Centaur
Bally, 1981
Centaur II
Bally, 1983You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Sheev_Palpatine.
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Centaur feature lighting issues. The lights are really dim with the board hooked up. The lights are too bright when the board is unplugged. Volts run 7.2 which is too much and burns out the LED’s. Put incandescents in and they are bright but the 20 amp fuse blows with the aux board plugged in.
7D42A3B1-1802-4046-A282-CF5AA44AC589 (resized).jpegQuoted from Joydivision:Check the voltage at TP1 on the rectifier board which should be 6.5V, if higher there, it could be rectifier R2 ceramic resistor that has gone open - check for 25ohm resistance across R2.
I have seen this before with a failed R2 measuring close to 8V at rectifier TP1, all incandescents were burned out
Plugging in the AU lamp driver just adds more active lamps which may be why the fuse is blowing with more current draw with that voltage & not blowing when unplugged as less lamps in total are lit.
Awesome thank you! I will pass this along to the guy who is working on it and have him give that a look! He thought with the triac disconnected the machine to be not blowing the fuse? Any suggestions on this? Or still the same issue?
Quoted from Joydivision:R2 is just one possible cause worth checking/eliminating. Not sure on the Triac, would have thought the 20A fuse would have blown both with or without the AU lamp driver board installed if the Triac was shorted. usually a very robust part unless lugs get physically broken. If it does end up needing replacing, this is a suitable Triac sub.
NTE5673
ebay.com link: itm
Ok thanks this was his reply:
If the triac is connected and the aux driver is not, the feature lights work fine and doesn’t blow a fuse. And vice versa, triac connected and aux driver not. If they are both connected, the 20 amp fuse blows shortly after and the feature lights don’t work correctly. Trying the different used aux driver boards I had on the shelf, changed how the feature lights acted, but eventually blew the fuse 20 amp fuse
Quoted from Joydivision:That sounds more like a partial short somewhere, good idea to look around check for shorts. Start with the braid & then inspect other lamp connections/sockets.
Ok thank you!
Quoted from Joydivision:That sounds more like a partial short somewhere, good idea to look around check for shorts. Start with the braid & then inspect other lamp connections/sockets.
Yep great job! He found it! Thank you!
D3891B50-E387-451A-A00E-856E9037C2AC (resized).jpegQuoted from Joydivision:You're welcome, great to hear it got resolved!
Yeah between you and 
vec-tor he was able to find it. He thought it was a board issue but both you outstanding people came up with the same answer to the problem. Very thankful to have both your help!
If my MPU is good. anything good reason other than the optional setting to free play if I upgrade to an alltek?
Im going to swap the power supply board.
The lamp driver already has a new board. The S&T and reverb have been gone through.
Have no idea on the driver board. Hopefully the caps have been replaced at least once.
If my original MPU is good. Would there be a good reason other than the optional setting to free play if I upgrade to an alltek?
Also I thought I read back in the thread, there is an actual home rom chip you swap out easily that upgrades the game play?
**I realized my original post was worded poorly.
Quoted from MikeS:One way to greatly improve the rule-set on your Centaur is to install the special "Home Roms". It turns a really good rule-set into a great! It makes the following changes and can be downloaded from the following site:
http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_soft.html
if dip switch 25 = on and dip switch 26 = on freeplay is enable: decrease credits not lower then 01
coin 3 works now same as coin 2, dip 17 - 20 has new meaning
dip17 = off, flashing 50k and getting 50k for hitting orbs in sequence
dip18 = on , erase bonus after one ball total
dip19 = off, don't give power orb during multiball
if orb targets are out of sequence laught (but only if O was the first target you drop)
Dual target hits for ORBS target enabled (we wait two flashes until we detect an out of sequence error...)... change speech:
When (no multiball is running) or (multiball is running an dip 19 = on) and all ORBS dropped in sequence we say:
"Sequence completed activate Power Orb"
otherwise if all orbs are not dropped in sequence we say "energize power orb"
If multiball is running and all ORBS are droppend in sequence (with dip19 = off) we say "Sequence completed activate Power Orb"
if Multiball is running and all orbs are dropped not in sequence (withdip19 = off) we say "completed"
Installation notes:
read the file readxxx.txt file
create (based on your orignal roms) customs roms
Burn the two files on 2732 eprom
After power on you will see the version number in the player one display.
