(Topic ID: 48888)

Centaur Club.....Members Only!

By vster23

8 years ago


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There are 1,435 posts in this topic. You are on page 16 of 29.
#751 4 years ago

Nope can't relax and get used to it the very next game it did it heaps and drove me mad.

Next week I'm going to try removing cleaning and reseating all the sound board chips. I will check for cold solder on the board while there.
If that doesn't work I will consider replacing the sound rom chips.
I will report back with progress.

#752 4 years ago

I think the problem might be caused by a poor connection at J1 on the S&T. I have had my Centaur for a long time and never heard that sound until recently - and now I was starting to get it quite a lot. I pulled the S&T to look for cold solder joints, but they all looked good. So I decided to reseat all the wires in the connector just by giving them all a firm push with a punch tool. That did the trick for me. I know they say those IDC connections can fail over time.

#753 4 years ago
Quoted from Joydivision:

I also can't understand why it was not all used when it was there to use.

The CPU was designed years before the S&T was. By program standards at the factory
A block of memory is spared for fixing software bugs. "Good software practices".
I asked that question about the S*T many years ago at Bally and they said at the time
that there is just not enough room in the ROMs.

#754 4 years ago
Quoted from Joydivision:

The home roms on Fathom are great too adding some extra speech phrases that were not originally used. I also can't understand why it was not all used when it was there to use.

Didn't Oliver use some of the previous unused sounds in his Centaur home ROM /27 ? I think he used the space from somewhere else to make the changes. Great ROM, I just don't remember what the sounds were before.

#755 4 years ago

Getting closer to being complete. Keith (Holbrook) had to scratch build a new light board and create the harness for it. Essentially this is about as close to new as you can get for a Centaur and he's doing a great job pulling it together.

It has a CPR mirrored Backglass in the photo, but I've found a NOS original Backglass that I'll put in it later. The CPR ones just aren't as sharp as the originals.

It'll have white XPIN led displays, chrome coin door and black chrome legs before it's done.

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IMG_3884 (resized).JPG

#756 4 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The CPU was designed years before the S&T was. By program standards at the factory
A block of memory is spared for fixing software bugs. "Good software practices".
I asked that question about the S*T many years ago at Bally and they said at the time
that there is just not enough room in the ROMs.

Ah, that makes sense, having to leave out some speech calls to save some CPU ROM space.

#757 4 years ago
Quoted from KJL:

Didn't Oliver use some of the previous unused sounds in his Centaur home ROM /27 ? I think he used the space from somewhere else to make the changes. Great ROM, I just don't remember what the sounds were before.

I wasn't aware or extra sounds added to the home ROM? I don't remember noticing any new sounds when I first put the home roms in.

#758 4 years ago
Quoted from Timmo:

I think the problem might be caused by a poor connection at J1 on the S&T. I have had my Centaur for a long time and never heard that sound until recently -

Will give it a go, mine also was fine for the first few years, never the sound at all, then it started & always happens at some point, even worse it repeats a lot sometimes, almost becomes constant.

#759 4 years ago

Looking forward to getting home and checking out my J1 to try to fix the sound, fingers crossed.

Could someone please post a pic or description of the striker plate on the under playfield ball launcher mech. Mine is two plates joined at a right angle leaving a "bum" groove in the middle of the strike plate. I'm thinking if that groove doesn't hit right in the middle of the ball then it would not push the ball straight foward. There is at least a mm or so of side to side movement here so that the mech doesn't bind which leaves the potential for an off centre strike.

Mine launches nice and strong about 30 times in a row and then I will get a few weak launches that only just make the playfield and fall down the right lane.
I have a new coil new sleeve, new mech bush, polished and adjusted rails.

#760 4 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Looking forward to getting home and checking out my J1 to try to fix the sound, fingers crossed.
Could someone please post a pic or description of the striker plate on the under playfield ball launcher mech. .

Is this what you mean? mine is off centre & their is only about 1.5mm sideways movement, so it's always off centre as in the pic. the balls launch perfectly every time, so I don't think being off centre is a problem with ball launches. 1 -1.5mm sideways movement is about normal.

