(Topic ID: 48888)

Centaur Club.....Members Only!

By vster23

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 14 days ago by Dakine747
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There are 1,435 posts in this topic. You are on page 24 of 29.
#1151 1 year ago
Quoted from rvdv:

Any one know what this is for or how to make it
Work for 110 volts instead of 220 v ?

It looks like a stepdown transformer and a rather small one for this application.

Does the game have the original Bally transformer on the large metal power module? If yes you can bypass that stepdown transformer - just make sure the original Bally transformer is wired for 115V - see the below picture of the voltage selector jumper block located next to the main transformer.

NOTE, you will need to change the red varistor shown in your second picture with one of these:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=V130LA20AP

And change the inline EMI filter for one capable of higher current:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=ZHG2206-H

PS-54_Config.jpg

#1152 1 year ago

Excellent !! Much appreciated the detailed input

I Indeed need to convert to 110 on the original ( secpic) transformer so the picture of the plug nrs is perfect. I did buy a new board for the one that’s next to transformer

Also in the Backbox there is a weird Red switch
Any ideas ?

I’m working on putting colored playfield in it
And adding some new touches to this game

Hoping I have it all working correct though
Fingers crossed

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#1153 1 year ago
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#1154 1 year ago
Quoted from rvdv:

Also in the Backbox there is a weird Red switch
Any ideas ?

Sorry, without knowing where the wires on that red switch are hooked up to it's impossible to know. If you can trace where they go then I can comment.

Whoever wired the transformer in this game didn't know what they were doing. You'll have to make up two jumper wires with crimps since the game only has one at the moment and you need three.

BTW, it's the block connector sitting on the bracket with the mains fuse next to the transformer.

Transformer_Centaur1.jpg

#1155 1 year ago

Thank you for the input
Will make the two jumper wires so it will look
Like in your picture

Already ordered the other parts for the Filter fix
So I should have clean reliable power

Progress is good

Thanks again

1 week later
#1156 1 year ago

..still a ways to go on this legacy Centaur II project. But at least I now have the entire bottom and top sides rebuilt (save for the pops). The metal posts are powder coated black with red rings for contrast against red plastic posts with black rings.
Drop targets cleared by Neo

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#1157 1 year ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

..still a ways to go on this legacy Centaur II project. But at least I now have the entire bottom and top sides rebuilt (save for the pops). The metal posts are powder coated black with red rings for contrast against red plastic posts with black rings.
Drop targets cleared by Neo
[quoted image][quoted image]

I guess you would call this version of Centaur, the sleek black metal version.
Very nice.

#1158 1 year ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

..still a ways to go on this legacy Centaur II project. But at least I now have the entire bottom and top sides rebuilt (save for the pops). The metal posts are powder coated black with red rings for contrast against red plastic posts with black rings.
Drop targets cleared by Neo
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks interesting. I'd like to see some wide shots of the playfield when it's ready.

#1159 1 year ago

Joined the club today with a CII! The game is going to need a good once over. Going to put in LEDs. On my EBDLE I needed to leave an incandescent bulb for the solenoid expander bulb. Is there such a lamp for CII?

Also, what's up with the awkward way to flip up the playfield? Seems unnecessarily complicated. What am I missing?

#1160 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Is there such a lamp for CII?

It’s near the “O” side of the ORBS drop assembly.

Quoted from FatPanda:

what's up with the awkward way to flip up the playfield? Seems unnecessarily complicated.

Yeah those hinges are poorly designed.

To remove pf, lift up about 1in and pull forward (should be able to just set on edge of lockdown receiver). It is now out of the inside of the hinge. Then lift pf to about 15 deg, enough to get your hand behind it , and lift straight up.
Not the best technical description, but you’ll get the hang of it. Had it not been for the orb release subway track, I was considering trying to retrofit some stern style rails. Probably wouldn’t work.

