(Topic ID: 48888)

Centaur Club.....Members Only!

By vster23

8 years ago


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  • 1,347 posts
  • 223 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by nibre
  • Topic is favorited by 90 Pinsiders

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There are 1347 posts in this topic. You are on page 27 of 27.
#1301 21 days ago

I wrote this for a humor thread, but I am a former owner of a Centaur back in the late 90s. It used to be to the immediate left of my computer desk where I'm sitting at this very moment in fact. My old ''51 Gottlieb Poker Face has that slot currently.

8f10bbe51c6d7686e56c6113914174939a9533fb (resized).jpg
#1302 20 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

So I’m trying to get my magnet sorted out.

If you end up having to replace your magnet you will quickly find out that a direct replacement is no longer available. I did a write up a couple of years ago on what I needed to do to use the commonly available Williams magnet instead.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/centaur-20-9247-magnet-retrofit

#1303 20 days ago
Quoted from Timmo:

If you end up having to replace your magnet you will quickly find out that a direct replacement is no longer available. I did a write up a couple of years ago on what I needed to do to use the commonly available Williams magnet instead.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/centaur-20-9247-magnet-retrofit

Thanks for the tip. To be honest, if I find out my OEM magnet is dead I'll probably just rewrap it. It is easy to do just very time consuming.

#1304 19 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

No matter what I do I can’t get the magnet to work.

At the magnet, the yellow wire should have 43V. The black-red wire connects to the solenoid driver board at J5 pin 3 which switches ground to the magnet.
So if you manually ground the black-red wire at the magnet, this applies in-game power to it. Does it work?

#1305 19 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

At the magnet, the yellow wire should have 43V. The black-red wire connects to the solenoid driver board at J5 pin 3 which switches ground to the magnet.
So if you manually ground the black-red wire at the magnet, this applies in-game power to it. Does it work?

Thanks - The game is at my vacation house. I'll check it out next week when I return but I believe the correct voltage is present but nothing is happening. Both the MPU and driver boards are new replacement aftermarket boards. I'll try manually grounding the circuit but I'm leaning towards a dead coil at this point.

#1306 19 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I'll try manually grounding the circuit but I'm leaning towards a dead coil at this point.

The 51 ohms you measure across the coil is a good sign - that's the reading I got on one I measured about two years ago. So I wouldn't be suspecting it just yet. Problem is I'm not aware of anyone selling them off the shelf - I looked a while back because my Centaur is missing the factory magnet . Someone fitted a later WMS magnet in mine which is too strong and regularly blew a 3amp slow blow fuse I put on it.

If I remember right:
The magnet has a PTC thermistor in it or something similar - no idea what its value might be.
The gauge on an original Centaur magnet wire I measured was roughly somewhere around 30 or 31AWG - don't quote me on this. There are online calculators to estimate the number of turns. I have to find it again.

If grounding the black-red wire on the magnet works, then go upstream:
* Ground the metal tab of the Q18 driver transistor on the solenoid driver board to manually activate the magnet.
* Further upstream, ground pin 11 of U4 on the solenoid driver board to manually activate the magnet.

If you have no luck when you visit it, post some clear pictures of the magnet showing the screw puncture.

#1307 19 days ago

For your viewing pleasure. I have a photo of the rear of my OEM playfield. As you can see the area where the magnet sits has been penatrated with a screw. It almost seems like the feature was purposely disabled. So many Centaur's have the same problem. It makes me kinda wonder if this was intentional.

20170122_151102 (resized).jpg
#1308 18 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

The gauge on an original Centaur magnet wire I measured was roughly somewhere around 30 or 31AWG - don't quote me on this.

May be 27 gauge for rewinding according to someone that had a go (2 goes) at rewinding a Centaur magnet.

http://blog.danjoannis.com/?p=1165

#1309 18 days ago
Quoted from Joydivision:

May be 27 gauge for rewinding according to someone that had a go (2 goes) at rewinding a Centaur magnet.

Cheers, they sound pretty confident it's 27 gauge wire. 51 ohms calculates to about 1000 feet of wire.
https://www.cirris.com/learning-center/calculators/133-wire-resistance-calculator-table

#1310 17 days ago

I picked up a centaur 2. It’s missing the head, glass, boards, etc. all I have is what’s in these pictures.

