(Topic ID: 48888)

Centaur Club.....Members Only!

By vster23

6 years ago

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  • 1,042 posts
  • 189 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 days ago by Startek2
  • Topic is favorited by 66 Pinsiders


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#277 5 years ago

Not a Centaur owner yet, but one day. Question: I was just checking out the photos at the IPDB listing and I see a wireform/habitrail/subway running the length of the shooter lane under the playfield. It's been a long time since I've played a Centaur, what's the purpose of this?

1 year later
#357 4 years ago

Posted this in another thread, if anyone can help. Hope to be a member soon!


1 week later
#364 4 years ago

I should be picking one up on Thursday. I'll have to take the head off to get it home, so question: will I have to disconnect the wiring directly from the boards, or do Ballys of this era have connectors midway between the playfield and the head?

#368 4 years ago
Quoted from shock_me:

Midway connectors. Don't forget to disconnect the ground braid in the head. Congrats on the Centaur purchase!

Thanks! Are they similar to Molex round pin connectors? Edit: um, if they actually do disconnect, that is...

#371 4 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

I picked it up today. Rough and in need of TLC but I'll have this beast singing sweet reberb laden music in no time!

Nice! I see you updated your collection status immediately! Hopefully at this time tomorrow I'll have mine home.

#372 4 years ago

I'm in the club too! Just got home with it, also rough and in need of TLC, but one big plus, the original backglass is perfect, no scratches or peeling. Numerous incorrect parts to replace, like the pop bumper caps from Eight Ball Deluxe and, of all games, Williams' Flash. I had been told it was raided for parts at one point, but it looks like everything irreplaceable is still there.

#382 4 years ago

I'll throw up a few pix of mine too. Most of the playfield is pretty well preserved because someone applied a full-width sheet of mylar to it, and then cut out holes for the bulbs, switches, etc. with a x-acto knife. Then, at some point, someone started peeling up the mylar, as there are strips of it missing and tears/cuts in it here & there. Very strange. Also strange is that it only covers the lower half of the pf, so there's wear around the pops, the top of the shooter lane, etc. Obviously I have some parts to replace, like the pop caps from EBD and Flash. They didn't even get the right manufacturer for that one. Plastics are absolute toast and will be replaced. Anyone got a spare gate for the left in/outlane? Don't need the wire, just the gate part. Mine was bent and then unbent, and looks terrible.

I'm furious with myself because the backglass, after 34 years, was perfect....UNTIL I brought it home! Didn't realize that the screws locking the display board weren't tightened all the way, so the bumps on the trip home wore a 1/8" hole in one area. Luckily it's a solid black area and easily touch-uppable, but still, I've been kicking myself over this for four days. There's always one little thing that you forget.....

There are a few very odd hacks that I need to take care of before I can power up and see what needs fixing, which I'll post in a new thread.


#385 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Wow - u taught me a nice lesson -- always bring a nice 2' x 2' sheet of (cloth/thin bubble wrap?) and put it behind the glass before traveling with a backglass...

Or just tighten the screws. All I had to do was tighten the damn screws! Grrrrrrrrr!

2 weeks later
#395 4 years ago

Would someone mind pulling off their plastic and taking a few close-up photos of this right rear area for me? A previous owner removed the wireform, added a plastic post, and creatively re-routed a rubber for some ungodly reason, and I want to fix this mess. Can't tell where the correct holes are supposed to be for anything. Bonus points if you can tell me how long the wireform is supposed to be, since I'm obviously going to be bending my own.


#397 4 years ago

Thanks s2k4ary! Weird.....looks like my pf was never drilled for the wireform, maybe that's why they added a post and rubber. Can I bother you to take one last shot so I can see exactly where the upper left end of the wireform goes into the playfield?

#399 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

one way to do this is to remove those components. Lay down a sheet of wax paper. Mark where the dots go. Then scan the wax paper. Email him a copy.

That could actually work out really well, given a few more correct posts/dots on the sheet to align to. At some point, someone really went to town on my playfield and drilled extra holes for things all over the place....for example, I'll remove a red plastic post and find three holes underneath, or then there's the extra post someone decided to add between the sets of metal posts behind the "O-R" and "B-S" targets. I want to return everything to factory correct but don't have a template to copy from.

