(Topic ID: 48888)

Centaur Club.....Members Only!

By vster23

8 years ago


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  • 1,497 posts
  • 241 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 51 minutes ago by Heretic_9
  • Topic is favorited by 98 Pinsiders

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There are 1,497 posts in this topic. You are on page 29 of 30.
#1401 83 days ago

Centaur inna HOUSE! WoooHOOOOO!!!

56DE9561-21AB-4035-BF1D-E9DE4FA2F323 (resized).jpegC2E062AF-E18C-479C-8D5D-5CB63430F832 (resized).jpeg
#1402 83 days ago
Quoted from Dakine747:

Centaur inna HOUSE! WoooHOOOOO!!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Congrats. It's a very special game.

#1403 83 days ago
Quoted from Dakine747:

Centaur inna HOUSE! WoooHOOOOO!!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

nice lineup of classics there.

#1404 83 days ago
Quoted from Dakine747:

in attract mode my whole playfield flashes in unison.

The playfield GI on my centaur flashes in attract mode. CPU control of playfield GI is used the black out the playfield when balls are launched from the tunnel. One of the coolest lamp effects in classic pinball as they just appear at the top of the playfield

#1405 82 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Hate to be that guy but......."ITS" and "MULTIBALL" spelled incorrectly on top card.

lol Mutly ball!

1373963-1_large (resized).jpg
#1406 82 days ago

It's

It's (resized).png
#1407 82 days ago

Hello everyone,
Let me introduce myself my name is Robin, I am a big fan of pinball in France.
I had a problem restarting my Centaur, the sound card smoked at the bottom right of the card, at connector j2.
Since then I have no more sound but the rest is working fine.
What do you think happened?
Thank you and have a good day everyone!

#1408 81 days ago

Probably a short-circuit somewhere on the board. It can be repaired. Perhaps there is something obvious that we'll be able to see. Could you post high-res photos of the front and back of the card?

#1409 81 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Hate to be that guy but......."ITS" and "MULTIBALL" spelled incorrectly on top card.

I appreciate that. Must have missed it. I'll post a new one.

#1410 81 days ago

Card (resized).png

#1411 78 days ago

Thank you, CashMoney, for selling me this wonderful Centaur! I joined Pinside 3 weeks ago, put up a wanted ad the next day, and 2 days later, there I was, picking up the machine I've always wanted!

It was already in great shape, with CPR playfield, cabinet, and backglass in perfect condition. I just did a few little things - put in LEDs, hooked up a subwoofer, put a bingo ball in the Queen's Chamber, and fixed the shooter.

It's a beauty, and it looks great next to my Fathom! Now all I need is an Eight Ball Deluxe. . . .

Centaur (resized).jpegCentaur playfield (resized).jpegCentaur and Fathom (resized).jpeg
#1412 78 days ago
Quoted from Dakine747:

FINALLY joined the brotherhood! WoooHOOOOO!! Okay, so…..I’ve turned OFF dipswitch #30 so balls don’t deploy during attract mode, however the playfield inserts will still flash. That said, in attract mode, is playfield GI supposed to flash too?? I’ve seen a couple YouTube vids where GI stays on while inserts flash, but in attract mode my whole playfield flashes in unison. Am I missing something obvious here?? Thanks, and DESTROY CENTAUR!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

you can also stop the GI from flashing in Attract mode. First thing I did when I got mine. It was way too much flashing...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-turn-off-attract-mode-on-centaur

#1413 77 days ago
Quoted from Cayman:

hooked up a subwoofer, put a bingo ball in the Queen's Chamber,

Congratulations ... i´ve got my Centaur2 6 weeks ago and i´m totally happy with it. Some things to do but in a really good shape.

So a big "hello" from me to this centaur community thanks to be a part of it.

This "bingo ball". Seems that they didn´t exist in germany. Where could i buy one and which subwoofer u´ve hooked up please?

I´ve read many of those bingo balls existing in centaur pinballs. But nothing appears in manual.

