need help adjusting drop targets. mine drop if you touch them with your finger. But alot of direct straight on hits brick off them. (orbs targets)
on my 1234 targets. they play pretty good but then after awhile 123 fall after a few games when a new ball is in play.

Check the shape of the target. Are they getting bowed shape?
Orbs targets, how forward are the targets from the back rubber rings?

They are new.

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Welcome to Bally Bricking. Ideas are being worked on to help with this.

Has anyone tried to make the tension on the springs a little more on the orbs targets? I’m only spitballing here, but maybe if they pulled down a little harder? My guess is that the drop targets get hit so hard and bounces off the target behind it. It then goes back to the same position? I don’t know, something I’m contemplating. But I won’t bother if this has been tried.

Are the rubber rings 3/4" and not 1"
B-S target side could be moved back a smidge.
O-R target side could be moved forward a smidge.

if all fail, shave some of the back of the target so there is more "room" for it to get pushed back when hit and drop down-

I have black ORBS and 1234 targets on my Centaur II. Mechs were cleaned before installation and hardly any bricking. How random is this problem?

got a centaur ii at a bar I tech for. its now become brick walls. other than just vigorously cleaning the mech, any other secret solutions out there? in order to achieve orbs I have to get side to side action vs just hitting them head on.

I am still in need of the curved part of the upper playfield trough. This is the part where the ball kicker passes through. Does anyone have one that they would like to sell? Thank you!

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I just got all my Centaur and other parts back from the plater. I could probably 3D print a replacement part if you don't find an original. Plenty of room behind to make a suitable plastic part.

Glad to say that I've not encountered this "bouncing off" problem. The drop targets can break after ~ 2 - 3 years of use -- I've replaced all of mine, over the last 8 months or so. (When replacing a couple of them, all of the same age, it seemed like I might as well have the full set replaced at the same time.) Sets of these are not inexpensive, and I noted that my tech had some difficulties re the effort involved in positioning and replacing them correctly. At the same time, he addressed the proper target height and added backing for them that has been recommended here. That fixed any balls getting stuck on top. Pretty smooth sailing for the drops since then.

best look through ebay or put an ad on Pinside market place for something like that imo-

I don't have one I can sell, but I can tell you what I'd do in your situation:

I would make one out of paper, then take it to a sheet metal shop and have them make one.
All they would need is the paper pattern and that photo. Bring it home, test fit. If it needs modification that cannot be done at home, take it back and have the shop modify it.

Extra credit:
Have some extras made and sell them

Extra Extra credit:
Make patterns of all those pieces and have them made as a set and then sell those. It could finance the whole project!

The springs' function is not only to assist gravity in pulling the targets down, but also to pull them forward when they reset. If you increase the spring tension, it will pull them back forward before having a chance to fall. -IME

PinMonk used this technique to fix the bricking issues on the 3 bank drop targets on James Bond 007. I have been thinking of trying this on centaur. I would think it would have the same effect on a Bally but maybe not. Hence my reluctance on trying.

It really depends on what the Centaur problem is. If the target is bouncing back to the shelf before it drops then this would help. If you're concerned about cutting, you could always buy a couple more springs and use those to experiment.

On my machine it seems like the spring tension is not that strong. My theory was, the drops when hit hard straight on we’re bouncing back and resetting on the ledge before the spring had enough force to pull the drop down. So when I saw your post in the bond thread I was thinking this may be the same situation. But yeah I should get some replacement springs if this doesn’t help. Good thinking.

You can always clip the springs a few loops smaller to increase the pull. I've done this many times on "spent" springs. Just clip to where the spring coils tightly again and you should be good. Just don't go ham on it and clip it in half.

Thank you!

My ORBS targets have had double springs on each target since I picked up the game a year and a half ago. Haven’t had an issue with bricking, ever. They drop perfectly, fast or slow hit. The springs that are the more silver colored ones seem to be a higher tension than the darker ones.

I’m an if-it-ain’t-broke-don’t-fix-it kinda guy! LOL

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That is interesting I could give that a try too. Whatever fixes it.

ended up putting smaller rubbers behind stand ups targets and kinda adjusted them back to give more room for the target to bend when hit. I have had zero issues with bricking since.