This is what I read or what I meant when I was talking about home roms. I read this awhile ago so I knew I had read something on home roms. Anyhow after re-reading this it seems super confusing and over my head.
Quoted from Heretic_9:Putting things in perspective, I see here
https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/centaur/scores
that a Pinside member reached 21 Mil., and that was *on a 3-ball game* !
This also tells me that there must be a 8-digit display part option for this game. Might want to consider that, depending on what it would cost. (But does that also require any board changes ?) Then I could replace that previous owner's GC score.
I’m not familiar with the operating system on Centaur as I haven’t got my machine yet. But isn’t there a reset you can do to get rid of this high score?
Quoted from gdonovan:Yes but many take it as a point of pride to beat former owners score.
I have a Xenon that the high score is 3.2 million, gotten close but still no dice beating it yet.
Yeah I can see that. If I buy a used game and the person didn’t reset the scores before I received it I always do it myself. To each their own. But if there wasn’t a high score rest, it would drive me crazy lol so good to know I can rest it.
On a side note:
I sold a Doctor who to a guy who just wanted to flip it. He posted the game on pinside and I had to laugh. Some of the photos had my high score and initials on it.
Quoted from Geocab:This arrived today.
[quoted image]
It'll be months before I put it in though. Game is too fresh to not play it right now and it's playing really well.
The existing one isn't too bad anyway besides the yellowing.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Just curious if it's normal for the back side to be bare wood? Should the holes that are marked be drilled already?
The only other playfield I've gotten was my Firepower, but that was a few years ago. The back is gray and the holes were started.
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Recognized these photos from a recent sale on pinside. Your seller marked the machine not sold to a pinsider
I was never a fan of shipping like this for that reason. But over the last few years I think I have shipped 10 machines with sti never been a problem. I was hesitant with this machine to use sti and I was going to have it palleted up…. And of course I don’t have any backup legs right now.
Quoted from Zee:When I ship a game I build it into a crate in the back of my truck and then drive it to the shipping company. Example photos attached
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wow, that’s awesome, back 20 years ago I shipped some games like that. A moving company in town used to cut down old vaults for like $100 bucks.
Quoted from gdonovan:The legs look correct aside from being chrome, the should be a silver/grey/charcoal.
At this point I would take green legs with polka dots on them!
Anyway the machine was rebuilt and hopefully it boots up later when I try it. (It’s super cold here so I need to let the machine temp adjust)
01D39D7B-F851-47C2-B64B-8FDACF85D662 (resized).jpeg0BAD9DAC-4243-4299-98F5-A273BC7562B3 (resized).jpeg55066648-A9B0-418B-9B52-EC4DF839B5FF (resized).jpeg5A700C6C-8EA8-4C3F-BB82-81020D030B06 (resized).jpeg6AA55783-3012-4165-91C7-A09CBEDC881B (resized).jpegC5144F91-C983-4ABA-BC15-3803316ED1FD (resized).jpegD67D6446-DF0B-4453-AAC8-FAD3C10A3801 (resized).jpegQuoted from monkfe:Got to get some of these Purdy coil wraps for those drop targets banks
[quoted image]
Yeah, where did you find them?
Quoted from Geocab:Sucks about the shipping issue, hopefully the legs are all that's damaged. Nice that you got a rebuilt game!
Thanks!
Yeah I just fired it up and it seems to be working ok. I have only played these and never owned one before.
Couple things I have noticed off the bat. When the game is on from time to time I hear static coming from the speakers. Also when you start a game, Right away and before I believe the game would get to a replay level the knocker goes off? Not sure if that is a malfunction or not? My right flipper is not firing at times but I have not had a chance to inspect the switch. Sometimes the orb drops don't drop when the are hit at a high speed straight on. But all and all it seems to be functioning pretty good.
Quoted from Heretic_9:Doesn't Sti = Beltman = NAVL -- different names for the same shipping outfit, over time ?