This is my normal "pinball" waiting in chamber. Do you have a detailed picture from you bingo ball in there?

greetings Kai

centaur_champer_normal_ball (resized).jpg
#1414 76 days ago
Quoted from VindictiveX:

you can also stop the GI from flashing in Attract mode. First thing I did when I got mine. It was way too much flashing...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-turn-off-attract-mode-on-centaur

Yes, a guy on Facebook posted that link! Now I don’t feel like I’m going to have a seizure every time I turn the game on! LOL

#1415 76 days ago
Quoted from kds70:

Congratulations ... i´ve got my Centaur2 6 weeks ago and i´m totally happy with it. Some things to do but in a really good shape.
So a big "hello" from me to this centaur community thanks to be a part of it.
This "bingo ball". Seems that they didn´t exist in germany. Where could i buy one and which subwoofer u´ve hooked up please?
I´ve read many of those bingo balls existing in centaur pinballs. But nothing appears in manual.
This is my normal "pinball" waiting in chamber. Do you have a detailed picture from you bingo ball in there?
greetings Kai[quoted image]

I’m a new member of this cool-kids Centaur club too, but I wouldn’t lose any sleep without a bingo ball in there. A regular ball works just fine! If your plastics were worn out to the point that they no longer held the ball in the chamber, then maaaybe a bingo ball would be a temporary fix. I have new plastics in my machine, and the regular size ball works perfectly!

#1416 76 days ago
Quoted from kds70:Congratulations ... i´ve got my Centaur2 6 weeks ago and i´m totally happy with it. Some things to do but in a really good shape.
So a big "hello" from me to this centaur community
//<![CDATA[
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thanks to be a part of it.
This "bingo ball". Seems that they didn´t exist in germany. Where could i buy one and which subwoofer u´ve hooked up please?
I´ve read many of those bingo balls existing in centaur pinballs. But nothing appears in manual.
This is my normal "pinball" waiting in chamber. Do you have a detailed picture from you bingo ball in there?
greetings Kai[quoted image]

Bingo balls were never factor installed in any Centaur. They are a little larger and lighter than a standard pinball which made it easier to complete the Queen's Chamber. That is why they were installed.

#1417 76 days ago
Quoted from kds70:

This "bingo ball". Seems that they didn´t exist in germany. Where could i buy one and which subwoofer u´ve hooked up please?

I bought the bingo ball from PBResource. Marco Specialties carries them too. Honestly, I don't think it makes any difference, but I read a lot of discussion about it, so I put one in.

Any subwoofer will do, but it's much easier with this cable:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1176-gweem-s-mods/02289-10-ft-external-subwoofer-cable

#1418 75 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Bingo balls were never factor installed in any Centaur. They are a little larger and lighter than a standard pinball which made it easier to complete the Queen's Chamber. That is why they were installed.

They are larger, but HEAVIER than a standard pinball, making the QC a little harder to complete.

#1419 75 days ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

They are larger, but HEAVIER than a standard pinball, making the QC a little harder to complete.

Not true. Bingo balls are several grams lighter. You are probably going by the weight of the Marco ball. That isn’t a bingo ball. It is the correct size but the weight is wrong. I believe true bingo balls are a different alloy and should be slightly lighter.

#1420 75 days ago
Quoted from Cayman:

I bought the bingo ball from PBResource. Marco Specialties carries them too. Honestly, I don't think it makes any difference, but I read a lot of discussion about it, so I put one in.

Any subwoofer will do, but it's much easier with this cable:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1176-gweem-s-mods/02289-10-ft-external-subwoofer-cable

Thank you very much ...

As i read here it´s not so easy to get a "real" and lightweighted bingo ball. So i will stay with my original ball. Finishing chamber feature is good possible too.

#1421 75 days ago
Quoted from kds70:

Thank you very much ...
As i read here it´s not so easy to get a "real" and lightweighted bingo ball. So i will stay with my original ball. Finishing chamber feature is good possible too.

If you are trying to make the Queen’s chamber easier your best bet is adding a ceramic ball like the Twilight Zone power ball.

