By any chance does someone have an apron scan? I'd like to try and make a decal with my vinyl cutter.
(Topic ID: 48888)
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Centaur
Bally, 1981-
Centaur II
Bally, 1983
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2 weeks later
Quoted from djblouw:Is this what you need?
[quoted image]
Almost, I think I figured it out.
Mine had a loop connecting the two switches along with a wire to each. Redundant and not sure why it was done. Looking over the pictures I have collected, some have the loop and others do not.
2 months later
Quoted from vec-tor:I am hoping a kind Centaur owner could take a few clean pictures of the upper left side of the playfield.
I need a few reference pictures from the underside where the hinge bracket is and lamp sockets.
It's the inline queens chamber area... much appreciated.
Cheers, vec-tor.
I can do this tonight when I get home as I have a complete Centaur playfield on the bench.
Quoted from vec-tor:gdonovan Excellent! Thank you!
"Looks like I have some work to do".
Thank you again gdonovan, you are awesome!
No problem.
1 week later
Quoted from Dakine747:I've gotten slingshot kicker heads here, and even though it looks like they make just about everything ELSE, I don't see pop bodies.....yet anyway.
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/tech/mechanical-parts?s=0&tag=swinksreproduction#more-products
The commonly available Data East heads fit the Bally mech fine.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7501
I have installed a few on Bally's
Could someone be so kind to take a close up picture of the playfield power connector from the solenoid driver board J2 connector? I'm trying to find a replacement, the harness I have someone cut it out. A quick measurement would be ideal too! Thanks!
192b7353bc5bc7b625991a5005809e71c17851b9 (resized).jpged54ea2de6b7597622603a07e205f56c23827145 (resized).jpgf97005e3a9f9737bde3 (resized).jpg
Quoted from sunnRAT:3/4". Does this help?
[quoted image]
And one of the connector has a point on it right?
Quoted from sunnRAT:Yes[quoted image]
Found these on Ebay, Chinese no doubt but what were rolling with it!
Thank you again!
5 pin (resized).jpgQuestion Quench- what does the last trough switch do? I'm assuming it's for indication of broken ball diverter as it's in a "5th ball" location.
Quoted from vec-tor:I do not know if you want me to answer that question.
But..... If in multi-ball and the last two balls "drain stack" and get fed into
the underground trough.... well, kick a ball out...
Proper game operations is;
four balls underground, one ball on top.
That is what I figured, in theory you should only have 4 in trough due to the mechanical diverter. One at the "5th ball" location makes no sense unless there is a mechanical failure of the diverter or as you say a quick ball stackup.
2 weeks later
Fellow Centaur owners a question you can perhaps answer for me.
About one time out of ten the ball loader solenoid will fail to get a ball into the underground launcher. You will hear the mech fire but the ball doesn't make it into position. Its just random enough I can't quite witness it but the one time I did the ball seemed to be launched hard out of the trough and actually bounced back in place before the next ball in line could move forward.
Anyone else run into this? I tried tweaking the pawl position, weaker spring, stronger spring and even a piece of foam on the "stop tab" across from the trough opening which seemed to help.
Of course when the ball doesn't load proper, it will try and launch the ball (which isn't there) 3 or 4 times before giving up. You would think the switch in the center not being tripped by a ball launch would let the MPU know nothing is happening and try again to load a ball.
Quoted from vec-tor:That problem is inherit to the game.
I did a modification to the 1st ball micro switch. I used a long flat blade type.
That stopped a lot of problems with the game.
Well thats unfortunate as it will drive me crazy.
Have a picture of the switch install? I have a few other ideas to try as well.
It's not an outhole kicker, it's the mech that feeds balls from the trough to the launcher under the playfield.
Everything operates smoothly, no burrs. If you go into coil test it will launch them all day too. Just under heavy game play it will drop the ball time to time so to speak.
Quoted from vec-tor:That problem is inherit to the game.
I did a modification to the 1st ball micro switch. I used a long flat blade type.
That stopped a lot of problems with the game.
Between adding a 1 Ohm resistor to the coil power and careful adjustment to the mech I have been able to tune this out today.
Worked perfect over several games.
20220218_193015 (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from Heretic_9:How is that different from stock ? I'm not sure what the previous owner might have done with mine, but it looks like at least some of that is already present. (I associated the 'Mantis' name with games that have a scoop, like AFM after the gate retracts, where you'd want to protect the wood from ball hits.)