#1161 1 year ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

It’s near the “O” side of the ORBS drop assembly.

Yeah those hinges are poorly designed.
To remove pf, lift up about 1in and pull forward (should be able to just set on edge of lockdown receiver). It is now out of the inside of the hinge. Then lift pf to about 15 deg, enough to get your hand behind it , and lift straight up.
Not the best technical description, but you’ll get the hang of it. Had it not been for the orb release subway track, I was considering trying to retrofit some stern style rails. Probably wouldn’t work.

Thanks for the pointers. I'll have to work under quite a bit, so hopefully I get the hang of it before I break anything!

#1162 1 year ago

My 5 yr old breaking it in. His skills impress me every time I watch him.

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#1163 1 year ago

Stupid question, How do you remove the red score display panel on the LE cabinet? On my EBDLE, I can just lift up the panel and remove it. On CII, i can't quite lift it up to clear the bottom lip. Is there a latch or something that I need unlock? Is something missing on my EBDLE?

#1164 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

On CII, i can't quite lift it up to clear the bottom lip.

Hm, odd. I have no issue removing it on this CII, same as an EBDLE.

#1165 1 year ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

Hm, odd. I have no issue removing it on this CII, same as an EBDLE.

Definitely feels like theres something blocking it on the left side. I can lift the right side up to clear the bottom panel but not the left side

#1166 1 year ago

I hate the Rapid Fire cabinet for many reasons and this is one of them. I'm guessing that press board swells and sags over time. Mine is tough to get out also. Can't remember if there is a release. If so, it would be accessible from behind the backglass. Just reach down the hole and feel around for it.

#1167 1 year ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

Hm, odd. I have no issue removing it on this CII, same as an EBDLE.

Center panel has two slide angle brackets that must be pushed to the back of the cabinet...
The angle brackets are located to the left and right sides of the opening from the top back box.

#1168 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Center panel has two slide angle brackets that must be pushed to the back of the cabinet...
The angle brackets are located to the left and right sides of the opening from the top back box.

Got it! That square tab is the latch that holds the display panel in place. One on each side. Can be slid forward and back just like you said. Thanks! My EBDLE must have both brackets slid back always.

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#1169 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Center panel has two slide angle brackets that must be pushed to the back of the cabinet...

Neat! I didn't notice those. I was wondering though because it seemed silly that there wouldn't be something to prevent theft if on location.

#1170 1 year ago

Another dumb question. When the ball goes into the inlanes, the transition to the flippers is pretty clunky. Is that due to the gate or the little plastic that is there, or is it supposed to be much more smooth?

#1171 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Is that due to the gate or the little plastic that is there

New plastics made all difference on mine. Was clunky before, smooth after. One of the two original pieces definitely had a lil chunk of the corner missing.

#1172 1 year ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

New plastics made all difference on mine. Was clunky before, smooth after. One of the two original pieces definitely had a lil chunk of the corner missing.

I was considering getting plastic protectors because of this.

#1173 1 year ago

Just order the cliffies for it. Once adjusted, plays awsome

#1174 1 year ago
Quoted from Tallon:

Just order the cliffies for it. Once adjusted, plays awsome

Sweet! I didnt know they existed.

#1175 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Sweet! I didnt know they existed.

yeah, they dont look like much but they really work and he even thought about the light having to some thru

1 week later
#1176 1 year ago

Is there a setting to make the vertical drop targets have a memory and not reset every ball?

#1177 1 year ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Is there a setting to make the vertical drop targets have a memory and not reset every ball?

The in-line targets of the Queens Chamber? I don't believe there is a setting to keep them from resetting after each ball. Definitely doesn't have the individual memory plungers like the 1-2-3-4 targets do.

There is a setting to retain the value of the in-line targets throughout the game (e.g. if you get it to 50K on the first ball, then on your second ball the first/closest target will score 50k).

