(Topic ID: 48888)

Centaur Club.....Members Only!

By vster23

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 1,435 posts
  • 238 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 22 days ago by Dakine747
  • Topic is favorited by 96 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

AEE0F422-72E5-4CE0-BF1C-60ED3EC0F2FF (resized).jpeg
FAE2643A-3E16-464E-BB49-A9C95D362685 (resized).jpeg
8F085A61-4E7F-4335-8FC9-BF834F854D9A (resized).jpeg
20211111_205237 (resized).jpg
075F52AA-C823-494E-A099-451058F29751 (resized).png
switch v2 (resized).jpg
centaur_champer_normal_ball (resized).jpg
Centaur playfield (resized).jpeg
Centaur (resized).jpeg
Centaur and Fathom (resized).jpeg
Card (resized).png
It's (resized).png
1373963-1_large (resized).jpg
56DE9561-21AB-4035-BF1D-E9DE4FA2F323 (resized).jpeg
C2E062AF-E18C-479C-8D5D-5CB63430F832 (resized).jpeg
46AAEC07-B17D-4D49-B720-961F757E341B (resized).jpeg

There are 1,435 posts in this topic. You are on page 21 of 29.
#1001 2 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

The one at the eject point works too. I don't think it could be a switch issue, since the kick out cool should fire every time in test regardless of switches. Hoping it's u2. Otherwise I guess I'm looking at a broken wire that doesn't look broken, somewhere between board and coil.

Don’t forget the driver board only controls the relay on the solenoid expander. The relay completes the circuit to fire the coil. It’s designed this way because the coil draws too much current and would overload the driver transistor. The relay can handle the extra current so it becomes the “driver”.

With the backbox open and the playfield up, ground the tab of every driver transistor until you find the one that controls the kicker (ignore this if you already know which one it is - sorry, I don’t have the means to look it up right now). Make sure the relay clicks every time you ground the tab. You may have to disconnect the coil to hear it. If that’s good, run the coil test and make sure the relay clicks in every cycle. If it does, then you know your problem is with the high current contacts in the relay, the board connector, or the wiring to the coil. If the relay clicks intermittently during the coil test, then it is driver related.

#1002 2 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Don’t forget the driver board only controls the relay on the solenoid expander. The relay completes the circuit to fire the coil. It’s designed this way because the coil draws too much current and would overload the driver transistor. The relay can handle the extra current so it becomes the “driver”.
With the backbox open and the playfield up, ground the tab of every driver transistor until you find the one that controls the kicker (ignore this if you already know which one it is - sorry, I don’t have the means to look it up right now). Make sure the relay clicks every time you ground the tab. You may have to disconnect the coil to hear it. If that’s good, run the coil test and make sure the relay clicks in every cycle. If it does, then you know your problem is with the high current contacts in the relay, the board connector, or the wiring to the coil. If the relay clicks intermittently during the coil test, then it is driver related.

Oh will try this tonight, the relay doesn't appear on the board schematic. It's only for the kick out solenoid? If yes, then this sounds promising.

#1003 2 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Oh will try this tonight, the relay doesn't appear on the board schematic. It's only for the kick out solenoid? If yes, then this sounds promising.

Basically, this circuit is a copy of the flipper circuit (sans cabinet switches. )

Yes it’s only for the kick to playfield solenoid since it’s the only coil that cannot be controlled directly by the driver transistor.

#1004 2 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Don’t forget the driver board only controls the relay on the solenoid expander. The relay completes the circuit to fire the coil. It’s designed this way because the coil draws too much current and would overload the driver transistor. The relay can handle the extra current so it becomes the “driver”.
With the backbox open and the playfield up, ground the tab of every driver transistor until you find the one that controls the kicker (ignore this if you already know which one it is - sorry, I don’t have the means to look it up right now). Make sure the relay clicks every time you ground the tab. You may have to disconnect the coil to hear it. If that’s good, run the coil test and make sure the relay clicks in every cycle. If it does, then you know your problem is with the high current contacts in the relay, the board connector, or the wiring to the coil. If the relay clicks intermittently during the coil test, then it is driver related.

This was it, thank you! Just a loose connector on the relay board, didn't even know it was part of the system.

#1005 2 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

This was it, thank you! Just a loose connector on the relay board, didn't even know it was part of the system.

That’s great! Glad you didn’t have to pull any more chips.

#1006 2 years ago

New member here! I love this game! Any leads on a good playfield? Mine is roaches but I will still play it it’s a great game it deserves a new playfield on mine but a proud poppa here!

#1007 2 years ago

My Centaur will sometimes continue to try launching a ball after it's already been launched. Example: You complete all four guardian lanes, and a ball is launched. A couple of seconds after it's launched the game attempts to launch the ball 3 or 4 more times. (You can hear the coil firing, and the sound effect, and see the playfield GI blink.)

