(Topic ID: 48888)

Centaur Club.....Members Only!

By vster23

10 years ago


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  • 294 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 32 days ago by Billc479
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There are 2,306 posts in this topic. You are on page 41 of 47.
#2001 1 year ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

I'm gonna have to disagree here: I really like being able to stack MB upon MB upon MB -- with all the ensuing crazy action -- and in a follow-on post you will see why. If you wanted to make the game harder, IMO all you'd need to do is to set it as a 3 Ball Game. Mine has been left set to 5 for almost the entire time I've had it.

5 ball? Unlimited multiball? Where's the challenge in all that if you can roll the score?

#2002 1 year ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

I'm gonna have to disagree here: I really like being able to stack MB upon MB upon MB -- with all the ensuing crazy action

Hey its all good. But it just takes a change to 1 dip switch to try it.

dip19 = off, don't give power orb during multiball

I think is makes it more fun to play with really good players because the games are a lot shorter.

The bonus reset doesn't change how long the game is but is my preference. Again a dip switch away.

YMMV

#2003 1 year ago
Quoted from Zee:

5 ball? Unlimited multiball? Where's the challenge in all that if you can roll the score?

Only managed that ONCE so far. Otherwise, had only approached the prior owner's GC score of 6.52 Mil., and that very rarely.
I mainly credit my mod to enhance operation of the return gates, and then a good wax job. But -- just possibly -- I am at last getting better on this game . . . ?

#2004 1 year ago
Quoted from KJL:

Hey its all good. But it just takes a change to 1 dip switch to try it.
dip19 = off, don't give power orb during multiball
I think is makes it more fun to play with really good players because the games are a lot shorter.
The bonus reset doesn't change how long the game is but is my preference. Again a dip switch away.
YMMV

Well, that should be very easy to try out, and I will.

btw, apparently superior-condition specimens of this pin are still out there, albeit at not-so-inviting prices.
This one is practically in my back yard. Were I in the market today, knowing what I know now about how much I came to like playing this pin, I might have considered it.

ebay.com link: itm

Now, if it could just offer some alternative, less off-putting artwork . . . .

#2005 1 year ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

Well, that should be very easy to try out, and I will.
btw, apparently superior-condition specimens of this pin are still out there, albeit at not-so-inviting prices.
This one is practically in my back yard. Were I in the market today, knowing what I know now about how much I came to like playing this pin, I might have considered it.
ebay.com link: itm
Now, if it could just offer some alternative, less off-putting artwork . . . .

I'm happy with the one I just bought. Plays really well. Only cost me $40 in gas. No need to spend $8500 plus $700 shipping.

#2006 1 year ago

Got my GI working again. Summary follows in case future peeps run into GI issues.

Problem was that Centaur GI was out.

I drew up a circuit diagram for one of the circuits, and everything was good, green and white wires (grounds) were on one side of the bulbs in the circuit, and red and orange wires were on the line side.

I was reading 7V AC at any point on the GI circuit, which means stuff wasn't getting grounded properly.

Centaur has finicky GI compared to most other pins, because they are controlled by an add-on auxiliary board and a Triac for some special effects.

Failure points for Centaur GI are:
- Triac (can be bench tested easily with a multimeter). It's a little round metal connector mounted to the same metal bracket as the power rectifier board.
- Auxiliary lamp board (there is a bulb beside it with no lighting insert that must work in order to load the circuit. Failed bulb equals failed circuit. It was not my issue, but I'm told cold solder breaks are common on the auxiliary lamp board connector and reflowing these will solve GI issues sometimes. You find this under the PF near the O-R-B-S lights.
- Main lamp board - Q14 is in line with the GI.

In my case, the triac tested ok. Jiggling connectors did nothing, so didn't seem to be a connector problem. Swapped lamp board with a known working one and the issue resolved. Replaced Q14 with SCR 5064 on the original board and put it back in, problem remained resolved.

#2007 1 year ago

I have one single GI bulb misbehaving now. The upper star roll over light. It has red wire on one side, and a jumper on the other that I think went to a ground braid. When I clip that jumper to a ground braid, the light comes on very bright, much brighter than the rest, and does not blink with the rest. And then my q14 fails again.

Anyone got a pic of the wiring for this one?

IMG_20221204_004920112 (resized).jpgIMG_20221204_004920112 (resized).jpg
#2008 1 year ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Anyone got a pic of the wiring for this one?[quoted image]

E419765E-F289-488F-9D91-8F5D102768A2 (resized).jpegE419765E-F289-488F-9D91-8F5D102768A2 (resized).jpeg
#2009 1 year ago

<blockquote

Quoted from EvanDickson:

And then my q14 fails again.

