(Topic ID: 48888)

Centaur Club.....Members Only!


By vster23

6 years ago



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  • 1,042 posts
  • 189 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Startek2
  • Topic is favorited by 66 Pinsiders

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#552 3 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

The wireform fell off this switch that is just at the front right edge of the playfield. Found the wire in the cabinet but no idea how it is supposed to interact with the ball. The position of the switch mounting does not seem to allow it to interact with any balls. I assume this is somehow for the multuball system. Anyone with a photo of the correct looking swtich and its wireform would be a hero to me.

Here's a couple of shots, hope this helps. You can also make your own wireforms using old springs.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/make-your-own-microswitch-actuator-wire

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IMG_8594 (resized).JPG

#559 3 years ago
Quoted from dtown:

I've wanted a Centaur for a long time.

Destroy Centaur

Quoted from dtown:

I even have "bad move, human" as my text tone on my phone.

No class human

Quoted from dtown:

Finally picked one up today at the York show.

Slow aren't you?

Quoted from dtown:

She needs a bit of work

Only single value

Quoted from dtown:

but the playfield was mylar'd so there's not too much wear and that's biggie for me.

Maximum orbian strength achieved!

Congrats on joining the club!

#565 3 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

Next, I ordered a 4" Pyle PLX42 speaker from Amazon. Was $19.00. I mounted it from the rear (neck) of the cabinet so it faces the air vent grill. I used 4" #6 machine screws, though 3.5" would have been better. I just split the audio output wires from the sound board between these two speakers, upper 4" and lower 6". The game sounds significantly better now. Not really a need for an audio balance. The balance is pretty much ideal as-is. I'd recommend this easy modification. The speech is much more understandable.

Nice. I'll have to give that a try.

#568 3 years ago
Quoted from Classic_Stern:

At the Texas Pinball festival you can here it in the lobby.!!

Yeah that was awesome. While everyone was loading in their games you kept hitting the flipper button to play the attract demo.

#576 3 years ago

Shouldn't need non-ghosting ones.

2 months later
#591 2 years ago

Is it just me or does that 4x decal at the bottom of the last pic look like a woman with her arm up over her head? (albeit gorilla arm)

#599 2 years ago

I would say give it a try with a LED. I put one in mine and it works fine, but not all LEDs are created equal.

3 weeks later
#640 2 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Were these similar to the small plastics right next to the flippers, but longer and more of a "J" shape? I have a pair of those, I always wondered what they were. They must have been reproduced at some point.

I wish I had a set of those. I'd like to make it harder by removing the bounce ins, but set the Guardian feature to launch a ball every time you complete it. Always seemed dumb to me that the feature lamp stays on after you collect it even though you have it set to one per ball.

1 month later
#678 2 years ago

It's game-specific and you have to look at the schematics. Medusa shows the jumper, Centaur does not, so yours should be fine.

2 months later
#696 2 years ago
Quoted from SilverballNut:

So probably be about six weeks before it's done since chroming is going to take a while.
The old playfield has been stripped and the new one is coming together.

Man I love that playfield. I asked Kevin to make me one in the latest batch, but he said no-go.

3 months later
#738 2 years ago
Quoted from SilverballNut:

Made me start thinking. Has anyone out mirror blades on their centaur? I'll have to see if they make them.

Nobody makes them for classic Bally single level games because there's only 1 inch of cabinet visible between the top of the rails and the playfield glass. Won't get much mirror effect, unfortunately.

1 week later
#745 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Can someone listen to this ^ sound file please and tell me if the sound effect at 11sec and again a few times at 21 to 24sec is normal?

Mine does that on occasion.

2 months later
#807 2 years ago
Quoted from RoyGBev:

Given that they were using a little TDA2002 8-watt amplifier on the S&T, the stock speaker is a good match.

If you want to use an aftermarket speaker setup, buy a speaker level converter and a cheap receiver. Pull the wires off the factory speaker and feed them into the converter, run RCA cables to the receiver, then run speaker wires from the receiver to your new speakers.

amazon.com link »

4 weeks later
#820 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Note: Bally drop targets are doubled. Scrutinize the game's flyer very carefully.

What are you referring to?

#823 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The rubber rings.

I don't remember any Bally drops double ringed. Usually creates awkward play when they are.

#825 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

That is because you probably do not have a Bally 1975 parts catalog.
Also, you probably did not go to the distributor shows back in 1980's when
Bally was still a business and could see a firsthand OEM product.

No just played hundreds of them in the arcades between 1975 and the late 90's.

2 months later
#842 1 year ago
Quoted from tominator:

My player 2 display just went squirely on my Centaur II.
Where do I start to troubleshoot this? It was working fine and the game hasn't moved...

Quoted from pinfixer:

Cold solder joints on the display header pins. Happens all the time. While you're at it do the rest as they'll be next.

^This....and define squirrely.