I think this happens because the game doesn't see the end of trough switch (switch 33) close when the ball zooms past it on the first launch. Apparently it's programmed to give up after 3 or 4 more launch attempts.

I have adjusted the switch and even replaced it, but it still happens about one in every 10 launches.

This error doesn't add points, but it's annoying, and since it makes the pf GI blink it also blinds the player if the room is dark (which is how Centaur should be played.)

QUESTION: Is this a common error? Does anyone have a Centaur on which this error NEVER happens? If so, I know I should be able to fix it.

Possible cause: The wire actuator on my end of trough switch was replaced at some point, and I think the replacement wire is shorter. This might prevent me from being able to adjust it or bend it into the optimal shape.

And before anyone asks, yes, I've replaced the switch capacitor. Thanks for any feedback you can provide.

#1008 2 years ago

My Centaur II has it too. Haven't tried to find out why yet.

Quoted from RoyGBev:

My Centaur will sometimes continue to try launching a ball after it's already been launched. Example: You complete all four guardian lanes, and a ball is launched. A couple of seconds after it's launched the game attempts to launch the ball 3 or 4 more times. (You can hear the coil firing, and the sound effect, and see the playfield GI blink.)
I think this happens because the game doesn't see the end of trough switch (switch 33) close when the ball zooms past it on the first launch. Apparently it's programmed to give up after 3 or 4 more launch attempts.
I have adjusted the switch and even replaced it, but it still happens about one in every 10 launches.
This error doesn't add points, but it's annoying, and since it makes the pf GI blink it also blinds the player if the room is dark (which is how Centaur should be played.)
QUESTION: Is this a common error? Does anyone have a Centaur on which this error NEVER happens? If so, I know I should be able to fix it.
Possible cause: The wire actuator on my end of trough switch was replaced at some point, and I think the replacement wire is shorter. This might prevent me from being able to adjust it or bend it into the optimal shape.
And before anyone asks, yes, I've replaced the switch capacitor. Thanks for any feedback you can provide.

#1009 2 years ago
Quoted from RoyGBev:

My Centaur will sometimes continue to try launching a ball after it's already been launched. Example: You complete all four guardian lanes, and a ball is launched. A couple of seconds after it's launched the game attempts to launch the ball 3 or 4 more times. (You can hear the coil firing, and the sound effect, and see the playfield GI blink.)
I think this happens because the game doesn't see the end of trough switch (switch 33) close when the ball zooms past it on the first launch. Apparently it's programmed to give up after 3 or 4 more launch attempts.
I have adjusted the switch and even replaced it, but it still happens about one in every 10 launches.
This error doesn't add points, but it's annoying, and since it makes the pf GI blink it also blinds the player if the room is dark (which is how Centaur should be played.)
QUESTION: Is this a common error? Does anyone have a Centaur on which this error NEVER happens? If so, I know I should be able to fix it.
Possible cause: The wire actuator on my end of trough switch was replaced at some point, and I think the replacement wire is shorter. This might prevent me from being able to adjust it or bend it into the optimal shape.
And before anyone asks, yes, I've replaced the switch capacitor. Thanks for any feedback you can provide.

Try the first ball trough switch? I modified the first ball trough switch to a long flat blade style...
It stopped all ball trough read problems; as far as I know.

#1010 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Try the first ball trough switch? I modified the first ball trough switch to a long flat blade style...
It stopped all ball trough read problems; as far as I know.

Possible part number that you have replaced with?

#1011 2 years ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

Possible part number that you have replaced with?

Try an outhole style switch that has a light weight actuator...
Or a Williams micro drop target style switch...
You have to modify to fit and you have to drill new mounting holes in the bracket?
I believe... it has been many years sense I have done it to a Bally Centaur.

#1012 2 years ago

Is there a current part available for the queens chamber drop target assembly drop target stop from the housing. The part I am looking for is the square metal piece with a screw coming through it, attached to the spring in the picture. This piece stops the target from over extending on the playfield. Thanks in advance!

725935CA-65AF-40B6-B4B2-9EC8455A3A97 (resized).jpeg
#1013 2 years ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

Is there a current part available for the queens chamber drop target assembly drop target stop from the housing. The part I am looking for is the square metal piece with a screw coming through it, attached to the spring in the picture. This piece stops the target from over extending on the playfield. Thanks in advance![quoted image]

You are going to have to find the part or have the part reproduced.

#1014 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

You are going to have to find the part or have the part reproduced.

I would need a part number to find it anywhere. And it’s not listed in the manual. Does anyone happen to have a part number?