If everything is nice & free moving on the mech & you get an occasional weak launch, it may be a dry join connector issue for the launch coil, SDB (J5 pin 14) that goes to the solenoid expander for this coil or possibly a dry join/problem on the solenoid expander board pins also for this coil.

Also some additional pics of that mech on this thread...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pre-purchase-centaur-advice-needed

IMG_7422 (resized).JPG
IMG_7424 (resized).JPG

#761 4 years ago

Excellent help thanks Joydivision
I will check my solenoid expander board. I read someone else post that their Centaur 2 didn't have a bulb wired to the expander and didn't have two diodes for the launch solenoid as it says on Pinrepair should be there yet it was working. Does yours have the bulb and two diodes one across the solenoid and one on the power in? It would help to know if mine is wired right or not when I check it tomorrow.

#762 4 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Excellent help thanks Joydivision
I will check my solenoid expander board. I read someone else post that their Centaur 2 didn't have a bulb wired to the expander and didn't have two diodes for the launch solenoid as it says on Pinrepair should be there yet it was working. Does yours have the bulb and two diodes one across the solenoid and one on the power in? It would help to know if mine is wired right or not when I check it tomorrow.

One diode for the coil & no bulb for the expander. Wiring should look like the pics. Coil should be AO-25-950.

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#763 4 years ago
Quoted from Joydivision:

I will check my solenoid expander board. I read someone else post that their Centaur 2 didn't have a bulb wired to the expander and didn't have two diodes for the launch solenoid as it says on Pinrepair should be there yet it was working. Does yours have the bulb and two diodes one across the solenoid and one on the power in? It would help to know if mine is wired right or not when I check it tomorrow.

Note: on Centaur, the solenoid expander relay board is used as a solenoid snubber assembly.
--- it is only used as a snubber on Centaur and Centaur2 only. No other Bally game is it used
--- this way.
--- No lamp SCR is used to drive the snubber; hence no extra lamp socket is present.
--- Q11 a SE9302 is used to drive the snubber assembly.
--- Q11 is located on the Voltage Regulator/ Solenoid Driver board.
--- The launch solenoid AO-25-950 has only one diode. It is not part of a matrix.

#764 4 years ago

Fantastic information thanks guys you have saved me wasting time acting upon information that is irrelevant to Centaur.

Next time you are in Tasmania feel free to drop round and I will shout a few drinks

#765 4 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Fantastic information thanks guys you have saved me wasting time acting upon information that is irrelevant to Centaur.
Next time you are in Tasmania feel free to drop round and I will shout a few drinks

Sounds good, thanks!

#766 4 years ago

So proud to become a Centaur owner! Previous owner had this one for 30 years. Looks mostly unmaintained. Can't wait to get her at 100%.

centaur (resized).jpg

#767 4 years ago

@AJNada
Congratulations!

#768 4 years ago

Ok. I need some help. I need to know what the round thing with the wires going to is on the bottom of Centaur. I'd also kind of like to know what it does and most importantly where to get one.

I'm going to go look through the manual and schematics but thought I'd reach out here too.

IMG_3906 (resized).JPG

#769 4 years ago

It's called a triac, it relates to the gi flashing on & off that Centaur does.
They are pretty reliable.

You can read about them here...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-triac-questions

#770 4 years ago
Quoted from SilverballNut:

Ok. I need some help. I need to know what the round thing with the wires going to is on the bottom of Centaur. I'd also kind of like to know what it does and most importantly where to get one.

Oh LORD, that is your G.I. Triac. The Triac allows A.C. current to go in either direction.
The board that drives it is located on the playfield by the center drop targets.

#771 4 years ago

Thanks guys. Appreciate it. May be playing mine this weekend. If not it's close.

#772 4 years ago

As long as we're on the subject of the Centaur triac......should there be heat sink paste applied between the triac and the transformer/rectifier plate when installing it, the same way the bridge rectifiers get paste between them and the plate? Mine looked like it had the crusty white remains of h.s. paste when I removed it, not sure if that was originally there though.

#773 4 years ago

Yes, just a little. Remember you have a proximately twenty volts ac going through
-- the device.

#774 4 years ago

Some more pics. We are getting closer. Still waiting on some chrome but Keith will be starting to fire it up today.