These are all replacements for restoration. I was going to build a Centaur from scratch and was collecting parts and ended up with a loaded 1981 playfield.
1 week later
Quoted from Heretic_9:Sometimes it misses making contact entirely, and just drains right around. Not much that can be done in those cases.
Yup, I have had no shortage of those.
Quoted from Heretic_9:I'm reluctant to move posts. The 5/16" donuts did not do the trick, and the nudge maneuver for the gates doesn't seem to work often enough. I'm next going to escalate to 7/16" donuts or maybe even try the next size above that, and with them pushed down on the posts a bit lower. Will see if that helps. I'd like to get closer to a 50 % rate on the return gates.
Try this, cost nothing.
When I was setting up a used playfield for testing it was missing a bunch of parts and elastics so I just slapped a 2"? ring on the two posts.
The game did get harder when I went to the proper elastics. Worth a try and people usally have spare elastics about.
b88db8b62b6b5040f8ed9f8db28f2f65fb6e05e0 (resized).jpgQuoted from Quench:The idea is that the metal mass of the plunger on the older flipper mechs is less than the longer plunger on the linear mech so the old mech is able to generate a bit faster thrust.
I can't quantify what difference it will make in your game.
I have a fairly steep pitch on my Centaur and have no problem pounding a ball upfield or making the Queens chamber shot with original flipper mechs.
Even snapped a few of the old ORBS drop targets and had to replace them.
If the ball can't make it up field, then there is something wrong.
Quoted from Quench:The crusty linear mechs in my Centaur play decent enough, the Queens chamber shot to the end is hard but do-able.
I had made it several times, may wish to make sure there is a cap on the switch to make sure a hit is picked up. Frequently they have been cut off.
The difference on mine when the caps were all replaced with new ones was notable.
Quoted from Heretic_9:Oh, the ball gets up there: just not with sufficient force to score that last inline domino, and forget about scoring the special behind it, on the (maybe two ?) occasions where I did get that far.
Then you have some other problem, you should have no problem making those shots assuming your aim is true.
1) Check voltage going to flipper coils. Supply is from the A2 power board playfield connector to the fuse on playfield bottom.
2) Check connections (2) for flippers at SDB
3) Check cabinet flipper switches (high amp contacts) maybe dirty or even worn to the nubs is common.
4) Check flipper EOS switches for dirt or maladjustment.
1 week later
Quoted from Heretic_9:[references thread Post #1608]
O.K., at least as far as the outer posts go I have now gone through a progression of the silicone donut sizes: 3/8", 7/16", 1/2". The latter has an outsized appearance but makes a rather small difference with the ball bouncing to and through the return gates. I next wanted to try out your 2" (single) ring idea to see how that went, but the 2" rings I had are circular and way too big. Did you quote the size wrong ? Those white rings look stretched taut in the photo. Based on the photo, it looks like this would have to be a smaller ring that has a more narrow oval shape, in order to properly fit the two pf posts. Once I've tried that, I can see what might be done with the inner posts for the return gates.
It does have a question mark next to the size as I was not sure off hand.
1 week later
Quoted from RoyGBev:If this problem is the mechanism failing to mechanically load a ball into the launcher, and launch it, then I don't think it's inherent to the game.
I was able to tune it out with careful switch adjustment but it would come back after several games. After replacing the Bally ball trough switch with a Data East microswitch with a flat lever the problem has not reoccurred.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Heretic_9:They are already installed, and I don't think you can detect any difference when seen from above. Maybe from below, if lifting up the pf. (?) In any case, to reprise, they were:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ASE-1587-10X
as mentioned in my post #1607. A very good Centaur investment, to be sure. Even if I may have to replace those drop target plastics every couple years, it would still be a worthwhile tradeoff.
They get brittle, it's not the flippers.
Quoted from Heretic_9:Does that differ much from other plastic drop targets in other games ? (For example, games like El Dorado are nothing but drop targets.) I have not owned games like that, but have played them elsewhere over the years, and have not noticed this as being some common problem.
My Centaur had original drops and broke 4 or 5 till I replaced them with new. Not uncommon, stuff is all pushing 40 year old plastic getting battered by a steel ball.
Data East is another company where broken original drops are common.
