(Topic ID: 48888)

Centaur Club.....Members Only!


By vster23

7 years ago



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  • 1,104 posts
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  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by pinster68
  • Topic is favorited by 73 Pinsiders

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There are 1104 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 23.
#1051 7 months ago

Is the SIA board working? Any echo?

#1052 7 months ago
Quoted from jj44114:

Is the SIA board working? Any echo?

Yes, there is echo and distortion. Although no perceptible changes when I twiddle the 2 knobs.

#1053 7 months ago

The delay knob should change the duration of the echo. You should easily notice it. Press the selftest on the S&T board, and while running remove the J1 connector from the SIA board. You should have low volume with no echo. If the echo doesn’t change, the SIA board isn’t running.

#1054 7 months ago
Quoted from jj44114:

The delay knob should change the duration of the echo. You should easily notice it. Press the selftest on the S&T board, and while running remove the J1 connector from the SIA board. You should have low volume with no echo. If the echo doesn’t change, the SIA board isn’t running.

Thanks, I have a repro say it again but looked at the original and appears J1 is the 5 pin on the top of mine. Will report back later with my findings.

#1055 7 months ago

well usually i bad hum indicates a bad capacitor......it might be on the solenoid driver board, that big cap in the center......but it could be caps on the squalk and t6alk board.....get a cap kit and replace them all.....

1 week later
#1056 6 months ago

My friend just bought a Centaur and we can find no info in the manual on what the pitch should be set at.
anyone know what it should, or where it plays best at

thanx

#1058 6 months ago
Quoted from Startek2:

6 to 7 degrees

We tried running it at 6.5 degrees but had issues with the ball popping up hitting the glass a lot and jumping over the flippers.
We had to put a 3/4" board under the back legs to get it to 6.5 degrees, because without the board we could only get to 5.5-5.8 degrees.
we were wondering if it had the wrong legs or if were meant to be run at lower pitch

#1059 6 months ago
Quoted from Joe-Ker:

We tried running it at 6.5 degrees but had issues with the ball popping up hitting the glass a lot and jumping over the flippers.
We had to put a 3/4" board under the back legs to get it to 6.5 degrees, because without the board we could only get to 5.5-5.8 degrees.
we were wondering if it had the wrong legs or if were meant to be run at lower pitch

What are you using to determine pitch? Are you taking the reading from the glass or playfield surface? The correct pitch should be around 6 degrees and done from the surface of the playfield. That era of Bally uses the standard size legs (28 1/2"). To achieve proper pitch the front legs are usually flush with the leg levelers while the backs are showing about an inch of thread.

#1060 6 months ago

4.5 degrees

#1061 6 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

What are you using to determine pitch? Are you taking the reading from the glass or playfield surface? The correct pitch should be around 6 degrees and done from the surface of the playfield. That era of Bally uses the standard size legs (28 1/2"). To achieve proper pitch the front legs are usually flush with the leg levelers while the backs are showing about an inch of thread.

I used the IPhone app between the flippers on the playfield the measure pitch. the glass on that machine is near parallel with playfield also. The Glass actually seems to be higher in the front than the rear, but only very small amount

#1062 6 months ago

I found a NIW Mirrored Centaur plastics set and am wondering how they are compared to the original repro plastics as they present on a game? Are they worth the upgrade or no? I've never seen them in person.

#1063 6 months ago
Quoted from Joe-Ker:

We tried running it at 6.5 degrees but had issues with the ball popping up hitting the glass a lot and jumping over the flippers.
We had to put a 3/4" board under the back legs to get it to 6.5 degrees, because without the board we could only get to 5.5-5.8 degrees.
we were wondering if it had the wrong legs or if were meant to be run at lower pitch

You might consider swapping out the rear legs to a set of legs from a Bally bingo since they are a bit taller (about 1 1/2”) they would provide more adjustment and if nothing else the casters could be wound all the way in and the game would still have a nice pitch to it. You must have read my mind because I’ve been thinking about this same issue, my OCD wants all four casters wound all the way in and still have the right pitch-plus or minus, so for me that means taller legs in the back.

#1064 6 months ago
Quoted from Cobray:

I found a NIW Mirrored Centaur plastics set and am wondering how they are compared to the original repro plastics as they present on a game? Are they worth the upgrade or no? I've never seen them in person.

I will answer .
I purchased a set of mirrored plastics and they look great when the pin is not on..

If you like how the original look with how the light shines though the plastic ..

See pic slingshot is original and the plastic between the flipper is a mirrored plastic..

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#1065 6 months ago
Quoted from Joe-Ker:

We tried running it at 6.5 degrees but had issues with the ball popping up hitting the glass a lot and jumping over the flippers.
We had to put a 3/4" board under the back legs to get it to 6.5 degrees, because without the board we could only get to 5.5-5.8 degrees.
we were wondering if it had the wrong legs or if were meant to be run at lower pitch

I don’t recall the manual ever stating a pitch. I’ve used 5.5 for all my classic Bally pins, with balanced results.