As an FYI. The speaker box did have to get notched to clear a drop assembly but it was close.

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#775 4 years ago
Quoted from SilverballNut:

Some more pics. We are getting closer. Still waiting on some chrome but Keith will be starting to fire it up today.
As an FYI. The speaker box did have to get notched to clear a drop assembly but it was close.

Is the Apron original or did you need to do something to make it look nice? Mine has a faded area like something dripped on it and wondering how overlays look on this game.

#776 4 years ago
Quoted from KJL:

Is the Apron original or did you need to do something to make it look nice? Mine has a faded area like something dripped on it and wondering how overlays look on this game.

This apron came off another Centaur I had and is original. It's been cleaned and some minor touch up paint. When they remake the Centaur aprons, I'll buy one and switch it out, but it looks pretty darn nice already.

#777 4 years ago

So it's essentially done. A little more play testing and I'll pick it up this weekend. Once I get it back to my place I'll probably put the NOS Backglass in. It currently has the cpr
Mirrored Backglass in it.

IMG_4026 (resized).JPG

IMG_4027 (resized).JPG

#778 4 years ago

The original glass all the way!

1 week later
#779 4 years ago
Quoted from Timmo:

I think the problem might be caused by a poor connection at J1 on the S&T.

I bought an IDC connector punch tool and pushed my wires in tight in J1 but that didn't help, yesterday a friend came over and replaced the connector with a new one and it still makes the sound that wasn't the issue for me unfortunately. I'm going to get a new S&T board from mypinballs when he does his next batch, fingers crossed that will fix it and give me an overall nicer cleaner sound also.

My under playfield ball launch problem is almost totally fixed now, I reflowed a couple of pin on the solenoid driver board and cleaned all the connectors and pushed the wires down in the IDCs and it seems one of those things helped. But it's still not quite as good as it could be, I'm getting a new solenoid driver board and expander and power rectifier board so once again that should sort that. I will sell my old boards later to recoup some of the costs, I know some people like to keep the originals going and would think what I'm doing is sacrilege, I do keep old boards in my other games, but Centaur is giving me some trouble and I want it playing as well as possible and reliably so that's what I'm doing.

I have installed a playfield protector which I think looks great, almost as good as having a nice new clearcoat, but it does seem to be causing a few more airballs especially from the slingshots. I put washers under the slingshot posts to raise them a bit and that has helped a bit but I'm still getting some airballs.
Do others find that the soft white rubbers dent on the sharp curve of the metal post at the top of the slingshots? It looks like they would wear very quickly there, I might try black rubbers (although I prefer the look of white) and see if they hold up better and maybe even reduce my airballs? I will report back my findings when I get round to it.

Does anyone how many balls per game (3 or 5) Centaur was set for in the dips from the factory? My friend says it should be a 5 ball game and I have mine set as 3. I prefer all my pins to be set as three but out of interest I would like to know what it was set at factory.

#780 4 years ago

This pic is the result of an airball and the ball getting trapped in between the glass and slingshot plastic, this has happened about three times in the last couple of weeks. I'm going to put plastic protectors on that will raise and stiffen the slingshot plastics which should stop this.

sdfzI0w (resized).jpg

#781 4 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Does anyone how many balls per game (3 or 5) Centaur was set for in the dips from the factory? My friend says it should be a 5 ball game and I have mine set as 3

I don't know that true answer but I played this game in the arcades in the early 80s and all SS games were 3 ball and all EMs were 5 ball at the several locations I played. I doubt I have played any early SS that was 5 ball recently.

#782 4 years ago

If you look really closely at the instruction card on this original flyer it shows this game is set to 3 balls, that may be as close as we get to proof.

http://flyers.arcade-museum.com/?page=flyer&db=pinballdb&id=659&image=3

#783 4 years ago

Any game lasting longer than 3.5 minutes, and you are losing money.
Factory suggested setting at the time was 3 balls @ 50¢ per game.
Or an extra game if you put in a whole dollar.

#784 4 years ago

Does anyone have measurements on the shooter lane gate(ASE-2250-99)? I have to fab one up since they are unobtanium.