I will be doing a resto on this, if anyone out there has parts or advice let me know. I’m looking to buy some new/used parts.

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#1311 17 days ago
Quoted from rushisrighton:

I picked up a centaur 2. It’s missing the head, glass, boards, etc. all I have is what’s in these pictures.
I will be doing a resto on this, if anyone out there has parts or advice let me know. I’m looking to buy some new/used parts.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Best of luck, you're a brave man. Looks like it's missing the multiball shooter mech, that's gonna be tough to find.

#1312 17 days ago
Quoted from rushisrighton:

I picked up a centaur 2. It’s missing the head, glass, boards, etc. all I have is what’s in these pictures.
I will be doing a resto on this, if anyone out there has parts or advice let me know. I’m looking to buy some new/used parts.

You should check out HEP's posts. He recently finished a conversion of a Centaur II to a regular Centaur as well as making a one using an alternate color scheme.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/173#post-6117923

#1313 17 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

that's gonna be tough to find.

How much should I charge ?

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#1314 17 days ago
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#1315 17 days ago

I’m sure there’s stuff out there, love seeing the pics too guys it really helps! I just picked this up 2 days ago, haven’t had time to sit down and look through it very much. I’m just trying to get my ducks in a row.

My Pinbot resto came out really nice, thankfully I work with a mechanic who is pretty handy pin-wise, and I’m a autobody painter so I’m pretty handy cabinet wise. Between the two of us plus some pretty good local people most things can be done.

#1316 16 days ago

I would be very grateful if someone could take a high resolution picture of this area (and send it to me).

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#1317 15 days ago

Can anyone please provide some detailed pictures of the flipper button leaf switches inside the cabinet? I am trying to resolve some hacks and need some accurate pictures--thanks!

#1318 12 days ago
Quoted from nibre:

I would be very grateful if someone could take a high resolution picture of this area (and send it to me).
[quoted image]

Here's a JPG made from the vector artwork - maybe it's good enough for your purposes.

Centaur_UpperShooterLane_300DPI (resized).jpg
#1319 11 days ago

Thanks!

#1320 11 days ago
Quoted from GKW:

Can anyone please provide some detailed pictures of the flipper button leaf switches inside the cabinet? I am trying to resolve some hacks and need some accurate pictures--thanks!

GKW probably too late but here is what I think you want. . Pm me if you need more and I’ll post here

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#1321 9 days ago

Thank you for the pictures!

#1322 9 days ago

Hello club members,
I am working on a friends Centaur machine and have a few questions. This machine has not been operational for sometime and bringing back a dead machine is a bit challenging.

Anyhow I have got it back working again (original CPU) with the exception of the sound boards. I did purchase a cap kit from Big Daddy for the AS-2518-61B Squawk & Talk board, installed them along re-flowing pin connections. Also removed all chips (that are removable) cleaned their legs and re-installed. After all this work I still have no sounds. The S&T board appears to boot correctly, LED on turn on 1 quick flash followed by 4 flashes. I can also get white noise out of the speakers if I turn the volume all the way up. I am at a loss as where to go next. Is this a lost cause? Would I be better to replace it? I see Pinball Life carries a replacement board for the S&T board (not sure if this replaces both boards) and is it reliable as has anyone used this replacement board before?

Any help would be appreciated.
Mike

#1323 9 days ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Hello club members,
I am working on a friends Centaur machine and have a few questions. This machine has not been operational for sometime and bringing back a dead machine is a bit challenging.
Anyhow I have got it back working again (original CPU) with the exception of the sound boards. I did purchase a cap kit from Big Daddy for the AS-2518-61B Squawk & Talk board, installed them along re-flowing pin connections. Also removed all chips (that are removable) cleaned their legs and re-installed. After all this work I still have no sounds. The S&T board appears to boot correctly, LED on turn on 1 quick flash followed by 4 flashes. I can also get white noise out of the speakers if I turn the volume all the way up. I am at a loss as where to go next. Is this a lost cause? Would I be better to replace it? I see Pinball Life carries a replacement board for the S&T board (not sure if this replaces both boards) and is it reliable as has anyone used this replacement board before?
Any help would be appreciated.
Mike

Did you re-cap the reverb board as well?

