When I ship a game I build it into a crate in the back of my truck and then drive it to the shipping company. Example photos attached

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Wow, that’s awesome, back 20 years ago I shipped some games like that. A moving company in town used to cut down old vaults for like $100 bucks.

The legs look correct aside from being chrome, they should be a silver/grey/charcoal.

At this point I would take green legs with polka dots on them!

The legs are the correct style. But they are new, not 40 year old vintage...
The inside leg crimp thread stud gives it away.

Anyway the machine was rebuilt and hopefully it boots up later when I try it. (It’s super cold here so I need to let the machine temp adjust)

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I don't dispute that, the fact they are chrome is also a giveaway.

Got to get some of these Purdy coil wraps for those drop targets banks

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Yeah, where did you find them?

Sucks about the shipping issue, hopefully the legs are all that's damaged. Nice that you got a rebuilt game!

Thanks!

Yeah I just fired it up and it seems to be working ok. I have only played these and never owned one before.

Couple things I have noticed off the bat. When the game is on from time to time I hear static coming from the speakers. Also when you start a game, Right away and before I believe the game would get to a replay level the knocker goes off? Not sure if that is a malfunction or not? My right flipper is not firing at times but I have not had a chance to inspect the switch. Sometimes the orb drops don't drop when the are hit at a high speed straight on. But all and all it seems to be functioning pretty good.

you can download them here http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/coil_wrappers.htm

purchase some A4 adhesive backed paper on ebay...good to go.. follow printing instructions on the site

Doesn't Sti = Beltman = NAVL -- different names for the same shipping outfit, over time ?

I think I've used NAVL about 10 times myself, most often going coast to coast. In each case, the legs were ON. Head sometimes Up, sometimes Down. If the latter, something cushioning between the head and the sliding glass. Extensive use of thick cardboard covering all outer edges + some plastic wrap all around. Coincidentally, the one occasion where I had any conspicuous or significant damage was on the shipping of my Centaur. Cabinet damage plus some bent metal framing that had to be repaired, which got covered by insurance. The only insurance claim for shipping pins that I've had to date. Almost worse was the backglass loose and barely hanging on by amazing luck ! How it never fell off to shatter in that condition I'll never know. So -- if you choose to look at it that way -- this adds up to a 90 % good results batting average in my working with them. But I'm not aware of any clearly better option . . . .

Meanwhile, I think those shipments, historically at a tad under $500., are now more like $700. (?)
And I'm gonna say it again: to ship ANY valuable pin you cared about in this season, with the prevailing road and weather conditions -- well, if that's your plan, you (Generic You: Anyone, Everyone) ought to have their head examined, as they used to say. The fact of insurance is just not commensurate with the risk.

Yeah. CRST-STI-Beltmann NAVL are all owned by Beltmann.

This pin was ordered in OCT and ran into so many various delays. I couldn’t very well tell the guy. Well it’s winter now just hold on to it for me for the next 7 months. Besides I had zero basis not to trust STI with this shipment. I have trusted them to ship so many other pins (even in the winter) and had nothing but great experiences. All carriers have damaged pins it’s just the luck of the draw which pins get damage by which carrier. Heck stern is shipping $14,000.00 Bond LE’s (1000 made)and they are going to be shipping $20,000.00 Bond SLE’s (500 in production) in the middle of winter. That’s 1500 in just high end Bond pins they are shipping this winter.

Going forward tho, I agree with you; Im probably not going to be shipping pins in winter anymore. Honestly winter had nothing to do with this damage, it was carelessness.

Duplicate

It just makes sense to crate a game for shipment. These are highly valuable items - why leave anything to chance? A bit of work to be sure but in my opinion it must be done!

I am back to completing my Centaur project. Unfortunately, I am missing the topside ball trough. I have reached out to Mantis Amusment and Chris Royalty to make a new one, but I have not heard back from them yet. I know that this will be nearly impossible to find, but if anyone has any suggestions, or knows of someone who can make one of these, please let me know. I will even take whatever parts that I can find, in hopes of having the rest made. Pictured is the assembly/parts that I am looking for:

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Let's take a look into my box of Centaur specific parts. It's almost emptied out now.

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Can someone please send me some pics of the dual leaf flipper switch (right side)

Mine is wired backwards so the first part of the switch is doing the lane change and the second part of the switch is the flipper. Also I’m not sure if this is the correct switch for the machine?

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I think those look the same. Is there a connector pinning issue maybe?

Thank you for sending those. Yeah they look the same? So maybe it is pinned wrong at the driver board?

Broken switch stack end.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-916-S
Cabinet switch are in correct positions.
1st contact switch = large contacts controls flipper assembly.
2nd contact switch = small gold plated contacts control lane change.

Id just like to replace the entire switch. However I can't find the exact dual switch. there are similar ones but I am worried about alignment if it is not the same.

Here are some comparisons and then there is the single. Does centaur stack two singles together? It is strange they don’t have an exact replacement part?