2 weeks later
10
#1178 1 year ago

Joined the Centaur club back in September. Definitely wasn’t cheap but, it has a new old stock playfield, near mint original glass and super nice original cabinet. Threw in a pinball pro speaker, LED’s, NVRAM, and some clear Titan rubbers. Works perfectly and fits in nicely with my collection. DESTROY CENTAUR!!!

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#1179 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevster219:

Joined the Centaur club back in September. Definitely wasn’t cheap but, it has a new old stock playfield, near mint original glass and super nice original cabinet. Threw in a pinball pro speaker, LED’s, NVRAM, and some clear Titan rubbers. Works perfectly and fits in nicely with my collection. DESTROY CENTAUR!!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Beautiful Game! Did you cut a larger hole in bottom of cab for the larger speaker or just mount it as is?

#1180 1 year ago

While I was working on my Centaur II's backbox, most of the original light baffles broke into pieces. They were extremely brittle. Only one survived.

My friend did me a huge favour and 3d-printed me a set. In the only color right for Centaur II.

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#1181 1 year ago

Does anybody have any experience in flame polishing Centaur II's display panel?

Mine has quite a few scratches on it that I would love to get rid of, but I am not sure if the material the panel is made of lends itself for flame polishing.

Many thanks in advance for sharing your experience!

#1182 12 months ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Does anybody have any experience in flame polishing Centaur II's display panel?

I asked this same question in the Eight Ball Deluxe thread figuring it was more likely that an EBDLE owner would've restored their panel than most C2 owners.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-owner-club-guests-welcome-as-well/page/68#post-5884415

Wet sanding with fine grit paper and a final polish seems to be the answer. I have yet to do it to my C2, but I plan on getting to it eventually.

#1183 12 months ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

I asked this same question in the Eight Ball Deluxe thread figuring it was more likely that an EBDLE owner would've restored their panel than most C2 owners.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-owner-club-guests-welcome-as-well/page/68#post-5884415
Wet sanding with fine grit paper and a final polish seems to be the answer. I have yet to do it to my C2, but I plan on getting to it eventually.

Thanks a lot! That was exactly what I was looking for. The result on that EBDLE looks awesome.

Will you post the result of your C2's panel once it is done? I will do that as well.

1 week later
#1184 11 months ago

Made a little something I thought a few of your owners may be interested in.

Looking for that last-minute Christmas gift for your pinhead friend? The perfect stocking stuffer? Or just looking to treat yo' self! Check out our latest pin series ORBS! Available on my Etsy Shop. They just got delivered today, photos of the actual pins coming later today. But if you want to get your orders in ASAP so I can get them shipped out for holiday delivery please do so!

https://www.etsy.com/listing/922720023/orbs-pin-series?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=pinball+pins+orbs&ref=sr_gallery-1-1&organic_search_click=1

#1185 11 months ago

No it comes with a new mounting plate that allows for the larger speaker.

Quoted from ghostbc:

Beautiful Game! Did you cut a larger hole in bottom of cab for the larger speaker or just mount it as is?

#1186 11 months ago

I am in the midst of putting a project Centaur back together and I have a question about the drop target banks. None of them have springs on the targets, except for the in-line drops. Are these supposed to have springs?

#1187 11 months ago
Quoted from GKW:

I am in the midst of putting a project Centaur back together and I have a question about the drop target banks. None of them have springs on the targets, except for the in-line drops. Are these supposed to have springs?

They should all have springs

6F4A32FE-5145-4255-849E-80BC587AD166.jpeg
#1188 11 months ago

Thank you very much for the information. Would you take a picture of the solenoid wiring on the 1-2-3-4 assembly? Mine is not wired and I have no idea which wire goes to which solenoid.

#1189 11 months ago
Quoted from GKW:

Thank you very much for the information. Would you take a picture of the solenoid wiring on the 1-2-3-4 assembly? Mine is not wired and I have no idea which wire goes to which solenoid.