#785 4 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Does anyone how many balls per game (3 or 5) Centaur was set for in the dips from the factory? My friend says it should be a 5 ball game and I have mine set as 3.

In your country, Pinball was 5 balls per game in the era when Centaur came out.

#786 4 years ago

I was playing pinball in Australia in the 80s although I will admit I was more likely to play arcade games.

From what I remember there were a mix of 3 and 5 ball games but I thought most were set at 3.

When pinballs went up to 40c a game some ops changed to 5 balls, but I think that would have been a few years after Centaur?

Once again I am just going from memory and I am sure it would have been different in different states and venues.

2 weeks later
#787 4 years ago

Can anyone please post some pics of the slings?

I am trying to work out which posts are used.

I know the lower post on each sling is a red plastic post, but what is used at the top and the one under the plastic.

#788 4 years ago

Not my photo, but here you go.

cent (resized).jpg

#789 4 years ago
Quoted from galaga50:

but what is used at the top and the one under the plastic.

The top mini post is a through hole post that has a nut and external tooth lock washer attached to it (under the playfield).

#790 4 years ago

Could someone please tell me if this behaviour is normal?

Occasionally if I get the last flashing ORBS target and lose the ball straight away it will release the new ball from under the playfield as it should but end the game for losing the last ball at the same time. So the game ends and you watch the newly released ball drain as you have no flippers.

I'm wondering if this just happens sometimes and is bad luck due to timing or if maybe it's due to ball trough switch issues? mine seems to be adjusted and working ok but I have had to fiddle with them and adjust the wires so perhaps it's not quite right? multiball launch is working fine normally.

#791 4 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

ball trough switch issues?

The 4th trough switch could be sticky, it could not be opening up at the same time the ball closes the outhole switch.

#792 4 years ago

Thanks vec-tor I will check that switch, they are tricky to get the wire adjusted right.

#793 4 years ago

Looking at one for sale. Good back glass, worn playfield. Complete but not working. What's it worth?

#794 4 years ago

Does anyone remember, or have a picture of a Centaur with a BV? If you look at the spacing of the dots around the coin door you'll see the spacing is a bit off at the dead center. The picture attached is from a Vector with a factory BV door.

Rumour has it they made some Centaurs as well, but have yet to find the elusive BV Centaur!

BA (resized).jpg

#795 4 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The top mini post is a through hole post that has a nut and external tooth lock washer attached to it (under the playfield).

and thanks jibmums for the photo

So the top post doesn't even support the plastic- its the one underneath!
I bought a C II project that had no red posts or plastics on the pf (had been removed) so I don't know how it looked.

And here's the million dollar question - does centaur II use the 1 3/16" star posts?
There's been lots of posts about which posts to use lol

The metal posts used behind the centre drop targets are that size so I'm guessing the red posts are the same height?

#796 4 years ago

hello..
I bought an ct2 with a very damaged backglass.. impossible to restore.
so only option is to find a nice one..
or... reproduce de backglass..
i friend if mine is very gifted an can do this..
what i need is a very high res scan of an
original one in good condition..
so if someone could help me i can make
a nice backglass for my centaur 2
thanks
Rob

1 week later
#797 4 years ago

Could someone please post a pic of the wiring and diode on the centre coin door micro switch?

#798 4 years ago
Quoted from galaga50:

And here's the million dollar question - does centaur II use the 1 3/16" star posts?

Note: Bally is part of Midway at the time Centaur II is made. The ribbed posts that Bally used are now out of fashion.
-- Star posts are in! From Marco Specialties 03-8269-9 Post #6 1 3/16"
-- ref. Data East part No. 550-5033-02.
-- All Centaur IIs are made with #6 1 3/16" red star posts.

#799 4 years ago
Quoted from rjsoeps:

I bought an ct2 with a very damaged backglass.. impossible to restore.
so only option is to find a nice one..

Note: bgresto.com has copies of Centaur II backglass.
-- They can reproduce a backglass for you.

#800 4 years ago

To make my question easier now not requiring pictures.

Is the middle coin door micro switch wired the same as the right side coin door or the same as the far left ball trough switch please?

There are 1,435 posts in this topic. You are on page 16 of 29.

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