Redmond, WA
looking for some alternate price plate for my machine, anyone know where these are from?
(Topic ID: 48888)
Linked Games
Centaur
Bally, 1981-
Centaur II
Bally, 1983
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3 months later
Quoted from Quench:vec-tor beat me to it but here's another pic from post #963 earlier in this thread: both input and output signals are shielded.
[quoted image]
is there remake of those cables that are less ugly? it always makes me cringe 
1 month later
6 months later
i have a refurbished Centaur with original boards + LED adapters, fully LEDs. it looks great and crisp but the attract mode is crazy! It blinks non stop, which is pretty painful when you play the game next to it. Is there something i can do to avoid it?
Quoted from Geocab:Right now the only solution is to bypass the triac in the cabinet, which would also remove any in game effects like the lights shutting off when a ball is added to the field.
hmmm not great but i mean it's really crazy :/
here is a video of it:
https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ahxi0c_5v2PVp48NBQPq1b5uHwLgZw?e=7Jtouh
3 weeks later
Quoted from gdonovan:Yes, Multi-ball should start if you have 4 balls "loaded" the game is clearly seeing the switch strike as the magnet activates.
Is the release light on in front of the lane? And what happens under the same conditions if you "release" at the Queens chamber switch?
you have to make sure release light is on, some times it is off, some times it alternates. test by completing the lower right bank of target in order, that should light it, then shoot the upper right stand up.
1 week later
Quoted from vec-tor:Are the rubber rings 3/4" and not 1"
B-S target side could be moved back a smidge.
O-R target side could be moved forward a smidge.
if all fail, shave some of the back of the target so there is more "room" for it to get pushed back when hit and drop down-
1 week later
Quoted from GKW:I am still in need of the curved part of the upper playfield trough. This is the part where the ball kicker passes through. Does anyone have one that they would like to sell? Thank you!
[quoted image]
best look through ebay or put an ad on Pinside market place for something like that imo-
5 months later
my back left in line drop target sometime have issues resetting up. It looks like there is just enough friction with the new drop target spring to make it hard for the mech when they are all down...
I know the mech is using a NO26-1900 coil but did anyone experiment going "up" to a NO26-2300? just curious-
Quoted from Quench:A NO26-2300 coil is actually less powerful than a NO26-1900.
ah yes, less winding is stronger pull, so maybe a NO25-1600?
Quoted from slochar:You shouldn't have to do this you should be able to fix that one target either sand it a little or adjust the spring tension. Later inline drops have an adjustable foot too to tweak the height too but that also affects the reset stroke.
i have try, i think it has to do with the re-clear job making pf hole a little tighter and now that the PF has screw holes in the wood... i thought a slightly stronger coil for $15 may be a quicker "fix"
1 month later
Quoted from Geocab:My return lane plastic broke over the weekend. Any idea what I can do as a temporary fix? I don't want to buy a whole plastic set right now just for this one piece. I also don't know where the other piece is so be able to glue it together, even though I'm not sure how well that would work anyway. I searched back in this thread and saw the Cliffy makes metal pieces to go here but he is extremely backlogged so I probably won't see those for months to come.
Suggestions?
[quoted image]
make your own with some lexan/acrylic until you get a better one?
Quoted from FLASHBALL:I kept getting wierd hangups in the trough. (See picture) Took me a while to figure out what was going on. Today I finally took a close look and found the outhole switch arm was sitting about 1/4" too high. Thus the ball couldn't sit in the trough slot all the way. Bent the arm down slightly and now all is working perfectly again.
Just passing along info in case a future Centaur owner is pulling their hair out trying to figure this out.
[quoted image]
the left side of your guide look too high, you can even see the screw hole lower where it should be. the kicker arm actually hits it (mine if pretty dented by now) to stop it from going it too far so there is not enough space for a ball to jam itself underneath.
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