Seek and ye shall find. Centaur schematics are available on the ipdb website. I believe this answers your question.

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#1190 11 months ago

GKW Timmons provided the key. But I like to use the schematic to verify my pics so Ill add a few
but the info is right. Frist color is wire color second is stripe color (0 is no stripe)

Check my work as I like typos. Pics are from a playfield swap but should help. First pic is switches for wire color.

target 1 is 78 which the pic shows is 7(Orange wire) with a 8(black stripe)
target 2 is 71 which the pic shows is 7(Orange wire) with a 1(red stripe)
target 3 is 91 which the pic shows is 9(Grey wire) with a 1(red stripe)
target 4 is 81 which the pic shows is 8(Black wire) with a 1(red stripe)

Note on the 4mechs that the power wire is yellow to the 4 target (right wire) and then from there there are 4 black power jumpers to the other 3 solenoids.
Then the drive wires as outlined above and in the schematic are the ground wires that sink the solenoid.

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#1191 11 months ago

Cool pin set I got for Christmas .

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#1192 11 months ago
Quoted from ripple:

Cool pin set I got for Christmas .
[quoted image]

Nice!! I got a pair of those as well. Awesome piece of artwork !

#1193 11 months ago
Quoted from ripple:

Cool pin set I got for Christmas .
[quoted image]

Awesome I’m glad they made it and I love your black centaur II orbs drops!

#1194 11 months ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Made a little something I thought a few of your owners may be interested in.
Looking for that last-minute Christmas gift for your pinhead friend? The perfect stocking stuffer? Or just looking to treat yo' self! Check out our latest pin series ORBS! Available on my Etsy Shop. They just got delivered today, photos of the actual pins coming later today. But if you want to get your orders in ASAP so I can get them shipped out for holiday delivery please do so!
https://www.etsy.com/listing/922720023/orbs-pin-series?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=pinball+pins+orbs&ref=sr_gallery-1-1&organic_search_click=1

Awesome.....

#1195 11 months ago

Is this lock bar release lever missing a spring? If so, can somebody show me a photo of what it should look like? It is a Centaur 2 cabinet. Thanks in advance.

20201228_183230 (resized).jpg

#1196 11 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Is this lock bar release lever missing a spring? If so, can somebody show me a photo of what it should look like? It is a Centaur 2 cabinet. Thanks in advance.
[quoted image]

Nope, you’re good. No spring on that design.

I think that ground wire going to the lock ramp should be attached to the shooter rod plate.

#1197 11 months ago
Quoted from mjalexan:

Nope, you’re good. No spring on that design.
I think that ground wire going to the lock ramp should be attached to the shooter rod plate.

Thanks for the verification. My release handle has a lot of play in it making it hard to close the coin door (the handle keeps falling down which obstructs the coin door from closing). I see the handle does have a hole so I thought it might be missing a spring and the anchor point. Anything is possible since it was originally a Rapid Fire cabinet. Heck, my game has 2 serial numbers on it (the Centaur 2 serial number and the Rapid Fire number). When I repainted the cabinet it had the Rapid Fire art under the Centaur paint job. I think I'll just add a nylon shim to the handle mechanism to increase the tension. That should keep it from falling down.

#1198 11 months ago

Is $3400 a good price? Works great and playfield is in really nice shape. No issues. Thanks for the help.

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#1199 11 months ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Is $3400 a good price? Works great and playfield is in really nice shape. No issues. Thanks for the help.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I've been looking for one with a decent playfield and would absolutely jump on one like this if on pinside at that price. I would actually guess that on Pinside it would be gone in just a couple of days (if not same day).

#1200 10 months ago
Quoted from GTO:

I've been looking for one with a decent playfield and would absolutely jump on one like this if on pinside at that price. I would actually guess that on Pinside it would be gone in just a couple of days (if not same day).

Ok cool. Thanks!

There are 1,435 posts in this topic. You are on page 24 of 29.

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