1 month later
Quoted from ChiefKC:This is the one that was at the NWPAS this past weekend. [quoted image]
Tell me about the interesting looking Flash Gordon on the left.
Never mind
Quoted from Heretic_9:Think I've seen your last scenario a handful of times.
One thing that's baffling and annoying is that almost half of the *definite clean hits* to the orb release target on my Centaur, when a MB condition has been earned (or on Ball 5, where it is automatically engaged), do NOT trigger that release. It's a "What Happened Here ?!" My tech has gone over this a couple times, and the cause remains elusive.
Bad or no cap.
Quoted from Heretic_9:Well, it can't be "no cap", as this is clearly working for me intermittently, just not in the case of all or most of the appropriate hits on the release target. So, how does one go about testing this (existing caps) for some deficiency ?
1) It will work without a cap just fine, just won't pickup fast hits.
2) You just replace. The failure rate on caps this old is so high its not even funny and they are dirt cheap. I keep a few hundred on hand.
1 week later
Quoted from Mudflaps:Weird. I wonder why the difference, then? Same tensile strength on the rubber, new coil sleeves, no binding.
26 is the gauge, 1200 is the number of turns of wire on the spool.
Other markings indicate specs for spool, diode or no diode, etc.
Check your EOS switch condition and gap, these are you two biggest contributors to weak flippers. If the contacts are shot to hell, you will not get full power to the coil (this also applies to the flipper button switch!) and if the EOS opens to soon, you will also have weak actuation.
Quoted from Nhpolarbear:It’s been awhile since I had to work on this beast. No bonus lights. Everything else seems to be in order. This game is all original and I think those wire insertion connectors are the most likely culprit. I’ll start with light board connectors and aux board. Could be a fuse. Any suggestions? I just didn’t feel like getting under the hood to explore.
If the other insert lights are working, doubt its a fuse.
The connectors on the main board are the largest offender. When testing something I start with grounding the pin at the connector to see if the lamp illuminates and go from there. If the lamp comes on you have eliminated the bulb, bulb power, socket and pf wiring.
Quoted from Billc479:Mudflaps is asking about the slingshot coils.
Ah, sorry about that!
1 month later
Quoted from Malfeitor:Sure I'll post more when it's done. I revised the Centaur I. I reversed a Star Trek and referenced some of a Xenon bottom cabinet for the cabinet.
I'll check out your mod. I've gotten over 5 million on it but only after removing the tilt bob. Heh. I'm hard on it but not abusive. Built the cabinet to handle it.
[quoted image]
I'm thinking about building a third "Seawitch from scratch" but need another Bally head.
Your giving me thoughts, looks great!
Quoted from Malfeitor:Cool. I always thought it was saying "Subtle, aren't you." Slow makes more sense.
Been some discussion in the tech threads on how the speech chips can vary one to another and have subtle changes in output. Some will be slightly garbled, others clear as a bell. Aging caps and other board components can also impact output.
Quoted from vec-tor:Add also S&T can pickup radio stations too.
My friend sent me a video of Genie that would pickup a local radio station when the board was touched.
Quoted from Malfeitor:I've been looking for over 2 years for spares. Usually find one or two at PF swap meets. I have used 3D printers for 20 years in aircraft business for protos and the FDM printers probably won't have the strength or integrity to hold up to the abuse of a pop bumper and the clip ears will break immediately. SLA materials are getting better all the time and might be a better option. I have a carbon fiber printer at work that would probably hold up structurally however it's quite expensive to print on it and is only black (naturally...) That said, if you want to try it, I'll model one and send you an STL to test it on your printer. If there was a lot of interest for these, I could source making a soft injection die and shoot it with a 15-30% glass fill and would part last forever. Die charge would be around $3500 and be capable to inject around 250 max
I'm willing to give it a go with ABS that has been vapor treated, I think it would hold up.
Quoted from Heretic_9:But that might not be the part you were all referring to ?
No.
2 months later
Quoted from Jappie:I've seen Centaurs with animated GI on the entire playfield and Centaurs with animated GI only in the Queens Chamber and underneath the slingshots (and in the pop bumpers if they count as GI).
My Centaur II has the limited type GI, but I prefer the one that is completely animated.
Is this a setting? A malfunction? A difference in production? Software version maybe? Hope somebody can help me. Thanks!