#1422 75 days ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

They are larger, but HEAVIER than a standard pinball, making the QC a little harder to complete.

I can confirm, in my game, the ball I have in the chamber is larger (& heavier) than a standard ball. The larger ball weighs 95 grams & standard ball 80 grams. For me, it is only just possible for the larger messenger ball to reach the top target (via the rollovers) sometimes, it's hard. My flippers are rebuilt & very strong, so probably the same as when they were new. With the standard size messenger ball it's dead easy to make the top target this way. It doesn't feel right with the standard lighter ball to me.

So, if the games came from the factory with standard balls, it would seem that a lot of people must have replaced them with the larger/heavier Bingo? balls to make it harder.

#1423 75 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Not true. Bingo balls are several grams lighter. You are probably going by the weight of the Marco ball. That isn’t a bingo ball. It is the correct size but the weight is wrong. I believe true bingo balls are a different alloy and should be slightly lighter.

Ah, good to know. Yeah, I thought about it after posting and realized the ball I have, though larger (1-1/8"), may not be an actual "bingo ball". Makes sense that the original balls used in bingo pins would be lighter, and also that many people would generalize any larger size steel ball as being a bingo ball.

I bought my 1-1/8" from ballbaron.com

#1424 75 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

If you are trying to make the Queen’s chamber easier your best bet is adding a ceramic ball like the Twilight Zone power ball.

Tried putting a Glo-Ball in the QC when I first got my CentaurII because I thought it would be neat to light the chamber with UV. IMO, it was then too easy. Sneeze on the captive ball and it sends it all the way back..

#1425 72 days ago

Can anyone take a picture of the rebound switches on the left side for me? I'm trying to bring a playfield back after it had been robbed of parts and pieces and the wiring for these two switches is unclear.

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#1426 72 days ago

Is this what you need?

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#1427 72 days ago

After playing this Centaur at my uncle's house for the past 30+ years, I finally talked him into selling it to me. My life is complete

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#1428 72 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Is this what you need?
[quoted image]

Almost, I think I figured it out.

Mine had a loop connecting the two switches along with a wire to each. Redundant and not sure why it was done. Looking over the pictures I have collected, some have the loop and others do not.

#1429 72 days ago
Quoted from SJ23:

After playing this Centaur at my uncle's house for the past 30+ years, I finally talked him into selling it to me. My life is complete

[quoted image]

Your uncle is one cool dude.

#1430 71 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Can anyone take a picture of the rebound switches on the left side for me? I'm trying to bring a playfield back after it had been robbed of parts and pieces and the wiring for these two switches is unclear. [quoted image]

Hope this helps.

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#1431 71 days ago

Okay, so I’ve got this entire playfield tricked out in Comet LED’s. 2SMD frosted for GI, and 2SMD clear (color-matched) for inserts. Looks like a million BUCKS, however…..the four green arrows at the 1-4 drop targets are not swapped due to the fact those li’l buggas are covered by the drop target assembly! UGH!! I’ve never had to remove one before, but it seems I have to, to get to those four lamps. Can anybody help me understand how I begin to remove it??? Am I gonna have to desolder and take it apart piece-by-piece??? Any advice or best practices MOST welcomed!! Thank you!!

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#1432 71 days ago
Quoted from Dakine747:

Hope this helps.[quoted image]

Thanks! Verifies my work!

#1433 71 days ago
Quoted from Dakine747:

Okay, so I’ve got this entire playfield tricked out in Comet LED’s. 2SMD frosted for GI, and 2SMD clear (color-matched) for inserts. Looks like a million BUCKS, however…..the four green arrows at the 1-4 drop targets are not swapped due to the fact those li’l buggas are covered by the drop target assembly! UGH!! I’ve never had to remove one before, but it seems I have to, to get to those four lamps. Can anybody help me understand how I begin to remove it??? Am I gonna have to desolder and take it apart piece-by-piece??? Any advice or best practices MOST welcomed!! Thank you!!
[quoted image]

See post #1075 I made in this thread. Hope it helps!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/centaur-clubmembers-only/page/22#post-5565110

#1434 71 days ago

SunnRAT, you ROCK!! That looks like it’ll make it a lot less gruesome than I thought….THANKS!!