1 month later
#1066 4 months ago

Buyer just backed out on my nice players Centaur. Resisted and dropped the price down to 3400. Located on marketplace.

#1067 4 months ago

here are some looks at my Centaur coin door restoration...and a couple before pics

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#1068 4 months ago

ok so i see a nice cpr playfield that kruzman worked on for $1500, i see a populated playfield for $500 bucks......so hey guys what do you think a completely restored centaur playfield is worth? is it worth it to just create a centaur machine from this? how much is too much for a blank new playfield?

#1069 4 months ago
Quoted from Startek2:

ok so i see a nice cpr playfield that kruzman worked on for $1500, i see a populated playfield for $500 bucks......so hey guys what do you think a completely restored centaur playfield is worth? is it worth it to just create a centaur machine from this? how much is too much for a blank new playfield?

IF you can find a Kruzman for that price that is a steal

1 week later
#1070 4 months ago

ok i'm coming around the bend on this one....coin door done and voodoo glass installed https://m.facebook.com/mark.rogan/videos/10219090352663893/

#1071 4 months ago

Hey guys. I'm considering selling my Centaur and need a price check. I figure this group would know best. It has been restored with new playfield, new plastics, new targets, new lane guides & posts, new legs, comet sunlight leds at inserts & backbox. Cabinet is respectable and un-restored. Backglass is excellent with no flaking and only a couple tiny scratches. Good displays. Clean boards. All dialed in and plays great.

Folder with the pics:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bvnmg0dawan8cz9/AAAGarK3BKUySL2-Mho8JR0wa?dl=0

I aim to price fairly for a reasonably quick sale.

#1072 4 months ago

Here is my centaur that I am restoring . Original playfield touched up and cleared. Re glued the inserts.painted shooter lane black.

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#1073 4 months ago

I like the black shooter lane. Always kicked myself for not buying one of the CPR playfields with the white shooter lane.

#1074 4 months ago
Quoted from Startek2:

here are some looks at my Centaur coin door restoration...and a couple before pics[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Need the solder lug for the spring. Looks good.

2 weeks later
#1075 3 months ago

For anyone who is changing their bulbs, I found it to be much easier to access the 4 green arrow inserts that I initially thought.

Instead of removing the entire drop target mechanism, I realized I could just remove the coil bracket instead. I found it was much easier to access the head bolts with a small allen wrench with a philips head, instead of trying to get the socket wrench to catch the hex screw on the entire mech. Also no desoldering of any wires needed.

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#1076 3 months ago

I'm looking for a shooter gauge. For Centaur the PN is P-6359-53 .

Mine has always been broken with a "mod" to make it work. But now that I have a new playfield it is leading to inconsistent ball launch

I will take any Bally that would fit a Centaur and figure out a decal for it. Let me know if you can help me or know someone who can

Thanks,

Kenny

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#1077 3 months ago

I think I have a centaur one. Pm me.

1 month later
#1078 74 days ago

I am looking for two gates for my Centaur restoration. Anyone have a set to sale, or know the proper gate length?

Thanks!

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#1079 73 days ago

I'm in the club...maybe? Does it count if it's a scratch-build game cobbled together from disparate parts?

I'm shoving this Centaur II PF into a Skateball cab, and they definitely use different playfield bracing technologies. Can someone take pictures of the hinge bracket in their Centaur (fits into the receiver in the attached pic) and give me a dimension from the hinge-pin center to cabinet bottom? It looks like the Centaur PF is sitting way too low in the back on the existing Skateball blocks.

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#1080 73 days ago
Quoted from hepgeek:

I'm in the club...maybe? Does it count if it's a scratch-build game cobbled together from disparate parts?
I'm shoving this Centaur II PF into a Skateball cab, and they definitely use different playfield bracing technologies. Can someone take pictures of the hinge bracket in their Centaur (fits into the receiver in the attached pic) and give me a dimension from the hinge-pin center to cabinet bottom? It looks like the Centaur PF is sitting way too low in the back on the existing Skateball blocks. [quoted image][quoted image]

Centaur uses the old Bally EM support brackets from the 1960's to early 1970's.
Twin Win and earlier games...
right-- A-3017
left --- A-3017-1

#1081 73 days ago

Excellent! Thank you for the info.

#1082 73 days ago

I had a Centaur a long time ago but it had a weird glitch where during the multiball shooter launches, sometimes it would get confused and shoot one more ball than it was supposed to and it always bugged me. Tried fooling with the switch in the launch lane, the actuator wire to lengthen the closure, using a new switch, nothing fixed it. Still had the problem years later when I sold it. Now I wonder if it maybe it was the capacitor on the switch but can't remember if it even had one or anything about that. This was before the internet when you could get easier help. Only time I simply gave up on a problem. I still wish I had figured that one out!

