2 years ago
Quoted from Timmo:

I think the problem might be caused by a poor connection at J1 on the S&T. I have had my Centaur for a long time and never heard that sound until recently -

Will give it a go, mine also was fine for the first few years, never the sound at all, then it started & always happens at some point, even worse it repeats a lot sometimes, almost becomes constant.

#760 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Looking forward to getting home and checking out my J1 to try to fix the sound, fingers crossed.
Could someone please post a pic or description of the striker plate on the under playfield ball launcher mech. .

Is this what you mean? mine is off centre & their is only about 1.5mm sideways movement, so it's always off centre as in the pic. the balls launch perfectly every time, so I don't think being off centre is a problem with ball launches. 1 -1.5mm sideways movement is about normal.

If everything is nice & free moving on the mech & you get an occasional weak launch, it may be a dry join connector issue for the launch coil, SDB (J5 pin 14) that goes to the solenoid expander for this coil or possibly a dry join/problem on the solenoid expander board pins also for this coil.

Also some additional pics of that mech on this thread...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pre-purchase-centaur-advice-needed

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#762 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Excellent help thanks Joydivision
I will check my solenoid expander board. I read someone else post that their Centaur 2 didn't have a bulb wired to the expander and didn't have two diodes for the launch solenoid as it says on Pinrepair should be there yet it was working. Does yours have the bulb and two diodes one across the solenoid and one on the power in? It would help to know if mine is wired right or not when I check it tomorrow.

One diode for the coil & no bulb for the expander. Wiring should look like the pics. Coil should be AO-25-950.

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#765 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Fantastic information thanks guys you have saved me wasting time acting upon information that is irrelevant to Centaur.
Next time you are in Tasmania feel free to drop round and I will shout a few drinks

Sounds good, thanks!

#769 2 years ago

It's called a triac, it relates to the gi flashing on & off that Centaur does.
They are pretty reliable.

You can read about them here...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-triac-questions

6 months later
#853 1 year ago
Quoted from Rat:

STILL trying to troubleshoot the crazy sound my Centaur sometimes makes that I linked to earlier,

Mine does it occasionally. It just starts up, goes for a few months it seems then stops. Has been normal for a while now.

As other people have experienced this too & you have replaced the boards it looks like it is just an anomaly with Centaur. Must admit I hate it when it starts up, it's really annoying & I would like to know if their is a fix for it too.

#856 1 year ago
Quoted from Rat:

Now that I know it still does it with new boards and new connectors I have been wondering if it is something to do with EMI through the wires as others have reported for ghost pop bumper activations. Mine had ghost pops also which I have stopped almost completely by running new power wires to the pop bumpers.

One thing to try if you haven't is add capacitors to the flipper switches, this should help to eliminate interference causing phantom pop bumpers going off.

Post #218

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pop-bumper-fires-with-flipper-activity/page/5

Should be able to find them easily, like the ones from Jaycar for example. They dont have to be the ceramic type.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/100nf-100vdc-polyester-capacitor/p/RG5125

#858 1 year ago
Quoted from Rat:

I will try caps on my flipper button switches soon and let you know how that goes. I have some 47p 50V from jaycar here already which is what vid1900 recommends in the link you provided.

The .047uf caps vid is referring to is for the general switches, for the flipper switch it should be a different value - .1uf/100nf 100 volt as far as I know.

The .047uf caps rated at 50 volts, for a flipper switch, it would be best to use a high voltage cap rated at 100 volts or more.

3 months later
#899 1 year ago
Quoted from Largemann:

Hi all, hoping someone could help me with installing the home roms from this site: http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_soft.html
I have a Centaur and a Flash Gordon I've been trying to get working with them.
I patched and confirmed the CRCs, then I used a GQ4X to burn the images onto some M2732A eproms. I don't have an external power supply for my burner, but the writing seemed to go smoothly, no errors and the chips all verified.
I put the chips into both games and I can't get either game to get past a solid green LED from boot. I replaced the U2 and U6 in Centaur, and just the U6 in FG.
I've pulled the chips and read them and they seem to verify OK.
I figure I'll start with Flash Gordon since I only have to deal with writing one chip at a time. The U6 I pulled from FG was also a 2732, so I believe the jumpers should be correct. Do I need to order a different model of 2732?
I've also ordered an external power supply for the burner, just in case. Any other ideas?

One possibility is the M2732A eprom(s) you are using & the programming voltage &/or lack of external power supply could be the issue.

Assuming the Flash Gordon MPU was booting up before you removed the 2732 eprom at U6?

If you are using new "ST" M2732A eproms bought from ebay it's probably not a genuine "ST" but a different new 2732 that has been made in china & has a ST stamp, essentially a "clone". The "fake" ST M2732A eproms are still 2732s & should still work fine but are a bit different & have to be programmed at 25v not 21v as stated on the chip itself. An original ST M2732A would be programmed at 21v but not the clones.

With the external power supply added, set the GQ-4X device selection to the "all (generic)" setting & select "2732 (25v vpp)" & this should work for these eproms, if not it's a different problem. Maybe try a different brand of 2732s?.

If you have a few of the 2732s on hand or an eraser, may pay to burn an eprom first with the known good factory Flash Gordon U6 programme & try that before trying to burn any custom eproms just to see if your PC & programmer are all working ok.

I had trouble creating custom roms for Centaur, everything was set up ok with the burner, the roms burnt & verified ok, but just didn't work. I had the solid LED as well. I re-tried a few more times starting again from scratch & then burning more eproms, doing everything the same, then one lot finally worked. Not sure what was wrong. Once everything is set up & known to work, if still no luck, may pay to try the whole process again, you should get there. Well worth having the custom roms - love them!

#901 1 year ago
Quoted from Largemann:

I tried to burn a few unmodified U6 with the 25v vpp setting, and without the external burner. The writes completed and verified every time, but none would boot in the machine.

Sounds like the M2732As you have are no good or just not working with your setup. I usually don't bother adding the external power supply & they still burn ok anyway without it every time. If I have problems I add the power supply to rule it out.

Not sure about those 2732s from chipgate, it's too cheap for as start for genuine NOS Hitachi's & looking closely & comparing the logo next to "japan" the detail doesn't look quite like an original, it's blurred a bit, my guess is these are most likely the same new manufactured 2732s stamped with Hitachi stamp in this case - who knows, they are getting smarter all the time with fakes.

I have bought used/erased Hitachi eproms from funkward-tech, 2532, 2716 eproms as well, all work perfectly. I least you know they are genuine brand original eproms.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HITACHI-HN482732AG-482732-2732-32KBIT-UV-EPROM-X-10pcs/160642081675?hash=item256703a38b:g:RwUAAMXQTgZQ~SpJ

I have had eproms that verified OK then wouldn't work in the game, it happens - not sure why though.

2 months later
#909 1 year ago

Lock for backbox

http://pbresource.com/locks.html

The metal bells are hard to find, you could contact knazzo & ask, (great seller) if not, the seller here on ebay has several plastics for sale (depending on how many bells you need) you could remove the bells from the plastic & reuse, it may be the only option. Here is one example he has.

ebay.com link » Supersonic Bally 1979 Pinball Machine Playfield Org Plastic Replace M 1330 139 2

Knocker assembly (same as centaur knocker).

ebay.com link » Bally Fathom Solid State Ss Pinball Machine More Cabinet Knocker

9 months later
#1020 3 months ago
Quoted from Fortytwo:

If you have the part number. Check with Pinball resource. He has some things. All by part number.

Pinball resource normally carry both the left & right bracket, I have enquired about these before. About $11.00 each from memory.

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