Check you have a working #555 lamp & also check for a socket short with the dedicated lamp for the under playfield Aux driver as per pic.

The Q14 SCR relates to this.

IMG_2515 (2) (resized).jpgIMG_2515 (2) (resized).jpg

#2010 1 year ago

Yes, this, thanks. It needed to go to the braid by the lane rovers, it's all good again now.

#2011 1 year ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

One of my peeves about playing Blackout. Every once in awhile I get a truly outstanding game and roll it and there is no indication on the HSTD

Had another good game today, although not nearly as good as the game that rolled it. Eclipsed the previous owner's GC by 300K . . . so I won't have it glaring at me any more. All good now.

#2012 1 year ago

anyone need a set of original displays? I have a complete set that I was told worked when the machine was torn down, but I've never confirmed myself as the machine is still a work in progress. Shoot me a PM if interested.

#2013 1 year ago

I'm so close to getting this thing nicely dialed in, but I've got another headscratcher. Well, two of them, but they may be related.

When I earn a single add-a-ball, the autolauncher fires more than once. Is this normal behaviour, or is something wrong there? I'm unsure if the code counts balls remaining to add, or if to save bytes of code they made it always fire 5 consecutive times.

On the opposite side of the coin, when I start multiball, the ball feeder intermittenly doesn't fire enough times. It's intermittent - sometimes all 4 additional balls will enter play, sometimes just 1 or 2 (and I'm talking with "maximum orbian strength achieved"). The feeder seems to move freely without friction when I wiggle it with my finger. The wires are firmly soldered to the coil lugs.

Has anyone ever experienced these?

Video demonstrations:

autolauncher fires multiple times for single add-a-ball:

launcher feeder does not fire enough times to feed all balls for multiball:

#2014 1 year ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

I'm so close to getting this thing nicely dialed in, but I've got another headscratcher. Well, two of them, but they may be related.
When I earn a single add-a-ball, the autolauncher fires more than once. Is this normal behaviour, or is something wrong there? I'm unsure if the code counts balls remaining to add, or if to save bytes of code they made it always fire 5 consecutive times.
On the opposite side of the coin, when I start multiball, the ball feeder intermittenly doesn't fire enough times. It's intermittent - sometimes all 4 additional balls will enter play, sometimes just 1 or 2 (and I'm talking with "maximum orbian strength achieved"). The feeder seems to move freely without friction when I wiggle it with my finger. The wires are firmly soldered to the coil lugs.
Has anyone ever experienced these?
Video demonstrations:
autolauncher fires multiple times for single add-a-ball:
launcher feeder does not fire enough times to feed all balls for multiball:

It looks like the balls are not dropping down into the auto-launcher.

#2015 1 year ago
Quoted from Zee:

It looks like the balls are not dropping down into the auto-launcher.

Correct, there's a feeder coil that whacks then over there, but it doesn't always fire enough times. But seems to have solid electrical connection and no internal friction.

#2016 1 year ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Correct, there's a feeder coil that whacks then over there, but it doesn't always fire enough times. But seems to have solid electrical connection and no internal friction.

Seems like a sticky switch symptom then.

#2017 1 year ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

I'm so close to getting this thing nicely dialed in, but I've got another headscratcher. Well, two of them, but they may be related.
When I earn a single add-a-ball, the autolauncher fires more than once. Is this normal behaviour, or is something wrong there? I'm unsure if the code counts balls remaining to add, or if to save bytes of code they made it always fire 5 consecutive times.
On the opposite side of the coin, when I start multiball, the ball feeder intermittenly doesn't fire enough times. It's intermittent - sometimes all 4 additional balls will enter play, sometimes just 1 or 2 (and I'm talking with "maximum orbian strength achieved"). The feeder seems to move freely without friction when I wiggle it with my finger. The wires are firmly soldered to the coil lugs.
Has anyone ever experienced these?
Video demonstrations:
autolauncher fires multiple times for single add-a-ball:
launcher feeder does not fire enough times to feed all balls for multiball:

1) Ball feed into kicker is working.
1a) Ball kicker is working... However, the ball does not have enough throw speed to fully
--- escape the undercarriage setup. The ball rolls down and gets stuck on the release switch.
2) Adjust the exit release switch so as a ball can rollback down to the kicker.
2a) Also make sure the ball can activate the switch...
3) Adjust all exit components so as to clear all ball interferences.. The ball can nick the
--- top flat rail.. the two side thin walls, the transition tension plate...
3a) Also, make sure the undercarriage alignment is center to the exit playfield wood.
---- The ball should never touch the wood sides as it comes out from under the playfield.