The queens chamber and slings are controlled as "insert lamps" the rest of the GI can only flash on and off. If someone has bypassed the triac on the rectifier heatsink plate the GI will just stay on with no flashing.
Quoted from Jappie:Thank you, that makes sense! I'll check that triac out when I'm working on the machine.
Is this triac located underneath the playfield? Or on one of the main pcbs?
Attached to rectifier heatsink.
Quoted from Dakine747:I bypassed the triac shortly after I bought my Centaur. I couldn't handle the strobing effect in attract mode, especially after I converted the game to sunlight LED's.
I left my GI incandescent for that reason.
Quoted from Heretic_9:Have never noticed any flashing or strobe effect . . . but then the game is very seldom put into attract mode. (All the bulbs are standard. Never liked the artwork, and have no desire to call any more attention to it !)
incandescent GI.
Quoted from Jappie:A local seller has this Centaur playfield for sale. He claims it's an unused clearcoated original.
The devil is in the details: the lady to the lower left of the pops on this one has bare boobs.
Does anybody here know if this is indeed an original? If yes, what's the story behind it? If no, where does it actually come from?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
It has a ball track above the roll over lanes.
Quoted from Jappie:I'm staring at the picture right now. And although I'm not sure this playfield looks new, I can't find a ball track. Where do you see it?
I just compared it to a CPR playfield, trick of the light.
Doubt it is factory, has a heavy auto style clearcoat which you can see at the top left and the rollover stars. You can also see where the wood rails were stapled in and removed so it is at least 100% a used playfield.
NOT UNUSED.
Quoted from Grizlyrig:Looks good topless, I'd buy it.
I'd even hang it on the wall if not going in a machine.
-Mike
Depends on the price of course
There was a guy in Germany doing Xenon playfields with bare tits as well.
Quoted from Grizlyrig:I think it fits great. The Centaur artwork has always been unique. Not many artists would have taken the risk of black/white on a playfield back in the day.
Imagine if people couldn't get past the artwork and the sales of machine completely flopped. That would have been a huge loss on such a fantastic playing machine.
-Mike
I would have rather the bug eyes on the woman changed, genuinely creepy.
1 week later
Quoted from Heretic_9:Did anyone happen to record Faris' presentation ? If so, I'd be interested in hearing it.
Incidentally, in a game played the other day, a ball just happened to get caught as you see it in the attached pic. It never even struck any of the drops to cause this, but was just in the course of regular ball travel on the pf. I dealt with it as mentioned in Post #1893 above.
Again, WHAT "double ring config." is supposed to prevent this ??
[quoted image]
Set your drop stop heights.
Quoted from Heretic_9:They were installed by a very experienced tech. I think the heights when they pop back up are quite standard and as intended.
You're not listening.
Did he set the target height WHEN THEY ARE DOWN.
If not, that is a major reason why the ball is getting trapped. If the top of the target is below the playfield surface it creates a catch point for the ball.
And it is a common problem with new drop targets.
3 weeks later
Quoted from slochar:Nope just as annoying with incandescent.
Incandescent GI is much less seizure inducing on Centaur.
1 week later
Quoted from Joydivision:No, you only get the laugh when the orbs are hit out of sequence with Oliver's custom ROMs.
Stings when it happens too.
Quoted from Geocab:Sure beats the 7 word vocabulary of Gorgar. Amazing how things progressed in a couple of years.
I wish Flash Gordon was a bit more wordy frankly, the capability is there.
Quoted from Joydivision:I remember some discussion a few years ago about trying to determine who's voice was actually used for Centaur.
The speech is generated by the TI voice chip is it not? Not the same setup as Xenon where they actually used voice samples.
Quoted from Heretic_9:The reason any joy from this achievement is limited: because the score got rolled, the PREVIOUS OWNER'S GC Score REMAINS On Display ! Now that's annoying !
One of my peeves about playing Blackout. Every once in awhile I get a truly outstanding game and roll it and there is no indication on the HSTD
Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:I’m not familiar with the operating system on Centaur as I haven’t got my machine yet. But isn’t there a reset you can do to get rid of this high score?
Yes but many take it as a point of pride to beat former owners score.
I have a Xenon that the high score is 3.2 million, gotten close but still no dice beating it yet.