#1015 2 years ago

After letting one go in 2013 ...
Have been looking for one ever since.
Unsure If it has been sited for a long time as it had a $1 coin in the coin box dated 2001...
941B635A-BDCF-4D0A-A681-365426A95E18 (resized).jpeg

#1016 2 years ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

I would need a part number to find it anywhere. And it’s not listed in the manual. Does anyone happen to have a part number?

Bally Nut & Spring Bracket
( Left Hand )
P-7939-1
Good luck.

#1017 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Bally Nut & Spring Bracket
( Left Hand )
P-7939-1
Good luck.

Thank you!

#1018 2 years ago

Any one know the part number(s) for the lock / cam / mechanism for the backbox? I have none of it, which bugs me a bit, and the manual doesn't identify parts besides electronic components.

#1019 2 years ago

If you have the part number. Check with Pinball resource. He has some things. All by part number.

#1020 2 years ago
Quoted from Fortytwo:

If you have the part number. Check with Pinball resource. He has some things. All by part number.

Pinball resource normally carry both the left & right bracket, I have enquired about these before. About $11.00 each from memory.

#1021 2 years ago

hey gang it is time for me to order an LED kit for my Centaur.....I have seen several videos of kitted machines but I would like to hear any suggestions from youze guys on who has the best kit or what you suggest?

1 week later
#1022 2 years ago

Anyone seen the new Geico commercials with "Motaur"? Wonder where they got the idea from?

mo-taur (resized).jpg
1 week later
#1023 2 years ago

hey gang does anyone have the files for the home version eeproms that they could send me? I can burn the chips, and I think I have them but if someone already has the patched files that would be easier for me......

#1024 2 years ago
Quoted from Startek2:

ey gang does anyone have the files for the home version eeproms that they could send me? I

PM me your email address and I'll send you what I have. Haven't burned them in a few years so not sure which files you need.

#1025 2 years ago

hey does anyone here have experience with glare free glass on a Centaur? b does it look better to the point it is worth the price?

#1026 2 years ago

I just got the playfield swap completed....feast your eyes on this

89730C87-9029-4311-9213-ED213326F03A (resized).jpegF7C89A26-C81B-402C-ABDC-B01388425902 (resized).jpeg
#1027 2 years ago

Damn! That new playfield looks awesome. I need to find some time to do my swap soon too.

#1028 2 years ago

Good move human!!

2 weeks later
#1029 2 years ago

ok one last victory lap for the playfield. the next thing is to rehab the cabinet..... https://m.facebook.com/mark.rogan/videos/10217350832936987/

1 week later
#1030 2 years ago

Shill post: The Classic Pinball Podcast has just dropped their latest episode on Centaur.

#1031 2 years ago

You're not shilling George. Any Centaur owner or future owner will like this episode. =)

#1033 2 years ago

Ok. I’m not. Lots of listeners so far. Thanks folks!

3 weeks later
#1034 2 years ago

Anyone send me a link to a switch im looking for... its the top middle rollover switch.
Thx!

1 week later
#1035 2 years ago

I wanted to offer my Centaur apron cards to the group that I recently created for an owner. I print on photo quality printer with OEM inks and high quality thick ultra-gloss OEM paper. I then coat with clear gloss vinyl for protection, razor cut, and color edges so you don't see white around the perimeter of the cards.

I sell the cards for $10 a set which includes US postage. If interested in purchasing, please PM me.

Centaur - Title (resized).jpgCentaur - Instruction (resized).jpg
#1036 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I wanted to offer my Centaur apron cards to the group that I recently created for an owner. I print on photo quality printer with OEM inks and high quality thick ultra-gloss OEM paper. I then coat with clear gloss vinyl for protection, razor cut, and color edges so you don't see white around the perimeter of the cards.

I sell the cards for $10 a set which includes US postage. If interested in purchasing, please PM me.[quoted image][quoted image]

Would you happen to have a pic of the cards installed?
Also do u have any mods for centaur?

1 week later
#1037 2 years ago

Quick question. What size spike post rubber do you use for the three spikes? And lastly. Does this rubber layout look correct? I followed the manual the best I could.
Thanks.

77AF46E7-87D5-4DEB-A575-2F0B2086C198 (resized).jpeg
#1038 2 years ago
Quoted from Fortytwo:

What size spike post rubber do you use for the three spikes?

1) the regular large size. Gottlieb ref. A-15705 27/64" o.d.
2) The top right rollover ring is off. The large ring should around four post, not three.
3) Take your 6th 2" ring and fit it around the right drop targets. Or/2-1/2" rubber ring.
Note: Bally doubles their playfield drop target rubber rings...
(check the games back and middle flyer pictures for clarifications).