3 weeks later
#851 1 year ago
Quoted from Rat:

STILL trying to troubleshoot the crazy sound my Centaur sometimes makes that I linked to earlier, I have replaced all the boards with repros and it still does it so it must be wiring. I have been replacing diodes everywhere and rewiring new connectors in with no change until just now when I rewired a couple more connectors on the MPU board, not the sound is totally stuffed.
I thought I might have done a bad crimp but they seem ok, then I checked the schematic and on J3 on the MPU board I have a wire missing at position 12.
I have checked through the cab a couple of times and can't see it anywhere, I'm wondering if it was ever there on my game?
Could someone check their game please and tell me what this wire does and where it goes from the J3 as I am struggling to work it out on the schematic.
Pic of my connector and the schematic below

I heard the restored Centaur at TPF last weekend make the same sound and mine has made it on occasion too.

2 months later
#885 1 year ago
Quoted from mof:

Quick rules question: What are the best shots to take while in multi-ball? Is there any scoring benefit to being in multi-ball mode?
mof

There is no scoring benefit other than x number of balls bouncing around hitting targets.

Typically, it's such a flipper frenzy that you can't really aim for anything, but I shoot for drop targets. Bring orbs up to max and keep trying to launch balls as balls drain. Hopefully you can get the 1-4 targets in order and light the Release target for another big launch.

#887 1 year ago
Quoted from mof:

What does 1-4 in order do?

Lights the upper right release target.

7 months later
#924 9 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

I used a dye to change the start rollover from white to black.

That's a very subtle, yet striking customization. Looks great.

2 weeks later
#926 9 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Thanks. There are a lot of custom things going on with this machine:
Blacked out lockdown bar, side rails, shooter rod, and coin door. And some awesome coin plate inserts from ulekstore
[quoted image]
Shooter lane has been blacked out (and all other places that originally had wood showing)
[quoted image]
All stand up targets and star posts switched to black (along with the black star rollovers)
[quoted image]
I'm very excited about the apron cards I'll be making, as long as they turn out the way I envision them.

All great ideas. Nice job!

2 months later
#960 7 months ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I don't remember if CPR did one or two runs.

They did two runs.

If you remember, the first run had a couple "special" playfields where they did a base white layer over the entire surface. The end result was a true black/white/red playfield with the most noticeable difference being a white shooter lane.

The second run was much shorter, maybe 30 playfields. I believe they were just using up extra stock of inserts on hand. I think they did a small run of Xenon at the same time. I bought a playfield from this run and asked Kevin if there was any possibility of getting another "special" playfield made. He said the only reason they made them in the first place was because the wood was ugly and they needed to paint it. They had no plans to make any more like that.

1 week later
#968 6 months ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Still missing my background drone. Anyone had sound fx, speech, but no drone?

Are all settings 16 and up set to 03 from the front door test button?

2 months later
#989 3 months ago

Be sure to look at the board that controls it under the playfield (solenoid expander). It's common for them to have cracked solder joints on the header pins.

The design of the circuit makes me nervous. You can't see the coil from the top of the playfield, so when the circuit fails you have no idea the coil is locked on until you see smoke rolling out of the plunger area. Since the mech is essentially a sideways flipper, I replaced the coil with a flipper coil, wired in an EOS switch and mounted it on the bracket. Now if the coil locks on it will only energize the "hold" circuit instead of melting the coil.

#1001 3 months ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

The one at the eject point works too. I don't think it could be a switch issue, since the kick out cool should fire every time in test regardless of switches. Hoping it's u2. Otherwise I guess I'm looking at a broken wire that doesn't look broken, somewhere between board and coil.

Don’t forget the driver board only controls the relay on the solenoid expander. The relay completes the circuit to fire the coil. It’s designed this way because the coil draws too much current and would overload the driver transistor. The relay can handle the extra current so it becomes the “driver”.

With the backbox open and the playfield up, ground the tab of every driver transistor until you find the one that controls the kicker (ignore this if you already know which one it is - sorry, I don’t have the means to look it up right now). Make sure the relay clicks every time you ground the tab. You may have to disconnect the coil to hear it. If that’s good, run the coil test and make sure the relay clicks in every cycle. If it does, then you know your problem is with the high current contacts in the relay, the board connector, or the wiring to the coil. If the relay clicks intermittently during the coil test, then it is driver related.

#1003 3 months ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Oh will try this tonight, the relay doesn't appear on the board schematic. It's only for the kick out solenoid? If yes, then this sounds promising.

Basically, this circuit is a copy of the flipper circuit (sans cabinet switches. )

Yes it’s only for the kick to playfield solenoid since it’s the only coil that cannot be controlled directly by the driver transistor.

#1005 3 months ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

This was it, thank you! Just a loose connector on the relay board, didn't even know it was part of the system.

That’s great! Glad you didn’t have to pull any more chips.

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