#2018 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

1) Ball feed into kicker is working.
1a) Ball kicker is working... However, the ball does not have enough throw speed to fully
--- escape the undercarriage setup. The ball rolls down and gets stuck on the release switch.
2) Adjust the exit release switch so as a ball can rollback down to the kicker.
2a) Also make sure the ball can activate the switch...
3) Adjust all exit components so as to clear all ball interferences.. The ball can nick the
--- top flat rail.. the two side thin walls, the transition tension plate...
3a) Also, make sure the undercarriage alignment is center to the exit playfield wood.
---- The ball should never touch the wood sides as it comes out from under the playfield.

You set me on the right path, thanks!

I'd tested drain and trough switches, in case it was a ball count thing, but they were all good. I had not noticed that there was an exit switch in the subway, which you pointed out. That swith was bent out of shape and no longer registering. As a result, I believe the machine was not registering ball auto launches and retrying up to 5 times for a single add-a-ball. It must be coded to retry until the ball registers and it must give up after the 5th failed attempt. Not firing the feeder at multiball - it must be coded not to feed a second ball until the first one registers as having been launched.

#2019 1 year ago

This arrived today.

20221209_165401 (resized).jpg20221209_165401 (resized).jpg

It'll be months before I put it in though. Game is too fresh to not play it right now and it's playing really well.

The existing one isn't too bad anyway besides the yellowing.
20221209_165410 (resized).jpg20221209_165410 (resized).jpg20221209_165426 (resized).jpg20221209_165426 (resized).jpg20221209_165608 (resized).jpg20221209_165608 (resized).jpg20221209_165415 (resized).jpg20221209_165415 (resized).jpg20221209_165529 (resized).jpg20221209_165529 (resized).jpg20221209_165418 (resized).jpg20221209_165418 (resized).jpg20221209_165522 (resized).jpg20221209_165522 (resized).jpg20221209_165525 (resized).jpg20221209_165525 (resized).jpg20221209_165423 (resized).jpg20221209_165423 (resized).jpg

Just curious if it's normal for the back side to be bare wood? Should the holes that are marked be drilled already?

The only other playfield I've gotten was my Firepower, but that was a few years ago. The back is gray and the holes were started.

20221209_165748 (resized).jpg20221209_165748 (resized).jpg20221209_165758 (resized).jpg20221209_165758 (resized).jpg

#2020 1 year ago

A CPR I'm guessing? no holes are not usually drilled..you may want to make a template with the old one...for drilling the holes that is...good luck with the install...I currently have one(CPR) at Kruzman getting his magic....

#2021 1 year ago
Quoted from monkfe:

A CPR I'm guessing? no holes are not usually drilled..you may want to make a template with the old one...for drilling the holes that is...good luck with the install...I currently have one(CPR) at Kruzman getting his magic....

Yep, a CPR. Nice on Kruzman doing his thing on your playfield. It's going to be spectacular.

#2022 1 year ago
Quoted from Geocab:

This arrived today.
[quoted image]
It'll be months before I put it in though. Game is too fresh to not play it right now and it's playing really well.
The existing one isn't too bad anyway besides the yellowing.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Just curious if it's normal for the back side to be bare wood? Should the holes that are marked be drilled already?
The only other playfield I've gotten was my Firepower, but that was a few years ago. The back is gray and the holes were started.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Remember, test fit all components. I had a hell of a time for alignment issues. Posts can 1/16" to
3/32" off.
Test plastic set alignment. Test playfield mounting inside cabinet with ball shooter...
Test alignment of drop target assemblies... Test alignments of switch components...
Remember the bottom left and right are not 100% symmetrical.
As always, have fun.

#2023 1 year ago
Quoted from Geocab:

This arrived today.
[quoted image]
It'll be months before I put it in though. Game is too fresh to not play it right now and it's playing really well.
The existing one isn't too bad anyway besides the yellowing.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Just curious if it's normal for the back side to be bare wood? Should the holes that are marked be drilled already?
The only other playfield I've gotten was my Firepower, but that was a few years ago. The back is gray and the holes were started.
[quoted image][quoted image]

It's good to take months anyways, it'll give the clear time to cure.

I think the holes you're referring to are all just for lamps. Those don't need to be predrilled. I did find with my Addams playfield swap that a lot of through holes for posts and such were undersized and needed to be redrilled, so you might run in to some of that.

Good luck with the swap, take your time and be patient with yourself. The underside of Centaur is very tightly packed, it's gonna be a doozy!

