(Topic ID: 48888)

Centaur Club.....Members Only!


By vster23

6 years ago



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  • 1,022 posts
  • 183 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by jibmums
  • Topic is favorited by 66 Pinsiders

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There are 1022 posts in this topic. You are on page 12 of 21.
#551 2 years ago

Thanks Hougie. Good idea to borrow one from the coin mech.

#552 2 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

The wireform fell off this switch that is just at the front right edge of the playfield. Found the wire in the cabinet but no idea how it is supposed to interact with the ball. The position of the switch mounting does not seem to allow it to interact with any balls. I assume this is somehow for the multuball system. Anyone with a photo of the correct looking swtich and its wireform would be a hero to me.

Here's a couple of shots, hope this helps. You can also make your own wireforms using old springs.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/make-your-own-microswitch-actuator-wire

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#553 2 years ago

I'm officialy in the Club !!
Amazing pinball art.

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#554 2 years ago

Welcome to the club!

#555 2 years ago
Quoted from HPR:

I'm officialy in the Club !!
Amazing pinball art.

Nice Playfield. Is it original or a reproduction?

#556 2 years ago

I've wanted a Centaur for a long time. I even have "bad move, human" as my text tone on my phone. Finally picked one up today at the York show. She needs a bit of work but the playfield was mylar'd so there's not too much wear and that's biggie for me.

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#557 2 years ago

Quick questions for you guys running LED's. Does Centaur need BOTH the regular lamp driver board AND the aux. one? Will just having the main one remove the flicker or do I need both?

#558 2 years ago
Quoted from dtown:

I've wanted a Centaur for a long time. I even have "bad move, human" as my text tone on my phone. Finally picked one up today at the York show. She needs a bit of work but the playfield was mylar'd so there's not too much wear and that's biggie for me.

Enjoy! To me Centaur is the quintessential 80's pin. It's the last pin I'll ever sell in my collection.

#559 2 years ago
Quoted from dtown:

I've wanted a Centaur for a long time.

Destroy Centaur

Quoted from dtown:

I even have "bad move, human" as my text tone on my phone.

No class human

Quoted from dtown:

Finally picked one up today at the York show.

Slow aren't you?

Quoted from dtown:

She needs a bit of work

Only single value

Quoted from dtown:

but the playfield was mylar'd so there's not too much wear and that's biggie for me.

Maximum orbian strength achieved!

Congrats on joining the club!

#560 2 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

Nice Playfield. Is it original or a reproduction?

It's an original playfield rescreened by cpr using the original films. I restored all the inserts to remove cracks and they are now crystal clear for a much better lightning effect.
I asked no clearcoat, that way i completed the artwork around switches to remove wood effect and made corrections where
the art was not perfect center with the playfield inserts. I clearcoated it to complete the restoration.

#561 2 years ago
Quoted from HPR:

It's an original playfield rescreened by cpr using the original films. I restored all the inserts to remove cracks and they are now crystal clear for a much better lightning effect.
I asked no clearcoat, that way i completed the artwork around switches to remove wood effect and made corrections where
the art was not perfect center with the playfield inserts. I clearcoated it to complete the restoration.

That's extremely impressive! I just sent out my playfield (pictured) to HSA Pinball for a level 1 restoration and clearcoat. Before sending, I cleaned it all down with IPA and melamine to remove as much of the yellowed lacquer and ball swirls as possible. I'm kind of nervous (actually very nervous) about repopulating all the guts on the underside correctly. But I figured putting the parts on an original PF is probably easier than a new REPRO PF as all the holes should all be in the right places. I will send an update when HSA returns my restored PF to me, but that could be months from now. They stated a fee of $500 for their service which seems like a good value based on the high quality work they do.

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#562 2 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Here's a couple of shots, hope this helps. You can also make your own wireforms using old springs.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/make-your-own-microswitch-actuator-wire

That picture explains it perfectly! Now I understand that the wireform actually wraps 90 degrees around the switch body. Thank you VERY MUCH for taking the time and effort of the picture. I probably broke off the wireform while lifting and lowering the playfield one of a hundred times.

#563 2 years ago

I was working on improving the sound quality and even with a nice Polk subwoofer, there' just not enough high range sound. Biggest problem is obviously the lack of a speaker above the playfield. For starters, I put in a fresh base speaker. I ended up ordering a 6" Pyle speaker for the base cabinet, model PDMR6. Was $17 from Amazon. It is a drop in replacement for the original speaker and is at 8 ohms.

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#564 2 years ago

Next, I ordered a 4" Pyle PLX42 speaker from Amazon. Was $19.00. I mounted it from the rear (neck) of the cabinet so it faces the air vent grill. I used 4" #6 machine screws, though 3.5" would have been better. I just split the audio output wires from the sound board between these two speakers, upper 4" and lower 6". The game sounds significantly better now. Not really a need for an audio balance. The balance is pretty much ideal as-is. I'd recommend this easy modification. The speech is much more understandable.