I have a nicely restored Centaur with colored back glass and playfield for sale. Shipping is not a problem.

Machine - For Sale

Centaur Custom Color Version Restored Featured Archived

Fully restored (full original status) - “I’m selling this custom Centaur pinball machine. New CPR colored version playfield. New CPR colored version back glass. Basically everything on the Playfield, his brand new, i...”

2023-03-14

Lake Elsinore, CA

SoCalPinballs

6,995

Archived after: 7 days

Viewed: 1881 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

Contributed to Pinside

Hi all,
Can I join?

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Late last year I grabbed this Centaur which had been sat stored for around 30 years. It had no legs and was missing the SDB and power board in the backbox.
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Until a couple weeks ago the cab was stored at a friends who had helped us pick it up. We took the backbox as it would fit in our car and I could then work on cleaning and checking the remaining boards.
With it being home now I've finally started work on restoring it.

I've already got two replacement boards from the Nvram, SDB minus the high power as ive got some red LED displays.

The game was sitting in its bottom for decades, in a damp environment. So it was crumbling away and even had a thumb sized hole in it. That's just been resolved by a friend

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(I know the battons with gliders on aren't original but I thought it's a good addition to keep the bottom nice)

When I say restore, I don't mean new cab decals and playfield. I just want to get it cleaned up, replace broken and worn parts and get it playing well.
(If I love it I'll look into going further in future)

I'm in the UK so don't have the wealth of parts shops you guys have. I've already done a big order from Bestofpinball, containing new drop targets, star posts and general bits.
Have a new CPR plastic set
And just general orders as I go.

I didn't have a chance to test the game at all as the head was missing hinges and even the T nuts and when I got the new t nuts I'd already taken the pf and coin door out ready for the cab to get repaired. The power module tests ok, (even though a bridge rectifier has been installed on the top).
I expect the Say it again board to be toast but the sound board might be ok and repairable with help from a friend. Even so there's options for repros for both

I cleaned up the coindoor while the cab was away, no more rust and dirt. It's not super shiny but it'll do! Added one of the old playfield plastics to one of the windows, I think it works!
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A few things to start of,
I got new silver ribbed legs, I did do a search but they might not be original?

I'm going to get comets for the GI and inserts. Does sunlight work throughout?

I've attached a new more photos so you can see the state of it. I think the playfield isn't too bad?

I'm hoping to get it playing before mid April as we're running a comp.

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I had a Fathom that was more water damaged than your Centaur. The playfield was near mint though since it never saw any play. I bought it for that alone, and when all the parts became available for it, I ended up doing a full restoration. Had to do a lot of sanding and polishing of all the rusty metal parts, but it was beautiful when completed. Still have the Centaur with all the restoration parts, but haven't gotten around to doing it. Would even consider selling it to the person who wants to put together a perfect example of the game. Complete working day 1 mylar game, Brand NEW painted cabinet with stamped serial numbers to match original. CPR playfield, still boxed, 2 possibly 3 sets of repro plastics, and repro Bally legs. Game already has new drop targets etc in it, so doing the swap is the time consuming part. But it's all there if anyone wants to hit me up with an offer! Best of luck fixing yours up. Looks like you're on yoru way!

Amazing to see one being raised from the dead!

I'm in the club. Getting this playfield buried in clear then going to reinstall. Can't wait.

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Final in the club.

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Nice...that machine is in great shape....

thanks. New playfield, plastics, back glass, stenciled, so on. I ordered a new white silicone kit for it, and that’s about it lol

In good company with Skateball and Viking on either side. Congrats!

That’s where I bought it from. Guy had like 60 machines… All of them basically wishlist games in mint condition.

I took a C2 PF and swapped into a C1 cab. Made the connector changes and all is good except for the lane change.

I know there is likely a wire that I need to reconnect but I'll be darned if I can find it. Any leads?

Thanks.

Down by rectifier board.

The barn find Centaur which was stored for 30+ years in damp is up and running!

Before
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After (added batons with gliders on because why not? Seems sensible in hindsight!)

