(Topic ID: 48888)
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Centaur
Bally, 1981-
Centaur II
Bally, 1983
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2 years later
For anyone who is changing their bulbs, I found it to be much easier to access the 4 green arrow inserts that I initially thought.
Instead of removing the entire drop target mechanism, I realized I could just remove the coil bracket instead. I found it was much easier to access the head bolts with a small allen wrench with a philips head, instead of trying to get the socket wrench to catch the hex screw on the entire mech. Also no desoldering of any wires needed.
20200330_192108 (resized).jpg20200330_193915 (resized).jpg 3 months later
Centaur (original) owner here. Just gotta say there's something cool about the Centaur II cabinet. I dig the red displays, especially.
I think over time you'll see original Centaur II machines become harder to find as people choose to convert cabinets. I can imagine there may not be many survivors out there to begin with.
Centaur II and Eight Ball Deluxe LE would look really good next to each other.
Quoted from Tallon:Thought maybe I misread the post. Methos asked if anyone has swapped a centaur 2 playfield into a centaur one cabinet. That’s exactly what I did. It is only the lane change that needs to be changed in this instance. He didn’t ask about doing a conversion to a “bally style” cabinet. Some of us got a centaur 2 years ago and then recently acquired a cantaur 1 after doing our playfield swap already on the centaur 2. In this instance we don’t want to do another swap just to get the good playfield in the good cabinet.
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Love Flash Gordon. Always felt it was a nice companion piece to Centaur. I imagine you think the same?
5 months later
1 month later
2 months later
Original linear mechs on mine and rear legs not exactly maxed out but enough slope to have a good speed. I think I was able to hit the target with a double queens chamber shot but it was a momentum shot with the ball coming at a high speed. Otherwise I dont think I'd be able to hit with anything other than a reactionary shot at just the right time. Usually it's just a direct shot into captive ball.
1 month later
Quoted from nibre:I need to remove the top plastics but I can't reach the screws. Therefore, I have to move the playfield. How do I move it to the place below? Do I have to lift it while it's vertical or do I drag it towards me when it is horisontal? Or is there another way?
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Since your playfield is already in the vertical position, what you want to do is lift it up just enough to where it clears the hinges and then place it into the inside cabinet rails so you can then tilt it back to the headbox.
To play it safe for the first time, i'd recommend finding another person and lift the playfield up from each side. When you are ready to set the playfield back down, you will both have to make sure it finds the hinges inside the cab.
4 months later
Quoted from topkat:Just got mine set up. How far do the multi balls go when ejected. Mine barley make it out of the lane.
There is a micro switch under the pf on the wire ramp , where the balls travel to trap door, and mine sits pretty high. I wonder if that got bent and is slowing the balls down
Thanks for any input
Could be. I'd also check the main mechanism for any issues like a bent or loose arm on the ball launch. Those things usually need adjustment because you have to always be careful it doesn't hit the shooter rod when moving the playfield.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Dakine747:Okay, so I’ve got this entire playfield tricked out in Comet LED’s. 2SMD frosted for GI, and 2SMD clear (color-matched) for inserts. Looks like a million BUCKS, however…..the four green arrows at the 1-4 drop targets are not swapped due to the fact those li’l buggas are covered by the drop target assembly! UGH!! I’ve never had to remove one before, but it seems I have to, to get to those four lamps. Can anybody help me understand how I begin to remove it??? Am I gonna have to desolder and take it apart piece-by-piece??? Any advice or best practices MOST welcomed!! Thank you!!
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See post #1075 I made in this thread. Hope it helps!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/centaur-clubmembers-only/page/22#post-5565110
2 months later
Quoted from gdonovan:And one of the connector has a point on it right?
Yes
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Quoted from gdonovan:I would have rather the bug eyes on the woman changed, genuinely creepy.
That's what makes it awesome. I love these Ballys that feature cool designs of semi-humanoid characters.
8 months later
Quoted from dung:The original boards did not stand the test of time. Sockets failed. Chips failed. Roms failed. The only reason you say they are rugged is because repair is very well documented. That coupled with parts remaining available unlike allied liesure people do not shy away from older ballys.
Components for 1970s electronics have been drying up for years and is well documented on here. Fixing original boards will become more and more difficult. That leaves the aftermarket which is not something anyone can predict. There was a time when there weren't any options for Bally. There may very well be a time when that is the case once again.
If I want something I know I can fix in 40 years I will go buy an EM. For anything SS you are rolling the dice when it comes to decades in the future.
Your post reads like post apocalyptic dialog from a Terminator movie.
I'm taking a real risk here keeping around this old Centaur.
Better sell it and pay twice the price for a NIB one, ya know, for peace of mind or something.
6 months later
Quoted from Doctor6:So I have some weird lighting issues.
A few of my insert lights don't work. Period. 3 to be exact.
My pop bumper lights: one is super dim, and one flat out doesn't work, ever No matter what led or bulb I put in, the one is barely getting juice.
Dumb question, but the sling lights. They seem to almost never be on. I assume this is normal? During ball three they just strobe. Is this right?
Slings only flash during idle/attract mode and stay on solid during play. When the ball hits the sling the bulb should briefly go dark then relight. They should not strobe during single ball play. They stay this way also during multiball while the rest of the GI will flash.
I would follow a wiring diagram just to be sure everything is where it should be with good connection. Or could be power supply issue. Lamp driver board may also be worth replacing or need repair. I did that for mine because of some problems with various insert lamps.
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