#2024 1 year ago
Quoted from Geocab:

This arrived today.
[quoted image]
It'll be months before I put it in though. Game is too fresh to not play it right now and it's playing really well.
The existing one isn't too bad anyway besides the yellowing.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Just curious if it's normal for the back side to be bare wood? Should the holes that are marked be drilled already?
The only other playfield I've gotten was my Firepower, but that was a few years ago. The back is gray and the holes were started.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Recognized these photos from a recent sale on pinside. Your seller marked the machine not sold to a pinsider

#2025 1 year ago

Anyone have the rectifier board placard for reproduction by chance?...the yellow one...
rectifier (resized).jpgrectifier (resized).jpg
edit- found it on Inko's site...

#2026 1 year ago

Finally in the club. been on the hunt for one of these things for years.

#2027 1 year ago

I wanted to make a video of how the reverb sounded on my Centaur since I installed the aftermarket board, but then I decided to just play a whole game and ended up with my highest score yet. Mind you, I'm sure a lot of you can get my score playing one-handed, but I still thought I'd share.

#2028 1 year ago

A video of my Centaur II played at 25% of the original speed.

1 week later
#2029 1 year ago

i have a refurbished Centaur with original boards + LED adapters, fully LEDs. it looks great and crisp but the attract mode is crazy! It blinks non stop, which is pretty painful when you play the game next to it. Is there something i can do to avoid it?

#2030 1 year ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

i have a refurbished andCentaur with original boards + LED adapters, fully LEDs. it looks great and crisp but the attract mode is crazy! It blinks non stop, which is pretty painful when you play the game next to it. Is there something i can do to avoid it?

Right now the only solution is to bypass the triac in the cabinet, which would also remove any in game effects like the lights shutting off when a ball is added to the field.

#2031 1 year ago
Quoted from Geocab:

Right now the only solution is to bypass the triac in the cabinet, which would also remove any in game effects like the lights shutting off when a ball is added to the field.

hmmm not great but i mean it's really crazy :/

here is a video of it:
https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ahxi0c_5v2PVp48NBQPq1b5uHwLgZw?e=7Jtouh

#2032 1 year ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

hmmm not great but i mean it's really crazy :/
here is a video of it:
https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ahxi0c_5v2PVp48NBQPq1b5uHwLgZw?e=7Jtouh

Well you created you own problem there with the super-bright LEDs. Time to get creative and solve it like they did with the LEDOCD boards. Or you could install a GI cut-off relay triggered by the flipper enable relay or something.

#2033 1 year ago
Quoted from Geocab:

Right now the only solution is to bypass the triac in the cabinet, which would also remove any in game effects like the lights shutting off when a ball is added to the field.

Exactly what I did, and for me, that was just the solution I needed! The slingshots will still strobe in attract mode, rather than EVERY SINGLE GI LAMP, and now it’s a LOT less seizure-inducing! Subjective for sure, but unless this game is played in complete and total darkness, the one-second that the game occasionally goes dark isn’t really useful anymore.

#2034 1 year ago
Quoted from Dakine747:

Exactly what I did, and for me, that was just the solution I needed! The slingshots will still strobe in attract mode, rather than EVERY SINGLE GI LAMP, and now it’s a LOT less seizure-inducing! Subjective for sure, but unless this game is played in complete and total darkness, the one-second that the game occasionally goes dark isn’t really useful anymore.

I agree it's annoying, but I really like the lights off effect so I either leave the game off until I'm ready to play, or cover the playfield. I think the game looks good with LEDs in the GI. The gameplay video I posted above shows how the game is lit in my room since I don't use other lighting.

I wish I were savvy enough to develop an LED OCD type solution that would make them pulse slowly, or bypass the flashing altogether when in attract mode, but still work during gameplay.

#2035 1 year ago
Quoted from Geocab:

I wish I were savvy enough to develop an LED OCD type solution that would make them pulse slowly, or bypass the flashing altogether when in attract mode, but still work during gameplay.

Tie into the flipper enable relay coil power to run another 48V relay that connects/disconnects the GI power. You could add a variable resistor to the normally-open contacts on the new relay that runs the GI at a lower level when de-energized.

#2036 1 year ago

Anyone here used the metal ball guide set from Mantis on their game? Looks like it's very high quality but I'm concerned about the fit. What are your findings on your machine, fits well? Needs a little work to fit? Needs so much work to fit that it's better to just stick with the originals?

#2037 1 year ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Anyone here used the metal ball guide set from Mantis on their game? Looks like it's very high quality but I'm concerned about the fit. What are your findings on your machine, fits well? Needs a little work to fit? Needs so much work to fit that it's better to just stick with the originals?