#1039 2 years ago

Thanks. So to be clear the right top lane guide should be one sided then.
I’ll adjust tomorrow. Waiting for the lane guides and pop parts to come.

Next question. Does anyone have examples of red or black pop skirts on? I’m considering changing the color to spice it up a touch.

#1040 2 years ago
Quoted from Fortytwo:

So to be clear the right top lane guide should be one sided then.

Yup. The top left plastic guide rails are doubled (Bally part #C-693-11).
The far right plastic guide rail is single ( Bally part # C-694-11).
Note: Bally part # can be off.

#1041 2 years ago

I have an Austin Powers up for trade if anybody is looking to switch up to something more modern. I want in the club!

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/87182

#1042 2 years ago

original paint or new paint.........It's killin me....my original paint is not terrible but it is not perfect.....i sit here and i look at my glorious Centaur with its perfect looking CPR playfield replacement ready to go back in....i am working on restoring the coind door and the rest....i bought a stencil kit but I just am scared to death to screw this up!! What do you all think? would you rather see a Centaur with a flawless shiny new paint job, bondo, stencil cab or would you have much respect for an original cabinet with a few scrapes and scars? It's like do i replace the plunger or honor the years of play on the original plunger. What is important for you guys, the true fans? I think the new playfield honors the art and restores the game to its wonderous glory but how far does one go?

3 weeks later
#1044 2 years ago
Quoted from Startek2:

original paint or new paint.........It's killin me....my original paint is not terrible but it is not perfect.....i sit here and i look at my glorious Centaur with its perfect looking CPR playfield replacement ready to go back in....i am working on restoring the coind door and the rest....i bought a stencil kit but I just am scared to death to screw this up!! What do you all think? would you rather see a Centaur with a flawless shiny new paint job, bondo, stencil cab or would you have much respect for an original cabinet with a few scrapes and scars? It's like do i replace the plunger or honor the years of play on the original plunger. What is important for you guys, the true fans? I think the new playfield honors the art and restores the game to its wonderous glory but how far does one go?

I'd rather see an original cabinet myself! Sometimes when they are painted, they look too good, which ruins some of the originality

#1045 1 year ago

I'm in the club! Thanks to Yesh23 for helping me get one of my short list games.

Does anyone know what the ideal front/back tilt for the game is? I have eyeballed it so far and I think I'm close, but would love the opinion of the experts.

Also, proactively - anyone selling a CPR playfield, sign me up. I'm in this one for the long haul.

#1046 1 year ago

Bluespin may still have one

#1047 1 year ago

Ya I missed the CPR run as well. Someday. Not today.
While you guys are checking your bins. Does anyone have a spare triac that bolts to the power supply plate? It’s used to control GI. Mine had a leg ripped right out.

#1048 1 year ago
Quoted from stroupnp:

I'm in the club! Thanks to Yesh23 for helping me get one of my short list games.
Does anyone know what the ideal front/back tilt for the game is? I have eyeballed it so far and I think I'm close, but would love the opinion of the experts.
Also, proactively - anyone selling a CPR playfield, sign me up. I'm in this one for the long haul.

Ballpark 5.5 to 6 degrees. It's all personal preference. I think it was BigAl56 that said if the bottom of the cabinet is level, that was the intended slope from the factory.

#1050 1 year ago

Warning: Long-winded SS noob technical assistance request

My Centaur has a rather loud 60 khz hum that goes up and down with the volume control. It's quite annoying when the volume is at a reasonable level and increases from there.

Notes:

1. Everything appears to be grounded.

2. The hum goes away when I turn the speech potentiometer all the way down on the Squawk and Talk. Not a satisfactory fix!

3. The hum is not affected by the BG sound pot, I can crank it with speech down and all good.

4. The say it again appears to do nothing when I turn either pot on it.

I'm not a smart man, but I suspect it has to do something with the pictured mess of a wiring harness between the Say it Again and ST board, which has bare wires and a cocoon of electrical tape.

A couple questions:

1. I keep reading about the FF jumper on the ST board, which I presume is off since I get no sound if I remove the say it again connector. I'd like to remove the say it again from the chain to confirm the harness is the issue, but sound cuts off when I disconnect. I'm guessing closing jumper FF would allow me to power the ST without the say it again. So... where is jumper FF on the board, and how the heck do I close the connection to see if that makes the hum go away?

2. Can some kind soul post pictures of the standard harness between the ST and Say It Again so I can attempt to wire a new one after verifying that is the issue? I'm also happy to pay somebody smarter than myself to whip me up one, but that's kind of the coward's way out.

A million thanks in advance!

ST_1 (resized).jpgST_2 (resized).jpgST_3 (resized).jpg
There are 1,435 posts in this topic. You are on page 21 of 29.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside