New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 48888)

Centaur Club.....Members Only!


By vster23

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,183 posts
  • 208 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Jappie
  • Topic is favorited by 81 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 454 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG-20201126-WA0011 (resized).jpeg
Screenshot_20201126-152333_WhatsApp (resized).jpg
Screenshot_20201126-151840_WhatsApp (resized).jpg
Screenshot_20201126-152344_WhatsApp (resized).jpg
F30A6E53-26A3-49FF-B803-04C82DF743E0 (resized).jpeg
D6FFE322-0896-4E54-98E0-85F8273F3AF9 (resized).jpeg
A2621F6D-BAB3-4689-94D7-E761FF1A214A (resized).jpeg
EEB663E6-D4C9-478A-9027-B9BC4E175432 (resized).jpeg
20201027_200751 (resized).jpg
20201025_165427 (resized).jpg
02E2CEFF-D70F-47C2-B00B-01A06137F769 (resized).jpeg
6B19CFD4-8D98-4528-A742-E604000D65B1 (resized).jpeg
Transformer_Centaur1.jpg
50024371-B32E-4C0F-86DF-C3E3C139B93A (resized).jpeg
7A46162B-1EC6-4267-9827-B52EAF4D672B (resized).jpeg
C9C60BF7-A068-4D7D-A383-2F93F310C6F1 (resized).jpeg

There are 1183 posts in this topic. You are on page 24 of 24.
#1151 55 days ago
Quoted from rvdv:

Any one know what this is for or how to make it
Work for 110 volts instead of 220 v ?

It looks like a stepdown transformer and a rather small one for this application.

Does the game have the original Bally transformer on the large metal power module? If yes you can bypass that stepdown transformer - just make sure the original Bally transformer is wired for 115V - see the below picture of the voltage selector jumper block located next to the main transformer.

NOTE, you will need to change the red varistor shown in your second picture with one of these:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=V130LA20AP

And change the inline EMI filter for one capable of higher current:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=ZHG2206-H

PS-54_Config.jpg

#1152 54 days ago

Excellent !! Much appreciated the detailed input

I Indeed need to convert to 110 on the original ( secpic) transformer so the picture of the plug nrs is perfect. I did buy a new board for the one that’s next to transformer

Also in the Backbox there is a weird Red switch
Any ideas ?

I’m working on putting colored playfield in it
And adding some new touches to this game

Hoping I have it all working correct though
Fingers crossed

7A46162B-1EC6-4267-9827-B52EAF4D672B (resized).jpegC9C60BF7-A068-4D7D-A383-2F93F310C6F1 (resized).jpeg
#1153 54 days ago
50024371-B32E-4C0F-86DF-C3E3C139B93A (resized).jpeg
#1154 54 days ago
Quoted from rvdv:

Also in the Backbox there is a weird Red switch
Any ideas ?

Sorry, without knowing where the wires on that red switch are hooked up to it's impossible to know. If you can trace where they go then I can comment.

Whoever wired the transformer in this game didn't know what they were doing. You'll have to make up two jumper wires with crimps since the game only has one at the moment and you need three.

BTW, it's the block connector sitting on the bracket with the mains fuse next to the transformer.

Transformer_Centaur1.jpg

#1155 54 days ago

Thank you for the input
Will make the two jumper wires so it will look
Like in your picture

Already ordered the other parts for the Filter fix
So I should have clean reliable power

Progress is good

Thanks again

1 week later
#1156 42 days ago

..still a ways to go on this legacy Centaur II project. But at least I now have the entire bottom and top sides rebuilt (save for the pops). The metal posts are powder coated black with red rings for contrast against red plastic posts with black rings.
Drop targets cleared by Neo

02E2CEFF-D70F-47C2-B00B-01A06137F769 (resized).jpeg6B19CFD4-8D98-4528-A742-E604000D65B1 (resized).jpeg
#1157 42 days ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

..still a ways to go on this legacy Centaur II project. But at least I now have the entire bottom and top sides rebuilt (save for the pops). The metal posts are powder coated black with red rings for contrast against red plastic posts with black rings.
Drop targets cleared by Neo
[quoted image][quoted image]

I guess you would call this version of Centaur, the sleek black metal version.
Very nice.