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#565 2 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

Next, I ordered a 4" Pyle PLX42 speaker from Amazon. Was $19.00. I mounted it from the rear (neck) of the cabinet so it faces the air vent grill. I used 4" #6 machine screws, though 3.5" would have been better. I just split the audio output wires from the sound board between these two speakers, upper 4" and lower 6". The game sounds significantly better now. Not really a need for an audio balance. The balance is pretty much ideal as-is. I'd recommend this easy modification. The speech is much more understandable.

Nice. I'll have to give that a try.

#566 2 years ago

This is what I have in mine with a 105 Watt amplifer. I also have bullet tweeter. I went with the 8 inch and have a friend who did the 10 inch. Its amazing but you can blow apart the game. They make this in a 8,10, 12 inch with the cross over and coaxial tweeter that screws into the back of the woofer. ITS INCREDIBLE. At the Texas Pinball festival you can here it in the lobby.!!

http://www.parts-express.com/eminence-beta-10cx-10-coaxial-driver--290-502

#567 2 years ago

I'll never understand why they only put that one 6" speaker in the base cabinet with such a cool sound board being used. It makes no sense at all.

#568 2 years ago
Quoted from Classic_Stern:

At the Texas Pinball festival you can here it in the lobby.!!

Yeah that was awesome. While everyone was loading in their games you kept hitting the flipper button to play the attract demo.

#569 2 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

I'll never understand why they only put that one 6" speaker in the base cabinet with such a cool sound board being used. It makes no sense at all.

Yea, 8 is as small as you want to go. The eminience can handle 200-300 watts and puts out somewhere north of probably 112 to 117 db near the machine. ITS CRAZY!!! But you will damage the game for a long period.

#570 2 years ago

I've noticed some Centaurs have a smaller board attached to the Say It Again board. Was that something somebody made aftermarket? HEP's has one on it in the photos.

#571 2 years ago

There is a couple of aftermarket boards. I have a reverb board and Say it again and they have amazing noise levels. that is what I use in mine. I forgot about that. Kept the originals but the repro boards have a very low noise floor. You have to have that for 110 plus db

#572 2 years ago
Quoted from dtown:

I've noticed some Centaurs have a smaller board attached to the Say It Again board. Was that something somebody made aftermarket? HEP's has one on it in the photos.

its a replacement for a faulty SAD4096 echo chip most likely..

here is an example http://www.flippp.fr/pisad4096.php

#573 2 years ago

So is this a COMPLETE replacement for the say it again board?

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3809

#574 2 years ago

yes as it says "This board is a direct replacement/reproduction for the Bally Say-It-Again board used in Centaur"

whereas the other is a replacement for the faulty chip

#575 2 years ago

Regarding LED's, do Bally's have an issue with ghosting? Not flicker which would be handled by the Alltek board, but ghosting? Meaning, can I buy regular super bright's for the CPU controlled lamps or do I need the non-ghosting ones?

#576 2 years ago

Shouldn't need non-ghosting ones.

3 weeks later
#577 2 years ago

I've moved onto the playfield on my Centaur and somebody really screwed up the flipper wiring. They also didn't gap the EOS switch right on one of the them so it NEVER opened. Probably why it fried the coil and blew the 5 volt fuse. Anyway, could someone PLEASE post some pics of the flipper wiring to the coils and EOS switches so I can try to match up the colors. Thanks.

#578 2 years ago

Bumb for some pics.

#579 2 years ago

Here's a pic from my files, I believe this is MikeD's Centaur resto. Hope it's helpful.

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#580 2 years ago

Yes. Thank you

#581 2 years ago

Is 4K a descent price for a Centaur. Haven't personally see it, so would consider it in "Very Good" shape, not excellent or even close to collector. Market seems soft and I am always in for a deal. Looking to see if $3500 is even a descent asking price?

#582 2 years ago
Quoted from alexanr1:

Is 4K a descent price for a Centaur. Haven't personally see it, so would consider it in "Very Good" shape, not excellent or even close to collector. Market seems soft and I am always in for a deal. Looking to see if $3500 is even a descent asking price?

$3.5k seems reasonable for one in very good shape. The market may be soft in general, but never for this pin.

I have one that's in 'very good shape' and I just had a mint NOS playfield put in it. I'd expect it to go around $4k +/- a few hundred.

#583 2 years ago

I'm looking for a nice Centaur, if anyone has one they are ready to move, please hit me up.

3 weeks later
#584 2 years ago

I decided to send my Centaur playfield to HSA for a professional level one restoration. Their price seems reasonable. It took about 3 months for them to get to it, but now it's done. Here's before and after pictures. On the before pictures, I had scrubbed down the playfield with lots of melamine foam and IPA to get as much of the old yellow lacqure off as possible. Also I scubbed off about 95% of the dirty ball swirls. I lost a little artwork in the process, but HSA touched it up nicely.

