Coin door wiring....
From left to right.
Hinge side first... start button side last.
--------------------------------------------
Coin NO.1___Coin NO.2_____Coin NO.3__ All ST1 [14] Red-Green wire.
[65] _______ [20]________[15]_____.
Brown-White____Blue________Red-White___.
TEST MODE......
#10 _______#11_________#9.

Thanks, hopefully I can understand that when I get home and look at the machine.
Does that mean that the diode is in the same position (switch tabs) on all the coin door switches?

Does that mean that the diode is in the same position (switch tabs) on all the coin door switches?
Yes.
_____Coin Micro Switch_______________
_________________________________
--------( )----[actuator]
---tab-------center tab---------- end tab.
Cathode------Anode______________________[Diode location]
___________ common _______return strobe.__[ Switch Strobe wiring]
____________ST1 [14]____________________[ Red-Green wire]

Thanks again ☺

I'm always wanting to improve things so I did this mod with exactly the parts you recommend, and wired the speakers in parallel as you did. It sounded terrible in my machine. The balance is weighed heavily toward the smaller speaker, and maybe the speech is a little clearer, but there's no noticeable bass component at all due to the big speaker being nearly silent. Also: There's an annoying high frequency component in the speech that is emphasized using the little speaker. A filter could be added but I'm 99% sure the factory stock S&T does make this sound (I've heard other S&Ts make it too).

Maybe one of us has defective parts somewhere, or maybe I have defective hearing, ha!

I went back to the factory speaker and am satisfied with the sound. I don't think any mod short of adding another amplifier will improve it.

For reference: I'm using the factory S&T board and have replaced all the caps with a Big Daddy kit (I think Great Plains has them as well), and this replacement Say It Again:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3809

The new Say It Again is a great product. My original SIA still works but it adds a lot of hiss to the final sound output. Reflowing connectors and recapping it didn't seem to help.

Given that they were using a little TDA2002 8-watt amplifier on the S&T, the stock speaker is a good match.

If you want to use an aftermarket speaker setup, buy a speaker level converter and a cheap receiver. Pull the wires off the factory speaker and feed them into the converter, run RCA cables to the receiver, then run speaker wires from the receiver to your new speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-RFHLC-Speaker-Signal-Adapter/dp/B009VTDVMU/ref=sr_1_15

The Centaur S&T has at least two phrases that were not used in the production game: The laugh, and "five side awards double". For the full set of phrases, press the test button on your S&T, or go here:

The Oliver home ROMs (which I highly recommend) make use of the laughing sound. It's used when the O target is dropped, and then another target is dropped but out of sequence (thereby forfeiting the 50K and multi-ball award).

"Try side awards double": reference for queens chamber.

I don't think it's "five" or "try". Doesn't sound exactly like either and neither makes complete sense. Sounds like "hive side awards double" to me, perhaps in reference to a "queen's hive" that didn't make it onto the final playfield artwork, and thus the corresponding speech was also omitted from the game? That area on the playfield is a dungeon, and it doesn't make sense that the queen's chamber would be a dungeon; my theory is that originally this area was to be the queen's hive, and the artwork changed to a dungeon before production. Would be a good question to ask Patla & Faris at an expo.

If you shoot the ball through the side two rollover buttons and hit the "boot-a-ball" and the ball
hits/drops a drop target, the award point value is double.

My Centaur, will rattle windows on the other side of my house. We used a drop down signal adapter like that, into one of the small dedicated amps (like Spooky uses in their games), a custom speaker box with a 8" woofer and silk dome tweeter, and crossover. It's ported out the bottom of the cabinet so the glass doesn't even rattle. The say it again on Centaur just shines at higher volumes with more bass. It's so much fun that I'm going to do the same thing to my Flash Gordon and possibly my Nitro I've been restoring.

I'm also trying to figure out how to make speaker boxes and port them out of the cabinet on some of my other new pins to stop the damn rattling of the glass, but I'm not sure if there is enough room in the cabinet to do it.

Available from Cliff . Centaur orb release flap and ball guide protectors. Please contact Cliffy for details.

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I'm sorry your experience was not a good one with my recomended mod. I have all original boards with new capacitors, no hiss or distortion. Plenty of power coming from the game's amp circuit; only have the volume turned up about 1/3rd from zero. The two speakers are wired in parallel and simply divide the sound signal between them. The base cabinet, projecting sound out the bottom toward the floor, acoustically tends to resonate more of the low frequency sounds, but muffles the speech. By having a small, mid range speaker in the neck, behind the vent screen, you get the higher frequency sounds from the voice of the game projecting across the playfield glass more clearly. It's crystal clear on mine, but who knows what all the differences might be.

I did try a Pioneer powered subwoofer for boosting the base sounds, but it really does not provide a good result in my opinion, due to the say-it-again reverb. The game would really need to have the speech and music/sound effect channels separated in order to have a powered sub working effectively.