#1324 9 days ago

I did not, just the S&T. Do you think that would make a difference?

#1325 9 days ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

I did not, just the S&T. Do you think that would make a difference?

Since all the audio passes through the reverb board, yes. You might try bypassing it to see if there is audio coming from the squawk & talk board.

#1326 8 days ago

Okay, how do I do that?

#1327 8 days ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Okay, how do I do that?

You could connect a small speaker or headphones to pins 9 & 10 of the squawk & talk output. Then power on the game and press a flipper to hear the "Challenge me..." monologue.

If you get sound, then suspect the Say It Again board needs work.

#1328 8 days ago

Okay great, I will give that a try and let you know what happens.
Thanks for the help!

#1329 8 days ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Hello club members,
I am working on a friends Centaur machine and have a few questions. This machine has not been operational for sometime and bringing back a dead machine is a bit challenging.
Anyhow I have got it back working again (original CPU) with the exception of the sound boards. I did purchase a cap kit from Big Daddy for the AS-2518-61B Squawk & Talk board, installed them along re-flowing pin connections. Also removed all chips (that are removable) cleaned their legs and re-installed. After all this work I still have no sounds. The S&T board appears to boot correctly, LED on turn on 1 quick flash followed by 4 flashes. I can also get white noise out of the speakers if I turn the volume all the way up. I am at a loss as where to go next. Is this a lost cause? Would I be better to replace it? I see Pinball Life carries a replacement board for the S&T board (not sure if this replaces both boards) and is it reliable as has anyone used this replacement board before?
Any help would be appreciated.
Mike

Possibly the ROM is bad. I was missing 1/3 of my sound until I replaced 1 of the 3 ROM chips. I bought replacements on eBay, good seller.

#1330 8 days ago
Quoted from Zee:

You could connect a small speaker or headphones to pins 9 & 10 of the squawk & talk output. Then power on the game and press a flipper to hear the "Challenge me..." monologue.
If you get sound, then suspect the Say It Again board needs work.

Okay tried this test. I did hook up the bottom speaker to 9 &10 as you suggested, hope this speaker was okay to try with. I got no sounds when I pushed a flipper button. Was this incorrect using the speaker in the machine?
Would the next step be replacing the rom chips?

#1331 8 days ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Okay tried this test. I did hook up the bottom speaker to 9 &10 as you suggested, hope this speaker was okay to try with. I got no sounds when I pushed a flipper button. Was this incorrect using the speaker in the machine?
Would the next step be replacing the rom chips?

I just realized I had the pins wrong - tap into pins 8 and 9, NOT 9 and 10. 9 and 10 are both ground pins.

8 and 9 will give you the raw audio sent to the reverb board. 7 and 9 will give you the output of the reverb board (if the cable is connected).

Also, make sure the volume control on the inside of the coin door is turned up before re-trying the test. Finally, make sure you did not make any mistakes when re-capping the board. Electrolytic capacitors are polarity sensitive, as you know.

#1332 8 days ago

My Centaur magnet has been sorted out. It took me a couple hours but my repair worked so I'm happy. As you can see my coil had a screw take it out. I removed the coil from the game and started to remove the magnetic wire. At about 300' I found the first break. At 400' I found the second. I ditched the 100' broken section and re-attached the 300' foot lenght to the coil. It tested at 57 ohms after the repair.

20210611_103402 (resized).jpg20210611_120103 (resized).jpg20210611_124032 (resized).jpg
#1333 8 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

My Centaur magnet has been sorted out. It took me a couple hours but my repair worked so I'm happy. As you can see my coil had a screw take it out. I removed the coil from the game and started to remove the magnetic wire. At about 300' I found the first break. At 400' I found the second. I ditched the 100' broken section and re-attached the 300' foot lenght to the coil. It tested at 57 ohms after the repair.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Dang, good job man! Watch out, everyone will be coming to you for magnet/coil repairs in the future.

#1334 8 days ago
Quoted from Zee:

I just realized I had the pins wrong - tap into pins 8 and 9, NOT 9 and 10. 9 and 10 are both ground pins.
8 and 9 will give you the raw audio sent to the reverb board. 7 and 9 will give you the output of the reverb board (if the cable is connected).
Also, make sure the volume control on the inside of the coin door is turned up before re-trying the test. Finally, make sure you did not make any mistakes when re-capping the board. Electrolytic capacitors are polarity sensitive, as you know.