#1158 42 days ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

..still a ways to go on this legacy Centaur II project. But at least I now have the entire bottom and top sides rebuilt (save for the pops). The metal posts are powder coated black with red rings for contrast against red plastic posts with black rings.
Drop targets cleared by Neo
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks interesting. I'd like to see some wide shots of the playfield when it's ready.

#1159 38 days ago

Joined the club today with a CII! The game is going to need a good once over. Going to put in LEDs. On my EBDLE I needed to leave an incandescent bulb for the solenoid expander bulb. Is there such a lamp for CII?

Also, what's up with the awkward way to flip up the playfield? Seems unnecessarily complicated. What am I missing?

#1160 38 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Is there such a lamp for CII?

It’s near the “O” side of the ORBS drop assembly.

Quoted from FatPanda:

what's up with the awkward way to flip up the playfield? Seems unnecessarily complicated.

Yeah those hinges are poorly designed.

To remove pf, lift up about 1in and pull forward (should be able to just set on edge of lockdown receiver). It is now out of the inside of the hinge. Then lift pf to about 15 deg, enough to get your hand behind it , and lift straight up.
Not the best technical description, but you’ll get the hang of it. Had it not been for the orb release subway track, I was considering trying to retrofit some stern style rails. Probably wouldn’t work.

#1161 38 days ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

It’s near the “O” side of the ORBS drop assembly.

Yeah those hinges are poorly designed.
To remove pf, lift up about 1in and pull forward (should be able to just set on edge of lockdown receiver). It is now out of the inside of the hinge. Then lift pf to about 15 deg, enough to get your hand behind it , and lift straight up.
Not the best technical description, but you’ll get the hang of it. Had it not been for the orb release subway track, I was considering trying to retrofit some stern style rails. Probably wouldn’t work.

Thanks for the pointers. I'll have to work under quite a bit, so hopefully I get the hang of it before I break anything!

#1162 37 days ago

My 5 yr old breaking it in. His skills impress me every time I watch him.

20201025_165427 (resized).jpg
#1163 36 days ago

Stupid question, How do you remove the red score display panel on the LE cabinet? On my EBDLE, I can just lift up the panel and remove it. On CII, i can't quite lift it up to clear the bottom lip. Is there a latch or something that I need unlock? Is something missing on my EBDLE?

#1164 35 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

On CII, i can't quite lift it up to clear the bottom lip.

Hm, odd. I have no issue removing it on this CII, same as an EBDLE.

#1165 35 days ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

Hm, odd. I have no issue removing it on this CII, same as an EBDLE.

Definitely feels like theres something blocking it on the left side. I can lift the right side up to clear the bottom panel but not the left side

#1166 35 days ago

I hate the Rapid Fire cabinet for many reasons and this is one of them. I'm guessing that press board swells and sags over time. Mine is tough to get out also. Can't remember if there is a release. If so, it would be accessible from behind the backglass. Just reach down the hole and feel around for it.

#1167 35 days ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

Hm, odd. I have no issue removing it on this CII, same as an EBDLE.

Center panel has two slide angle brackets that must be pushed to the back of the cabinet...
The angle brackets are located to the left and right sides of the opening from the top back box.

#1168 35 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Center panel has two slide angle brackets that must be pushed to the back of the cabinet...
The angle brackets are located to the left and right sides of the opening from the top back box.

Got it! That square tab is the latch that holds the display panel in place. One on each side. Can be slid forward and back just like you said. Thanks! My EBDLE must have both brackets slid back always.

20201027_200751 (resized).jpg

#1169 35 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Center panel has two slide angle brackets that must be pushed to the back of the cabinet...

Neat! I didn't notice those. I was wondering though because it seemed silly that there wouldn't be something to prevent theft if on location.

#1170 33 days ago

Another dumb question. When the ball goes into the inlanes, the transition to the flippers is pretty clunky. Is that due to the gate or the little plastic that is there, or is it supposed to be much more smooth?

#1171 32 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Is that due to the gate or the little plastic that is there

New plastics made all difference on mine. Was clunky before, smooth after. One of the two original pieces definitely had a lil chunk of the corner missing.