#1435 70 days ago

SunnRAT …….thanks man, all is now right with the world!!

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1 month later
#1436 26 days ago

Working on a CII playfield swap, and during all the work, this wire from the magnet broke off. Can someone confirm if the wire goes to the other tab as shown in the picture?

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#1437 26 days ago

The schematic shows connections on each side of a diode, like a solenoid, so I'm saying yes?

cmagnet (resized).jpg

#1438 24 days ago

Holy Crap. should have done this with my Centaur build! Not your typical coffee table build.

#1439 23 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

The schematic shows connections on each side of a diode, like a solenoid, so I'm saying yes?

Yes power wire to the banded side drive wire to non banded side. I tried to post a pic for someone somewhere in this thread

#1440 22 days ago

Anyone have a original Centaur manual they would part with ?
thanks Scott

#1441 22 days ago

Can anyone help show me where this piece goes? I believe it is near/around the auto launcher or the trough area.

20211231_173303 (resized).jpg20211231_173258 (resized).jpg
#1442 22 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Can anyone help show me where this piece goes?

I believe it is part of the 4 ball trough. Cant find a better pictures but will look

IMGP1179 (resized).JPGIMGP1181 (resized).JPGIMGP1184 (resized).JPG
#1443 22 days ago

Yeah, I think I got it

Thanks!

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#1444 22 days ago

Try this one

IMGP1188 (resized).JPG
#1445 21 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Holy Crap. should have done this with my Centaur build! Not your typical coffee table build.

I feel like this guy waited until YouTube removed the downvote button before posting it.

It's a well-executed project, but he did it to a pinball machine that was in good enough shape that it didn't need to be altered. They could have got an absolutely trashed one if they were just going to to throw out everything but the playfield.

In fact, if he'd just bought a populated playfield, he'd probably have saved thousands of dollars.

#1446 19 days ago

Almost there! I know Bally drop target bricks are real, but my ORBS targets really brick, like not normal brick. Anything that is relatively fast will brick. I thought they were adjusted pretty well, but I guess not. Should I move the bank forward a little? Back a little?

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#1447 18 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Should I move the bank forward a little? Back a little?

As a test first remove the rubbers behind and and see if that helps at all. It did for me so I moved a little forward.

If just one target try a second spring first and see if that helps. That has worked for me too.

Good luck

#1448 18 days ago
Quoted from KJL:

As a test first remove the rubbers behind and and see if that helps at all. It did for me so I moved a little forward.
If just one target try a second spring first and see if that helps. That has worked for me too.
Good luck

I remounted the mech onto the old playfield and saw that the front of the targets when down, were forward as much as possible, so that's what I ended up doing. I still get occasional bricks but it seems a lot better.

Lastly I need to adjust the auto-launcher rails, but I'm not sure how much (or what) adjustment I can make. Underneath, there are 2 nylock nuts that secure the 2 rails to the bracket and a curved piece that sits in between the 2 rails. The only adjustment I can makes is loosening the nylock nuts, but I don't see how that would works as it makes the rails more loose. Any tips would be appreciated!

#1449 18 days ago

Also running into an issue where all the displays are missing the "ones" digit.

I've tried to look at the schematics and past threads, but i can't make sense of which pin goes to where and what pin is daisy chained etc.

I've reflowed solder to J1 on the MPU (again). I don't know which pin to check continuity to the display (assuming player 1).

I've reflowed soldered to the P1 display, then swapped P1 and P4 displays and the issue persists.

Any help would be appreciated! (It worked before the swap, so must have happened when I moved the display panel to route the wires to the head. This is on CII)

#1450 17 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Also running into an issue where all the displays are missing the "ones" digit.

MPU board J1 pin 1 is the 'ones' digit enable signal that goes to pin 4 on all the displays. Schematics say it's a black wire.

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