I was right the first time. I zoomed in on my PDF and saw that 9 and 10 ARE the correct pins for audio out. Sorry for the confusion....my mind is going.

#1335 8 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

My Centaur magnet has been sorted out.

Great!
Do you by chance have a micro gauge to measure/confirm the original coil wire gauge?

#1336 8 days ago
Quoted from Zee:

I was right the first time. I zoomed in on my PDF and saw that 9 and 10 ARE the correct pins for audio out. Sorry for the confusion....my mind is going.

Okay, so I did this test with no luck on sounds. Recommendations on what to do next?

#1337 8 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Great!
Do you by chance have a micro gauge to measure/confirm the original coil wire gauge?

I don't but would be happy to send you a sample if you do. Hit me up with a PM if you want some to measure.

#1338 8 days ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Okay, so I did this test with no luck on sounds. Recommendations on what to do next?

Now you are getting into advanced electronic diagnostics. I would check J1 for corroded pins. Then I'd watch the inputs at J1 with a scope to make sure the sound select signals are making it to pins 1,2,3,4,12. I'd check the op-amps and if all those tests come out good, then go for the ROMS.

#1339 7 days ago
Quoted from Zee:

Now you are getting into advanced electronic diagnostics. I would check J1 for corroded pins. Then I'd watch the inputs at J1 with a scope to make sure the sound select signals are making it to pins 1,2,3,4,12. I'd check the op-amps and if all those tests come out good, then go for the ROMS.

This is where I stop, I don't own the correct equipment for this kind of repairs. I have been in contact with my board technician and it's time to send it in for repairs. I appreciate all the help in this. I just don't have any luck in repairing sound boards.

#1340 7 days ago

Hey, have any of you Centaur owners tried the replacement backglass offered by Marco/Planetary? I'm wondering about its quality...I tried a repro a few years ago but it was not very good.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/G-440-20
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-G-440-20V2&Category_Code=GS-476

I'm wondering how this compares to the original.

Thanks in advance.

#1341 7 days ago
Quoted from Zee:

Hey, have any of you Centaur owners tried the replacement backglass offered by Marco/Planetary? I'm wondering about its quality...I tried a repro a few years ago but it was not very good.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/G-440-20
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-G-440-20V2&Category_Code=GS-476
I'm wondering how this compares to the original.
Thanks in advance.

No repro glasses are the same as an original. And today no more reproduction are screened as the original process, they are ink printed and worse specially with light thru them.

#1342 7 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I don't but would be happy to send you a sample if you do.

You're too kind however I don't live near the US so it wouldn't be feasible. Appreciate the offer though.

#1343 1 day ago

I need to remove the top plastics but I can't reach the screws. Therefore, I have to move the playfield. How do I move it to the place below? Do I have to lift it while it's vertical or do I drag it towards me when it is horisontal? Or is there another way?

Flytta playfield - 00b (resized).JPG
#1344 1 day ago

You have to lift it, and its a tight squeeze - you have to be near perfect going up and down. Its easier with two people. It sits in that cradle, there should be one on both sides.

#1345 1 day ago
Quoted from nibre:

I need to remove the top plastics but I can't reach the screws. Therefore, I have to move the playfield. How do I move it to the place below? Do I have to lift it while it's vertical or do I drag it towards me when it is horisontal? Or is there another way?
[quoted image]

Since your playfield is already in the vertical position, what you want to do is lift it up just enough to where it clears the hinges and then place it into the inside cabinet rails so you can then tilt it back to the headbox.

To play it safe for the first time, i'd recommend finding another person and lift the playfield up from each side. When you are ready to set the playfield back down, you will both have to make sure it finds the hinges inside the cab.

#1346 15 hours ago

I can usually move it to the cradle on my own. However putting it back on the hinges is more difficult and 2 people definitely makes it easier. I just replaced my top plastics and didn't need to move the playfied to the cradle. I used a 90 degree phillips screwdriver. It was easier than trying to work upsidedown.

#1347 10 hours ago

Thank you, Billc479, SunnRAT, trk12fire!

There are 1347 posts in this topic. You are on page 27 of 27.

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