I think I've used NAVL about 10 times myself, most often going coast to coast. In each case, the legs were ON. Head sometimes Up, sometimes Down. If the latter, something cushioning between the head and the sliding glass. Extensive use of thick cardboard covering all outer edges + some plastic wrap all around. Coincidentally, the one occasion where I had any conspicuous or significant damage was on the shipping of my Centaur. Cabinet damage plus some bent metal framing that had to be repaired, which got covered by insurance. The only insurance claim for shipping pins that I've had to date. Almost worse was the backglass loose and barely hanging on by amazing luck ! How it never fell off to shatter in that condition I'll never know. So -- if you choose to look at it that way -- this adds up to a 90 % good results batting average in my working with them. But I'm not aware of any clearly better option . . . .
Meanwhile, I think those shipments, historically at a tad under $500., are now more like $700. (?)
And I'm gonna say it again: to ship ANY valuable pin you cared about in this season, with the prevailing road and weather conditions -- well, if that's your plan, you (Generic You: Anyone, Everyone) ought to have their head examined, as they used to say. The fact of insurance is just not commensurate with the risk.
Yeah. CRST-STI-Beltmann NAVL are all owned by Beltmann.
This pin was ordered in OCT and ran into so many various delays. I couldn’t very well tell the guy. Well it’s winter now just hold on to it for me for the next 7 months. Besides I had zero basis not to trust STI with this shipment. I have trusted them to ship so many other pins (even in the winter) and had nothing but great experiences. All carriers have damaged pins it’s just the luck of the draw which pins get damage by which carrier. Heck stern is shipping $14,000.00 Bond LE’s (1000 made)and they are going to be shipping $20,000.00 Bond SLE’s (500 in production) in the middle of winter. That’s 1500 in just high end Bond pins they are shipping this winter.
Going forward tho, I agree with you; Im probably not going to be shipping pins in winter anymore. Honestly winter had nothing to do with this damage, it was carelessness.
Can someone please send me some pics of the dual leaf flipper switch (right side)
Mine is wired backwards so the first part of the switch is doing the lane change and the second part of the switch is the flipper. Also I’m not sure if this is the correct switch for the machine?
078137DD-4209-45EA-9FF0-15A76C3B596E (resized).jpeg1590D72F-70C1-4FB1-BC4E-A5780C820816 (resized).jpeg918FCE36-19D7-48DA-B543-A5DD8C9FA085 (resized).jpegB1E2A1EA-9D2F-4E4E-A500-BFD7281674C4 (resized).jpegDC9F93A5-D70D-4A37-A994-4248B5E03B39 (resized).jpegQuoted from EvanDickson:I think those look the same. Is there a connector pinning issue maybe?
Thank you for sending those. Yeah they look the same? So maybe it is pinned wrong at the driver board?
Quoted from vec-tor:Broken switch stack end.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-916-S
Cabinet switch are in correct positions.
1st contact switch = large contacts controls flipper assembly.
2nd contact switch = small gold plated contacts control lane change.
Id just like to replace the entire switch. However I can't find the exact dual switch. there are similar ones but I am worried about alignment if it is not the same.
Here are some comparisons and then there is the single. Does centaur stack two singles together? It is strange they don’t have an exact replacement part?
1EF817F7-3895-42EE-8726-4745CD45031E (resized).jpeg650043AC-F0ED-443A-815C-34D7BCA12FB0 (resized).jpegEC5EE5A5-7F6A-46B3-A8A4-FAA8965F861D (resized).jpegQuoted from vec-tor:The cabinet flipper switches are two completely different assemblies put together.
Bally parts manual list the general flipper cabinet switch as
#ASW A1041 = heavy duty contacts.
The lane change switch part number is not documented.
thanks, Strange that the second switch is not documented and can't be found. I emailed. Marco, Pinball wizard, Action Pinball, and Planetary. Maybe someone will know?
Quoted from gdonovan:It is nothing special, standard gold plated switch. I order some from marco a year ago.
What is the part number please
Quoted from vec-tor:O.K. I did some research.
Bally lane-change cabinet switch is like part #ASW-A10-156
As used on Fireball II.
[ This is the closest to the part #ASW-A10-056 ]
#ASW-A10-056 is given as first used on Skateball game #1210
Awesome now I will try and see who sells one!
