(Topic ID: 48888)

Centaur Club.....Members Only!


By vster23

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 10 days ago by Startek2
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#963 7 months ago

Can someone post a pics of J1 on the squawk and talk board? My new-to-me centaur has no sounds. My J1 looks pretty hacky. From the circuit diagram, I should see pins 16, 17, & 18 used, but I don't even seem to have wires for them. My J2s on squawk and talk and the say it again are pretty hacky too.

I wish there were wire colors in the diagram.

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#965 7 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Both of those connections are correct from the factory.
The connection to the say it again board has the gel in the connectors for the gray wires.
[quoted image]

Wow, that's ugly. Thought it had to be a hack, especially with the circuit diagram. Thanks for the confirmation, I'll start by replacing the connectors with like connectors then.

#966 7 months ago

Broken speaker wire brought sound fx back.

Shitty pots are killing speech, if I press the speech one Centaur talks to me.

J3 is not actually used.

Still missing my background drone. Anyone had sound fx, speech, but no drone?

#970 7 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Are all settings 16 and up set to 03 from the front door test button?

This! I missed the line in the manual about setting #18, thank you! No rebuild required at this time.

1 week later
#972 6 months ago

Let's talk flipper alignment. How do y'all have your flippers aligned? I just did a rebuild, but I feel like I'll never get enough power to get all the left drop targets, certainly not the left release.

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#974 6 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

Bally playfields have a little divot near the tip of each flipper. You align the centre (pointiest) part of the flipper tip to the divot.
See the example on a Medusa below:
You have your flippers set up past the divots such that flipping to the left drop targets is weaker.
[quoted image]

I put mine a little above the divots, so the inlane guide makes a straight line with the flipper. I'm used to wpc where the divots hold a toothpick that the flipper rests on while you tighten it all up. Will adjust this evening, thanks!

2 weeks later
#977 6 months ago

Am I hearing things, or is one of the call outs "screw off, you"?

#979 6 months ago
Quoted from semicolin:

You're hearing things. It's "Slow, aren't you?" You might need to turn down the reverb a bit.

I know he says "slow, aren't you" and "bad move human" when you hit rollover switches that are already lit. But there's another callout that seems to happen late in high scoring games. Maybe it's custom? I'll have to set up something to record. I'm 99% sure my Centaur tells me "Screw... off... you" occasionally.

Edit: I got a recording and I hear one sometimes and the other sometimes. It's totally the "slow aren't you" callout, but I think it's kind of a pinball version of Yanni / Laurel, helped along by the sharp sounds of drop targets and jets messing with the overall audio properties.

2 months later
#987 4 months ago

Has anyone ever had the "kick to playfield" for multi balls stop kicking? Mine stopped working 98% of the time (I can occasionally get it to kick once or twice in test, then it stops again).

So far I've:
- replaced connector J5, no change.
- replaced the coil, old one tests fine out of circuit.
- swapped transistor Q11 with Q12 to see if the problem would move but it didn't.
- Socketed and replaced U3

I've ordered replacement chips for U also but they haven't arrived yet, that's next on my list of things to do

Looking at the schematics, I think U2 is the last possible culprit. Wondering if there's anything else anyone thinks I should be looking at.

#990 4 months ago

Oh, I didn't look for cold solder, good idea, thanks, I'll do that next!

The good news is, it doesn't lock on, it just doesn't fire. I like the flipper eos idea.

#995 4 months ago
Quoted from jj44114:

- replaced connector J5, no change.
- replaced the coil, old one tests fine out of circuit.
- swapped transistor Q11 with Q12 to see if the problem would move but it didn't.
- Socketed and replaced U3
I've ordered replacement chips for U also but they haven't arrived yet, that's next on my list of things to do
Looking at the schematics, I think U2 is the last possible culprit. Wondering if there's anything else anyone thinks I should be looking at.
You have to go to switch test. All this other stuff was unnecessary.
Other than the Knocker, that solenoid circuit gets used less than any other. I doubt that any of the components are bad.

Ran what exists for a switch test today. Tests ok, I think. I could be missing something though, the trough does have a weird setup and the switch test is pretty rudimentary. So both actual trough switches seem to register fine. I don't understand the setup fully, with two balls on switches and two not, and a third switch that no ball will ever reach (maybe the trough gets 5 balls in a different game on this MPU?).

Also reflowed solder at J5 pins. Still no go.

U2 is my last hope (save me Bono!).

#997 4 months ago
Quoted from jj44114:

Test each switch with a ball. Does it close with a ball running past it? THE BALLS REACH ALL SWITHES AS THE RUN BY THEM.

All 3 register with a ball touching them. I guess the first one counts balls on entry to the trough?

#1000 4 months ago

The one at the eject point works too. I don't think it could be a switch issue, since the kick out cool should fire every time in test regardless of switches. Hoping it's u2. Otherwise I guess I'm looking at a broken wire that doesn't look broken, somewhere between board and coil.

#1002 4 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Don’t forget the driver board only controls the relay on the solenoid expander. The relay completes the circuit to fire the coil. It’s designed this way because the coil draws too much current and would overload the driver transistor. The relay can handle the extra current so it becomes the “driver”.
With the backbox open and the playfield up, ground the tab of every driver transistor until you find the one that controls the kicker (ignore this if you already know which one it is - sorry, I don’t have the means to look it up right now). Make sure the relay clicks every time you ground the tab. You may have to disconnect the coil to hear it. If that’s good, run the coil test and make sure the relay clicks in every cycle. If it does, then you know your problem is with the high current contacts in the relay, the board connector, or the wiring to the coil. If the relay clicks intermittently during the coil test, then it is driver related.

Oh will try this tonight, the relay doesn't appear on the board schematic. It's only for the kick out solenoid? If yes, then this sounds promising.

#1004 4 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Don’t forget the driver board only controls the relay on the solenoid expander. The relay completes the circuit to fire the coil. It’s designed this way because the coil draws too much current and would overload the driver transistor. The relay can handle the extra current so it becomes the “driver”.
With the backbox open and the playfield up, ground the tab of every driver transistor until you find the one that controls the kicker (ignore this if you already know which one it is - sorry, I don’t have the means to look it up right now). Make sure the relay clicks every time you ground the tab. You may have to disconnect the coil to hear it. If that’s good, run the coil test and make sure the relay clicks in every cycle. If it does, then you know your problem is with the high current contacts in the relay, the board connector, or the wiring to the coil. If the relay clicks intermittently during the coil test, then it is driver related.

This was it, thank you! Just a loose connector on the relay board, didn't even know it was part of the system.

1 week later
#1018 3 months ago

Any one know the part number(s) for the lock / cam / mechanism for the backbox? I have none of it, which bugs me a bit, and the manual doesn't identify parts besides electronic components.

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