I could post a video of the sound quality, but I really don't think sound demos via Youtube are effective demonstrations.

In the manual it says that the slingshot rubbers should be 2"

I bought a rubber kit for mine and it came as per the manual with 6x 2" and 1x 2 1/2" but the 2" rubbers seem far too tight on the slings, they pull tight around the upper metal post of the sling which dents into the rubber and after less than 100 games the new rubber has broken at that post.

I put another new 2" rubber on it and left it for awhile and took it off without playing any games and you can see in the attached pic the big dent creating a weak spot.

So now I'm testing a new 2 1/2" rubber on that sling, it seems to fit better and after a couple of games I have not noticed any difference in the performance of the sling. If it tests well after more games and looks like it will last longer I will order more 2 1/2" rubber for the slings.

Has anyone else found the 2" sling rubbers break quickly? I can't see how 2" could be OK for anyone?

20171207_165444 (resized).jpg

Not a good quality rubber ring.
Centaur chart should be.....
1.) R-206-11 mini (3)
2.) R-243 5/16" (18)
3.) R-521 3/4" (3)
4.) R-521-1 1" (1)
5.) R-521-2 1 1/2" (1)
6.) R-521-3 2" (4)
7.) R-521-4 2 1/2" (3)
8.) R-533-1 flipper (2)

I installed lexan plastic protectors for the return lane plastic and finally had the idea to raise it similar to EBD.

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I see you have 3x 2 1/2" on your list of what you think the chart should be, I assume you agree then that the slingshots should be 2 1/2" not 2" like it says in the manual?

You may be correct that the rubber kit I bought is not the best quality, but that would surprise me as it was from one of the longest running and most reputable pinball parts stores in Australia RTBB. Are you just guessing it's poor quality or does my picture shows signs that it is inferior?

People who made these charts at Titan must have just copied the manual https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/990

I'm surprised more people are not discussing this issue.

Here is the page from the manual for reference.

Capture (resized).JPG

@Rat. I got to see this game when it was new on the showroom floor.
Note: Bally drop targets are doubled. Scrutinize the game's flyer very carefully.
Note: The games made in this era used ABC rubber rings, which have a smaller diameter.
That, the new rubber ring manufacturers have forgotten. As far as your slingshot kickers go...
I would relax the rubber rings before it is put on the posts. The kickers are a 2" size ring.
P.S. I have had a couple of bad 2" and 2 1/2" and even 1" rubber rings in the past.

What are you referring to?

The rubber rings.

Thanks for trying to help, I understand some of what you have said, but you are saying the slings are 2" then also the manual still has it wrong elsewhere and should say 3x 2 1/2 instead of one. So where do the other larger than recorded rings go if not on the slings? maybe you mean on C14 but my 2" fit and work fine on those.

I don't remember any Bally drops double ringed. Usually creates awkward play when they are.

That is because you probably do not have a Bally 1975 parts catalog.
Also, you probably did not go to the distributor shows back in 1980's when
Bally was still a business and could see a firsthand OEM product.

No just played hundreds of them in the arcades between 1975 and the late 90's.

I am still looking into this weird sound issue (listen to link in quote) that others reported having also so I thought I would report my progress so far.

I have replaced ALL the boards in the game with brand new repro boards including the soundboard and SIA board and it still makes this sound. I have replaced the connector on the sound board and ordered more to replace others also.

I have tracked down how I can force it to make the sound, if any of the first three inline drops in the chamber are down and I activate the left pop bumper and the top roll over together continuously it will make the sound, it doesn't seem to do it if just the fourth drop is down on its own.

I have run a new power wire for the pop bumper out of the harness, I was getting ghost pops with the flipper buttons so have separated the harness and run some new wires and almost eliminated that issue which it seems is caused EMI and is addressed in another thread on Pinside.

I'm thinking the sound issue could still somehow be EMI from the drop targets or rollover switch so I will try to trace the wires and look into that further. I checked the diodes inline on the drop switches which seemed ok and cleaned the contacts. All the wiring seems to be OK, I could not see where these switches are connected to a ground braid though?

Anyway it sure is a stubborn problem but I have not given up yet

I'm also still getting the occasional false slingshot fire with the flippers I will try to fix that too.

Another strange issue is that when I use the new squark and talk soundboard from Applejuice (which sounds great) the call outs stop when I press the flippers, so I have gone back to the old soundboard which doesn't do that as the new sound board didn't fix the issue I was trying to resolve anyway and just added another one.

I have already run new wires for the power to the flipper buttons and flipper solenoids looks like I will have to run new wires for the signal wires also.

False firing of things like Sling Shots and Thumper Bumpers usually indicate that the CPU is seeing a switch closure other than what is actually being hit. This often happens when the small disc caps are failing on the switches. Have you tried replacing all of them?