FIRST, THESE ARE BEFORE PICTURES...

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#585 2 years ago

AND THESE ARE AFTER PICTURES...

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#586 2 years ago

I am most impressed by how bright and "young" this original playfield looks after it is all cleaned up and clear coated. While a new repro playfield would be nice, the advantage of having this original board is that all the holes are drilled and positioned perfectly. HSA provided very reasonable pricing, understandable and fair turn-around service, and their communication was very good. I would use them again any time.

#587 2 years ago

Also here is a web link to HSA showing many more before and after pictures in better resolution.

http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/hsa112816centaurs1.html

#588 2 years ago

Damn that looks good. I'm going to do this someday (now that I've seen yours) Beautiful!

2 weeks later
#589 2 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

Also here is a web link to HSA showing many more before and after pictures in better resolution.
http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/hsa112816centaurs1.html

After hardening a little more, HSA shipped the playfield and it arrived tonight. Here are a few more pics with close-ups. The clear coat is amazing. I'm thrilled. The repair and silk screening of the center inserts with the numbers 40 and 60 on them is especially impressive. To think, this board started out yellowed and full of filthy ball swirls.

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#590 2 years ago

Does anyone need a good set of Centaur insert decals for a really great price? I have this set that I purchased months ago but did not use.

I paid $68 delivered. I will sell them for $25 delivered (USA domestic post office).

- these are from Pinballcenter.de in Germany. Unlike pretty much all the sets you get from the USA, THESE have 56 decals INCLUDING the blue lane switching spiked "balls" and the all-important "WHEN LIT" (blue insert between the flippers) that the USA sets are usually missing.

- they are very thin, very dense ink, very durable. I'd say quality is quite good overall.

- this set is missing one of the two "RELEASE" decals.

- the keyline circles for #50 and #60 are not ideal. They are die cut properly but some of the ink is missing at the left edge. All the Centaur decals from this supplier have this and it normally should not show up once installed.

See pics and if you want to buy them, please PM me.

Thanks.

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#591 2 years ago

Is it just me or does that 4x decal at the bottom of the last pic look like a woman with her arm up over her head? (albeit gorilla arm)

#592 2 years ago

What size is the captive ball? Is it the normal 1 1/16"? If so, after installing a new plastic set, a regular size ball won't stay.

#593 2 years ago
Quoted from dtown:

What size is the captive ball? Is it the normal 1 1/16"? If so, after installing a new plastic set, a regular size ball won't stay.

I was told previously in this forum that it is a steel bingo ball and they are very affordable from Pinball Resource. Marco has them but wants about 4 times the price.

#594 2 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

I was told previously in this forum that it is a steel bingo ball and they are very affordable from Pinball Resource. Marco has them but wants about 4 times the price.

Thank you. I do have a couple of them left over from an old wood rail I repaired. I took one and coated it with some Mother's and a sock and polished till it was smooth. Just wasn't sure if this was the correct size.

#595 2 years ago
Quoted from dtown:

Regarding LED's, do Bally's have an issue with ghosting? Not flicker which would be handled by the Alltek board, but ghosting? Meaning, can I buy regular super bright's for the CPU controlled lamps or do I need the non-ghosting ones?

Yes there are definite issues with ghosting in some inserts, even flicker. This is easily addressed with $45 daughter boards if you don't want to do the full replacement boards from Alltek... and you can use any old LEDs. IIRC non-ghosting bulbs didn't help enough in a few inserts I had the biggest issues.

You can get them at one of these sources:
http://www.xpinpinball.com/shop/product/xp-blyff
http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=44&controller=product&id_lang=1

#596 2 years ago

Regarding that one bulb socket under the playfield that acts as a fuse or whatever; does that socket need to remain as a light bulb or can it be converted to an LED along with the rest of the game lighting?

#597 2 years ago

Please correct me if I'm wroung...
This light will act as a switch for the small driver board.
It draws some current on which the MOC 3011 (optocoupler) switches the big triac in the bottom of the transformer plate.
If you change it to a led it will NOT draw enough current and not switch on the GI.
So keep the normal light bulb if you want your GI blinking.

The other bulb does the same for the solenoid expander in a slightly other way.

GI_flasher (resized).jpg

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#598 2 years ago

I kept mine a typical 555. Yes, I think it needs to create a load for the mini aux driver mounted under the playfield. This is the board that flashes the GI.

#599 2 years ago

I would say give it a try with a LED. I put one in mine and it works fine, but not all LEDs are created equal.

#600 2 years ago

Mine. Finished. The player four display has been replaced. No HEP, but it's decent.

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