#1083 73 days ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

I had a Centaur a long time ago but it had a weird glitch where during the multiball shooter launches, sometimes it would get confused and shoot one more ball than it was supposed to and it always bugged me. Tried fooling with the switch in the launch lane, the actuator wire to lengthen the closure, using a new switch, nothing fixed it. Still had the problem years later when I sold it. Now I wonder if it maybe it was the capacitor on the switch but can't remember if it even had one or anything about that. This was before the internet when you could get easier help. Only time I simply gave up on a problem. I still wish I had figured that one out!

I found that the 1st trough micro switch is always problematic.
During my years in the arcades, I got to work on a Centaur that had
multi-ball launch issues... I installed a flat blade actuator micro switch and
it seemed to solve the problem.

#1084 67 days ago

hey guys i bought a stencil kit from pinball pimp but kinda chickened out on doing the cabinet restoration. yes it has bumps and bruises but I think the biggest issue is me being afraid to screw it up! Has anyone done this and how hard was it? what was the most difficult part about it?

#1085 67 days ago
Quoted from Startek2:

hey guys i bought a stencil kit from pinball pimp but kinda chickened out on doing the cabinet restoration. yes it has bumps and bruises but I think the biggest issue is me being afraid to screw it up! Has anyone done this and how hard was it? what was the most difficult part about it?

My friend who restores lots of games said he will never paint another centaur cabinet. So I’d say hard haha. I’m in your same boat, playfield will be swapped. It doesn’t matter if the cabinet is perfect. I’ll survive.

#1086 67 days ago

Its one of the easier cabs to paint. With the right silver metallic paint, no problem, easy cover on the black. Very little red. The most important part is the prep before painting, as usual.

#1087 67 days ago
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#1088 66 days ago
Quoted from jj44114:

Its one of the easier cabs to paint. With the right silver metallic paint, no problem, easy cover on the black. Very little red. The most important part is the prep before painting, as usual.

Fathom playfield in the garage?

#1089 66 days ago

Good eye.

#1091 62 days ago

I could use some help if possible. I posted in the Tech forum for help on my Centaur II.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/centaur-2-help-possible-switch-matrix-issue

2 weeks later
#1092 43 days ago

I'm restoring a Centaur that came to me without upper playfield parts. I'm almost done, but I need the three wire gate assemblies and the upper right ball gate assembly.

Just thought I'd ask if anyone here has any spares to sell? Thanks!

2 weeks later
#1093 25 days ago

Has anybody tried to swap a Centaur PF into a Centaur I PF and vice versa?

#1094 23 days ago
Quoted from Methos:

Has anybody tried to swap a Centaur PF into a Centaur I PF and vice versa?

No issues. Same board and connectors. The only difference between the two build wise is a different style of plastic playfield posts and some of the drops were different colors.

#1095 23 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

No issues. Same board and connectors. The only difference between the two build wise is a different style of plastic playfield posts and some of the drops were different colors.

I apologize, I meant to say switching a play field from a Centuar 1 into a Centaur II.

I read on an old thread that some of the connectors are not the same.

3 weeks later
#1096 2 days ago

I'm in the Club! Picked up a players Centaur cheap on a midnight run.

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#1097 2 days ago
Quoted from Methos:

I apologize, I meant to say switching a play field from a Centuar 1 into a Centaur II.
I read on an old thread that some of the connectors are not the same.

Just did the swap from Centaur II to a Centaur cab. You need to create a wiring harness for the lamp insert board/displays or modify an existing harness. Its time consuming but not overly difficult - all of the info is in the schematic to match the wire colors to an existing harness or build your own.

#1098 2 days ago
Quoted from Xenon75:

Just did the swap from Centaur II to a Centaur cab. You need to create a wiring harness for the lamp insert board/displays or modify an existing harness. Its time consuming but not overly difficult - all of the info is in the schematic to match the wire colors to an existing harness or build your own.

Thanks.

#1099 16 hours ago

Just picked up this Centaur. It's my first Bally. I've got power to the Gi and a single orange dot on each display. The game isn't booting. Before I drive in to deep, I wanted to ask a couple questions. There is some corrosion on the battery. What are the signs and symptoms that it's bad? What do you replace it with? I checked all my fuses. All appear good and I replaced most of them anyway. So, I'm wondering if the power board is bad.

Thank you

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#1100 15 hours ago

The signs are that it is the original or at least a very old battery, get it outta there! Go for an nvram or at least a remote battery.

That rectifier board looks like it’s been worked on so I’d redo that too.

How many flashes on the mpu led when you turn the game on?

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