Quoted from vec-tor:FWIW
Lane-Change Sw Breakdown
ASW-A10-0056:
consists of-------
E-00166-0047 ( 2 ) contact gold plate
M-01651-0012 ( 2 ) 3/16 O.D. tubing
M-01656-0002 ( 1 ) sep... SA-2
M-01656-0003 ( 1 ) sep... SA-3
M-01655-0002 ( 2 ) 1/16 sep tight S-2 [ this part is always breaks on the switch stack]
--------
P-08004-0520 ( 1 ) leaf SL9-20
P-08004-1620 ( 1 ) Idler leaf
P-08004-3320 ( 1 ) swtch leaf
P-08004-0110 ( 1 ) terminal Y-10
P-08004-0914 ( 2 ) insulator leaf FPH-14
https://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=SW-1A-120
or
https://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=180-5054-00
Quoted from slochar:That's doesn't look like the right one if it's a cabinet switch that's the one for the flipper mech itself. I think Sheev_Palpatine showed his in the cab.
Yeah I think we figured it out in the other thread.
This has happened twice. And I’m not sure if I’m not doing something properly or the game is not playing correctly?
I get all 4 captive orbs lit and then the release power orbs light comes on above the flippers. Then I send the ball up and the magnet grabs it. At this point shouldn’t the 4 ball’s release to start the multiball? Or am I missing something? Mine the magnet drops the ball and nothing.
I guess I need some clarification on how the code properly operates before I can test? I know the orange release (upper right) will go on and off while the captive orbs and the release lights stay on. So I was confused why that upper right light (orange release) goes on and off. And why the magnet grabs the ball but no multiball starts? Thanks for the help, I just need clarification to see if something is malfunctioning?
need help adjusting drop targets. mine drop if you touch them with your finger. But alot of direct straight on hits brick off them. (orbs targets)
on my 1234 targets. they play pretty good but then after awhile 123 fall after a few games when a new ball is in play.
Quoted from vec-tor:Check the shape of the target. Are they getting bowed shape?
Orbs targets, how forward are the targets from the back rubber rings?
They are new.
77174AA3-F670-4F3B-A532-7382053E1710 (resized).jpegHas anyone tried to make the tension on the springs a little more on the orbs targets? I’m only spitballing here, but maybe if they pulled down a little harder? My guess is that the drop targets get hit so hard and bounces off the target behind it. It then goes back to the same position? I don’t know, something I’m contemplating. But I won’t bother if this has been tried.
Quoted from mr2xbass:The springs' function is not only to assist gravity in pulling the targets down, but also to pull them forward when they reset. If you increase the spring tension, it will pull them back forward before having a chance to fall. -IME
PinMonk used this technique to fix the bricking issues on the 3 bank drop targets on James Bond 007. I have been thinking of trying this on centaur. I would think it would have the same effect on a Bally but maybe not. Hence my reluctance on trying.
Quoted from PinMonk:It really depends on what the Centaur problem is. If the target is bouncing back to the shelf before it drops then this would help. If you're concerned about cutting, you could always buy a couple more springs and use those to experiment.
On my machine it seems like the spring tension is not that strong. My theory was, the drops when hit hard straight on we’re bouncing back and resetting on the ledge before the spring had enough force to pull the drop down. So when I saw your post in the bond thread I was thinking this may be the same situation. But yeah I should get some replacement springs if this doesn’t help. Good thinking.
Quoted from FatPanda:You can always clip the springs a few loops smaller to increase the pull. I've done this many times on "spent" springs. Just clip to where the spring coils tightly again and you should be good. Just don't go ham on it and clip it in half.
Thank you!
Is it a pain to adjust the height of the drop targets? I have one drop in the queens chamber that is a little low and sometimes the ball gets hung up.
Quoted from ROMM:Not hard at all. There are several adjustment screws on the side next to the target switches. Note the arrow pointing to one in the pic. Hardest part for some is getting the playfield up and out to lean it against the backbox. I've done by myself about 50 times already in the past few days lol.[quoted image]
Ok thank you very much for the pic! Yeah not the best design for working on the playfield. Lifting that out by yourself and getting it on that cradle and back sucks.
I replaced my MPU with an ultimate MPU board. I have speech but no music. the squawk and talk was playing music and speech before and now it stopped playing the background music with the ultimate board hooked up? I am wondering if I have a jumper wrong?
Quoted from Dakine747:Have you tried the self-test button adjustment?[quoted image]
Yeah thank you! Section 18 in the menu was set to the wrong setting I changed it to 03 and the music came back on! Thanks again!
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