1 month later
Quoted from jibmums:Anyone here used the metal ball guide set from Mantis on their game? Looks like it's very high quality but I'm concerned about the fit. What are your findings on your machine, fits well? Needs a little work to fit? Needs so much work to fit that it's better to just stick with the originals?
Mantis kit is perfect, the guy did exceptional work
Quoted from Heretic_9:I did not see that set listing, but have put in the separate Mantis parts for KISS and Snack Bar. One spot I don't recall being mentioned for possible coverage (by Mantis or by Cliffy) is the VUK hole. In looking at mine, I see no wood issues at all. Perhaps this is not an issue for concern there ?
While not the right forum thread, I'm also wondering if the hole around and behind the idol drops on Williams IJ, which is otherwise concealed from view, may be in need of such protection ? In glancing over the Cliffy and Mantis offerings for that game, I failed to spot the appropriate parts.
https://mantispinball.com/product/centaur-6-piece-ball-guide-set/
I have a Mantis set I purchased two years ago, might sell might not. Have the last CPR silkscreen playfield and have not decided if I'm doing a scratch build or not.
Centaurballguide (resized).jpg
1 week later
Quoted from Zee:Who the hell ships a game with the legs on?
More often than you think, some people insist on it.
Quoted from vec-tor:The legs on the game are repro legs. PBR has them.
Williams, starting with High Speed, to add the column fluting to the legs.
The legs look correct aside from being chrome, they should be a silver/grey/charcoal.
Quoted from vec-tor:The legs are the correct style. But they are new, not 40 year old vintage...
The inside leg crimp thread stud gives it away.
I don't dispute that, the fact they are chrome is also a giveaway.
Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:thanks, Strange that the second switch is not documented and can't be found. I emailed. Marco, Pinball wizard, Action Pinball, and Planetary. Maybe someone will know?
It is nothing special, standard gold plated switch. I order some from marco a year ago.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:This has happened twice. And I’m not sure if I’m not doing something properly or the game is not playing correctly?
I get all 4 captive orbs lit and then the release power orbs light comes on above the flippers. Then I send the ball up and the magnet grabs it. At this point shouldn’t the 4 ball’s release to start the multiball? Or am I missing something? Mine the magnet drops the ball and nothing.
Yes, Multi-ball should start if you have 4 balls "loaded" the game is clearly seeing the switch strike as the magnet activates.
Is the release light on in front of the lane? And what happens under the same conditions if you "release" at the Queens chamber switch?
Quoted from hisokajp:you have to make sure release light is on, some times it is off, some times it alternates. test by completing the lower right bank of target in order, that should light it, then shoot the upper right stand up.
The magnet will not activate unless it is multiball ready if I remember correct.
1 month later
Quoted from Methos:I took a C2 PF and swapped into a C1 cab. Made the connector changes and all is good except for the lane change.
I know there is likely a wire that I need to reconnect but I'll be darned if I can find it. Any leads?
Thanks.
Down by rectifier board.
3 months later
Quoted from Startek2:so...what is the general consensus regarding the value of our original Centaur games? Will this make our pins more valuable or less? I am thinking it will stabilize the pricing. I have a nice refurbed Centaur and I was thinking of asking $6000 but now I am thinking maybe $7500....
Does not change my opinion a jot, mine isn't for sale.
Quoted from dung:Supply Vs Demand
The Supply is increasing. The demand more than likely has not.
Actually it is not. What Haggis is offering is not a "Bally Centaur" and I'd never own one.
Every singe game I have played with a "plastic playfield surface" like what Haggis is offering has played notably different than a traditional playfield and I'll not own one. Full stop.
Quoted from dung:Just because you care and want to make it a hill to die on does not mean everyone will.
I did clearly state it was my opinion and others feel the same.
Quoted from dung:If they want a brand new machine, they will. An original has 40 year old wiring. Can have original sockets which are not great. Can have original connectors where the plasticizer is leeching out onto the pins. Can have original boards with cold solder joints and failing electronics that can crop up randomly.
LOL.
40 year old game has stood the test of time with boards available from many vendors not to mention the originals are very rugged.; when the system running your Haggis pin dies will they be around to by a replacement in 40 years? 20? 10?
Putting a lot of faith in a start up that is already off to a very rough start.
Quoted from dung:Fixing original boards will become more and more difficult.
I do board repair for entertainment, the OEM Bally boards will be powering countless machines for decades when Haggis is gone.