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Thanks Ripple! You are a lifesaver, or gamesaver in this instance!

The cabinet flipper switches are two completely different assemblies put together.
Bally parts manual list the general flipper cabinet switch as
#ASW A1041 = heavy duty contacts.
The lane change switch part number is not documented.

thanks, Strange that the second switch is not documented and can't be found. I emailed. Marco, Pinball wizard, Action Pinball, and Planetary. Maybe someone will know?

It is nothing special, standard gold plated switch. I order some from marco a year ago.

What is the part number please

O.K. I did some research.
Bally lane-change cabinet switch is like part #ASW-A10-156
As used on Fireball II.
[ This is the closest to the part #ASW-A10-056 ]
#ASW-A10-056 is given as first used on Skateball game #1210

Awesome now I will try and see who sells one!

FWIW
Lane-Change Sw Breakdown
ASW-A10-0056:
consists of-------
E-00166-0047 ( 2 ) contact gold plate
M-01651-0012 ( 2 ) 3/16 O.D. tubing
M-01656-0002 ( 1 ) sep... SA-2
M-01656-0003 ( 1 ) sep... SA-3
M-01655-0002 ( 2 ) 1/16 sep tight S-2 [ this part is always breaks on the switch stack]
--------
P-08004-0520 ( 1 ) leaf SL9-20
P-08004-1620 ( 1 ) Idler leaf
P-08004-3320 ( 1 ) swtch leaf
P-08004-0110 ( 1 ) terminal Y-10
P-08004-0914 ( 2 ) insulator leaf FPH-14

https://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=SW-1A-120
or
https://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=180-5054-00

http://www.pbresource.com/buttswit.html

http://www.pbresource.com/buttswit.html

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That's doesn't look like the right one if it's a cabinet switch that's the one for the flipper mech itself. I think Sheev_Palpatine showed his in the cab.

Yeah I think we figured it out in the other thread.

I have a nice one up for sale .
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/147334

I posted this in the restoration forum, but I figured I'd post it here with my Centaur brethern..So I re-engineered the Bally shooter guide listed above NLA. I added the Williams shooter sleeve and 3D printed it.. I'm looking for someone to test this out before I put it out for sale. Someone who can put it into a machine that's going to be used to test the abuse factor on it to see if the plastic holds up.

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Nevermind...they still available not worth the effort

Can someone confirm that the switches behind the "ORBS" drop targets are mounted like this? no black 1/4 machine screw there?

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This has happened twice. And I’m not sure if I’m not doing something properly or the game is not playing correctly?

I get all 4 captive orbs lit and then the release power orbs light comes on above the flippers. Then I send the ball up and the magnet grabs it. At this point shouldn’t the 4 ball’s release to start the multiball? Or am I missing something? Mine the magnet drops the ball and nothing.

Looks fine.
Switches use #5-40 screws that are completely deferent hardware from the main
D/T assembly.
Here, pinsider ripple posted the engineering drawing to the photo morgue.
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copy that vec-tor....ty

Yes, Multi-ball should start if you have 4 balls "loaded" the game is clearly seeing the switch strike as the magnet activates.

Is the release light on in front of the lane? And what happens under the same conditions if you "release" at the Queens chamber switch?

you have to make sure release light is on, some times it is off, some times it alternates. test by completing the lower right bank of target in order, that should light it, then shoot the upper right stand up.

The magnet will not activate unless it is multiball ready if I remember correct.

I guess I need some clarification on how the code properly operates before I can test? I know the orange release (upper right) will go on and off while the captive orbs and the release lights stay on. So I was confused why that upper right light (orange release) goes on and off. And why the magnet grabs the ball but no multiball starts? Thanks for the help, I just need clarification to see if something is malfunctioning?

To light the release target you have to hit the drop down targets in order 1-4. I have seen it come on randomly but not sure what conditions causes that. If you hit all 4 drop targets out of order, I believe that activates the magnet to collect "bonus" multiplied by whatever multiplier in the lane is lit when you hit the upper stand up.

I got this from playing, so if I'm incorrect on anything, someone feel free to correct me.

That's correct, 1-4 targets out of order activates the magnet but does not release any orbs. This is actually a good skill shot as you time your shot from the left flipper to hit the release target aiming to achieve the 5X multiplier - it's quite difficult to get the 5X as it speeds up.

Target release lamp always comes on regardless on the last ball, but lamp can alternate on & off depending on dip switch #21

Switch #21 to "on" will keep the release lamp lit all the time once it comes on & switched to off will alternate the lamp, but only alternates the lamp on/off when on the last ball - all other balls will stay solid, furthermore, if you have switch #21 off & you have hit 1-4 in order & light the release lamp on any other ball during the game except for the last ball, when the last ball comes around their will be no alternating of the release lamp, will come on & stay on, in other words the lamp must have to have come on for the first time on the last ball to alternate on/off, this is probably why it appears random.