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It's not a mint restoration but clean where it matters and playing nice!
The playfield parts have been cleaned or replaced. But still a lot of rust in the cab. The lamp sockets on the backbox are awful, I'll have to replace them at some point as two broke due to the rust, luckily only the "Match" "Shoot again" and one gi lamp so it's not the end of the world as I don't have extra balls on anyhow.

Just awaiting a new sound board and reverb board, arriving tomorrow hopefully!

All new plastics except the clear ones under the queen's chamber which were missing from my set, it was second hand unused on eBay, the seller used the clear bits but didn't like the CPR mirrored ones. Being in the UK it was the best deal at the time and I forgot to find the clear plastics then had to reuse the original yellowed and broken ones. If anyone knows where I can find them in Europe I'd appreciate it!

Frosted 2smd Sunlights in all the GI, most of the inserts (cool white under blues), but still incandescents in backbox and the remaining inserts. Where I get my comets ran out of stock so awaiting more, plus I'm scared to put any in the backbox with the risk of the sockets breaking due to the rust

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Lots of fettling and adjusting of switches the last day, but it's playing good now!
Sometimes the left thumper bumper activates randomly during gameplay, no points scored and I've tried opening the switch so it's some sort of interference or could the capacitor on the switch be at fault? It is the original one still.

I just about understand the rules but sometimes I notice I'll have ORBS and "release" will be lit, but upon hitting it the magnet grabs the ball and then drops it. No multiball. Yet other times the GI goes off and the balls are fired onto the playfield.
Is this anything to worry about or was I missing something?

Can't wait to play it with the sound!

DaveTheTrain I need to replace the back piece on the lower cabinet of my centaur. Do you have any tips or suggestions on that?

A friend did it for us, I am not good with wood

He sent these pics when he was doing it, not sure if any help.
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Looks like he added more support

I've got a SDB and MPU from the Nvram site barakandl as they were missing.

I've used the dip switches to select Olivers home ROM. Does anyone have experience of this?
I've found a readme for it but I am struggling to understand it.

I'm trying to get it so Centaur laughs, I've tried dip19 off but get no result.

"
if dip switch 25 = on and dip switch 26 = on freeplay is enable: decrease credits not lower then 01
coin 3 works now same as coin 2, dip 17 - 20 has new meaning
dip17 = off, flashing 50k and getting 50k for hitting orbs in sequence
dip18 = on , erase bonus after one ball total
dip19 = off, don't give power orb during multiball
if orb targets are out of sequence laught (but only if O was the first target you drop)
Dual target hits for ORBS target enabled (we wait two flashes until we detect an out of sequence error...)... change speech:
When (no multiball is running) or (multiball is running an dip 19 = on) and all ORBS dropped in sequence we say:
"Sequence completed activate Power Orb"
otherwise if all orbs are not dropped in sequence we say "energize power orb"
If multiball is running and all ORBS are droppend in sequence (with dip19 = off) we say "Sequence completed activate Power Orb"
if Multiball is running and all orbs are dropped not in sequence (withdip19 = off) we say "completed"
"

Start game, knock down the O. Wait a couple seconds. Knock down anything other than the R.... should laugh.

Got there eventually...I didn't have the board set to the home ROM, was looking at the wrong dip switches to change the ROM and didn't realise it came with the normal ROM active. What an idiot!

Got it going now and heard the laugh! Wonderful

I need new clear plastics for the queens chamber. Any idea on the part number for both? Googling centaur clear plastics doesn't help.

I had to reuse my old worn and dirty ones as my plastic set didn't have the clear plastics.

CPR has them...https://classicplayfields.com/?s=centaur&post_type=product

Worst comes to worst and you can't find any, buy some sheet polycarb/Lexan and make your own. It's pretty easy, and they're just clear so you don't have to worry about reproducing any graphics on them.

Anybody have an old playfield I could use as wall art? I’ve been hanging the machines I’ve done a swap on, but my centaur came with a new playfield already installed.

Edit: Found one thanks. Well, when Monkfe is done with his swap he’s selling me his old one

I have one that's just sitting around. It went through a flood .

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I have already found one. And edited my original post. Thanks though.