#401 4 years ago

That's a huge help s2k4ary, thanks again. As I thought, there's no hole anywhere near the top end of the wireform, the closest one is the hole for the red post near it. I wonder if they changed that part of the pf layout at some point and it's actually correct for my machine.

I like your nice clean standups, did you rivet in new target faces?

2 months later
#403 4 years ago

Would anyone mind taking a micrometer and measuring the thickness of their shooter lane flap for me? Heaven knows how but my flap actually has a chunk missing from it and needs replacing. PBR sells blue steel sheets in three thicknesses, .01", .006" and .004". My measures to .01" but according to PBR that's for newer 90's games. I'd just like to corroborate the thickness with one or two other owners and make sure I'm ordering the correct sheet.


#405 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

You can order one from Cliffy.

Got a link? I went thru his site but saw nothing there for Centaur. I'd rather order the blank steel, can use it for a few other things also, just want to make sure to get the right thickness.

2 months later
#418 3 years ago
Quoted from stoptap:

I'm in ! I actually got a Centaur AND a Medusa as a bundle.

Nice......that's what I'd call a bundle of joy.

4 months later
#481 3 years ago

Here's a pic from the Centaur flyer, that end does indeed just float over the plastic.


2 months later
#492 3 years ago

Wow BladeFury, that's a stunning unrestored machine.

In other news: Woop Woop!! CPR Centaur playfields are in the clearcoat stage. Won't be long now!!

1 week later
#502 3 years ago
Quoted from thierryv:

High end pin's didn't patented his silver cabinet version so I felt free to do a little copy

Is that an original or reprinted coindoor sticker? If reprinted, where did you get it? Only one I've seen that looks correct like the original.

#508 3 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

I'd like my Centaur cabinet completely upholstered in genuine black leather with metal studs all over it. Sort of like this.

Coolest idea EVER. Add the Centaur graphics sewn/embroidered on like the MC club logo/rocker on a biker jacket.

1 week later
#511 3 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

I just got myself a Bally sticker for my coin door. What is the difference between the correct original sticker and an incorrect reproduction? Mine is on a silver background material. I assumed it is NOS by maybe not?

The one sold on ebay is similar to the sticker above but (to my eyes) it's a mess. The letters in "Bally" are too thin, the circle is off-center, and there should be an even # of triangles so that the bottom one points to 6 o'clock, matching the pattern on the older Bally pop bumper caps; instead there are eleven. Also the overall artwork is too small on the sticker.

Whoever produced them should have had the artwork done correctly before producing hundreds/thousands of incorrect-looking parts. Yeah, I know this is real nitpickety, it's just a coindoor sticker and you don't play the coindoor, you play the game; it's just a pet peeve of mine leftover from incorrect decals on restored musclecars. If I could find a place to print a small run of mirrored mylar stickers I'd have them done myself.

#521 3 years ago

Your machine may be different than mine but my Centaur used 1-3/16" ribbed posts as opposed to 1-1/8". Both the 1-3/16" (C952-1) and the 1" posts (C951-1) are available at Pinball Resource:


#527 3 years ago
Quoted from iron00monkey:

Dang man, that eBay one is so bad!

The Marco sticker really isn't any better. The circular background is more accurate but still has the wrong # of triangles, and the BALLY word is uneven and looks like it was drawn by a child. If anyone has a decent original sticker or door with a sticker on it that they can scan, I'd like to redo the artwork.

3 weeks later
#545 3 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

All the balls in my machine are really new looking, so I'm guessing the original bingo ball was replaced with standard. And I can see why...$15 for a Bingo Ball. But still, it would be nice to get the game back to original condition.

Marco is a great company with much stuff unavailable elsewhere, but some of their prices are "unrealistic". Same ball at Pinball Resource is $3.52


1 month later
#579 3 years ago

Here's a pic from my files, I believe this is MikeD's Centaur resto. Hope it's helpful.

126596 (resized).jpg

2 months later
#621 2 years ago

I think determining what size should be used for the captive ball, standard or bingo, could be extrapolated from what exactly was the purpose of the hole in that plastic. Here are some facts to chew:

The "slot" hole in Centaur's captive ball plastic is 1" wide. This doesn't allow for removal/insertion of either a standard or a bingo ball without taking off the plastic. It does, however span the length of all the drop targets, so I think it's there to allow for removal/replacement of broken or worn drop targets without having to disassemble the drop target mechanism.