Quoted from dung:The problem with these arguments is that the people trying to make them do so in a bubble. They act like they can take all the benefits of age, ie a built up knowledge base for repair, but then ignore all the downsides that come with age. 40 year old electrical components with questionable reliability, cold solder joints, tarnished legs on eproms, acid corrosion from poor battery placement, and obsolete parts that are going out of production soon or already have. You can rebuild a board and make it fairly reliable, no one here is stripping the board down to a pcb and rebuilding it. Things will fail at random due to age.
You will not keep it running indefinitely It takes 1 nla component to make that board a paperweight. It is is not a question of if, but when. gdonovan
claimed 40 years. Game will be over 80 years old by then. Don't know about you, but how many people are making new parts for 1940's electronics? That is the equivalent that we are talking about.
I say all this and 100 percent agree with everyone here saying they would rather have an original from a repair stand point. The Haggis game will be more reliable in the short term. It will be harder to repair, and down the road it will have less support by aftermarket solutions due to lower production. I do not agree on the long term (decades +) view that parts will always be available. I have been in the hobby long enough to have watched electrical parts that were readily available 10+ years ago to be impossible to find now. I have also watched aftermarket solutions come and go.
Every argument you put forth can be applied to Haggis which is in a far, far worse position due to the very small number of machines made and the dubious company future. Not to mention new boards are often IMPOSSIBLE to repair unlike older boards. Ask guys trying to reverse engineer Stern node boards that have locked firmware.
Start ups fail all the time and even well established companies like Stern will leave you hanging in the breeze after a period of time.
Try buying a Whitestone MPU.
The only argument you have seems to boil down to "Haggis is new thus better!" which as someone from the auto trade makes me laugh.
New is frequently WORSE.
Quoted from dung:Yes, new is better in terms of short term reliability.
What are the arguments that everyone is making for the originals?
Originals are robust and reliable. False. They have documented fixes, but have plenty of faults.
I have numerous machines that the boards have not been touched, I refute your statement just based on my own physical machines sitting 20 feet away.
Quoted from dung:I can fix it myself somehow translates into I can always fix it despite components being obsolete. No one here is rebuilding ic's. Speech chips are great example of this which why the only aftermarket board for s&t still available is using an mp3 player.
Clearly unaware that there is a board maker who is making new boards right now that use the original speech chips.
You PRESUME as to why the geeteoh were built & for sale. PRESUME.
Quoted from dung:Who is going to support geeteoh sound boards when he stops making them?
As an aftermarket board that doesn't follow the factory print really don't care. The board looks simple enough though I'd not lose any sleep either way.
Quoted from dung:Lastly don't preach to me about failed startups. I have owned alvin g, highway, Suncoast, and spinball. I bought all those games after the companies folded and am well aware of how to deal with it.
Reverse Cramer touch, good to know.
Quoted from dung:Are you talking about the myinballs squawk and talk out of Europe that hasn't been for sale for awhile due to, wait for it, a lack of chips? The one that is now on preorder for a redesigned version? That one? Happy to hear of another but to date that is the only one I have seen. Three years ago I was in the market because mine was missing from a project game and it was out of stock back then.
For some historical proof here is a discussion about it, 3 years ago discussing how it uses nla parts. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reproduction-bally-squawk-and-talk-board
As for your own limited experience good for you. Glad to hear the work and you never once have to fix anything, ever, because your magic 40 year old machines are perfect in everyway and could never do any wrong
*Edit*
applejuice replied to the thread I posted an hour after I posted this. Seems he does still have 4-5 boards left from the last batch he made. Odd, that he replied to a dead three year old thread he never bothered posting in back in the day, but does within an hour of me posting this... Also odd that his site showed it as out of stock, before I made my post (I looked) but now can be ordered. Either way, I was wrong you can currently get a S&T using original chips. Still going to stick with GPE's comment that it uses many nla parts three years ago, because of anyone on here GPE would have known how obtainable components are.
lol.
Quoted from KJL:One thing to try is to run the sound test (the switch on the upper left of the S&T Board) and see if you are getting all the sounds.
Start here.
If call outs are missing, possible an eprom is going south which is is easy fix.
2 months later
4 months later
Quoted from Billc479:This question has been discussed in this thread before and the conclusion is there never was a post for this.
Correct.
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