Mantis kit is perfect, the guy did exceptional work

#2038 1 year ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Mantis kit is perfect, the guy did exceptional work

I did not see that set listing, but have put in the separate Mantis parts for KISS and Snack Bar. One spot I don't recall being mentioned for possible coverage (by Mantis or by Cliffy) is the VUK hole. In looking at mine, I see no wood issues at all. Perhaps this is not an issue for concern there ?

While not the right forum thread, I'm also wondering if the hole around and behind the idol drops on Williams IJ, which is otherwise concealed from view, may be in need of such protection ? In glancing over the Cliffy and Mantis offerings for that game, I failed to spot the appropriate parts.

#2039 1 year ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

I did not see that set listing, but have put in the separate Mantis parts for KISS and Snack Bar. One spot I don't recall being mentioned for possible coverage (by Mantis or by Cliffy) is the VUK hole. In looking at mine, I see no wood issues at all. Perhaps this is not an issue for concern there ?
While not the right forum thread, I'm also wondering if the hole around and behind the idol drops on Williams IJ, which is otherwise concealed from view, may be in need of such protection ? In glancing over the Cliffy and Mantis offerings for that game, I failed to spot the appropriate parts.

https://mantispinball.com/product/centaur-6-piece-ball-guide-set/

I have a Mantis set I purchased two years ago, might sell might not. Have the last CPR silkscreen playfield and have not decided if I'm doing a scratch build or not.
Centaurballguide (resized).jpgCentaurballguide (resized).jpg

#2040 1 year ago

In case no one has seen this:

ebay.com link: itm

Does anyone here find that the color adds much in the way of value ?
But I'm doubting enough to justify the price.
(It would be fairly unique though . . . ?)
And you'd have to not dislike the artwork in the first place.

#2041 1 year ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

In case no one has seen this:
ebay.com link: itm
Does anyone here find that the color adds much in the way of value ?
But I'm doubting enough to justify the price.
(It would be fairly unique though . . . ?)
And you'd have to not dislike the artwork in the first place.

Blecch. Looks awful. The whole point of Centaur artwork is black + white + red accents. And what the heck, blue faceted posts?? It's like someone turned Centaur into a coloring book.

#2042 1 year ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

In case no one has seen this:
ebay.com link: itm
Does anyone here find that the color adds much in the way of value ?
But I'm doubting enough to justify the price.
(It would be fairly unique though . . . ?)
And you'd have to not dislike the artwork in the first place.

I would deduct $8000 for that. Not sure why CPR decided to do that colorization. Looks like a beginner high school art class project.

#2043 1 year ago

anyone have a 15 pin .100 connector...I'm one short...here is a reference https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CS100-15-LR

#2044 1 year ago

Been waiting for my machine since November. Order booked on Nov 21st just delivered today and this is how it showed up. Sti fail

0318826E-0A87-454E-B13D-044E307E0119 (resized).jpeg0318826E-0A87-454E-B13D-044E307E0119 (resized).jpegD809FC84-C464-4AD1-8684-61E889B9CB95 (resized).jpegD809FC84-C464-4AD1-8684-61E889B9CB95 (resized).jpeg
#2045 1 year ago

Who the hell ships a game with the legs on?

#2046 1 year ago
Quoted from Zee:

Who the hell ships a game with the legs on?

They do....I always put mine on a pallet and blanket wrap and plastic wrap the snot out of it...don't trust that leg on deal....for just this reason....

#2047 1 year ago
Quoted from Zee:

Who the hell ships a game with the legs on?

More often than you think, some people insist on it.

#2048 1 year ago
Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:

Been waiting for my machine since November. Order booked on Nov 21st just delivered today and this is how it showed up. Sti fail
[quoted image][quoted image]

The legs are OEM Williams legs. That style of legs, from a period in time, [1976-82] are prone
to bend when certain angle stresses, [pushed] are applied.
It looks like the game was pushed up against a small heavy object.

#2049 1 year ago

I was never a fan of shipping like this for that reason. But over the last few years I think I have shipped 10 machines with sti never been a problem. I was hesitant with this machine to use sti and I was going to have it palleted up…. And of course I don’t have any backup legs right now.

#2050 1 year ago
Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:

I was never a fan of shipping like this for that reason. But over the last few years I think I have shipped 10 machines with sti never been a problem. I was hesitant with this machine to use sti and I was going to have it palleted up…. And of course I don’t have any backup legs right now.

The legs on the game are repro legs. PBR has them.
Williams, starting with High Speed, to add the column fluting to the legs.

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