Space Invaders has a similar hole in its captive ball plastic, circular not a slot like Centaur; no drop targets versus the drops on Centaur. This hole is 1 3/32" wide, large enough to allow insertion of a standard-sized ball if it somehow escapes the captive area, or removal if the game is stored on end, moved, or shipped. A bingo ball wouldn't fit through this hole. What could possibly be any other purpose? This still doesn't, however, solve the riddle of the Centaur ball size.

While I picked up a PBR bingo ball to replace the Centaur captive, and I've always thought that was the correct size for this and the Space Invaders (and other Bally) captive balls, the holes in the plastic do make a case that it's a standard 1/16" that was used. That, and the fact that it would have been just plain easier to use the same ball size for everything at the factory. I'll still be using my bingo ball though.

#632 2 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

I honestly don't see what you see. The tape measure on the left is not perfectly aligned. I see "maybe" a 1/32 difference. Claiming a 1/8" difference doesn't see, remotely correct.

It's clearly 1 1/8". The ruler's "1" line is directly over the left edge of the slot, and the "2 1/8" line is directly over the right edge. Since the photo wasn't taken directly over the plastic, what you're seeing at 1/32" is actually the bottom of the plastic, due to perspective.

#635 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Minus the two obscure return lane plastics that nobody uses.
Another miss by Classic Playfield Reproduction.
(Bally had an option to remove the bounce back feature by
fiscally redesigning the return lanes.) Yes, it makes the
game harder.

Were these similar to the small plastics right next to the flippers, but longer and more of a "J" shape? I have a pair of those, I always wondered what they were. They must have been reproduced at some point.

#641 2 years ago

Here's a pic, if anyone was wondering what these looked like. The blue is the original protective plastic coating, slightly peeled on one. IIRC at least one of the holes doesn't line up with a normal screw hole, which would necessitate drilling the playfield.

100_7410 (resized).JPG

#644 2 years ago

Are there any owners/users here of the Rottendog BPS054 rectifier board in their Centaur? Any issues with the board, would you highly recommend it?

#646 2 years ago

While I can't speak for everybody, I'm still sure I speak for just about everybody when I say that the first version with the full-size backglass is preferred. Just like the original Eight Ball Deluxe with the full backglass is preferred.

6 months later
#712 2 years ago

If you can't find 1-11/16" coil sleeves, just take the very common 1-3/4" sleeves used on Williams games and cut/grind/sand 1/16" off the end. Takes about ten seconds per sleeve.

3 weeks later
#772 2 years ago

As long as we're on the subject of the Centaur triac......should there be heat sink paste applied between the triac and the transformer/rectifier plate when installing it, the same way the bridge rectifiers get paste between them and the plate? Mine looked like it had the crusty white remains of h.s. paste when I removed it, not sure if that was originally there though.

1 month later
#788 2 years ago

Not my photo, but here you go.

cent (resized).jpg

4 weeks later
#810 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

"Try side awards double": reference for queens chamber.

I don't think it's "five" or "try". Doesn't sound exactly like either and neither makes complete sense. Sounds like "hive side awards double" to me, perhaps in reference to a "queen's hive" that didn't make it onto the final playfield artwork, and thus the corresponding speech was also omitted from the game? That area on the playfield is a dungeon, and it doesn't make sense that the queen's chamber would be a dungeon; my theory is that originally this area was to be the queen's hive, and the artwork changed to a dungeon before production. Would be a good question to ask Patla & Faris at an expo.

4 months later
#865 1 year ago

When I first got my Centaur, I made a set of custom cards that used the typeface from the flyer and the color scheme of the apron, and also detailed the various "feature" callouts from attract mode. Shoot me a PM if you'd like a PDF file to print them out.

Centaur custom cards (resized).jpg

6 months later
#910 1 year ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Hi all. Can anyone point me in the right direction for th ed following items?
The metal bells that attach to the small plastics near the flippers

Unless you'e really intent on using those metal bells, you might consider using 1/2" black spacers instead. Since they're not metal they won't dig into your playfield when you tighten them down. You can find them at Marco:


or salvage them from countless Williams games from the 80s & 90s. Crispin used these on his Centaur and I plan to on mine.

10 months later
#1022 3 months ago

Anyone seen the new Geico commercials with "Motaur"? Wonder where they got the idea from?

mo-taur (resized).jpg
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