#1172 32 days ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

New plastics made all difference on mine. Was clunky before, smooth after. One of the two original pieces definitely had a lil chunk of the corner missing.

I was considering getting plastic protectors because of this.

#1173 32 days ago

Just order the cliffies for it. Once adjusted, plays awsome

#1174 31 days ago
Quoted from Tallon:

Just order the cliffies for it. Once adjusted, plays awsome

Sweet! I didnt know they existed.

#1175 31 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Sweet! I didnt know they existed.

yeah, they dont look like much but they really work and he even thought about the light having to some thru

1 week later
#1176 23 days ago

Is there a setting to make the vertical drop targets have a memory and not reset every ball?

#1177 23 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Is there a setting to make the vertical drop targets have a memory and not reset every ball?

The in-line targets of the Queens Chamber? I don't believe there is a setting to keep them from resetting after each ball. Definitely doesn't have the individual memory plungers like the 1-2-3-4 targets do.

There is a setting to retain the value of the in-line targets throughout the game (e.g. if you get it to 50K on the first ball, then on your second ball the first/closest target will score 50k).

2 weeks later
#1178 8 days ago

Joined the Centaur club back in September. Definitely wasn’t cheap but, it has a new old stock playfield, near mint original glass and super nice original cabinet. Threw in a pinball pro speaker, LED’s, NVRAM, and some clear Titan rubbers. Works perfectly and fits in nicely with my collection. DESTROY CENTAUR!!!

A2621F6D-BAB3-4689-94D7-E761FF1A214A (resized).jpegD6FFE322-0896-4E54-98E0-85F8273F3AF9 (resized).jpegEEB663E6-D4C9-478A-9027-B9BC4E175432 (resized).jpegF30A6E53-26A3-49FF-B803-04C82DF743E0 (resized).jpeg

#1179 7 days ago
Quoted from Kevster219:

Joined the Centaur club back in September. Definitely wasn’t cheap but, it has a new old stock playfield, near mint original glass and super nice original cabinet. Threw in a pinball pro speaker, LED’s, NVRAM, and some clear Titan rubbers. Works perfectly and fits in nicely with my collection. DESTROY CENTAUR!!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Beautiful Game! Did you cut a larger hole in bottom of cab for the larger speaker or just mount it as is?

#1180 6 days ago

While I was working on my Centaur II's backbox, most of the original light baffles broke into pieces. They were extremely brittle. Only one survived.

My friend did me a huge favour and 3d-printed me a set. In the only color right for Centaur II.

Screenshot_20201126-151840_WhatsApp (resized).jpg
Screenshot_20201126-152344_WhatsApp (resized).jpg
Screenshot_20201126-152333_WhatsApp (resized).jpg
IMG-20201126-WA0011 (resized).jpeg

#1181 6 days ago

Does anybody have any experience in flame polishing Centaur II's display panel?

Mine has quite a few scratches on it that I would love to get rid of, but I am not sure if the material the panel is made of lends itself for flame polishing.

Many thanks in advance for sharing your experience!

#1182 4 days ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Does anybody have any experience in flame polishing Centaur II's display panel?

I asked this same question in the Eight Ball Deluxe thread figuring it was more likely that an EBDLE owner would've restored their panel than most C2 owners.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-owner-club-guests-welcome-as-well/page/68#post-5884415

Wet sanding with fine grit paper and a final polish seems to be the answer. I have yet to do it to my C2, but I plan on getting to it eventually.

#1183 3 days ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

I asked this same question in the Eight Ball Deluxe thread figuring it was more likely that an EBDLE owner would've restored their panel than most C2 owners.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-owner-club-guests-welcome-as-well/page/68#post-5884415
Wet sanding with fine grit paper and a final polish seems to be the answer. I have yet to do it to my C2, but I plan on getting to it eventually.

Thanks a lot! That was exactly what I was looking for. The result on that EBDLE looks awesome.

Will you post the result of your C2's panel once it is done? I will do that as well.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 69.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 9.00
Cabinet Parts
Third Coast Pinball
$ 259.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
$ 30.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
$ 149.00
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
There are 1183 posts in this topic. You are on page 24 of 24.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside