(Topic ID: 48888)

Centaur Club.....Members Only!

By vster23

10 years ago


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  • 2,325 posts
  • 294 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 38 hours ago by Gotpins
  • Topic is favorited by 113 Pinsiders

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#74 10 years ago
Quoted from HPR:

Here's mine, i'm very proud to be in that club. A true classic from the greatest arcade era !!
Restored with CPR repro playfield, plastic set. Near perfetc backglass with few LED.
Red incandescent lights at the Queen chamber and target 1-4. Red shield for the score display, look superb in person

The "Comb" getting some love. I like it.!!!!....Nice line of 3 beauties....

1 year later
#340 8 years ago
Quoted from Chippewa-Pin:

I'm sure some of you will laugh at this, but I just put up my best score so far on my newly acquired Centaur. 5.2M I'm an average pinball player (at best) so I was pumped!

You have to fix your outlane posts and make it so about 10% return. That is why in the plastic set they have those return lanes that remove the gate. Home ROM's will reduce this down to where 2 mil is a good score. The other benefit is no bonus hold over. I could do 4-7 million plus way too many times so I had to change something. From a classic Bally perspective the game is too easy with the base rules. I was going to sell mine. Now I am keeping it.

1 month later
#347 8 years ago
Quoted from galaga50:

Can somebody please take a photo of the plastics that go immediately next to the flippers?
I have the plastic, but it is there another piece underneath it?
Newer pins have metal guide rails 'stacked' under the plastics.
My machine is in pieces, and from the images on the web I cannot see what is underneath it.
Thanks in advance!

I made metal pieces and added the plastic on top. Works out much better.

#350 8 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I have an original PF in my Centaur. I've always noticed that the outlane action is different on left and right.
On left, I can rarely save a ball
On right, I can frequently save a ball.
I took a CLOSE look today, and noticed that the post on the left side is 2mm or so to the left of where I think it should be (compared to the post on the right). I'll soon be filling and drilling and moving the post a hair to the right. The result will be a MUCH better playing game. It's a REAL drag to have the ball rarely save on the left side.
Has anyone else noticed that one side doesn't ball-save as well as the other? Have you taken a careful look to see the location of the post?
-mof
(I'll add pics when I improve it)

Gonna look at this today....

2 weeks later
#388 8 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Wow - u taught me a nice lesson -- always bring a nice 2' x 2' sheet of (cloth/thin bubble wrap?) and put it behind the glass before traveling with a backglass...
-mof

Take the display's out also. Then lock in the light board and tighten it. Check for anything that could potentially scratch the glass. Put the glass in with a thin piece of mylar covering the back and lock it in. Do this everytime I transport a game now.

1 year later
#566 7 years ago

This is what I have in mine with a 105 Watt amplifer. I also have bullet tweeter. I went with the 8 inch and have a friend who did the 10 inch. Its amazing but you can blow apart the game. They make this in a 8,10, 12 inch with the cross over and coaxial tweeter that screws into the back of the woofer. ITS INCREDIBLE. At the Texas Pinball festival you can here it in the lobby.!!

http://www.parts-express.com/eminence-beta-10cx-10-coaxial-driver--290-502

#569 7 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

I'll never understand why they only put that one 6" speaker in the base cabinet with such a cool sound board being used. It makes no sense at all.

Yea, 8 is as small as you want to go. The eminience can handle 200-300 watts and puts out somewhere north of probably 112 to 117 db near the machine. ITS CRAZY!!! But you will damage the game for a long period.

#571 7 years ago

There is a couple of aftermarket boards. I have a reverb board and Say it again and they have amazing noise levels. that is what I use in mine. I forgot about that. Kept the originals but the repro boards have a very low noise floor. You have to have that for 110 plus db

4 years later
#1194 3 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Made a little something I thought a few of your owners may be interested in.
Looking for that last-minute Christmas gift for your pinhead friend? The perfect stocking stuffer? Or just looking to treat yo' self! Check out our latest pin series ORBS! Available on my Etsy Shop. They just got delivered today, photos of the actual pins coming later today. But if you want to get your orders in ASAP so I can get them shipped out for holiday delivery please do so!
https://www.etsy.com/listing/922720023/orbs-pin-series?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=pinball+pins+orbs&ref=sr_gallery-1-1&organic_search_click=1

Awesome.....

4 weeks later
#1211 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballdork:

Hey all, i'm looking to eliminate the playfield GI flashing during attract mode, It bothers my wife and i'm not a fan of it either. I realize that bypassing it will eliminate the lights flashing during multiball.
To allow the GI flash during multiball, i was thinking that I could put in a switch triggered by the multiball launcher arm, so when the arm is in motion (not at home) the switch would open the circuit to briefly turn off the GI.
Any tips on how to bypass so the Gi so the GI is still switchable??
Thanks, Glenn

If you look there is a relay that controls this. You need to by pass this. I don't have mine set up. Yup... you can't have it both ways unless you add another circuit in front of the relay to trigger only during multiball. I think the signal is the same to activate the relay.

#1214 3 years ago
Quoted from RoyGBev:

The relay you're looking at turns the multiball launcher coil on and off. The GI in Centaur is not switched through a relay, but is controlled by a triac that is in turn controlled by one of the lamp driver SCRs.
It is easy to bypass the triac, so that the playfield GI is on whenever the game is turned on. But if you do that, the GI will not flash during multiball.
There are pinsiders who modify the original code in these games. One of them could probably easily make the change you want. Then you'd just have to burn the new EPROMs (or have someone do it) and install them.

Oh yea, It's the Triac on the top of the bottom plate. My bad but thanks for the reminder. If you bypass yup it hits both features.

#1215 3 years ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

This was a thought I had as well as far as a possible solution. I know there is at least one widely-used "home-rom" version out there (never used or seen it in use myself), but in its readme file where all the changes/additions are listed, this sadly is not one of them.
But yeah, it's completely annoying and distracting to be playing a machine next to a Centaur if the Centaur is not being played.

Do you have access to the Home ROMS readme file ? Or link

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