Likewise, if you have a bad switch diode or an incorrectly wired switch or a switch missing the diode (bypassed) then as you close more and more switches, you increase the potential for ghost switches to appear. Unfortunately, the Bally switch test ONLY shows you the lowest switch number it is seeing and there could be many others being seen that can't be displayed.

While you are thinking it might be EMI noise coming from firing a coil (flippers etc.), you also have to keep in mind that there are switch closures happening too (lane change on flippers). So, you might want to get the game set up and then pull the connectors on the solenoid driver board for coil outputs and then try your switch closures again WITHOUT the coils being fired. This might determine if its purely a switch matrix issue or if its actually related to the coils being energized.

Thanks CactusJack that is a great help.
I will try activating the same switches without the coils activating and see if I still get the sound issue.
I have not replaced all the caps or diodes, I am a slow noob with the soldering iron but I will give it a try if it becomes a last resort.

Hello centaur owners

I am looking for a nice condition bg for my
ct2..
I would be very happy to optain a high
resolution scan too..
with this i can make a new one.

pls contact me if you can help me with one
of these 2

thanks alot
Rob

Backglass resto has them. bgresto.com

I know, but they fail to show me what i
am buying..
i find that strange..

O.K. you get an image of the backglass art that is mounted on glass.
Then, you can add the trimming to it and install it into your game.
The product is like a silkscreen backglass, but it is not. It is, however, the next best thing.

I am looking to add Centaur to my collection once again, if anyone is thinking of moving one hit me up!

Having issues wiring up the magnet on a centaur II, can anyone send me a pic with the wiring. I know its an awkward shot but I'd appreciate it. thank you.

Here is a shot from Centaur (not Centaur II) which I am swapping right now.

On "this" Centaur there are 2 solder lugs screwed to the playfield near the main harness with a 1N4148 diode between them.

In the red circle, one solder lug has a double yellow power wire, the banded side of the diode, and a black wire from the magnet. The other solder lug has a grey with red stripe wire, the non-banded side of the diode and the other black wire from the magnet. I assume it is a diode BTW.

magnet (resized).jpg

magnet2 (resized).jpg

thank you for this. I assume it doesn't matter which black wire to either side of the lug?

It should not matter AS LONG AS you make sure the diode banded side is attached to the the black wire that has the "power" wire going to it.

Check out the other 2 lug coils in the game (kickers etc) and you should see the banded side of the diode attached to the lug with the power wire. As an aside, note that on almost every coil in (Bally and Williams) SS games these are 1N4004 diodes where the diode on my magnet is for some reason a 1N4148 which is normally used on switches. So not sure if they just used the same solder lugs as for the switches like the trough and the launch tunnel.

Hello, anyone have a spare B drop target? Broke mine yesterday! Thanks

sorry using mine2017-03-11 09.29.42 (resized).jpg

My player 2 display just went squirely on my Centaur II.
Where do I start to troubleshoot this? It was working fine and the game hasn't moved...

Cold solder joints on the display header pins. Happens all the time. While you're at it do the rest as they'll be next.

^This....and define squirrely.

By "squirrely" I mean there are only a few lines visible and you can't read the score... will try to re-flow the solder on the pins. Thank you for the reply!

I am in search of 2 original white 555 GI sockets with the staple down brackets like the one circled in red (bottom) in the attached picture. Swapping playfield so a good time to sort this out.

All my other sockets work great but I have 2 missing like the one in the picture also. Reading how so many people have replaced with 44 sockets, I am hoping there are some of the white ones lying around.

The screw in kind for the GI will work also, just trying to keep the white since they can be seen. Will buy more if that makes it worth your while.

Thanks for any help or leads,
Kenny

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I have a box of them that i harvested from an old playfield for this exact reason. I know everyone hates on them, but I've never had issues and I like things to match. Shoot my your address in a message and I'll mail you two.

Just a quick PSA, I'll have my fully restored/modded Centaur at TPF this year. It'll be in Keith Holbrook's booth since he did the final paint, playfield swap and assembly. I think any of you that have a Centaur will enjoy seeing and playing it and it may give you a few ideas.

Nice, I will definitely check it out.

Finally joined the club

CPR is doing another run of Centaur plastics (normal and mirrored) if anyone needs them

@ltcmdrobvious sent me what I needed no charge. People like this make the hobby great. I will be sure to pay it forward.

STILL trying to troubleshoot the crazy sound my Centaur sometimes makes that I linked to earlier, I have replaced all the boards with repros and it still does it so it must be wiring. I have been replacing diodes everywhere and rewiring new connectors in with no change until just now when I rewired a couple more connectors on the MPU board, not the sound is totally stuffed.

I thought I might have done a bad crimp but they seem ok, then I checked the schematic and on J3 on the MPU board I have a wire missing at position 12.
I have checked through the cab a couple of times and can't see it anywhere, I'm wondering if it was ever there on my game?
Could someone check their game please and tell me what this wire does and where it goes from the J3 as I am struggling to work it out on the schematic.
Pic of my connector and the schematic below

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